If I pull the 40 amp fuse, the fuse block behind it is looks slightly burned...or as if it got very hot.

CFM has had a lot of problems with their main fuse holders. They have had bad internal crimp-connections. Most cut it out and wire-in a new and more robust fuse and holder like the Max or Maxie.

I did noticed that the voltage gets down to 13.5 or so volts while driving.


I'll check out wiring the charging system into it's own Maxi fuse.

If I pull the 40 amp fuse, the fuse block behind it is looks slightly burned...or as if it got very hot.

2023 800 trail

Another guy had the same issue as me, but way worse with his 800 trail. 40amp charging fuse keeps blowing and can't figure out why. He took his to a dealer and they said everything was fine.

His only had about 180 miles when it started. Mine was probably 2k.

Sounds like you checked everything. Must be OK.Whatever is bad will eventually break or become noticeable ...then you will know what it was...

I've just noticed that it does the same clunk noise (such and when I hit bumps with my front passenger tire) when I tap the brake quickly on level ground. Even at very low speeds under 5mph.

Maybe I should inspect the brake system for loose components. The master cylinder is tight.

That and check those a-arm bushings again with no load on them. What you are describing is the front and rear movement. It also could be a ball joint.

That is what I assumed. But I have drove myself crazy repeatedly jacking it up and prying/pulling/pushing in all sorts of angles to try to find the bad part.

I even unbolted the ball joints and they seem to be tight and in good shape.

How do I properly test the ball joints?

Sounds like you checked everything. Must be OK.Whatever is bad will eventually break or become noticeable ...then you will know what it was...

I've just noticed that it does the same clunk noise (such and when I hit bumps with my front passenger tire) when I tap the brake quickly on level ground. Even at very low speeds under 5mph.

Maybe I should inspect the brake system for loose components. The master cylinder is tight.

Might also check that passenger-side front axle and CV joints....along with the upper a-arm bushings.
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What should I look for? I had the wheel end of the axle out to change the wheel bearing because I thought that was the problem (the bearing had a little play).

Are the CV joint the joints on the axle?

All the bushings seem good. I've pried and shook and wiggled everything I can and it all appears tight. But then makes noise when driving.

I thought about checking the ball joints too.

That's excessive movement. need to check the u-joints and the carrier bearing and the two bearings. Mine has had excessive play in the splines sense new and in certain conditions I get noise, wobble and some clunking on decel in 4wd. And in 2wd it makes other noises.

It only moves in a circular motion. Not up and down or side to side. I am unable to wobble it.

For giggles see how much play the rear pinion has. The bevel shaft connects the two so if you are in 2wd, the front is not engaged and all that play is coming from the rear..and any play in the splines.

What part is that? This is my first SxS and I am not familiar with a lot of the part locations.

I'm also curious why it only does it when the front passenger wheel hits a bump, but not when any other wheel hits a bump.

That's excessive movement. need to check the u-joints and the carrier bearing and the two bearings. Mine has had excessive play in the splines sense new and in certain conditions I get noise, wobble and some clunking on decel in 4wd. And in 2wd it makes other noises.

It only moves in a circular motion. Not up and down or side to side. I am unable to wobble it.

I've started to get a clunking noise/vibration in the front end of my 2023 800 trail. I can feel it in the floor board and slightly hear it.  Mostly when going down hill or hitting bumps with my passenger side front tire. I've replaced the wheel bearing. the ball joints, brake caliper, and everything else seems to be nice and tight when jacked up and messing with it.


But I can grab my drive line and turn it about 1/2"-3/4". That is the only thing that I have found up front to be remotely loose.

So, battery voltage is about 13V when the machine is off. Then when on, it is 14-14.2 (at idle). Then when I turn the light bar on it goes to around 13.8-14.0V while idling.

That's probably OK. Does it do up any higher when you tach it up a little?

Yeah, it will stay more towards 13.8 or 14.2 while moving. But sitting it will stay lower, Sometimes 13.5.

I'm trying to figure out whether my stator is bad.

Mine sits around 13.6 to 14.2 volts depending on if I'm sitting idle or if I have my light bar on.

I have two of them. I keep one clean and oiled and switch them out.

By the first couple times I've cleaned and re oiled them I've got my money back from buying the OEM paper filters.

So, battery voltage is about 13V when the machine is off. Then when on, it is 14-14.2 (at idle). Then when I turn the light bar on it goes to around 13.8-14.0V while idling.

Yes, LED. I've never seen it above 14.2.

Also, I don't have a manual, but I do have a meter. Any tips on how to test this?

The light bar is 4.6A and the pods were 15.1W each.