Strange, when the Gen2 Trail 800 was introduced there were only two variants - one for the US and the other for the rest of the world including Canada.  From the research I did at the time on mine I was left with the impression that the only difference in the two was the "world" version included the eBrake, horn, turn signals, etc.  A fellow owner in Spain confirmed that when we compared his to mine.  So I'm wondering if you got a US version (CF800-SZ-2) instead of the world version (CF800-SU-2).

Truly disappointed in CF over the Canadian lack of ebrake. I have been able to look at previous machines and the 2026 from front to back and every single location for a ebrake is in place on my machine so their BS of it not fitting is false. Instead they are willing to do a TSB on the trans with 11 hours of labor. Looking at what would be involved in installing a factory ebrake would be less cost and make the customer happy. Heck i would be happy if they just gave me the parts and i did the install.  They will not even respond to me now after several emails that they would just forward to the selling dealer to deal with, what is the dealer going to do if CFmoto will not help them. Sent them a email stating i did not want to hear from the dealer as i could just drive over their and talk to them that i wanted a resolution from them especially since the kit is available in the US.

Has any one tried this on the Zforce 950-4? I don't see any amber in my headlights. It seems like all the same plugs are there.

Check the model number of your 950-4.  If it's CF1000SU-3/CF1000SZ-3 or CF1000SU-3A/CF1000sz-3A/CF1000UTR-6 then it should work as all these share the same wire harness with the 800 Trail CF800SZ-2/CF800SU-2.

If the Zforce is anything like most "modern" vehicles, the ECU gets reset when it looses battery power.  In a reset state it doesn't have enough data to report data required by the Government for monitoring "environmental impact", plus it doesn't have any historical data to properly set some of the parameters used by the EFI.  The unit may just need to be run and driven for some period of time to collect enough data to provide a history so it can do a better job of computer control of the engine parameters.

For on-road vehicles there is a really convoluted process one can follow that speeds up the process of collecting data in the ECU, but the simplest thing is to drive it for about 100 miles at various speeds and conditions.

Finding an ECU programming tool that doesn't cost an arm-and-a-leg seems impossible. Many ECUs are locked down so they can't be manipulated except with manufacturer approved equipment.  So some of the ECU tools being sold may not actually allow one to read/write the map in the ECU.  The Dimsport (MyGenius) does work with some, maybe all, CFMotos.  But it's really quirky - it locks itself to the initial VIN its used on AND it requires a license file registered with a Master unit typically held by the supplier.  So those units you see labeled for "Personal ECU programming" are really slaves and without the license key are worthless.  Also breaking the VIN lock typically requires getting a new license key from the Master.  Many places (like eBay) are selling these but have no way of providing a license key, so buyer beware!

MSC actually sells a package for some CFMotos that includes an unlocked, licensed Dimsport with an updated ECU map file that you can install yourself.  But they're not inexpensive! Atvflashing.com will reflash your ECU for a more reasonable price but you have to send them your ECU or one that can be flashed which fits your unit.  Finding an inexpensive spare ECU that will work can be difficult but may be possible shopping on AliExpress.  There's also an outfit in Italy (oldskulltuning) that will sell you an inexpensive map file and a SW tool for adjusting parameters in it, but you need an ECU programmer to load the modified file.

One downside of remapping the only ECU you have is that if you ever take the unit into a dealer for work they may reload your ECU wiping out all your changes.  So it could be a good idea to have your own reprogramming  capability and save your files for reflashing, or have a spare ECU handy.

If anyone has a source for where to get an ECU programmer that works with CFMoto that is fairly inexpensive it would be helpful if they'd post their findings and recommendations here!

Last note about limiting speed:  I once bought a small 4-wheeler for my young children.  It came with a restrictor plate installed between the carb and the intake ports.  It was intended to be removed when the kids gained experience.  Simple thing to do unless you're dealing with fuel injection. :-)

Sounds good. The OE tires weren't that good anyway and I hear the Terrabites are a decent tire.

