Hi Birchy,

OBD II DTC P Codes are generic across the whole of the motor industry, one has to be cautious with the interpretation of these codes.
DTC Codes are a bit like a very basic GPS mapping system i.e. they point you in the direction of a specific Zip code or postal code. They can get you to the street where the house is located but not actually to the doorstep of the house, one has to deploy other tactics to get to the doorstep of the house i.e. common sense and other indicators.
If you search some areas of the internet P1800 error code translates to a malfunction in the transmission range sensor circuit on an Auto G/Box. Not applicable here because we do not have an Auto box fitted, "Common sense application"
In other areas of the internet and in my experience the most common translation of a P1800 error code is a potential fault with the ""Variable Intake Air System Control Solenoid Valve Circuit". Yes, your handheld generic Amazon purchased scanner is also extremely generic and not bespoke to the systems on your ride that require interpretation of the OBD II DTC codes i.e. your injection system. So, you will be sent down a garden path on occasions when trying to interpret these codes, therefore you have to be more cautious as instead of being sent to the street where the house is you will be sent to the town where the house is. As your scanner is struggling to interpret the software and DTC codes inside your injection ECU.
So where does this leave us...................if it where the "Variable Intake Air System Control Solenoid Valve Circuit" one would obviously take a peek at this valve. However, to my knowledge of CFMOTO injection systems these are not fitted. So OK what is controlling "Air" quality on these Quad bikes? The intake Air Temp sensor, and the MAP sensor fitted to the throttle body.
However, like all forms of diagnostic tools "Please" do not forget that these are pointing devices. It may state O2 senor or Air temp senor fault, but it can be any of the harness cables or connections on route to these sensors.
Also do not ignore basics i.e. the days before DTC codes how is the bike actually performing is it, poor at starting, is its idle poor, is its acceleration poor, does it backfire on de-acceleration. What is the condition of the plugs and so on. All of these would point at an air quality issue.
It is good to investigate these codes, however, do not forget that if it were a serious fault i.e. one that could potentially damage the engine the injection ECU will lock down to "Limp Home Mode" it limits RPM's to something like 1,000 RPM or in extreme situations will not start or run. This was always the main reason for DTC codes i.e. to protect the engine and prevent serious damage.

GMSAHFR

Hi Reager,

Pleased to learn you are making progress...............

Pleased to learn the injectors are OK

The system pressure.............. difficult for me to comment here as, A) I do not know what manufacturer injection system is fitted B) I do not know what is the correct system pressure should be for your bespoke injection system.

Although the pressure appears to be a tad on the high side for all I know it may be correct?

If the pressure is too high then there is the potential of a pressure regulation issue.

If the pressure is correct, one must go back to the P coded and the symptom i.e. bogging down, which deduces to "Fuel Starvation"  so you are back to basics i.e. blockages in pump pick-up or external filter, blockages or kinks in fuel feed pipe. Contaminated fuel, something floating about in the tank and blocking the pump pick-up...........or a pump pick-up that is not fitted correctly and or moving.

Best of Luck GMSAHFR 

Hi Reager,

Pleased to be of assistance hope the advice is helpful to you in solving your challenge.

Fuel pressure can vary vastly, all dependant on which manufacturer injection system you have can range between 2.2 bar up to 3.5 bar. Beyond 3.5 and up to 5.5 and you are into race fuel systems with steel pipes and steel connectors.

The Delphi MTO5-2 version injection system fitted to my X8 is regulated to run at 2.2bar at all engine speeds.

You do need to determine who's injection system is fitted to your ride and get the exact specifics and specifications for that system on your ride. Utilising generic settings or a generic pressure will send you down the garden path to no where.

GMSAHFR

Hi Reager,

Attached is the Delphi MT05-2 system fitted to my CFMOTO X8 Euro4, as you can see there is no specific "Shut-off" valve (P 0005) relates specifically to a fuel shut off valve.

