To circle around to close this up for anyone in the future, in my case it was the 5 amp horn fuse that blew, replaced that and the dash started working.

So my 2021 Cforce 600 Touring started getting a little hard to start as the motor wouldn't turn over so I replaced the battery, and it started a few times and didn't a few times, and then it wouldn't start at all, just clicked when depressing the start button.  When I turned the ignition lock switch the lights would flicker, and after trying to debug the issue the bike does nothing now, except for a few weird power things.

I saw a video about the starter relay & fuse module melting (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M20Jjci3bU4&t=68s) so I checked that and the 30A fuse was pooched and the connector was slightly melted, so I replaced the 30A fuse.  Now it basically does nothing, I can't see, hear, do anything - no fuel pump sound, no horn, nothing.

Voltage at the Light/Control_Signal/DC_Outlet dropped very low when the ignition switch was turned on, so I pulled those 3 fuses and the 12.8V at the battery only dropped to 12.56 at the ignition key switched 12V side of the pulled fuses, which seems like is a big drop with no load. 
When I inserted the Lights fuse or the Control_signal fuse the voltage at the fuse drops to a couple volts .
Note that when I connect up a battery the display toggles on and then off again, so it looks like the display is active.

From the schematic in the shop manual (I ordered one from CFmoto USA as CFmoto Canada doesn't sell them) the ignition key switches power to the three aforementioned fuses and the EPS module.
When I insert either the Lights fuse or the Control_signal fuse the voltage at the fuse drops to a couple volts, the voltage at the battery remains 12.8V  (the DC outlet fuse does nothing as there's no load on it).
I disconnected the EPS module and the Song Remains The Same (song quote for us old buggers).

Help please! 
Thanks
  John

Did you ever track your issue down? I'm going through the same thing but all of my connectors, fuse holders, relay boxes look fine.

Check the main fuse holder itself...not the main fuse. They have had lots of issues with bad internal crimps inside the holder itself.

I just looked and it appears to be fine. I back probed the wires with a test light and also inspected the fuse and holder all looks well.

What's weird is when I take the battery terminals off and reconnect them it starts to cycle.

On the green starter fuse the two thicker wires have power to them. For the thinner wires they don't show power. I'm not sure what the thin wires are for so until I get the diagram I'm a bit stumped. I checked the relays and fuses already.

I'll dive in more when I get home. I did see people mention a glass fuse? Don't recall seeing this. Just the 30a starter relay fuse and the 40a fuse just checked.

Sorry for all the posts, for some reason I can only put one picture on each post

Bringing this one back to life from awhile ago. Today I took a quick ride and when I stopped to reverse it in the trailer I lost all power. Thinking it was the battery I noticed when I touch it to the power at first, it starts to cycle through the startup routine but stops 2 seconds into it. The winch has power but nothing else. Checking the fuses I have power but not at the relay. It's dark now and I have to travel for work in the morning but wanted to ask if you everd figured out what the part was or what your outcome was? I'm sure I can look find it looking at an online diagram but wanted to ask your outcome first. Thanks.

You know...there has been a lot of reports of that switch going bad inside. And Yamaha has one that's practically identical to it and I always though when..or if mine ever went I would adapt the Yamaha's to mine as no one ever reported one of theirs failing.

Thanks, good to know! I don't think the switch is the issue since I hear the motor running when I push the button. I messed with it a little more and found out the front shaft always spins when in gear, the 4x4 is controlled solely by the front diff. Moving the fork/gear inside I was able to get it into 4x4 and 4x2. I decided to manually spin the gear of the actuator when I had it in 4x2 and I was able to get the dashboard to reflect being in 4x2. I heard the actuator is pressure sensitive as far as switching. I took it apart and it did appear that way. Time to order a new one.

So a big thing to note if others are reading this with a similar issue is just because your actuator makes a noise don't assume the internals are working.

I finally got around to messing with this. I was able to loosen up the differential bolts and lift it to get to the last bolt. I replied to another post about rebuilding it but the actuator would move one way and not move again until the diff lock was pushed. Then it would move the other way and not again until you went back and pushed the button from 4x4 to 4x2. Forks and gear looked good so it looks like I need a new actuator.

I'm still stuck in 4x4. I checked the relays. Would anyone know if when you are in gear, if the front drive shaft would be spinning if you are NOT in 4x4? Mine is always spinning. Does anyone know what actually switches the machine from 4x4 to 4x2? I know you push the button and the power must go through the relay and assuming it goes to something on the transmission. Any help troubleshooting how to get it out of 4x4 would be appreciated.

