NMKawierider/Clark , the thermo switch has a rubber o ring on it , do you recommend I put some teflon tape on threads also or no ? My 2nd thermo switch went Saturday about 30 miles from cabin we were staying at..  I had a jumper wire with me so I was able get back. I want wire a bypass , I'll just need a basic 2 terminal ON/OFF toggle switch and 18 or 22 g wire correct ? Just quick connect to the 2 switch wires and run to the toggle switch?

Yep..all the thermoswitch does is jumper the two together so any switch that does that will do it. I have a write-up in the How To section on how I did mine. On the threads..no..I wouldn't. They aren't a tapered pipe-type thread so it won't really do anything.

So..that's two yours went through? If it does it again replace the fan relay. Some have found that the relay coil on some are pulling too many milliamps (ma) and that causes the thermoswitch to be over loaded and toast itself.   

Yea my z800 is a 2016. I had the 1st one go around 400 miles. This one went at 2270 miles. I have the Pennsylvania Cfmoto Facebook page and my machine is the one that has always had that knock sound and the rocker arm assembly recently came apart but the new rocker arm assembly didnt fix the knock I've always had so I just run it lol.

NMKawierider/Clark , the thermo switch has a rubber o ring on it , do you recommend I put some teflon tape on threads also or no ? My 2nd thermo switch went Saturday about 30 miles from cabin we were staying at..  I had a jumper wire with me so I was able get back. I want wire a bypass , I'll just need a basic 2 terminal ON/OFF toggle switch and 18 or 22 g wire correct ? Just quick connect to the 2 switch wires and run to the toggle switch?

bwzforce800, I am in Lehigh County but most of my riding is done in Potter County.

I see. We ride potter county several times a year.  We stay at potter county family campground.  Will be there end of may.

30Carbine . What part PA are you from ? I'm central,  50 min East state college.  About 1 hour north east of Harrisburg. Buttorffs in Hartleton is my dealer. I have a Pennsylvania Cfmoto Facebook page if your not already a member there.

Anyone confirm the above mentioned model's that supposedly use same bearing ? Or are we limited to oem bearings only?  I just replaced my rear at 50 a piece from my dealer so looking for cheaper ones for future.

what dealer are you using?
I got mine from the dealer at $36

Sorry just seen this. I rarely get on the forum. I started and manage the PA Cfmoto page on Facebook. 
My dealer is Buttorffs in Central PA.  50 min east of state college.  I bought bearing from him , took the hub off and left him press it in , FREE which is easy job with press.

Hi all,

Does anyone know if the idle speed on the UForce 800 can be adjusted, and if so, how to? I have gone through the shop manual and saw no mention of adjustment, just the normal operating range (1300 rpm +\- 100 rpm). Mine idles at around 1150 when warmed up and is really rough at that point and stalls frequently.

Thanks,
Brian

From what i see per the service manual,  they do not state how to set the tps. They show 5 volts to it . From what i see on the tps , it has very little adjustment in comparison to most tps, most of them have oval screw holes , ours just has a oversized reg round hole.  I also took notice that you can not buy just the tps from Cfmoto , you have to buy whole throttle body. In looking into it , it appears that Hisun uses the same tps and that i can get for around 68.00 . Mine isnt bad but occasionally on the Facebook pages i see post about idle issues and i think most of idle issues are in dirty throttle body or dirty iacv. Sure there is a set screw on the butterfly but Cfmoto doesnt really want us touching that being idle is controlled by ecm.

Anyone confirm the above mentioned model's that supposedly use same bearing ? Or are we limited to oem bearings only?  I just replaced my rear at 50 a piece from my dealer so looking for cheaper ones for future.

One more little..but important item. Any of the TwinAir filter numbers that end with "FR" stand for "Fire Resistant". This means that not only does it have the fire resistant black final layer, but also still has the other two white and orange layers..all with progressively smaller PPIs (Pours Per Inch). Tripple layers...thinner then the two Uni has but three..not just two. This most be why this filter does better then the dual stage Unifilter in many tests and is why Emerson has always said it's a better filter then the Uni.. It is a better filter. I just wish it had some internal support. Regardless, in this light, and the fact that my oversized Uni let some particles by when the oil migrated downward, I will be recommending the TwinAir 156052FR for all CFM 800s even though if allowed to get too caked-up, it might collapse. At least it won't damage the engine. You guys with Unifilter - Use the best.. most tacky oils..(I just switched to FAB-1 and it's good).. and prefilters and you(we) should be OK. I think I'll install my TwinAir in my stack can filter and put a prefilter over it.

Ive had just the Uni for about 1-1/2 yrs and liked the fact it has a spring coil inside it but Im going order a twin air also so that I have 2 filters , ones dirty I can just switch them out instead of having downtime with waiting on the filter to dry after cleaning. Also I used Klotz filter oil at beginning and quickly realized it is garbage and literally runs out of the filter , I got Maxima FAB 1 and its the best oil ive seen , very sticky , actually hard to get it off your hands .

Im glad I seen this post , when I first start mine , I go to back up and I get a sputter and sometimes shuts off so Ill take the sensor out and clean with mass air cleaner. Thanks Clark for the heads up on this.

Yea like the part that list both wheel lug tq specs and axle nut and there backwards. 70-80nm for axle nut , 130-140 for wheel lugs lol. Its the opposite everywhere else in manual.

I just recently midified my seat and prob only got a extra 1" but when you need all you can get that 1" makes more of a difference then youd think. Im 6' even but already had limitations with my hip as far as range motion goes well I was in a bad car accident October 15-16 that shattered my hip and knee so now im only at 70 degrees with left hip (120 plus is normal ) and my knee is around 120 with (130 being normal)  so modifying the seat brackets helped for sure. My back part seat it tight against roll bar.

Could you fill us in on how to do this please ?

NMKawierider , so it is ok to go into 4x4 while moving at low speed OFF THE THROTTLE obviously and not turning?  I always come to complete stop before engaging 4x4 but in vehicles we engage / disengage while moving so dont see why we cant in the utv also

2016 800 no pwr str. Shift rod needed adjust when new , kept jumping out of low. Coolant sensor went around 150 miles. Overflow coolant reservoir had hairline crack and leaked since new. Currently has 300 miles and happy with it so far . Really drives /handles well .

Ok thanks for the information.

Well 1st time I filled it all the way up , and took it down to where 2 bars were left on gauge and filled back up but I didn't top it off to where you could see it like the 1st time,  3rd time I put gas in it there was still 3 bars on gauge so I haven't run it to almost empty .
Ill go head and get oil and change it soon . It just confusing with the manual , says 10hrs no more then half throttle , next 10hrs no more then 3/4 throttle , hard to judge without a hr meter. I highly doubt most even baby it through break in period .