Ok, where does this leave us..................your fuel is being cut off the, the injection ECU is diagnosing this and displaying the relevant DTC P code for this.
Consider things like:-

•   Fuel pump and its feed/power circuit, relays, fuses and loom connections.
•   Fuel filter, pickup inside tank and external filter. Blockages in the fuel system pipe work.
•   Condition of your fuel, source of your fuel, your fuel type i.e ethanol free or ethanol additive.
•   Injectors are they both functioning, providing the exact spray pattern from both and both delivering the exact same amount of fuel. Is one stuck or sticking.
P.S. do not under any circumstances utilise any fuel additives or any form of additive that allegedly cleans or improves your injection system!

GMSAHFR

Hi Reager,
Sorry to learn you getting some issues with your ride.
P-0005 code indicates a fuel system problem, which kind of like figures with your engine bogging down. Or more importantly fuel starvation.
P-0005 OBDII or DTC codes are related to fuel system issues, in particular the fuel shut off valve. P0005 – Fuel Shutoff Valve "A" Control Circuit/Open.
However, be cautious as one can be sent on a wild goose chase searching for specific components listed under P codes that may or may not exist on your ride.
It's a generic code DTC code which indicates a fuel system issue and therefore is informing you that there is a fuel control/flow/cut-off issue. It may be controlled by specific components or be a piece of software inside your fuel injection ECU.
What next:- Determine the fuel injection system fitted to your ride, i.e. Bosch, Delphi, Siemens etc. Go to their website, do not go to one of those manual website download sites! ( you will get outdate nonspecific crap)
Ensure you get the exact injection system type, version, year of production etc and download "ONLY" from the injection system manufacturers website. Their manual will inform you of what exactly is in your systems and what if any components are controlling fuel flow/cut off. But more importantly inform you how to test/check/diagnose each fuel injection system component.

GMSAHFR

Hi Bob,

Congratulations on the research in to lubrication, it is worth it in the long run as have a better understanding of lubricating oils, their specifications and requirements.

I do not think you will go wrong with Mobil lubricants, they have been in the industry for decades including the race industries, since the 1860's, a well respected USA brand which is very popular with French race fraternity.

A superb choice over the cheap and nasty choices of garbage oils available on Ebay and Amazon, expensive stuff but worth every dollar to prolong the life expectancy of your ride.

GMSAHFR

Hi SacForce,

The electrics on the quad are a very basic, i.e. standard wiring non multiplex, therefore when a rely stops working there will be zero indication anywhere of the fact that the relay is faulty and has stopped working.

However, you have already discovered the only form of fault indication, for a basic electrical circuit with a relay, i.e. the components in that circuit are not functioning, in your case the FWD circuit.

The majority of todays cars have multiplex circuits, upwards of an average of 20 computers on board, the more expensive the car = more computers can be upwards of 60 computers i.e. ECU's controlling all the various circuits. These ECU's communicate with each other and with all the various networks on the car all communicating at different data speeds and protocol's. To cut a very long story short a "Multiplexed" system can just about inform you of all faults on all systems.

I doubt very much if Quad manufactures will ever install a multiplexed system, too expensive and too prone to water damage.

GMSAHFR

   
   

Hi Bob,
As usual an immense choice of engine oils out there for ones ride, yes the rating and specifications can initially sound/look overwhelming but when you get into to it as always it becomes easier.
Non synthetic, semi or full synthetic are amongst those choices, what's best is a difficult to answer as it depends on how you use your ride and most definitely the ambient temps you are operating in. The viscosity consideration is paramount. Thinner oils for cold climates and thicker oils for warmer climates.
For my fleet of X8's I use Fuchs Silkolene Quad ATV 10W-40 Semi Synthetic 4T engine oil. Why. it is a bespoke oil for quad bikes especially if one has a wet clutch working in combination with the CVT belt. Its viscosity range is wider accommodation for hot and cold climates although not the extremes of heat and cold. Here is the link FYI:- htpps:/www.silkolene.com/en/products/quad-utv-10w-40/
GMSAHFR

