Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - bobinmurphy

#16
I'm with you on that - got a barn full of "oh crap, that didn't work the way I thought it would".  I just don't like the idea of having to drill into the factory plastic to mount things.  Did that on my previous UTV that didn't have any setup for turn signals or backup lights. I had to engineer the whole setup for switches, switch mounting, lights, flasher module and wiring harness from parts off Amazon.  Of course one other option might be to use a license plate frame that includes brake and turn signals like the one I used on my previous UTV, and connect it to the spare connector in the rear quarter panel - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RFKPDZQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I'm not sure how Kinnetick is able to get both taillight and backup lights with only the 4-wire connection in the CFMoto taillight assembly.  But combining brake lights with turn signals is standard with a two filament bulb or two light pods like the CFMoto has in the taillight assembly.  Combining taillight, brake and turn signals while keeping backup can be done with a 4-wire system but it requires voltage reduction for taillight which probably isn't possible with LEDs AND in the CFMoto it would eliminate the original taillight LED pod.  I'm interested to see what you find out and come up with.
#17
Quote from: mikeyk101 on August 19, 2024, 01:27:13 AM
I just found this adapter. It will plug right into that vehicle side trailer connector and each pin and wire is labeled. I will bet the wire colors don't correspond to the Zforce harness but that doesn't really matter.
https://www.kinnettickreations.com/product-page/2022-cf-moto-zforce-950-whip-light-pigtails

This would make having rear turn signals real easy to power. It does mention a jumper might be needed to get rear turn signals working in some cases so this will still take a little more research.

That full turn signal kit is nice but a bit pricey. I wouldn't mind having lever on the steering shaft. And extra running lights up front would be cool. But I want to go the budget diy route.

Thinking about this subject a bit more and now I'm wondering.   IF the trailer connector is wired for a standard 4-pin or 5-pin connection then it should be easy to make a short jumper harness that goes from the trailer connector to the taillight assembly.  That should give you white backup lights and use the brake lights as turn signals as the trailer and cars do.  (I don't think that's possible though as the taillight assembly only uses a 4-wire connection and you'd need a 5-wire connection to have both backup lights and red brake/turn signal lights. Well, it could be done with just 4-wires combining tail, brake and turn signals into a single filament bulb using a lower voltage on the taillights like some vehicles do, but probably not with LED lights.)  I suspect the signals on the 8-pin trailer connector can't be used directly for this which would explain why that European trailer connector adapter 9DQV-800200-3000 incorporates those two "black box" modules.  This could also explain why CFMoto just repurposed the backup lights for turn signals in the factory wire harness, well that and the fact the taillight assemble is short one wire to have both backup lights and turn signals using LEDs.

I did a cursory probe with a multimeter on the trailer connector and located ground and taillights, but couldn't get 12v readings for the other lines which I assumed would be needed to power brake, turn signals and possibly backup lights. There was a small voltage reading present though which could be used as a signaling voltage to one of those "black box" modules.

Guessing here that the trailer connector can't really be used without the CFMoto adapter wire harness and the easiest way to go with rear turn signals is to swap the plugs in the rear quarter panel (using backup lights for turn signals), or wire up aftermarket turn signals tied into the alternate connector in the rear quarter panel (keeping the backup lights).

BTW, CFMoto part number 7020-800200-1000 _MAY_ be an equivalent part to adapt the 8-pin chassis connector to the 4-pin trailer connector.  It's $60 on CFMoto Parts.
#18
The alternate/swappable connector in the right rear is taped up to the wire harness and you can't see it until you remove the black tape holding it in place.  Feel the harness and you should find a "bump" in the wire about 6" from the end of the exposed connector. (You must have an older copy of the installation instructions since I think I mentioned this in the current copy.)

I agree, it's unusual to have backup lights on a small trailer, but it's possible and supported with the industry standard 5-pin connector.  So I'm betting that 5th wire in the connector really is backup lights.  The other two lines in a 7-pin are constant 12v power and brake controller line for electric trailer brakes which are of very little use on a small vehicle like the ZForce.
#19
Just a wild guess on my part, but I'll bet that 5th wire is actually backup lights for the trailer.  That would be compliant with a 5-pin trailer connector wiring. It looks like the wires in the 6-pin connector don't follow the normal layout of a 4-pin/5-pin connector which would be Ground, Taillights, Left, Right and Reverse.  There aren't any standards on vehicle wire colors but on the CFMoto I "think" the solid Green is Ground (it's the White wire in the standard 4-pin trailer flat connector).  However that isn't true every place on the unit.  I've seen the wire colors switch on things like the headlights, so you really need to trace things with a multi-meter.

I really doubt that the Brake light line would be separate from the Left/Right Turn signal lines as they utilize the same bulb and would therefore be tied together someplace downstream of the wire harness connector in the rear. If they were separate that separation would have to be carried out in the vehicle harness and brake controller upstream in the vehicle.  That's not the case as those lines aren't separated in the connectors behind the right rear quarter panel.  Doing otherwise would defeat the Left/Right turn signals - utilizing one or the other would light up both.
#20
Looking at the wide variety of connectors available on the two web sites it's hard to know exactly which ones match what CFMoto used.  (Standards are great, everyone should have them!)

If you, or anyone else, figures out which connectors match the ones used by CFMoto please let me know and I'll update the Turn Signal Installation HowTo document with that additional info.
#21
You're just re-purposing the rear lights from being backup lights to being turn signals.  The color doesn't change and as far as I can tell there's no way to disassemble the light assembly to swap out the LEDs.  You can wire in your own turn signal lights to the harness using the connector behind the right rear quarter panel if you're not swapping it with the backup light connector.  Not sure where you'd get a connector to fit so you might need to just splice into the wires.  Another possibility would be to wire into the trailer connector ,although I'm not sure exactly what signals are brought out in it.  Since it's a 4-pin it should have tail lights, left and right brake/turn signals and ground though.  That connector is easy to get to without having to remove the quarter panel.  It's a grey connector behind the right rear light assembly up under the wheel well. The white connector next to it is for the license plate light.

