Thanks for the replies!

These are very solid bars.

glenlivet this is a terrific mod!

I used a sheet of embossed aluminum heat exhaust shield & aluminum tape to make your box.
I also added a filter to the intake cover.  I originally used a Harley Davidson mushroom filter but it was too thick;
It was restricting the air flow to the motor.  I ended up using a filter for an AC window unit. 

I purchased a set of  Heavy Duty Side Steps Nerf Bars For 14-23 Polaris RZR XP 1000/RZR 900 XC from ebay for $29.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284714903295

I cut off the part that attached the bars to the vehicle and made my own attachments from some 1" rolled steel pipe and 2" angle iron.
I also cut off 3/4" from the curved piece on the top of each bar.

I repainted them with Rust-Oleum spay on Bed Liner.

The bars cost  $70 instead of $300.

A Kawasaki 2020 Teryx Damper Steering Tilt 92161-2186
will fit a 2020 CFMOTO ZForce 800 with very little modification.

You can either replace the handle with your old one or you can grind down the new one.
It is a little too wide. I also passed a 5/16 drill bit through the eye hole.

I added 2 stainless steel washers on each side to the bottom eye hole.

It works great!  My steering wheel no longer drifts upward...

I paid $21.95 for this new shock on ebay.
It is listed at $26.95 but you can make an offer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/395218884189?itmmeta=01HT0B7JVTB6RAHXBR0D3RCYKN&hash=item5c04e1965d:g:6csAAOSwaKVl11SE&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAKuhTU3fIxL%2FObW6MjU0%2FbNS1%2FdABWOO8eSG3MDDzWDO9TwWxt2RujaaWOBIUUNcf77LjK031d7km2Uard%2FP3JFp8YrMAou0qkYBSGZQlEKmVgj8Jmi8sVFQJDqj19o1L9XY2oq1OmoLxravVHi0UtahS3Da0Sij%2FylFd6lPi6FdrnpaKp3Q027%2BKgsIPGiwGvvxlvT3Gvtxh6%2Funi%2BPRi%2FtEE6toFXWAdxVOQ4pGdCsaO5cQ3jS%2F6IcA6evXRJaucB0IE6nBQrS2qNG0d1luMamsQGrxW23czSqjArk13xuI4hHWRmgm77t%2FL8lQKnsFfMUKa0v3vbP995gXW5SDZo%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMgq6ei9Bj

I purchased a used broken & damaged ZForce 800 last September. I've had to take the motor apart twice due to transmission and drive bezel gears being busted from misuse.

It's not that hard to rebuild the engine. It is a pain to get the motor out due to having to take the cab and rear plastics off.

All parts are available via ebay or aliexpress.

I have a service manual if you need it.

I thought about grinding the anti-slip pattern off but I decided against it when I saw a company selling a 3/4" HPDE Skid Plate.

If they do cause me to hang up, I will grind them down.

Thanks  NMKawierider!

A picture of it installed.

I finally cut it out and drilled all of the holes in it!

I decided to stay with the stock pattern.

I went to Mike & Jerry's, one of the local automotive paint store's in my area.
The attached photos are contain the code for what they said is the closest match for CFMOTO Crystal Orange Paint.

It starts out with Mazda Spicy Orange 25T & then I believe he said you add 5 different pearl coats to it.

I purchased a sheet of HPDE 1/2"x36"x96" to upgrade the stock Skid Plate.
I paid $150 for the sheet.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/857280062815110/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A2f50cfb2-0d6f-40ca-ad10-08389845f6d5

They have warehouses all over the country.

I will post more pics of it as I get it cut out and ready to install.

It will look similiar to this one on ebay but I plan on doing extension in the front and rear under the differentials.

I used a 36mm socket and notched it.

You can't get the retainer off without it.

You remove the engine output shaft from the #1 cyclinder/head side of the engine.

The bearing retainer is a LH threaded retainer that requires a special tool.

I found the problem....

I have tried both and it is the same.

It shifts, moves, & drives without any problems.

You can just hear a clicking sound it it...

I am hearing clicking while not moving. You can tell it happens only once every revolution.

I took off the secondary drive clutch and turned it clockwise with the nut and a 1/2" drive impact to make sure that it wasn't the dry clutches or the motor making the noise.