Hi Topdog27,

Sorry to learn of your misfortune with gas in the oil.

Any fixes:- The key is determine where or how the fuel is getting into the crankcase, if you have fuel injectors then clearly one or more of the injectors are shot and just pumping fuel into the engine. If its a carburettor then the float system is shot and just leaking fuel into the engine.

Is the motor gone/shot:- Difficult to answer this one a bit like how long is a piece of string. Predominantly the answer depends on how long the motor has been running for in this state i.e. with petrol diluting the lubrication system with catastrophic damage to all engine bearing surfaces and cylinder walls. If its been like this for a long time the damage will be catastrophic requiring a new engine. If you have literally just caught it and the engine has not been running for a long time in this state then it can be rescued. Drain the engine oil, change the oil filter, fit a new filter and fresh oil, flush the engine with an engine flush, change the oil and the filter again after the flush. Run the engine with new oil and filter and check for white smoke from the exhaust, if there is white smoke oil is passing the piston rings and burning in the combustion chamber, means the engine is scrap. If there is no white smoke then you have managed to rescue your motor. If this is the case well done but keep a check on engine oil consumption.

GMSAHFR     

Hi Super 8,

Follow what NMKawierider is trying to help you with!!!

There is just no point in considering a larger battery!!! aAl you will do is to expatiate the problem you already have, you may even cause an electrical fire due to the high resistance you have that you have not located yet.

Find out what is causing your voltage drop first, then consider alternatives, better than a bigger battery is the consideration of a gel battery with greater Amp/hour output but not too much amp/hour.

Take care GMSAHFR

Jan, Dzien dobry,
Firstly, I agree with NMKawierider and Murdo posted responses, in that you need to avoid the dealer you are currently using.
They are fault diagnosing by substitution, they are just guessing, fitting any parts in the hope that the fault will go away. This is not the correct diagnosis path for fault finding, it is if anything a clear sign that they have no clue what they are doing.
OK let's commence with your fault error code P109800.
As I have mentioned on previous posts these "P" codes are not CFMOT codes, these are generic "P" codes created by the software manufacturer of the injection ECU i.e. Delphi or Bosch. So, when your diag tool is reading the fault code information it is accessing the bespoke software inside the injection ECU.
The error code P109800 indicates a fault with the O2 sensor, or the oxygen sensor located somewhere on your exhaust pipe. It is a more specific code than others in that it specifically relates to a slow response from the O2 sensor after you have taken your foot off the throttle i.e. "Fuel Shut Off Phase" of the injection ECU.
However, what ever happens please do not rush out and get a new O2 sensor, this is the error everyone makes. The fault could be occurring due something else causing the O2 sensor to respond slowly. For example, any of the wires connecting the O2 sensor to the injection ECU could be at fault. There could be an exhaust leak somewhere close to the O2 sensor, there could also be an air leak somewhere on the induction system. There is loads of rubber tubing on the intake systems of these CFMOTO side by side's and ATV's, the perish or crack cause intake leaks and flag up P error codes for the O2 sensor. So, check all of this first before you rush out and obtain a new O2 sensor, but once more before you do that remove the O2 sensor and check and test it first. There are loads of You Tube Videos out there explain how to test an O2 sensor.   
Despite my daughter in-law being Polish my polish language skills are poor, so forgive me for the Polish translation below if it does not make sense.

