A friend of mine is making Youtube videos, and thought it would be fun to document some of the work on my ZForce 800 Trail. Check out his other videos, too. There's a popular one of when we replaced the front shocks on his Ford Raptor.

This video is the beginning of the work on installing Bandit springs and shocks, and replacing the wheel bearings. I've never had as much trouble removing a cotter pin as I did with the on is this video. Man, it was tight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2X6ONtGicco

I have a 2017 ZForce 800 that had an engine that suddenly lost compression.  I'm thinking a backfire caused the cam timing to skip.  I'm not sure that's what actually caused the issue, but it ran great one day, and then suddenly it backfired while starting it the next, and had close to no compression on either cylinder.  I got a great deal on a new engine, so I had that swapped out, and the original one is for sale for someone that wants a core to rebuild.

It was in a 2017 ZForce 800 Trail, and had about 1900 miles on it.  Right now it is complete, including the clutches, clutch cover, throttle body, etc.  It is packed back in the crate that the new engine came in, so it can be shipped freight, if you aren't near me.

Here's a video of the new engine, before it was removed from the crate.  The old one should be as complete, except dirtier, and needing repair.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icGlXRQtvic

The engine is located in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho.  Let me know if you have any questions.  Thanks.

The dealership did reopen today, so I was able to drop it off there.  I guess we'll see what they find.  I'd normally do this stuff myself, but my back just isn't playing right now.

I'm curious as hell to understand what would make both cylinders fail like that at the same time.

No doubt.  I need to figure it out, but my back has been killing me, so I can't work on it for very long each time.

Actually, I'm not very agile at all, but after years of working on cars, I usually figure things out.  I pulled the center cover of the bed, stood on a block, and reached down from there.  I've had back surgery, so crouching and bending is pretty painful.  That's why I think if my dealer actually reopens tomorrow, it may need to go to them.

Thanks for your help.

Can you easily get to the front valve cover from behind the seats if you remove the plastics?  The guy that owned this before me was trying to control dust, and spray foamed and taped every seam and gap in there. 

The only compression tester I could get my hands on today with a 12mm connection was a Harbor Freight, so I don't know how accurate it is, but the cylinder towards the front doesn't have enough compression to move the needle, and the rear one shows about 20psi.  The one towards the front sounds like it chuffs air out the intake while cranking, so I'm guessing the intake valves are open during the compression stroke on that cylinder.

Fun stuff.

The battery voltage was dropping to 11.7 while cranking, so I got a new battery for it. Unfortunately, it does the exact same thing.

I need to try to get my hands on a compression gauge that will fit these tiny holes.

Yeah, it seems strange that it's not popping and backfiring, at least a little, unless the valves are hung open.

When you say low voltage condition, do you mean one that damaged the ECU, or lower voltage than needed by the ECU?

It has spark, but I replaced the plugs anyway. It appears to have compression, but I can't tell how much, since my compression gauge doesn't have a small enough adapter to fit these small plug holes. The fuel doesn't appear to have any water in it, and doesn't smell very bad. I did pull one injector, to see if it had any fuel pressure, and it definitely does. The fuel that came out doesn't look or smell too bad, and burns really well. I took the air cleaner off, and had a friend hold the throttle body open while cranking, and I squirted some starting fluid up it, and it didn't fire at all. While turning over, it sounds like it's pushing air out the intake, which makes me believe that the intake valves are open during the compression stroke, so I'm guessing jumped timing, or intake valves stuck open.

Does anyone know if these are an interference engine?

I had my ride put away this winter, but was starting it every couple of weeks to keep the battery charged.  Once in December, it started, but died right away, so I tried again, and it backfired and wouldn't start.  I pulled the battery because it went dead while trying, and kept it in the garage the rest of the winter, keeping it charged.  Well, it's been a few days since our last snow, so I decided to get it out.  I put the battery in, and turned on the ignition, waited for the fuel pump to run and shut off, but it won't start.

I have checked all of the fuses, and they're all good.  I figured before I spent a ton of time chasing all over, I'd see if anyone else had had a similar issue, and had suggestions of things for me to check or try.  Let me know if you have any ideas.

Thanks.

I'd like to find a single front wheel for a 2017 ZForce 800 Trail.  I'm sure other years and models also fit.  I'm looking for a spare, and was seeing if anyone was parting out a rig, or had swapped on aftermarket wheels, and had their old ones laying around.

Let me know what you have.

Thanks.

Probably in the same place as they were on previous years. Go to the How Tos and look for my post on removing the reverse limiter. It has a video on where it is.

I won't be able to get the driver's side fender off while it's in the trailer.  Do you think it's impossible to get to both bolts from under the hood?  Thanks.

That one on the outside will be a MFr...I don't think it can be done....at least by me...lol.

Thanks for your help.  I was able to get the outside one by reaching up into the wheelwell with a 10mm wrench.  I was standing in front of the UTV, and just kinda reached around and got my hand on it.  It is up against a wall on that side, so seeing what I was doing wasn't possible, but I got it, more easily than I expected.

The other side was easier, with the trunk taken out, but of course, as I attempted to get the bolt loose from the ground wire, it slipped, and went down into the frame of the dash.  I guess I need another m6x16 bolt.  Oops.

Probably in the same place as they were on previous years. Go to the How Tos and look for my post on removing the reverse limiter. It has a video on where it is.

I won't be able to get the driver's side fender off while it's in the trailer.  Do you think it's impossible to get to both bolts from under the hood?  Thanks.

Didn't find any video's in that string of posts ....

This is the one he's talking about:
http://cfmoto-forum.com/how-to's/cf-moto-zforce-800-reverse-rpm-limiter-elimination/

Thanks for your help.