Did you ever try to replace just the motor?

I pulled my actuator this morning. I found it turns one way but will not move again. If I flip over to lock the diff, it will move the other way and not move again. Going back to the 4x4, it will move back the other way. The gear/fork seemed stuck at first but once I took the pin out I was able to free it up. I want to ride soon so my plan is to put it back together and see if I can trick it to go back and forth.

Mine seems to be stuck in 4x4. It will not come out of it on the dash and when in any gear the front drive shaft is spinning. I'll start a new tread on that though.

Thanks

RPM Limiter is somewhere around 7500-7750. Power band or peak HP and torque is somewhere well under that.

So I just got back and picked up my machine. The shift linkage was adjusted to be a little better but now it's not lighting up any of the gears it's in besides park. It used to intermediately or when you push it hard into gear. Half of the bolts were left out, complete joke for the dealer to return it like this. Looks like I'll be taking it apart anyway to double check it.

I went to take the shift actuator off and the bottom bolt is blocked by the tab coming off the frame to hold the lower an arm on. I see most peoples shift actuators are on the passenger side. Mine is on the driver side needing removed towards the rear. Any experience with how to get that bottom bolt out?

Then also check for water in the fuel filter.

So after posting this I was going to be busy so I dropped it off at the local shop to have them adjust the shift linkage. Basically since they said it would only be a half hour it was worth the money to me. They did say that they see it's stuck in 4wd, would that be something that would limit the top end speed to be that low?

Likely..yes. Some have a limiter when in 4wd and others..like mine have(or had) a limiter when in 4wd and in diff-loc.

Ok great. That's good to know. I'm on vacation now but when I get back I'll need to dive into what's going on with the 4x4. I did try switching it on the fly so I'll start by looking at the rack gear. Before taking it to the shop, I did take it for a spin and from what I remembered it was topping out at 5100 or 5600 rpm. I don't recall what it normally went to but have heard these engines power band is over 7k.

Then also check for water in the fuel filter.

So after posting this I was going to be busy so I dropped it off at the local shop to have them adjust the shift linkage. Basically since they said it would only be a half hour it was worth the money to me. They did say that they see it's stuck in 4wd, would that be something that would limit the top end speed to be that low?

Sounds like several things are afoot here but let's address the speed first. You said this happened right after hitting some water so first start up front and check all the connectors especially the ECU. Then check the fuel pressure compared to what the manual states and check the tank check valve. Also check the battery voltage while off and sitting a while -v- running. Should be 12.4-12.8 sitting and 13.7-14.5+- while running.

Thank you for the reply. I was just watching about deleting the evap canister so I'll try to look at the check valve as well as the connectors. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but should be able to rent one.

As far as this happening right after hitting water I can't say it was immediately after, I was more just listing things that may impact what's going on. I don't really know when it started happening besides shortly after refilling the fuel. The terrain had a lot of corners so it could've been happening for awhile before noticing since it runs fine below 18, I probably wouldn't have noticed it.

I recently bought a 2018 CF500HO with low hours and miles. My first time taking it to real trails after riding for half the day it starting having an issue reaching top speed. The engine starts and idles fine and seems to rev fine. The machine accelerates but will not go above 11 mph in low and 18 mph in high (or close to those speeds-this was back in November).

This happened after I refilled and also went though a mud puddle (not that deep don't think it even got to my shoes). When I brought it home I assumed it was bad gas so I switched it out and the same thing. I took off the clutch cover and it wasn't muddy or anything. A little bit of dust but in my inexperienced opinion not much. I started it to see if the one way bearing was bad and all though the secondary was spinning I later learned that it will until the idle settles down so I warned it up and looked at it and the clutch did stop spinning when the rpm's settled down.

I didn't notice anything else that looked weird but after I washed it up and drove around trying to figure out what is wrong I did notice a rattling noise, the best way to describe it is similar to when a heat shield of a car is rattling just very faint and only on acceleration. Could be something in my compartments though but doubt it.

The only other details I have is the shifter needed adjusted since I got it. Very hard to switch gears and usually doesn't light up the gear you're in unless you get lucky. Lastly my friend also told me I could switch 4x4 on the fly so I did that but now learned it needs to be stopped. It wasn't (and still isn't) always engaging but it will occasionally.

Any ideas what I should check out for the limited top speed?