Yeah our last 2 had the fuses right beside the steering column and this new one 100% they are not there. Took the panels off from underneath the dash nothing there also. Only the 2 connections for the diagnostic tool. There is the tab on the steering column where they fuse box should be clipped too.

Well I am stumped. Looking for the fuses on our zforce. They are not beside the steering column like out last one. There are 2 under the seat like our last one tho but I need to find the others. Long story but this is why. Was sitting outside for the last 2 weeks work average temp of -36 and as low as -45 Celsius. I went to start it yesterday was only -26 usually starts no problem we'll she was dead as a door nail. No problem that's to be expected. So I put the charger on it. Little while later go try it and she fired up. Let it warm up about 15-20 min was going to use it to pull a sled into my garage went to use the winch and it killed the machine dead instantly. Figured the batterie must have been part froze still. So boosted with a lawnmower batterie I had charged and warmed up, the cunt wouldn't stay running no I had to Rev it up to keep it running. So I set the screw on the peddle to keep it just running. Let it run for about another 20 min because in the meantime it cooled, went back out to use it and now the dam thing is overheating, fan not working winch still not working. So left my project shuffled things out of the garage brought the zforce in and left it overnight with the heat cranked and the batterie charger on it. Well this morning she fired up perfect and was idling at 3-4000 rpm so backed the screw off on the pedal, let it run, while running I checked the coolant, all the coolant is gone from the rad, looked outside in the snow where it overheated and there was none out there. Only took maybe 1 littler to top it up but the fan is still not kicking on. The winch I dunno what was going on with it but after screwing around it works now. So pulled all dash panels looking for fuse box can't find it, pulled the seat to check them two under there while it was running and boom it died, would start and die right away wiggling the one fuse it found it is causing the dying thing. But now my main concern is where are the rest of the fuses and relays???

Very interesting. Definitely going to follow.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/124/3639 This is the site I got the brake lining from. Is the high strength semi metallic lining. 3/16 thick and 1" wide. I JB welded it to the stock metal after cleaning wel with a wire wheel and let cure in a vice very tight. Then I used my belt sander to clean it up and shape the pad accordingly. Was very easy and works very well! Quite impressed so far. Quiet and great clamping force. On the rear pads there was a bit of material left still so I took a Gamble and used the belt sander to "true" the pad and JB welded the new pad over top and they also fit very well thankfully lol.

Definitely too cold up here in Canada wothout a heater in hunting season. And for some reason I cannot post my pictures. It's says failed every time I try. Is it maybe not possible to do from a phone?

That is what I figured. Just had to make sure. It's  1" -> 5/8 y fittings that I need for that and dam are they expensive!

I'm interested in a heater also. Did you get an Ice Crusher? That is the only one I have seen for them.

Ended up getting one on eBay. I will try post some pictures. It's a 3 vent one. First one we got was a 4 vent with double squirrel cage blowers but was too big to fit anywhere.

Looking for advice on installing a heater in our 2018 zforce 800. Where does everyone hook the coolant lines too? Pictures would be greatly appreciated

Found a place that sells rolls of brake / clutch lining material. Ordered a 6' roll of 1" wide by 3/16 thick was $22 going to try re line my brake pads. Found a guy on a arctic cat forum that did the same thing and has ahad great luck so far. Will be binding the material with JB weld and let cure in a vice for 24-48 hr. The site to get the material from is http://www.mcmaster.com/

Will continue updating as I go once the material arives. I figure what the hell 26$ to try this or 240$ for new pads up here in Canada. For how terrible the Cfmoto pads are ide be happy if the diy ones last 200km for the price difference. The factory ones only made it 320km I believe it was.

Awesome thank you! Now I'm not sure if it's because the USA and Canadian sites are different but still having trouble finding them on there. Going too keep searching tho. Much appreciated

Looking for the best brake pads for our 2018 zforce ex. Google is not producing anything for me on this. I've been told that 2017 is different and will not work. Any input is appreciated

I went and bought cheap pool noodles and stuffed them everywhere to seal under the dash and around the steering shaft. Never put any around the gas pedal yet but man oh man did that help a lot.

Well I don't think it's the sprague clutch. Hi and low it will very slowly Decellerate. And I mean slow. But it keeps the engine rpms up until stopped. So I suppose I will go to step 2 and try clicking the clutch to b2 and if that fails I will have to take it back to the dealer maybe. Going to hope for the best! I apreciate all the helpful info everyone!

Well me and the wife recently traded the 2016 500 zforce in on a 2018 zforce 800 exp. love it so far except one thing. The engine brake is non existent and with the insane price of pads for these things mixed with the extrem short life I am against using the foot brake unless absolutely needed. So has anyone experience this? Looking for a remedy. When we are driving say 30-40km and let off we just coast where with the old 500 we would come to a stop reletively quick at the same speed. The one of the biggest selling points on this machine and it's dissapointing at best

The air cleaner intake inside the cave between the sets . There is another intake behind the driver seat maybe cvt breather.

Yes...for us here..because of the heat and dust, IMO is a must to get that engine intake out of there and put a second filter on it. The CVT..well, I found my clutches were getting packed with our dust and wearing the parts out just way too fast so..I also tried several things to slow that dust ingestion. Thing is, that CVT moves way more air through it then the engine does and whatever filter you put on it gets restrictive very fast..and that means slower and less air to cool it...shoot I put a temp gauge on mine and before the snorkel when I had it in the bed, it was plugging up in less then 30 miles and the average temps went from 140-160 to 210. Now..with the stacks and especially when I put my prefilter over the intake, I'm good for a week of camp-n-rides with our group. And my CVT stays clean and working good. I have all kinds of pics and vids in the how-to section on this. It's an evolution..thing for me. Started with porting a hole to the outside for the engine air and ended up with these monstrosities. Full 3" on both. The right one is engine air...had a twinair coned foam in the can and an oversixed 5x8" unifilter in the box. The left is CVT..has the dry type pleated cone in the can with foam prefilter so I can just pop it apart, blow it out and get back to riding when necessary. Also have a booster fan on it that helps if things start getting warmer then I want.

I searched the forum and I swear I saved your post of you doing the snorkel/ enclosed  air filter setup you did bit I cannot find it now for the life of me for some reason. What were the New air filter housings called again that you used? And what size fan did you use for the CVT?