I've read all 5 pages and never saw that.
Reread the 1st post several times and never saw that. Just reread 1st again and still didn't see it.

But I'm going to take your word. Not arguing one little bit.

I do have the one way bearing / sprag.  Can be see in one pic of the clutch drum/bell. So I now know and can order parts. Parts for the HL with engine breaking system.

Thanks for the help.

And just a FYI all the pawls on the clutch itself are worn the same. The two pics are of different pawls.

Anyway. Thanks again.

I don't know which one to get. The part diagrams call for the HL and/or the MC.

On the clutch assembly diagram the only thing that seems the same is the clutch pawls on one website. And even they are different on another. If just rebuilding the existing clutch assemble.

Got clutch out today. It just has lube channels that carry the oil. Didn't drain the oil before disassemble but only lost maybe 1/2 quart. Didn't have a clean container to catch the oil since I just did an oil change.

All bearings seem fine, even the one way.
Just going to have to order clutch and gaskets.

Think I've located a source for clutch, one way bearing, and gaskets for half price of the  OEM supplier I was using. Said it was for my model. And the OEM diagram says that 2007-2016 are all same part.

Just a few questions.
The clutch drum has a few lite grooves. Pics below. I'm thinking it will be fine but would like a second opinion.

2nd How do I know if this moto has a HL or MC clutch. It is not a cv-tech primary or driver sheaves, but the secondary or driven sheave is. What is the different between the two.

Only numbers I can find on the clutch is 20130226 which is the manufacture date as far as I can tell.

Doug,

If the bearings are "sealed" shouldn't  they be removed, unsealed, then reinstalled, new hub seals. That way they can be greased on a regular basis without having to remove the hub? Just asking. I've seen greasers that just push in with a grease fitting on the end. To pump grease in the hub to grease bearings. Kinda like a bearing buddy for trailers.

Just one piece of advice.

IF YOU REMOVE THE AXLE NUT.

CHECK
CHECK
AND RECHECK!!!

That you have it back on correct.
Correct torque.

Then check again. If stake nuts, make sure to restake then. If castle nut, make sure to put the pin back in. And maybe get a few pins just in case

Don't  ask how I know.

Tested the way NMK said. Below are the video results. I'm going to say the clutch is shot.

If you watch the videos turn DOWN volume.

Up in the air
https://youtu.be/i0GLxM-U-LQ



On the ground
https://youtu.be/ygUhH92phBU



Pushing by hand, Moto in neutral.
https://youtu.be/qNFSaSC3JYk

When I get everything apart, I'll let everyone know what I find out.

Is the wet clutch in a oil bath or does it just have passages?

Yes sir, used oil labeled as 10w40 ATV UTV for wet clutch systems. And no additives.

Thought about adding a little MMO but did NOT. Just oil.

I thought the same thing. That is the reason I changed the oil. So made sure the oil was full.

Thanks for the advice.

Thank you for reply.

So your saying take CVT cover back off. Sit on ground. Have wife behind wheel and try to move.

If only primary spins it is a belt issue.

If nothing spins its a wet clutch issue. Then I have a decision to make. Do I want cheese with the whine.

I have the Z manual. Again thank you.

There is a guy local on Facebook that has a 2020 Z 800 that he wants to sell for $5000. Was flooded a few months back. Cranks but doesn't start. May take 2 and create a Frankenmoto.

The machine is a 2013 Uforce 600. 2013 Cf600-5

This started a few weeks ago with a front axle nut backing out. Had to use winch and my ladder rack on my truck to get the POS home. When nut came off and not noticing until too late. The threads on the axle were ate up. Ordered new axle and installed.

After that repair went for a little test ride. Was acting like CVT belt was slipping and heard a clicking in driver rear axle.

The wheel side of axle boot was destroyed. So I was able to flip the cage that the bearing fit in. Fill with grease. Install a boot.
Test drive. The POS wouldn't pull a grease string out of a cat's (you know the rest).

Replaced the CVT belt, changed oil, filter, spark plug. Test drive again. Would move out of it own way.

