I had tried a twin air few years ago on my z800 and after seeing daylight through it i tossed it straight into the trash lol.

13906.00 out the door in Central PA,  Buttorffs sales and Service. 

On my 2020 z950 there is no seat belt limiter. 

Owners manual: https://cfmotousa.com/portals/0/cf1000usa_5byx3801031000_us202_omusa20200228.pdf

Not got the service manual yet, if anyone has one please post a link or PM me.

If anyone needs service manual pm me on Facebook or email me at [email protected]

Facebook link

https://www.facebook.com/bill.welker26

1.5inch doesnt seem like much but makes world of difference. Feels like more room and a more comfort position then before

Awesome.  Im doing it to mine , i was in a bad car accident so my left leg , knee and hip was shattered so i dont have the range motion that i once had  so a little more room would be awesome.

There are 6 weights inside the clutch cover, each contains a factory weight of 14g, pop out the factory weight and add the penny and re-install the factory weight.(just a snug fit in the plastic holder)

BE SURE AND MARK THE CLUTCH COVER AND HOUSING FOR 'CLOCKING' BEFORE REMOVAL AND REINSTALL IN THE SAME POSITION! (YOU MUST MAINTAIN THE FACTORY BALANCING)

I ride all different types of trails, some quite hilly or rocky. Lots of travel under 10MPH.
I would recommend you start with maybe re-clocking your secondary to the C1 position first to see if you like the difference.
Clutch tuning is a personal preference type thing and a lot of trial and error!
Very easy to do on these new 950 machines tho.

Did you weigh the weights to come up with the 14G ? Cause a buddy weighed the stock weights and the scale shows 16G. Also my spring is black with a few painted blue dots and orange dots.

Also what are you referring to with what you said about marking the clutch cover and housing for clocking ?  Are your referring to making sure the helix ramps on secondary to make sure the ramps get put back to the correct side of the helix plastic shoe ?

My setup is like the airdam clutch kit ,
18 g weights , 1017 ( 200/160 ) spring and secondary clocked to B3. Personally i think A2 would be plenty on secondary but im going run it at b3 for a little .

The weights in stock primary are 16g .
Secondary is just like the rest of the Cfmoto models - B1.

Also for the Airdam clutch kit,  18g weights are used and the 1017 primary spring which is a 200/1600.
I tried the 1012 spring which is 120/1600 and with that spring at Idle , engine Cold , you get some secondary movement . Engine Warm , secondary sets still but once this spring i guess you could say breaks in , the engagement will be even lower which will cause some secondary movement all the time at idle which we dont want.

1012 120/1600 spring engagement is right off idle so about 1600 rpm -- engagement feels great but its to low.

1017 200/1600 spring engagement is approximately 1800 rpm which is the best option at the moment for us.
Here is link where i got mine.

https://canampartsguy.com/product/0951-1017/?v=423b61c18580


18G weights that I used link

https://canampartsguy.com/product/0901-7107/?v=423b61c18580

So far the best combo for us is
18 g weights in primary and the 1017 ( 200/1600 ) spring along with what air dam clutch recommends B3 on secondary clutch , my honest opinion is A2 would be plenty on secondary. 

Hope this is a help to others. 

End of May.  Sounds like you are participating in the Central Mountains ATV Association ride.?  Enjoy your ride!

No family ride. Bunch of my wifes family go every year.

Good information for testing. I will point out though, that the lack of information and parts availability is due to the throttle body being flow tested and set by the manufacturer so that it passes EPA regulations. Many EFI systems are "anti-tampering" like this in that regard....carry on....

Yep I fully understand that and most should. I agree with you but I still say main reason Cfmoto did this was so we have to buy a almost 500.00 throttle body when a TPS can be bought for well under 100.00.  We dont see many bad Cfmoto Tps but on other machines I have. Kawasaki to name one of them and even they sell just the TPS but at 150-175.00 . Ouch.

I have access to new TPS for a great price so I will be purchasing a few to have on hand should anyone need one. They are simple to set.

Since Cfmoto doesn't provide us with any TPS specs I was able to figure the zforce 800 tps out through testing I did. If you are getting P0122 or P0123 Codes and you'd like to test the tps to see what is going on . Here you go.
You'll need a digital voltmeter and set it to its lowest setting which on mine is 20 volt.
Next you will need to unplug the TPS and find the Brown/yellow wire which is the signal wire. You can take a small paper clip and bend it so top is like a T shape making it easier to use. Now take the paper clip and back probe the brown/yellow wire on plug. Take the p clip and slide it in along the wire till you feel it contact the connector in plug. This may take you a cple tries. Once you think you got it , part thats sticking out of plug , bend it so you can plug the TPS back in. Make sure the p clip isn't up against metal where it can short something out. Now take your Black lead and ground it to the engine or I simply stick mine into the 10mm bolt hole that fastens bed engine cover.  Go turn the Key to ON POSITION ENGINE OFF. 
Now take the RED lead and touch the paper clip. You should see .43 - .46 volts at Idle. If you dont , take the 2 screws in tps and loosen them up so you can move tps , holes are egg shaped so tps can be adjusted. Move tps around till you get it to the above voltage range.  Once you get it to the above specs , .44 volt is dead on , now take a long walking stick/ broom handle and reach throttle pedal and push wide open.  Now you should read 4.59 - 4.62 on the volt meter. If you cant get these voltage readings , your TPS is junk and Cfmoto only option is to replace whole throttle body at close to $500. 00. I will be possibly offering a Tps in the near future for a great price once testing is completed.
Tighten down the 2 screws and retest tps to make sure it didnt move.

Solid Brown wire is reference wire or input from ECU and should have at minimum 5.00 volts coming in.
White wire is just a ground.

The Tps has to be dead on or engine will not run proper. Even few mm off adjustment the ecu cant properly fuel the engine or no where the throttle butterfly plate is. If the TPS Is set proper and idle air control valve plunger is clean , idle should never need tampered with , after all it is controlled fully by Ecu and should never be adjusted otherwise unless you know what your doing and these other listed things have been tested and are ok.

https://i.imgur.com/QQYz80A.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QJDgd1s.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IzYHOVT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5ZHtN8F.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/csreGyx.jpg

Hey Clark I pmd you on Facebook.  Just incase you dont get my message there , , ,I put my new Gates belt on my z800 about 300 miles ago , 40C3691. I used scotch brite to clean up sheaves on both clutches.   Broke in the belt the way gates recommended , 2 heat cycles.   Yesterday once and today my belt chirped 2 times. I dont go through water deep enough to get water in CVT so there is no water in there. My old original belt did the same thing.
If I come to quick stop in say high and go to Low and then go pull out it will chirp. Makes no sense.

I replaced the thermo switch and wired the bypass . Just used a simple 2 terminal ON/OFF toggle and works like it should.

Thanks for that. Was not aware they did it that way. So would that make the cylinder towards the front of the machine #1?

I think NMK went on a holiday. I believe the cylinders are numbered 1 toward the back and 2 toward the front of the machine for the reason NMK stated. You'll also find that unlike an ATV, the CVT's secondary clutch is toward the front and the primary clutch toward the rear. 

You are correct. Cyl 1 is facing rear of machine. 2 faces cab.

Here is what I use and they work great.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Push-Pin-Pliers-63700.html

My 2016 z800 exhaust has been leaking for while now , ONLY WHEN COLD. Once it heats up , it expands enough that it doesn't leak. So I guess ill shorten the springs up a hair and make sure the donut gaskets are in place like they should be. It sounds so dumb when I first start it. Also seems make it run rough when cold . Once exhaust is hot enough to seal up , engine runs good.