Is it possible to replace the chinesium relays with something more robust?
Are there readily availaible quality parts?
First that comes to mind is the fan relay, as i live in a very hot climate.
Any others?

EU overlands and cforce1000 in general come with lsd on the rear OR manual locking diff like the front but NO solid axle like the us.
Mine is a 2023 model cforce 1000 and it has an lsd on the rear diff. I must admit its a bit annoying.
Attached is a no diff diagram and the clutch pack/lsd diff.

I might convert mine to a solid axle like the US spec.
Swapping the clutch pack for the 21 numbered part that bolts on the ring gear is the only difference as far as i can tell from the part numbers.

You should be able to do that. Funny..many here in the US wish they could have a limited slip or locker like the EU has.

I am considering doing the swap and the selling the lsd part, it goes for about 1000usd (new) !!
Anyone knows if after swapping the two parts i need to reshim the diff?
I've got no idea where to measure backlash on these diffs, cant measure on the ring teeth as on car diffs.
I wont touch the pinion gear so only backlash might be aproblem, but i have to get right other wise i'll blow the diff for sure.

@NMKawierider and everyone.

I want to delete the evap canister it catches all the mud, one screw is stripped and it is rattling.

Ok so from the top of the tank there is a line going to a check valve (passive no wires), then to the evap canister, then to another check valve that is wired, and then finally to the throttle body.

I will keep only the first check valve and route the line somewhere high.

What's the purpose of the first check valve? Let air in? Let air out? In theory it should do both. Can-ams have two check valves one blue and one red, one lets air in and the other lets air escape if the tank is under pressure (e.g. sunny day).
I tried blowing into the valve with my mouth (force air into the tank), i couldn't. Tomorrow i will try with the air compressor from both sides.
After a ride when i open the gas cap there's a woosh, air is rushing out, so there is pressure inside the tank.

Do i keep the valve, or not? Do i put a filter on the end of the line? what kind of filter?
What about the second check valve, the one that is wired, what is its purpose? Do i remove it altogether or do i keep it plugged in?

Thanks.

On the older ones like mine, it has a check valve built into the tank that only lets air in as the pump takes fuel out. When heated or shaken pressure builds but it's only a couple of Ozs although from the feel it acts like much more. I do not know how they vent the new ones and not sure on the evap can and how it works but...its is supposed to take gas fumes and through an EGR valve, it pulled them in from being collected in the canister. That EGR valve is electric and on the intake. I have to assume that new first tank check valve must be pressure sensitive so that pressure will send the fumes/vapor to the can. I would not put compressed air on it as it could damage it...but maybe it's not the type you want anyway. On mine the builtin check stuck open and let gas run up the vent and into the frame where they stuck the end. I put an inline check valve and fuel filter on it and put a loop high on the frame. I have a how-to in the how-to section on that.
I would leave the wires on the other valve(s) and just cap them well because anything else would likely cause an error code to come up on the dash.

Ok, so i was blowing in the wrong hose...
After i removed the rear fender, i found the correct hose. The valve is a two way valve that has some resistance but i can blow air in and out. When blowing air out there is a little more resistance, i guess in order to block gas from leaking out in case of a roll over.
Deleted the evap junk, capped the throttle body and the solenoid valve, and i put a small gas filter on the end of the line resting below the seat.
Everything as it should be now.

[lift/pull up]

@NMKawierider and everyone.

I have some hard starting issues when cold and some chattering/ metallic pinging from the front cylinder, i can hear it with the old "stethoscope" long screwdriver trick, it comes from the head (disappears when it heats up), back cylinder is silent.
What's the proper way to adjust the valves?
When at compression tdc the rocker arms have some play, they wiggle. Are you supposed to lift/pull up the rocker arms and then insert the feeler?
Some say that when you insert the feeler gauge, the rocker arm will raise to its maximum point towards the cam.
I found that NOT to be the case, first time i did the valves i didn't pull on the rocker arms, i just inserted the feeler gauge and adjusted until it was catching. After reassembly the valvetrain was noisy.
When i repeated the process i pulled on the arm and this time the feeler gauge slid out without catching, so there is definitely a difference.

So what's the proper way?

Bonus: how the heck do i go about doing the front cylinder? I can't see the exhaust valves (especially the left one), i go by feel only (i have a feeling that's why the front cylinder is acting up). Any tricks?

