I have the same problem, any guidance on how to adjust the cable? My gears work fine except Low, half the time i shift into it it grinds bady and i have to go >> H and L again to try one more time.

Not sure how you've managed bro (let us know), but TBH, i would just venture to learn how to weld at this point. I have a friend who rides very hard and the amount of frame fixing he's done is insane. A arm brackets broke off literally, that is how hard he rides. He works on a bike for 2 days and the frame and everything is like new. That is my goal one day, consider it too if you ride a lot. Invest once and forever fix stuff like that on your own.

Wow! Same thing just happened on my new cforce 1000 with 2200km on. So is the last reply a valid resolution to this issue? Thanks guys. Bike is under warranty. Should I go take it in right away?

Is there some adjustment and if so where? My shifter goes fine into all gears except Low. it grinds when not engaged and it happens frequently. thanks

Can anyone please describe with details? Where is it, how high on a stock bike?

Just wondering how deep would the water have to be for me to worry about mud getting into the CVT and having to open the cover to clean it out.

Second question... I assume the CVT has a little drain hole and it will only let water out, not in, correct?

Hello everyone, issue has been resolved.

The telling thing was that main starter solenoid, with big 30amp fuse was blowing it every 4 months. Melting it to pieces.

Turns out it was causing the voltage spikes!

Solenoid was replaced and the issue has been fixed.

I got an amazing and very well priced rad relocation kit from http://www.rubberdowncustoms.ca/

Very happy so far, it has been 2 months since install. That's for Canada FYI. No import fees from USA and USD conversions.

OK thanks, understood. So it comes down to testing. Appreciated. I might be dropping it off at another dealership, as the first one doesn't seem to have any qualified staff... Sadly, the other dealership has said they've only carried and serviced cfmoto for the last 2 years, so i asked them if they can tap into the knowledge database, hopefully maintained by cfmoto HQ, but his answer wasn't clear. They have carried Polaris tho for years so hopefully the tech and repairs are similar.

In the meantime, i will try to continue to use the bike. Is it harmful to use it with the momentary voltage spikes until it warms up? Can something be damaged if I get some 16.8v etc a few times for the first few minutes?

So you say stator is not difficult to replace. that's great.

Any ideas why voltage spikes on cold but not on hot motor?

Would that possibly suggest the stator or not?

UPDATE: as it happened 2 weeks ago as well! I am getting somewhere! I think it ONLY does it when it's cold! not so much on hot engine!

Just came back from a 25km ride and has not shown me voltage even once!!!

And of course, V came on right BEFORE this ride, on cool engine.

So???

Found this on a polaris forum. Stator??

"I just went through a similar situation with a 2005 sportsman 400. Overcharging up to over 19v. I replaced the ecm and it didn't fix it. Got another ecm from dealer to make sure it wasnt a faulty ecm out of the box. Still didn't fix it. So I pulled the stator out and sure enough there was a spot that arched out. Replaced stator with a cheap one from Caltric and it fixes the issue. Think it was under $50 for stator through Caltric on ebay"

Is this possible here and is stator replacement super easy on cfmoto or lots of parts have to come off?

Battery is tight. Solenoid and fuse seem tight.

I do not have service manual of course so i imagine this is where my involvement ends. and hope they can troubleshoot. it just pisses me off that it happens now immediately when i start the engine and sure enough did not freakin happen THERE when I was there with the bike 2 days ago. f insane the crap luck. i get 16.8v and i think even 17.x flashed for a moment, UNLESS.... the voltmeter that is built in produces wrong values but how possible is that since most of the time it shows 13-15 volts which I understand is ok.

4. I still do not know what happened back then. Evening #1 i bring the bike home, brand new. .Runs and dies after 2 minutes, then goes back to life, runs and dies after 1 minute. and so on for about 15 minutes and is totally dead. I smelled something burned.

Located the burn under the seat, the fuse next to the solenoid was toast. Bring it to the dealer next day, NO CLUE what he did, did he replaced the fuse? I don't recall but i think the fuse holder was melted. Did they replace the solenoid? NO CLUE.

Bike runs great for 6 months, not single issue. Then in april on the trails, same symptom. Runs and dies shortly. After 5 minutes, no power, dead . We locate a burnt 25amp fuse. Replaced with 30 and good until now.

What do you advise? Do you think both issues are connected?

Hey NMK, dang thanks so much for your time. I truly appreciate it.

I will reply in a list so it is easier to address it.

1. I do not see any flashing / warning lights. no. I don't even know if they exist on the dash, do they? The suspicious thing is that in the first 6 months, the bike did not switch over to voltage display by itself and now it does. I assume that is a built in feature that alerts me to the issue.

2. The new regulator looked black and clean so i assume they changed it. Otherwise they'd be total scammers, right? Yes, the old one could have been cleaned but why on earth.. right?

3. I will double check the connections to the battery to make sure they are tight.

4. When the bike was bought, i had an issue IMMEDIATELY. MOment i brought it home! Under the seat the main solenoid was burnt , all power was lost (after 30 minutes of it dying and dying). I took it in and NOT sure what they did, maybe they just replaced the fuse but it looked and smelled burnt. Fast forward 6 months and it happens again on the trails! Bike dies. We check and the fuse is blown, someone also put a 25 amp fuse in there even tho the fuse cover said 30. I put in a new 30 amp fuse and so far so good. BUT according to what you said, do you think these two things could be related??? (is this what you called "internal cold connection issue"? could it be loose, the whole solenoid etc?)

5. finally, where do i check the real voltage and how. i have a multimeter but just need to know precisely where. Pls describe with details, thanks so much! (still, it is annoying as hell when the display switches to volts and it did not do that before).

OK, removed that video as it was crap. I was recording something else at that time, hence the quality. Here is a new one. See voltage coming on by itself and jumping as much as 16.8 volts for a moment.

UPDATE: took it in (2hrs driving round trip, time, gas, loading it up, stress), dealer replaced voltage regulator and declared it finished. I test drove for 2 minutes around his lot and all was good (it comes on randomly, not always right away). And of course, i bring it home, unload, take it for a ride and ... 3 minutes later voltage is displayed again. Fudge!!!!

What is next to look into? Someone mentioned stator? I have no idea about these things. So I appreciate all the input.. the dealer might not have the necessary experience either. Do you know if they can tap into some larger CFMOTO knowledge database? I would imagine the HQ has techs who know this system inside and out and can advice the dealer of the solution or maybe they have seen this issue before? (i would assume they have, no? Clearly the dashboard is designed to display voltage when an issue is detected, so...)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWm8sONVwik