Ive tightened my '15's fuel pump and added the one way valve and the fuel smell is still present.

anyone that has modded your exhaust experiencing extreme fumes in the cab? I only eliminated the factory "kitty" from my muffler. Since then the exhaust seems to be very "rich" and is causing issues for passengers and anyone that rides behind it. made the wife so sick in the passenger seat she was vomiting. I see one person below had a similar issue.

Side note, Ive added an aftermarket one way valve on the fuel tank vent line AND tightened the fuel pump lock ring but it still smells like fuel also.

Im not sure if this is all one problem or two separate issues at this point but kids are refusing to ride double in it until I get it sorted out.

Was pulling the steering knuckles/spindles off the '15 zforce today to replace some worn wheel bearings and figured I would go ahead and reinforce the steering arm while I was at it. I only got one completed before it started getting late so the other side will have to wait another day. I added a gusset under the arm and one to the bend of the arm. I used flux core .30 wire and a 110v welder. I'm not a pro so use caution if you do yours.

Six year old nephew battling a rare form of cancer and needs prayers (good thoughts, positive energy, etc.). He is getting treated at St. Jude which is a huge blessing! Unfortunately his mom and dad will be out of work for 7 months to be by his side (St. Jude is 12 hours from home). As can be expected, they both want to be with him the entire time.

Info below if anyone is interested in providing prayers or assistance. Thank you for reading this.

https://www.caringbridge.org/visit/masoncartermoore

https://www.gofundme.com/f/fhrayu-fighting-for-mason?utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1&utm_content=undefined&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_source=customer&utm_term=undefined

Thanks NMK! Hopefully it'll help some folks. I feel the extra durability is worth the effort, especially if you are running spacers.

I created and added a How-To in the how-to section for upgrading the 10mm wheel studs to 12mm if anyone is interested. I used a Dorman part number that fits Honda vehicles from 1980 - 2020 so parts are easily found and they increase the strength a great deal. The swap takes a little time but I believe it will be well worth the effort! Enjoy.

Here is the link to it.

https://cfmoto-forum.com/how-to's/how-to-wheel-stud-upgrade-zforce-800/msg49228/#msg49228

I was in the process of upgrading my wheel studs and thought I'd take a few pics and provide the info for anyone else that may want the extra piece of mind of having larger wheel studs. Parts list at the bottom.

First off, my 2015 800 EX came stock with 10mm wheel studs. While they may be fine for easy riding, they are pretty much the same size that is on most ATV's and I felt that I would rather have the extra strength of something better. Especially since we ride some pretty rough stuff sometimes. Secondly, I was adding wheel spacers and wanted/needed studs that were a bit longer so I could use all of the threads in the spacer mounting nuts, again for more strength.

Disclaimer: Obviously this is not a complete How-To: please use caution when working on your machine and make repairs at your own risk / and within your abilities.

Once you machine is jacked up and the wheel is off, you must remove the cotter pin that holds the axle nut on. I cut mine with a grinding disc and tapped them out with a hammer and small punch. You should use new ones anyhow. once the cotter pin is out, remove the axle nut (36mm socket) or large wrench.




Next you will need to remove the two bolts that hold the caliper on. The rears are an 8mm hex head. The front hubs have two 13mm bolts. As you can see one of mine, and likely yours, is full of mud. Clean the heads out with a pick or air before trying to remove them. You do not want to strip the heads out due to pour penetration of your hex tool!




Tip: on the rear hubs, you need to remove the lower spindle mounting bolt (15mm head and nut) so you can pull the spindle away from the machine some to get the lower caliper mounting bolt out. This extra step will save you some grief.



Once the spindle mounting bolt was out, I stuck a pry bar handle between the spindle and the control arm so I could free up my hands to remove the caliper bolts. I just laid my caliper on top of the upper control arm, however it is best to tie it up so it don't fall down and damage your brake line.



With the caliper out of the way you can now pull the hub off with the brake disc.



Once it is off, you will need to remove the 4 hex heads (6mm) that hold the brake disc on the hub. Same with the caliper bolts, clean the heads out first.



With the brake disc out of the way, you can now remove the old studs from the hub. This can be done several ways, either using a large C clamp and sockets, using a "front end service kit" for vehicles, a press or you can place the hub an a solid surface and tap them out with a hammer. I used a brass hammer so I can save the studs for use on other projects (we have several ATV's). BE CAREFUL not to hit and/or damage the "ears" on the hub if you use a hammer!