It was a bit of a toss-up for me between the Terrabites and the Pro Armor Dual Threat.  The Terrabites are 8 ply and the Pro Armor are 10 ply but 3 ply sidewalls.  (Couldn't find anything definitive on the number of sidewall plys in the Terrabites, but some said they thought they use 8 ply there too.) Both got good reviews and almost nothing negative said about either. The Pros were about $10 more per tire, but in the end the larger number of positive reviews on the Tusks made the decision for me. Plus, not that it matters to me, the Tusks are DOT rated and the Pros aren't.

Looks like I'm upgrading tires.  Last week one of my original CFMoto tires suffered a sidewall tread separation.  Luckily we were close enough to a trailhead to get my Jeep and trailer up to the UTV.  Unfortunately the nearest open tire shop couldn't do much more than sell me a new trailer tire of the same size and mount it, so that saved the day for our week's riding.  (I needed a spare for my trailer and it just happens to be the same size though!)  Now that I'm home I've ordered a new set of Tusk Terrabites (26x9x14 and 26x11x14).  Got a friend who lives on a ranch and has a full set of tire equipment for maintaining his CFMoto, tractor and car tires, so I'll be visiting him when the new tires arrive. 

This all reminds me of the fighting that took place back in the 60's over the building of the Trans Alaska Pipeline.  Many then, and probably many now, wanted to believe it was being pushed into construction by the "greedy oil companies".  But that wasn't true.  They didn't really get involved in the fight at all and their position was "the oil has been in the ground for millions of years.  It can stay there until the public demands that it be made available and pressure their elected leaders to change the rules and regulations so that can happen."  And that's pretty much exactly what happened.

The same sort of thing will happen with the Chinese imports of their products.  When the public here gets fed up with what is available to buy and the prices being asked for those products, they will demand changes.  With respect to ATVs and UTVs we're behind where the EU is right now as they can't import a lot of the different types of units that we can for now.  So maybe the public uprising on this issue will get started in the EU before coming to our shores.

If the North American market (mainly US and Canada) is large enough then CFMoto will put a factory in Mexico using NAFTA to bypass the restrictions.  The Chinese auto manufacturers are already doing this.  But it will be an interesting political/economic battle to watch in the years to come.

Don't know if the Normal/Sport mode is the same on the Touring 1000 as it is on the Gen2 Trail 800, but it seems backwards to me.  According to the manual on my Trail 800 it seems the Sport mode should be used most of the time (on trails and such) and Normal mode is to be used when traveling on highways.  From the way I read it the Sport mode gives better throttle response.

Been waiting on parts from the dealer in Tucson since June to get the E-break installed on my 23 while it's still under warranty.  They keep saying middle of next month every month since June

Someone's yank'n your chain as most everyone else already has their kits. I would press them harder and call CFM and report this dealer.

I went thru this on my Trail 800 and what I learned is that warranty work has to be authorized by CFMoto before most dealers will order the parts and do the work.  Otherwise there's no assurance that they'll get paid for the parts and work performed.  CFMoto didn't get all the VINs entered into their database which is accessed by the dealers though, so there are some VINs that qualify for the warranty upgrade but aren't in the system.  If you call CFMoto they'll tell you this, but they will also tell you they can't enter your VIN into the system, the dealer has to do that.

So try speaking with the Service Manger at your dealership. Take a copy of the warranty notice in case he/she isn't aware of this upgrade, although they most likely are.  Ask them to pull up your VIN in the CFMoto database to see if it's listed for the upgrade, and if not ask them to get it entered for you.  If they give you the run-around and say they can't do that or that you have to call CFMoto, insist on making that call jointly.

If the dealer is fully aware of the upgrade then regardless of the status of the VIN in the database they should be able to fix it by entering your VIN and then ordering the parts.  That's what the dealer who does my service finally did for me.  Another option is to try a different dealer.  The one who does my service isn't the one who sold me my Trail 800.

