Just a question about the CVT belt blower and the exhaust blower, wouldn't/doesn't that rob some of the horsepower from our engines.

Just like a mechanical fan on an engine in our vehicles rob some of the horsepower. That is one reason they have electric fans to cool down the radiator.

Would a bilge fan for a boat supply enough air to keep things cool?

Build a snorkel. Put filter and fan inline. Hook fan to a keyed fused hot so won't leave on accidentally. Remove fan blades from engine. Probably have to do a snorkel for each. Gain a few HP or it has been tried but didn't work.

I don't have any need to attempt. Don't need to go that fast but I seem some others on here that may have a use for it.

I see that most of the bilge fans are rated at 130 CFM would that keep the areas cool enough? AND wouldn't that help the MPG a little?

Just a thought.

Barry,

If your setup is like the pics that Davydo posted. All you "should" have to do is clean the mating surfaces, put a light coating or bead on the flat mating surfaces. Don't crank the bolts down. Don't want to squeeze out all the RTV. Let cure and fill with lube.

Once I replaced a water pump on a 350 engine. Let cure for 30-45 minutes. Filled radiator and drove 7 hours back to Ft. Campbell. That was with the blue silicone. Good times.

You should be fine.

I'm not 100% sure, but I'm guessing protect the oil seal from sticks.

Too cold for the bass to hit hard, but the cats will. LOL

NMK, if needed you can remove any and all pics if they are taking up too much room on server.

Up all night due to flooding. Here is a pic of water. To be honest Dodge is in low part of yard. But still. Bad ice storm here 2 weeks ago. Ice and snow melted. Ground already soaked. Now flood. Mother Nature is pissed.

1. Axle part number
2. Axle installed with dust cover. (older pic)
3. Axle installed without dust cover. The way it is now.

As your can see the bearing part of axle is kinda shallow to fit correctly.
As well as the rest of the axle.
But without the protective cover on the axle it goes in deeper in the diff and doesn't have the slop.

When returning from the test drive the axle was still in the diff.
You can tell the difference in the two pics. The with and without protective cover.
The one with cover looks to be installed on an angle.

From the part number this axle is for a 2011-2015 ZFORCE 600 and NOT a UForce.

I guess the previous  owner didn't want to spend the extra $$$ to get the correct axle.

I still undecided if I'm going to order the correct axle or just wait and see what happens with this one.

I took the test drive up same mine road and hill that I did the video of. I did NOT baby it at all.
Up the hill in 2 low and could tell both rear tires were diggin up hill.

We, my boss (wife), don't ride hard at all. Just need something more comfortable than our Honda foreman with the rear cargo seat.

1. Measuring rest of diff to outside edge.
2. The measurement.
3. Measuring rest of axle to the protective cover
4. The measurement
5. Measuring rest of axle without protective cover
6. The measurement

1. Measuring diff spline depth to other axle
2. The measurement
3. Measuring spline depth of axle
4. The measurement
5. Measuring the bearing of diff
6. The measurement
7. Measuring the bearing area of axle
8. The measurement.

Tested and so far so good. Also found out that it's also positive traction.

Below are pics of

1. Inside rear diff
2. Replacement axle that previous owner put in with protective oil seal cover.
3. Measuring the axle that go in diff from dust cover to end.
4. The measurement
5. Measuring the diff from outside to opposite axle.
6. The measurement.

Received the email. Thank you NMK.

Came to the conclusion  that the spline side of axle that goes in the diff isn't long enough.

I took dust cover off axle that protects the oil seal on the diff.
Inserted the axle and the compression clip doesn't seem to decompress and lock into place.
AND WITH the dust cover on axle, that's another 1/4 inch keeping the axle from going in far enough.

I've got to take this little table out and get some pics.

I may leave the protective cover off and see how that works.

Was checking to see if different models had the same axle. Some did, mostly older models.  But the one thing I found interesting is the same axle on the same website had 3 different prices.

On a 2013 cf600-5 UFORCE 600 the right rear axle was replaced when I bought it.
I noticed the axle wasn't fully seated in the differential and leaking oil after putting about 50 miles on it.

Today I tore apart to discover the keeper ring on the diff side of axle was compressed completely in the grove. Then axle wasn't even engaging the splines in the diff when I started. I popped the ring off and cleaned the grove. Cleaned splines and reassembled.  Everything seemed to be back as it should. Filled diff with oil and tested it out.

The oil seal is leaking so that has to be replaced. The axle has some slop where it fits in the diff. I can move forward, back, up, or down about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. I'm taking down again tomorrow to see if axle is still engaged or has popped out. Will try to get part number off the replacement axle and oil seal. If I can get part number off seal, hopefully auto parts store can find a match.

The left axle is still OEM and has no play, so I'm thinking the right shouldn't either.
Does anyone have a cross reference for 0180-334003 the oil seal? 65x90x9NS.
What does the NS stand for?
Does anyone know the mic specs on the axle splines.
Would/Could an aftermarket axle be within specs and still have slop/movement in the diff?

Does anyone know the torque spec on the axle nut? I really don't like using the formula P=plenty.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Thanks

Essayons

Was able to rock back and forth in neutral so not sure about the brakes. But don't know why with only 265 miles. The previous owner may have sold bridges as well. LOL I'm the 3rd owner as far as I can tell from title. Still not a bad little machine.
If nothing else, I'll clean it up get stuff right as I can and pass it along to someone else. Maybe recoup some of my money.

I'm just going to have to wait until it warms up some to check compression, change plug, change oil, and things of that nature. Maybe it will straighten up after plug and oil.  It was 33 today and suppose to be 20 tonight.

I'll be up in Doug's neck of the woods for a month and not able to work on anything except the job.

Thanks for the help.

Just purchased a new to me 2013 CF600-5. Found out from this forum it was limited production and specs were close to a Rancher.

I look forward to adding to this forum as I can. Will probably be a headache to a few trying to figure this thing out. And receiving more help than I give.

Have already received a lot of help. The last couple of days.

I work on network and POS systems in a retail environment. Travel all over the US.
Severed 3 years active duty at FT. Campbell as a Combat Engineer. 5 years in the Reserves. Air Assault!

Just a couple video.

15 seconds. After looking at hill. Guess it more like a 30° hill.
https://youtu.be/AJPzE7AwSEk

6 minutes. And should have been in low going up the road. But the machine is acting better the more I'm on it. May have been the adding oil. Or just getting use to it. I don't know.
https://youtu.be/AnIi4mhhJyY

What is the purpose of this?

Glad you made it back OK.

Here is the front driver brake shoes and rotor. Looks gone to me.