Once the studs are removed, you will need to drill out the stud mounting holes slightly. The new studs have a slightly larger knurled area and needs some clearance to go in. The studs I chose have a knurled area that measured around 12.2mm. I drilled the holes out with a 15/32 drill bit that measured 11.8mm and this worked perfect.

I used a drill press and went slow. This can be done with a hand drill if you are very careful to keep your drill straight. I also suggest using a good bit and some "cutting oil" while drilling.



Once all four holes are drilled out, the new studs can be installed. I used a press to put mine in, but this could also be done by the methods mentioned earlier (C-clamp and sockets, front end service kit which can be "rented" for free at most chain auto parts stores).





Once all four are installed, clean the hub good to insure there are no metal shavings in the axle spline area before beginning reassembly.

Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly procedure. As you can see, the new studs are beefier than the stock ones.




DON'T FORGET TO INSTALL A NEW COTTER PIN!

The studs I used to replace mine were M12x1.5 that fit Honda vehicles from 1980 - 2020 and are rated 10.9 so they are a significant improvement. The manufacturer is Dorman and there are several part numbers depending on whether you want one, 10, or 40 of them. Another advantage to this if you were ever to damage or break one, you could walk into an auto parts store and buy a stud for a "Honda Accord" and be back on the trails sooner.

1 - 610-269.1
10 - 610.269
40 - 610-269.40

The lug nuts I used were from amazon and are just standard m12x1.5 acorn lug nuts. i think 20 of them were under $20.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2FCAGY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I recently bought a '15 Z800 and read quite a bit about the thermo fan switches failing. Being that I have little background on my machine and the seller said it "ran hot" once, I wanted to find a replacement that may be more reliable. I located this part number:

Beck-Arnley: 201-1611

It fits a 89-91 Geo Metro with 1.0L engine.

This replacement is the same size, same connector. On at 203, off at 185.

I have been turning wrenches since early high school and I am in my 50's, and I have never ever ever dealt with push pin retainers as hateful as these on a CFMoto. For Gods sake, they rarely come out easy and are nearly as  mean going back in. If I didn't know better I'd swear CF put some kind of retaining compound on them but I haven't seen any evidence beyond the broken ones, busted knuckles, and the occasional ugly words flying about!

Can you disconnect the diff from the frame and move it over far enough to get at the bolt?

This is what I was thinking as well. May be a little extra work but a lot less aggravation in the end

I have not bought any yet but was just looking at wheels 2 nights ago on Ebay and saw RokTrix (sp?) to be the best deal out there it seems. Maybe it is a new brand. seems the new wheel or tire brands start out cheaper until they get some recognition. might be worth a look. IIRC it was 4 14x7 (4/110) for $350'ish with free shipping.

Exhaust "donut" gasket, :
exhaust donut gasket just before the muffler is part number 7030-021002, "Collar, Big". It can be substituted with a Polaris part number 3610047. Verified that the two parts have the same diameter inside and out for a 2015 Zforce 800. This part number can be purchased aftermarket for a fraction of Polaris OEM pricing, but more importantly, it can be had quickly.

Awesome! Thank you

NMK,

I'm a pretty new member and owner of a used '15 Z800. I wish I'd seen this before I change the oil in it last week for the first time.

Any chance we could start a sticky on confirmed alternative parts for the Z's? I posted a donut gasket that definitely works, the oil filters could be included along with your warning / info here so folks can proceed with caution. I recently saw on another board I joined, some parts store axles that fit also. I thought it might be useful. Sometimes using alternative parts is about getting better quality, sometimes saving a buck, and others it boils down to availability. Anyhow, thanks to your dedication to these machines. This forum has already been a wealth of info!

I have to agree here! I just put Rotella T6 synthetic 5w-40 in my 2015 800. Mine has the wet clutch so its very important to use an oil that has the JASO M rating on it which indicates it does not have, or has much less, of the friction modifiers in it. I easily found it in 15w-40 and 5w-40 by the gallon and it was significantly less than buying 4 stroke specific oil. 5w vs 15w is a personal preference. I prefer the oil to flow when cold as soon as possible.

I see the ecommended oil is SAE 10-40W.  It does not say regular or synthetic.  Just breaking in my unit and need to know what type is suggested going forward.   Live in Georgia and not an abusive rider.

Lots of different opinions on this subject. Most will stick with conventional oils for break-in period and then switch to synthetics. If you have the dry clutch setup then you don't necessarily need the motorcycle grade oil. I am using Rottela T6 5w40 in all of my toys and motorcycles. Good price and never had an issue using it for many years now.