On mine I pull the seats and the back plastics to get to the front cylinder. Makes it easy. I have set mine several times and have not run into what you are talking about having to lift-up the rocker but..if they still makes them the same way, there is a roller on the can side that holds oil under it and in the pin that might need some help getting out of the way. The rocker itself should move freely and if not there is binding on the shaft. Always set dead cold and in the middle of the range..and just a pro-trick- back the lock nut well off, insert your feeler gauge and tighten the adjuster down on the feeler with your fingers fairly hard. with the size of the adjuster and oil on it you can not put enough pressure on it to push the valve down. Once set hold it with whatever it needs then tighten the lock/jam nut. Then check the resistance. You will fine the act of locking it has reduced the drag a little. That's OK as long as it still had enough.  Once all are done and checked on that cylinder cap it up and go to the other and find it's TDC on its compression stroke and do it all over again.

One thing you might want to check is how the rollers re working. Mine had one that was locked and just dragging up and down on the cam lobe. Back the adjusted way off and spin the rollers by hand. They should roll smooth and free and no weird marks on their surface of the cam's.   

Thanks for the reply,
Checked the rollers and cams, all ok
Almost all valves were tight, exhaust more than intake.
What i did is i adjusted with the correct size gauge and the n made sure that the nest size didn't fit and "catched" the same, super consistent with this method and easier, i didn't lift the rockers.
All noises dissapeared and starts without any troubles.

@NMKawierider and everyone.

I want to delete the evap canister it catches all the mud, one screw is stripped and it is rattling.

Ok so from the top of the tank there is a line going to a check valve (passive no wires), then to the evap canister, then to another check valve that is wired, and then finally to the throttle body.

I will keep only the first check valve and route the line somewhere high.

What's the purpose of the first check valve? Let air in? Let air out? In theory it should do both. Can-ams have two check valves one blue and one red, one lets air in and the other lets air escape if the tank is under pressure (e.g. sunny day).
I tried blowing into the valve with my mouth (force air into the tank), i couldn't. Tomorrow i will try with the air compressor from both sides.
After a ride when i open the gas cap there's a woosh, air is rushing out, so there is pressure inside the tank.

Do i keep the valve, or not? Do i put a filter on the end of the line? what kind of filter?
What about the second check valve, the one that is wired, what is its purpose? Do i remove it altogether or do i keep it plugged in?

Thanks.

[lift/pull up]

@NMKawierider and everyone.

I have some hard starting issues when cold and some chattering/ metallic pinging from the front cylinder, i can hear it with the old "stethoscope" long screwdriver trick, it comes from the head (disappears when it heats up), back cylinder is silent.
What's the proper way to adjust the valves?
When at compression tdc the rocker arms have some play, they wiggle. Are you supposed to lift/pull up the rocker arms and then insert the feeler?
Some say that when you insert the feeler gauge, the rocker arm will raise to its maximum point towards the cam.
I found that NOT to be the case, first time i did the valves i didn't pull on the rocker arms, i just inserted the feeler gauge and adjusted until it was catching. After reassembly the valvetrain was noisy.
When i repeated the process i pulled on the arm and this time the feeler gauge slid out without catching, so there is definitely a difference.

So what's the proper way?

Bonus: how the heck do i go about doing the front cylinder? I can't see the exhaust valves (especially the left one), i go by feel only (i have a feeling that's why the front cylinder is acting up). Any tricks?

I removed the flares after getting the machine from the dealer, it looks ugly with them on, i couldnt see the wheels plus it makes the machine seem wider than it is.
I carefully pried out the plastic rivets leaving no marks.
You can get oem replacements for next to nothing, i would do that if i where you, i like their look.

I use Total 10W-50.
Recommended by cfmoto.

The 50 comes into play at high ambient temps.
This month the temps were out of control, 44C/112F in shade, 60+ on the road/trails.
We were on vacation, we did 700kms, rode the machine everyday, fully loaded 2up, pretty hard on pavement and trails, the fan was at full tilt constantly, the machine never over heated, 4 bars for a few seconds then 3. On one uphill trail low gear low speed again fully loaded it could not cool down to 3 bars, it held 4 bars on the gauge and, i swear, you could cook something with the heat that the machine was giving of.