Downed again. Both rear tires off ground. Pulled CVT cover. Rechecked everything.  Started with cover off. Shifted in gear. Belt pulled. Wheels spun. Belt did its thing with RPMs increase up and down the primary and secondary. Didn't notice any wore spots in the belt. Cover back on test drive again. Very high RPM to get the thing to move. High, low, or reverse.

How hard of a job is it to replace the wet clutch?
Where is a good source for the part?
Could it be something else?
Anybody want to buy this POS? Thinking real hard about having a weenie roast or target practice.

It is possible, 50/50 chance, I drug the POS home, about 4 miles, in gear. Been so long ago can't remember, was dark out when SHTF. I wasn't in a very good mood.

If the link to this brake catalog must be taken down I understand.

https://ebcbrakes.com/assets/Flip-Catalogues/EBC_Issue_202_MC_Catalogue_May_2020/mobile/index.html

CFMOTO starts on page 230 in the bottom search box. Then later in the catalog the part number is listed in numerical order. Gives cross reference numbers. My machine wasn't listed. but got close and on detail pages shows it did cross over.

Has other machines there as well.

NMK,
Thanks for looking and the quick reply.
I'm going to order the dorman nut and take the un-needed axle back.

The issue with the center cap was resolved with 1/2" fender washers behind the wheel. They were about 1/16" thick.

Put on new brake pads on front. The driver's side was a little too thick. Had to take a grinder to remove some of the pad material. Had to grease all the slide parts. Mic said the driver's side pads were a little over 9mm thick. That's including the metal.

The passenger side was 8mm thick including the metal. Didn't have to grind any on those.

Kinda looked like water in the driver's side caliper, but passenger side was all brake oil. At $7 a set compared to $30. Will see how they last.

Greased all 4 sets of wheel bearing.

Topped off front diff and rear final with hypoid oil left over from outboard.

Test drive and all seems fine. Can see both rear tires pull in the mud. Front brakes work good. Doesn't drag. Can push the moto when in neutral.

Will let mud dry and check for leaks.

Then a good bath.

Next on the list is a new CV belt, plug, oil change, rear brake, and radiator flush. Add snorkels so I can put exhaust wrap and heat shield engine compartment. Then close up engine compartment to see if that cuts down on the noise. Then make frame for doors. Going to use 3/4" conduit. Got some metal of the data cabinets that we just installed. Going to use them to skin the frame. Maybe tarp or 1/4" plywood for back of the cab.

Little at a time.

Well, did some more digging. Haven't had a chance to contact the supplier but have came to the conclusion that the nuts I ordered ONLY fit the OEM axle.

Searched other suppliers and determined that a replacement axle requires a 5HY0-110001 nut. Which is a M20 nut. But I don't know the thread pitch. I did find other recent models with the same nut as standard equipment. Listed below are the models.

2016 CFMoto ZFORCE 800 EX CF800
2018 CFMoto CFORCE 500 HO CF500AU-6L
2018 CFMoto CFORCE 500 S CF500AU-7S
2018 CFMoto UFORCE 800 CF800-3
2018 CFMoto UFORCE 800 CF800-3 - UFORCE 800
2018 CFMoto ZFORCE 1000 CF1000US-2
2018 CFMoto ZFORCE 500 CF500US
2018 CFMoto ZFORCE 800 EX CF800
2018 CFMoto ZFORCE 800 Trail CF800US-A
2019 CFMoto CFORCE 400 CF400AU
2019 CFMoto CFORCE 500 S CF500AU-7S
2019 CFMoto CFORCE 600 CF600AU-L
2019 CFMoto CFORCE 800 XC CF800AU-2A
2019 CFMoto UFORCE 1000 CF1000UU
2019 CFMoto UFORCE 500 CF500UU
2019 CFMoto UFORCE 800 CF800-3
2019 CFMoto ZFORCE 1000 CF1000US-2
2019 CFMoto ZFORCE 500 CF500US
2019 CFMoto ZFORCE 800 EX CF800
2019 CFMoto ZFORCE 800 Trail CF800US-A
2020 CFMoto CFORCE 400 CF400AU
2020 CFMoto CFORCE 500 S CF500AU-7S
2020 CFMoto CFORCE 600 CF600AU-3S
2020 CFMoto CFORCE 600 Touring CF600AU-3L
2020 CFMoto CFORCE 800 XC CF800AU-2A
2020 CFMoto UFORCE 1000 CF1000UU
2020 CFMoto UFORCE 500 CF500UU
2020 CFMoto UFORCE 800 CF800-3
2020 CFMoto ZFORCE 500 CF500US
2020 CFMoto ZFORCE 800 EX CF800
2020 CFMoto ZFORCE 800 Trail CF800US-A
2020 CFMoto ZFORCE 950 Sport CF1000US-A
2021 CFMoto CFORCE 400 CF400AU
2021 CFMoto CFORCE 500 S CF500AU-7S
2021 CFMoto CFORCE 600 CF600AU-3S
2021 CFMoto CFORCE 600 Touring CF600AU-3L
2021 CFMoto CFORCE 800 XC CF800AU-2A
2021 CFMoto UFORCE 1000 CF1000UU
2021 CFMoto UFORCE 800 CF800-3
2021 CFMoto ZFORCE 500 CF500US
2021 CFMoto ZFORCE 800 EX CF800
2021 CFMoto ZFORCE 800 Trail CF800US-A
2021 CFMoto ZFORCE 950 Sport CF1000US-A