Po pierwsze, zgadzam się z NMKawierider i Murdo zamieścili odpowiedzi, że powinieneś unikać dealera, którego obecnie używasz. Diagnozują wadę przez podstawienie, tylko zgadują, dopasowują dowolne części z nadzieją, że usterka zniknie. To nie jest właściwa droga diagnostyczna do wykrywania błędów, to wręcz wyraźny znak, że nie mają pojęcia, co robią. Dobrze, zacznijmy od twojego kodu błędu P109800. Jak wspominałem w poprzednich wpisach, te kody "P" nie są kodami CFMOT, lecz ogólnymi kodami "P" stworzonymi przez producenta oprogramowania ECU do wtrysku, czyli Delphi lub Bosch. Więc gdy narzędzie diagnostyczne odczytuje informacje o kodach błędu, korzysta z dedykowanego oprogramowania wewnątrz ECU wtryskowego. Kod błędu P109800 wskazuje na awarię czujnika O2 lub czujnika tlenu znajdującego się gdzieś na rurze wydechowej. Jest to bardziej precyzyjny kod niż inne, ponieważ odnosi się konkretnie do powolnej reakcji czujnika O2 po zdjęciu nogi z przepustnicy, czyli "fazy wyłączenia paliwa" w ECU wtrysku. Jednak cokolwiek się stanie, proszę, nie spieszcie się z nowym czujnikiem O2, to jest błąd, który popełnia każdy. Usterka może wynikać z innego powodu, co powoduje wolną reakcję czujnika O2. Na przykład każdy z przewodów łączących sensor O2 z ECU wtrysku może być uszkodzony. Może być nieszczelność wydechu gdzieś blisko czujnika O2, a także nieszczelność powietrza w układzie doprowadzającym powietrze. Na układach dolotowych tych CFMOTO i ATV jest mnóstwo gumowych rur, które powodują wycieki dolotowe i wykrywają kody błędów P dla czujnika O2. Sprawdź to wszystko najpierw, zanim spieszysz się po nowy czujnik O2, ale jeszcze raz przed tym usuń czujnik O2 i najpierw sprawdź i przetestuj. Jest mnóstwo filmów na YouTube, które wyjaśniają, jak przetestować czujnik O2. Mimo że moja synowa jest Polką, moje umiejętności języka polskiego są słabe, więc wybaczcie mi tłumaczenie na polski poniżej, jeśli nie ma sensu.

Hi Scottchai1107,

Ok yes, I agree in that you have a harness issue, potentially a ground issue. No point in guessing or diagnosing by a process of elimination of components as you will end up changing every component in the start/stop circuitry and still be in the same boat.

For the sake of your wallet stop diagnosing by process of elimination as it can get very expensive.

Start with a current wiring diagram for your ride and work through every part of the start/stop circuitry checking voltage feed, open circuit and resistance at ground points.

I will end by asking if you have pressure cleaned your ride and potentially forced water into components of the start/stop circuit. Done the same thing via a deep wade event in water?  Did this issue just occur out of the blue or did it occur after one of the above water ingress issues?

GMSAHFR 

Hi Slowie,

The Ecu will be manufactured by Delphi or Bosch, CFMOTO do not manufacture these units, they just buy them in bulk from fuel injection ECU manufacturers.

Establish, extract all the information from the label on the ECU i.e. manufacturer, Model number, series, type, year of manufacture, injection type. You will aslo get this information from your CFMOTO workshop manual.

Type this info into your browser and there will be alternative suppliers of these ECU's other than CFMOTO.

As for the 2021 ECU, I doubt very much if it will be thew same, injection manufactures update their hardware and software on a yearly basis to conform with legislation and emission issue requirements. Let alone the generic need to update and improve their products on offer every year.

All the best GMSAHFR

Hi Lph008,

You're barking up the wrong tree.

It sounds like to me that you do not have a mechanical problem preventing the brake pedal from returning.

You have instead a hydraulic problem, or to be more precise a low level hydrostatic lock in the hydraulic fluid path.

Somewhere in your brake hydraulic circuitry is a blockage, caused by debris, a sticking or locked or blocked valve.

Fashion or manufacture yourself some adaptors that will connect hydraulicly to every connection point on your circuit, the adaptor should be hydraulic connection on one side and compressed air on the other. Now just like tracing a fault on an electrical circuit go to every point on the circuit until you locate the blockage.

Alternatively in place of using compressed air to hydraulic adaptors you can use a brake system bleeder then it will hydraulic to hydraulic adaptor, it will get a messy with  compressed air with brake fluid being blow all over the place. Having said that it will be equal as messy with a brake bleeder still squirting brake fluid everywhere make sure you use bleed containers and plenty of rags to keep the mess down.

Best of Luck  GMSAHFR

Hi Rapidoxidationman,

The letter "L" on your display more than likely is indicating you are in "Low" gear selection.

Put it to the test by selecting "high Gear" it should change to "H".

GMSAHFR

Gentlemen,

Please as one grows wise into our stealth years of maturity we see the world differently to our younger less wiser years. This comes from a very wise and mature 69-year-old, believe that and you will believe anything in terms of wiseness of course!!!!
The body throws many challenges at us, some we can fix permanently, some we can repair temporarily, other challenges we tolerate because there is little the medical pros or we can do to alleviate the situation.
It reminds me very much of being the owner of a CFMOTO machine we tolerate these machines, new, or ortherwise. Just like our maturing bodies sometimes there is a fix and sometimes there is not.
Life in a nutshell I guess "Tolerance", my wife would be able to write chapter and verse in a number of volumes on tolerance but sorry just have not got time for that here.
Live long, be happy, whatever you want or want to do "DO IT" there is but one life to do this in!!!!
   