When i got back the valves sounded a bit off, they were noisy, not clicky but noisy. (never done them prior, skipped them at first service).
I did a full service and inspection (1000kms on the odo), all fluids (except coolant) and valve adjustment (front cylinder is a major PITA btw).
Oil had become a bit brown, viscosity was good.
The machine is back at perfect working order, checked all bolts nothing loose.

Oil is cheap, if you ride the machine hard, change the oil more often.

Being EFI that is controlled by the ECU through to the idle air control valve...and that is one thing CFM has had more then it's fair share of problems with. It also gets sticky with incoming particles and oil from foam filters that were over-oiled. That fix is easy-blast one carb cleaner through the intake port or pull it and manually clean it. A bad one...is a problem because some can't be bought separate from the throttle body...at least here in the US they have a problem doing that.

Thanks,
Where is this valve located?
From your experience would you say 1450 is high or normal?

The Z1000 says it idles at 1300 +-130 so it can idle at 1430..which I think is too high...(I think anything over 900 is too high) but the fact that it starts higher and works down says its possible the valve is sticking or slow reacting. Its on the throttle body.

Gotcha, thanks

Being EFI that is controlled by the ECU through to the idle air control valve...and that is one thing CFM has had more then it's fair share of problems with. It also gets sticky with incoming particles and oil from foam filters that were over-oiled. That fix is easy-blast one carb cleaner through the intake port or pull it and manually clean it. A bad one...is a problem because some can't be bought separate from the throttle body...at least here in the US they have a problem doing that.

Thanks,
Where is this valve located?
From your experience would you say 1450 is high or normal?

The rad fan plays a big role too. When it kicks in it burns my feet.

I'll try wrapping the front header( which is naked as opposed to the rest of the exhaust pipe which has heat shields)

Manual states if I recall correctly 1350 +- something small.

On my machine cold startup is 1600 then it gradually lowers to 1450 where it stays when it is up to temp.

What's your machine's idle rpm?

Read somewhere in the manual idle rpm check and adjust.

Is there an adjustment on these machines for idle rpm? I thought it is entirely dependent on the ecu.

My dealer has it, they wont give it to me, they treat it like it's some sort of state secret. 

I found an old service manual for the 2018 cforce 1000 floating on the internet. Some things are the same, some are not.

I need to find a specific wire that goes from the eps controller to the ecu , might be different on my machine.

Anyone knows where i can purchase a copy?

2023 CF1000AU-F

1000 Overland 2023(EU)
I noticed this exact thing the other day.
4WD plus diff lock and I couldn't move the steering.
Took the diff lock off and everything fine.
I hardly ever use the diff lock and just put it down to one of those things, but now I wonder...

I use diff lock all the time, having no pwer steering sucks.
Apparently if you pull a wire from the ecu, eps will be at 100% all the time. Now that's not good, having eps 100% power at speed might cause the machine to flip, or excessive use while on diff lock might wear the eps motor out.
I plan on putting a switch on the wire, when i need eps at 100% for a brief time, (stuck while in diff lock mode) flip the switch turn the wheels. Also i plan to have a push and release type of switch like the override one. In fact i might repurpose the override switch. 

I have a 2023 1000 Overland and my dealer said bring it in for first service after 1000km.

Looking at the user manual it says 320km or 20 hours - I'm now on 330km so I'd better go and have a word with them.
I've printed out pages 123 and 124 of the user manual which detail the service items for first break-in maintenance.
I'll be taking this along to the dealer to get him to do all of these items.

You've got to get rid of the old fluids, dealer doesn't know what hes talking about.The quicker the better, i did mine at 200km 10 hours or so after breaking in the machine. Do not baby it it needs full throttle at the end of the break in period.

Make sure your dealer works with atvs, most dealers here in Greece think atv's are motocycles or cars, when i first got my machine the tires where inflated to 35 psi!!!

They didn't have a clue about what had to be done on the first service. Because of warranty i had to go there and told them to change all the fluids. They ended up reusing the plug washers on the diffs and engine which resulted to leaking.
I ended up redoing all the fluids myself. First service the manual calls for valve adjustment. I did not trust my machine to them, ill do it by myself.

Make sure your dealer knows his stuff.