Could someone verify that the axle nuts are a M20 castle nut?

Could someone find the thread pitch? I'm thinking it is 1.5 but not sure.

If it is, I can order one from local auto parts for about $7. Dorman part.

There may have info on the nuts in a service manual for a model listed above. Could someone that has a manual take 5 minutes and take a look. Would be greatly appreciated.

Kinda happy and kinda upset with part supplier.

Ordered oil seal, axle, and 4 nuts. The new axle didn't come with the nut and they only sold 4 and 6 count packages of axle nuts.

Got oil seal in. No issues there.
New axle went in the diff with no issues. It locked in place. Greased the suspension.

Then went to put axle nut on and things sideways from there on.
The new axle nuts didn't fit the threads on axle.
The nut from old axle didn't fit.
Made sure part number on bag of nuts was what I ordered AND were the numbers on diagram. They were. Made sure numbers engraved on axle was the same as diagram. It was. Tried to call supplier and it was 5 minutes after the end of day. That's a Monday call I guess.

Went to auto parts store. Couldn't find nut that fit. Tractor Supply didn't have nut. Hardware stores all closed until Monday. Went 30 miles to Lowes. No luck there. Another parts store. Told guys if they could find a nut that fit, I'd buy the part. $100 later I walked out with a axle that fit a I don't know what, and a nut the screwed on threads of my axle. Now smooth sailing. Right? Wrong.

Got home. Put axle together by flashlight. Went to put wheel on. Then the end of axle pushed the center cap off the rim. I know it no big deal. But you think if you ordered the correct part you would have to rig it to fit.

I can get another nut for the un-needed axle and take it back.

I can get my grinder and take off a little of the axle. But still upset. And that will void the warranty. And I don't even know if there is a warranty. Guess I'll ask when I call on Monday.

And a job that should have taken 30-45 minutes tops. Was over 6 hours.

Below are the pics of new and old axle side by side. The new axle is on the bottom, old on top.

Right, pushing air thru the CVT system instead of the CVT system sucking in the air.

Was looking at my UForce and seen that it was setup to suck air into the CVT system. Then the other side of engine was setup to suck air and blow it on the exhaust.

A 5" fan system could be doable on mine. The exhaust side anyway. And the CVT side looked like it had the clearance.

You don't have to tell me the woes of a stator and regulator. Had to replace a bad stator on my evinrude 110 and the regular just in case of. And then there was the Yamaha that was a nightmare to correct. Went thru 3 (cheap, junk) regulators and a stator until I finally got OEM and corrected the problem.

I was just thinking out loud about the cooling fans (or blowers as I called them) and was looking on amazon for stuff and the bilge fan popped up.
I said to myself, "self do you think that fan would help you or others get a little more getup out of a engine." And self said "Maybe."

So I thought I'd post it.

I know the mechanical fans has to take come toll on the HP. Don't know how much but some.
I don't know if the electrical system could handle the draw of the fans. Because there would be more needed.