CVT Primary/Secondary pulley modifications
As I have stated on previous posts, I am a great supporter of modifications to one's ride to improve our ride to match the requirements we demand from the machine. Mainly following this doctrine to make our rides safer and more robust.
This area i.e. CVT Primary/Secondary pulley modifications can be both rewarding and beneficial if one follows the rules of engagement.
Failure to follow the rules of engagement will result in some expensive failures, in the main belt burn outs and costly differing endless combinations of primary and secondary pulley modifications.
So here are a few points that may help in the hope that it assists those who want venture down this path, see attached excel spread sheet which hopefully aids better interpretation of the rules of engagement: -
1.   Does your ride genuinely require this modification, the manufacturer has already done the research for you and has already set the primary/secondary pulleys to their optimum to achieve the best under the majority of driving conditions.
2.   If you are going to seriously race your ride a modification of this type would have to be considered to increase Engine RPM and change the shift points.
3.   If you want to apply this modification just for a mild change then do as much research as you can to ascertain the bespoke modifications to your ride's primary/secondary pulleys. This is important as the research will save you time and money in that someone else has already done the groundwork for you. Venture into this from scratch and it will cost you time and money however, I respect the fact that some may prefer this method as it provides them with a whole new learning experience that they seek.
4.   The key point to remember is that CFMOTO secondary pulley has a range of letters and numbers that the spring tail is inserted into. The different positions for the spring tail will increase or decrease secondary pulley spring tension. This is fine if one is utilising CFMOTO stock factory springs. However, if one utilises after market springs the changes to spring tensions by inserting the spring tail into different number/letter holes may not provide the same changes to spring tension. Therefore, the aftermarket non factory secondary springs will work but will require more trial and error or more cost and time. At the end of the day, it is dependant on your viewpoint, some may thrive on this experimentation with cost and time being irrelevant. Others may want to consider caution and the impact of cost and time.     

GMSAHFR

Hi Bob,

It is likely that there is a generic harness i.e. one that fits all for all markets and all models.

However, one has to get into the Chinese mind set of manufacture i.e. "Every pound or dollar saved is a pound or dollar made".

A very different mind set to USA and European vehicle manufacturing processes in the motor industry, yes they too have to find savings but unlike the Chinese, the USA and European mind set to manufacture in Motor sector is a left over from WWII. In that the Jeep and the Sherman tanks were made by many different manufactures but their engines, transmissions etc were all interchangeable, this rule for the enthusiasts refurbishing this kit still applies to this day.

Just published a book on this, spent 15 years in the research as my father in-law was responsible along with 50 other guys for waterproofing experimentation, developing and training all the allies for the D-Day landings on the Normandy beaches.

The Book is on Ebay if it interests you "World War II Waterproofing and Wading in Weymouth"

GMSAHFR


   

Hi Bob,

Pleased to learn you are now fitting extras to your new quad.

There should be horn on the quad, then again if it is not a road legal quad then they may not have fitted a horn.
Consequently, if it is not a road legal quad there may not be a switch/harness/relay/fuse for the horn. Check the wiring diagram, if there is a switch it will be on the left handlebar next to the engine kill switch. Also check for the /harness/relay/fuse on the wiring diagram. If there is a horn, it will be behind the grill on the right as look at the front of the quad.
Let's assume you have none of the above, fitting a horn/relay/fuse/harness is simple, the switch will be the most challenging. If it was a road legal quad the switch would be incorporated into the electrics on the left handlebar grip. Outside of it being a road legal quad when you purchase your horn ensure it comes complete with switch a relay.
Should you fit a relay........most definitely, a relay carry's the current, not as though a horn uses a lot of current, it prevents the horn switch contacts from burning out, i.e. the relay takes the current load off the switch.
Should you fit an Aux fuse box.................most definitely, piggybacking off any existing circuit on the quad overloads that circuit. It will put all the components and harness in that circuit at risk of an electrical fire due to overloading. As you enjoy your quad you will want to fit more accessories, like for example a light bar, that extra USB port or USB ports that you are missing, so an AUX fuse box is a must, safe, secure and does not overload any existing Electrical circuits. But above all reduces the risk of and electrical fire due to overloading circuits.
So for now I will let you digest this, when you are ready and decide to fit the AUX fuse box I will provide you with more advice and images should you venture down this path? 
In the meantime see the attached PDF it takes you to the horn I have fitted to all my X8's, its an absolute humdinger and frightens the *hit out of mostly everything, it includes a link to Amazon where the horn was purchased from.
 