GMSAHFR

Yep ...................there are loads of disadvantages, spacers that are too thick stress the wheel bearings. If you drive and corner hard wheel bearing life expectancy is drastically reduced.

The wrong wheel/spacer combination will also stress steering and suspension joints and consequently reduce their life expectancy too.

The wrong type of wheel and spacer combination can cause brake calliper operation issues and or wheel rubbing or hitting the calliper.

Wheels that are just too wide for the wheel arch cover you and your ride with S*it and mud, Ok I know some guys like that.....so fine if that's what you want.

Much better, safer and in the long run less expensive with accelerated component wear for you and the mechanics of your ride to get a wider wheel/tyre combination that fits your wheel hub without the requirement for a spacer.

Take car, have fun GMSAHFR

Hi Paul,

Not many in UK like you and me!

I too do similar things with my CFMOTO X8 with my queen sat in her queen seat, we tend to go off road for good photographic opportunities, we are also allowed to use to military tank range roads on Salisbury plains when the military are not using them of course.

Take care and have fun.

GMSAHFR

Hi again Burnzie,

Luck is the operative word, well selected!

When an injector requires cleaning, checking for correct spray pattern and precise fuel quantity delivery, there is no additive in the world that can do this.

Injectors must be cleaned in an ultrasonic bath, spray pattern checked then all checked together to confirm that each injector is delivery the same and correct quantity of fuel.   

Additive manufactures will tell you anything to sell their products, you pay the money so you make the choice and take the chance.

It is false economy and some cases especially where injection systems are concerned can make make matters worse.

GMSAHFR

Hi Burnzie,

Avoid all forms of additives to fuel and oils like the plague.

These were developed and were of more use during the 60's and the 70's when fuels and lubricants lacked additives, were inferior and would cause damage to components in the engine and transmission.

If you have a problem with your injection system "Fix It" additives will not fix it despite the alleged claims of the additive manufacturers.

There is a greater likelihood of short term and long term damage from additives than any claimed benefits.

The majority of fuels and lubricants today have all the necessary additives to improve economy, reduce wear and tear and prolong the life of an engine and transmission. A[part from petrol with an Ethanol additive, it keeps the environment clean but actually reduces fuel economy.

GMSAHFR

Hi Matt,

Sorry to learn of the challenges you are getting, it can be very frustrating for a working bike.

Ok sounds like you have taken some preliminary steps to check the basics.

Swoping out relays is a fair trial but can cause some issues, relays like all electrical components can be tested and substituted in this manner but only with caution!

Why.............all electrical components can only be tested, checked and or substituted when under electrical load, testing and substituting in the yard when ticking over is not a finite diagnostic methodology.

So what do you do without an electrical test bench for your electrical components, lets start with the relays, i.e. the micro relays, locate the main beam relay, let the engine tick over in the yard with full beam on, all lights on and hazards. The main beam relay or relays are being tested under load, now substitute with the other relays by the same method.

Outside of this basic field method of load testing relays it is difficult to test the remainder of your electrical components under load in the field without the use of workshop load testers and a diagnostic tool monitoring electrical load.

If it is an ignition coli for example it sounds from your description that it could be breaking down under load on the mountain side when hot and under electrical load, very difficult to check, diagnose in your yard with just a multimeter. 

Take Care GMSAHFR

Hi SuburbonDad,

In answer to your question would your tank/pump problem create a p0174 code.

The response is a definitive yes, as p0174 is the code for lean fuel mix, which is correct as you have fuel supply/starvation issues with the pump body/unit not sitting correctly into the tank threads.

Get it resolved ASAP as a lean fuel mix can cause overheating problems in addition to the issues you are already experiencing.

GMSAHFR

Hi TrailStar 500,

Sounds like a typical kill switch circuit issue to me.

If the pump is not priming then its not getting 12Volts, especially if you have checked the pump independently.

However, check the full start circuit electrically sometimes they have 2 or 3 relays fitted, some can be mini relays which are prone to issues.

Locate where the pump gets it feed from on the start circuit .......follow and check this element of the circuit.

GMSAHFR