Owners of a lot of UTVs from different manufacturers have similar complaints about cab heat and excessive engine heat.  It appears that the manufacturers are tuning the engines to run very hot and lean to meet EPA or some other government mandates.  Many have found that by reprogramming the ECU the heat can be dropped significantly while at the same time getting a bit more performance out of the UTV.  (Possibly removing or changed some of the limits on the engine as well.)  There are a couple of companies that can do this for the ECU's used on the CFMoto both here and in Europe (where they apparently have even more restrictions placed on the vehicle's ECU).  It requires removing the ECU and sending it to them for reprogramming.  Or you can try and find a replacement ECU and have them reprogram that one.  CFMoto charges an arm and a leg for an ECU, but there are a number of much less expensive ones to be found on eBay or AliExpress.  Be careful of the Chinese ones as some reprogrammers have had trouble with them and have bricked them.  I suspect, but don't know for sure, that any replacement must have the same computer board and match the first 7 characters of the ECU ID (the last three characters probably refer to the progamming in the ECU).

http://www.atvflashing.com appears to have a lot of experience doing this and Ray, the guy there, is very responsive to e-mails.

I'd be a little careful about jumpers and such...that's how fires get started sometimes...especially on these Chinese machines. Need a wiring diagram to study first.

Second that! I'd be very careful installing jumpers.  I always try to trace out the wiring first with a voltmeter and multimeter.  Unfortunately the wiring diagram in the shop manual isn't very helpful.  It's on a fold-out sheet that's only A3 size (11"x17").  I've tried blowing it up but the resolution of the original is so low everything just comes out fuzzy.  There do appear to be color codes on the drawing - if you can read them with a magnifying glass.

Thanks for the ad tips. I access the forum primarily on my IPAD and IPHONE now. I'll have to look into your cache clearing suggestions on those. I know how to clear all on my Win desktop. Haven't had to do it on my Apple devices until now.
10-4 on the install locations. I'll take ur advice on that.
Thanks.

Go to your Browser settings, then Privacy and Security. Clear everything that's clear-able. If the history isn't in there go to history and clear-all.

Or just trash the apple junk that should fix it. j/k....

Have always used Apple Mac at home since I supported Windows at work.  Was very surprised to see someone complaining about the Ads on this forum as I've NEVER seen any.  But then I do have AdBlocker installed.  I also sometimes browse this forum with Linux and BSD systems and don't recall seeing any Ads and on those systems I don't have any Ad filtering SW installed (yet).

You're right, the flasher module plug under the dash is black, not grey.  I did the write-up from memory after I had everything working, so I missed a few details like that.  I've updated the instructions and will upload a newer version of the document.

I don't recall if the front lights flash fast when the rear lights aren't connected, but that wouldn't surprise me as the flasher isn't getting a full resistive load with only half the lights connected.

The plug in trailer harness was a bust. No feed for left or right turn signals. I didn't test for brake light but it did have power for running lights. So I tried tracking down that junction for the reverse/turn signal connectors on left rear. I took off the fender flares as well as another plastic guard under there that helps protect gas tank. I could not locate any kind of wires for rear lighting. I ended up stopping for the night and figured I would ask for help.

Any tips or clues on how to find those connectors? It seems like that's what I will end up doing. I have little 3.7" x .7" red LED fixtures that I plan on using. I just need to get a feed I can use. They are small enough that I can mount them easily just about anywhere. And if I can just find the rear connector, I'm sure I can figure out the mating connector to plug in to it. I am really trying to avoid running new wires from the front all the way to the back of I don't have to.

If you're looking for the 4-pin connectors between the vehicle wire harness and the real light assemblies they're located on top and behind the rear right quarter panel.  You should see one connection there that's the factory setup for brake, tail and backup lights already connected.  The other connector is taped back into the vehicle wire harness about 6" from the end.  You have to remove the black tape securing it to the wire harness to locate it.  There should be a "bump" in the wire harness where the connector is, and if memory serves, they connectors are white in color.