GMSAHFR

Hi all,
An interesting topic of discussion "Air Filters".
Rest assured that it matters not what you are driving, an ATV, UTV, off road Dirt Bike or off road trucks cars, the stock air filter is a very basic device, designed, manufactured and fitted to do just the basics i.e. filter "SOME" dirt laden air. The manufactures will source the cheapest and nastiest filter out there and seek to reduce manufacturing costs wherever and however they can.
The customer will have little recall on claims in warranty or out of warranty for engine failure because they will on most of the occasions state that the vehicle has been used outside of its intended manufacturing specifications. Meaning the customer did not heed warnings provided in the manual regarding the use of the vehicle, or if you like their get-out clause.
If you are off roading in seriously dusty conditions and or racing any of the above one of the minimum on the list of priorities is to change the air filter.
There are a plethora of non-stock Air filter suppliers out there, K&N (My preferred filters) Unifilter and many more, to many to list here. You would be well advised before you take delivery of your ATV or UTV to research aftermarket high-flow high filtration air filters and fit them before you drive I mile on your new ride. Filters that use some form of spray on oil are best suited to dusty driving conditions.
As for dealers and their level of skill and knowledge regrading CFMOTO products, in short it is abysmal, well that's the state of things here in UK. In the UK if you buy a new car your dealer has factory trained techs, the business contract is franchised meaning all have to conform to some strict and very serious requirements regarding supporting the customer in After Sales.
All ATV and UTV dealers, very different here in UK, the majority of "Dealers" which in my opinion do not deserve the title of dealer, are garden machinery suppliers; the techs are not factory trained for CFMOTO products. Their knowledge of ATV's & UTV's is very limited. They may be experts in garden machinery products but their level of skill and knowledge in ATV's & UTV's is next to zero. When I took delivery of my X8 it allegedly had received a PDI, good job I checked every nut and bolt before I rode it, the following defects were found: -
1.   Brake foot pedal not set to correct height.
2.   Throttle cable loose at throttle body
3.   Battery electrolyte not topped up
4.   Front axle toe-in incorrectly set, never checked.
5.   Rear cargo rack bent and not set correctly
6.   Speed sensor gap incorrectly set.
There is more but I risk get a tad turgid, there is very little expertise at CFMOTO dealers here in UK. Ask them questions about the spec of your ATV or UTV and they will come out with all kinds of nonsense. There are some bespoke ATV, UTV specialist here in UK that modify them for racing of all forms, but these guys are not dealers in the sense that they can sell you a new ATV or UTV. They like the specialists in your countries have trustworthy knowledge and skill but like everything else in life in comes at a cost.

GMSAHFR

Hi Deldago,

I have converted all my CFMOTO thumb throttle Assemblies on X8's to Moose Utility combined Twist/Thumb Throttle assemblies.

Much more reliable, robust, easier to use and provides twist or thumb throttle.

I had to manufacture a bracket to attach the 4WD switch assembly to the Moose Utility combined Twist/Thumb Throttle, a bit of a challenge but it kept me occupied for a while. 

Hi SalemGen3,

If you or a mate have the skill, knowledge, the correct equipment I say give it a whirl and repair the frame, nothing ventured nothing gained hey!

However, if the frame is not square after the repair it will soon become evident, tyres scrubbing down quickly on one side, potential crabbing down the track or pulling to one side. All dependant on the severity of frame misalignment.

On a positive note if your mate manages to repair the frame and align it perfectly then Hey Ho and away we go on the trail again. 

Good luck.

GMSAHFR


 

Hi Rob,
Sorry to learn you are getting issues with instrument cluster.
Start with the obvious i.e. the wire harness connection to the instrument cluster, check its secure, check there is no corrosion on it, if corroded use a spray can contact cleaner. I will not recommend a contact cleaner as there 100's in the marketplace.
If the issue persists, I am sorry to inform you that it is more than likely the PCB i.e. the instrument cluster Printed Circuit board. A new PCB will be required, these can be repaired especially if its just a dry or cracked soldered joint, but you really do need some experience in these repairs with special tools and bespoke soldering irons otherwise one can destroy the PCB.
You can leave the bike in a garage or outside, in cold weather the inside of the instrument cluster filles with moisture, not ideal for electrical items of course. But until CFMOTO invest more into quality electricals with rubber humidifier sealing this is currently unpreventable.
GMFAHFR