BTW, another user asked this same question and his solution was to swap the connectors and put amber tail light repair tape over the lights in the rear.  I asked if that would pass his State Inspection and he said it would - he told me he happens to be a State Inspector and wanted to be strictly legal with his UTV conversion to be street legal.
#22
ZForce 800 EX, 53 & Trail / Re: Rear diff
August 09, 2024, 10:57:48 AM
Thinking there are a number of people on this forum who don't live in North America.  I wonder if one of them could find the part number for the "Turf Mode" diff and post it.  That would at least be the first step in trying to obtain one.
#23
An owner of a 950 Sport has verified that the instructions I posted work, and he pointed out some things that weren't as clearly spelled out as they could have been.  I've updated and reposted the instructions which hopefully address the issues he noted.
#24
General Discussion / Re: Taking the bed off?
August 03, 2024, 06:49:37 AM
There are two large Allen head bolts holding down an inspection plate in the middle of the bed.  There are smaller ones holding down the four cargo tie points in the bed, and then there are a bunch of much smaller ones around the top edges of the bed itself.    Not sure, but there may be some others under the fender flares as well.  I didn't get to all of them since when I removed the right fender flare I was able to get to the rear light wiring which was my goal at the time.

I was able to find my push pins on Amazon where I also found a cheap tool to remove them without destroying them.  Should have done my shopping before my tear down.  LOL
#25
General Discussion / Re: Taking the bed off?
August 02, 2024, 05:00:05 PM
I tried taking the bed off my 2023 Zforce, even tried following the Service Manual which wasn't much help.  Lot's of metric Allen head bolts, push pins, etc.  Had to remove a lot of the plastic and luckily I got enough of it off that I could get to what I needed, so in the end I never did get the bed removed.  Did manage to screw up a bunch of the push pins though and had to order a bag full of them to get everything put back together.  Also ordered a tool for removing them so they can be reused - should have had that when I started.  Be careful putting the metric bolts back in as well, and keep a record of which came from where as there are a few different sizes used in various places.  Sometimes the plastic doesn't completely align over the bolt holes and requires a bit of a nudge to avoid starting the bolt in a way that cross threads it.
#26
ZForce 800 EX, 53 & Trail / Re: drivers seat
July 28, 2024, 01:58:14 PM
On my 2023 the driver's side seat bottom is removed by pulling up on the front then sliding it forward.  The seat frame and back of the seat are held by four bolts that you can see when the seat bottom is removed.

The entire passenger side seat is one piece and the release is in the back of the seat cushion. Pull it up, then the back of the seat comes up and the entire seat can be shifted rearward a couple of inches releasing the whole seat assembly.

BTW, it's easy to raise the driver's seat a bit by using some 3/4" square tubing between the seat mount rails and the seat frame but it takes getting longer bolts. I drilled holes in the square tubing to run the seat mount bolts thru.  If you do this be careful not to make the bolts too long as that counld bind the seat slide.  I tried raising my seat 1-1/2 by stacking two square tubes but found it was a bit to high; 3/4" worked best and still allowed me to use a gel foam cushion to dampen the rough rides on my old body.  Obviously this trick doesn't work for the passenger side.
#27
Interesting.  I measured the width between the fenders in a couple of places on my Gen 2 and I came up with about 51".  The widest is between the side mirrors at 58" but they swing out of the way.  I've never had any issues going on trails with the 50" gates so far although it was a bit tight.  Anyway, it doesn't seem like I'd be going wider than 50" at the wheel if it go with the 9"/11" tires, but sometimes the best laid plans just don't always work out.

Now that I think about it I seem to recall that the Gen1 was a bit wider than the Gen2 and people complained about not being able to get thru the 50" gates without removing some of the plastic.
#28
Well based on the confusing data from the CFMoto web site, specs and Service Manual I guess they think it's OK to run 8"/9" or 9"/11" front/rear on the stock 6"/7" rims. (Guessing the rim sizes changed between your Gen1 and my Gen2, but I could be wrong.)  Also seen a number of dealer postings for Gen 2 units showing both.  I've sent a request into CFMoto asking them to clear up the confusion, but I'm not all that hopeful of getting any response if history is my guide.

Makes me wonder, if they did reduce the rim width on the Gen 2 if it was done to get the vehicle width inside the 50" they claim. My Gen 2 comes in at about 48" measured at the rear tires, but appears to be right at 50" between the plastic fenders.  My trailer is about 52" between the rails though, so I should be OK with either sizes.
#29
Quote from: smitty42 on July 26, 2024, 07:33:01 AM
I replaced the tires on my 2023 Trail Gen 2 with tires from Rocky Mountain ATV with the Tusk Terrabite   (26x9-14 / 26x11-14). Checked with local tire dealers and they said no problem.  Really like them.

Thanks very much for this!  Those are exactly the same tires and sizes I've been looking at for my Gen 2.  The sizes do match some of the spec sheets CFMoto has published, but are contrary to what came on my UTV and what the Service Manual says which is why I posted my questions.  Was also a bit concerned that the 11" on the rear appear to be 1" wider than what really knowledgeable people like NMKawierider  have said, so it's good to hear from someone who has done this on the same Gen 2 and is happy with the results.
#30
Thanks very much for the assistance and technical advice.  It's a mind-boggling thing!