Do you notice a difference on if the bike runs hotter with the guard on? I swear my Triumph runs hotter since I added the guard.

There was no difference in running temperature after installation.

I have installed similar guards on Kawasaki (Z900, inline 4) and Suzuki (SV650, v-twin), with no change in running temps.

There is a link to the Ali Express Seller I purchased from... in the first post on this thread.

Normal package delivery - ordered 6/15, shipped 6/15, arrived 6/23 at US Customs facility in Chicago, and delivered to my residence on 6/28.

Oops, sorry for late response. The only item I've purchased from Ali Express is the kickstand foot, arrived in 2 weeks and fit perfectly.

Other accessories I purchased from Ali Express for my previous bike (carbon fiber exhaust pipe protector and engine case covers) arrived in about 2 weeks and fit perfectly.

No, I have not. Ride is in storage for the winter.

I suspect changing pre-load will provide results like most others... a little stiffer or softer based on rider's weight, road conditions, etc. 

Galena area is the most unglaciated in Illinois.

In Wisconsin, west of Janesville in the New Glarus/Argyle area is slightly unglaciated.

Directly west of Madison all the way over to Prairie du Chien and north to La Crosse is heavily unglaciated.

Did some turkey hunting in the Richland Center area some years ago. Those hills are like mini-mountains in the Midwest. Many of the roads run on top of the ridges, very scenic.

Hanksters Motorsports / Janesville, WI

[PART 5]

PART 5

Re-install bottom main bracket that supports the radiator. Push main bracket up onto the lower radiator peg, and re-install silver bolts (ref. photo 15).

Align the right bottom guard bracket in front of lower bracket and behind the horn bracket. Re-install black bolt through horn bracket and guard bracket (ref. photo 16, 17).

Finish tightening the bracket bolts at bottom of guard, and re-install side radiator cover.

After install thoughts - the space between guard and radiator face is 3/8", top to bottom and side to side... solid with no flexing. Will there be reduced air flow affecting coolant temp? Maybe, maybe not. Will report back with results.

[PART 4]

PART 4

Center the guard in front of radiator, and push the left bottom guard bracket up onto the bottom of radiator. I noticed the bracket shelf wasn't quite flush with the bottom of radiator, so I bent it slightly for the best fit (ref. photo 11).

On the left side, push up on radiator/guard assembly and slide top guard bracket and radiator bracket onto the top frame peg (ref. photo 12).

On the right side, position only the top radiator bracket and re-install flanged sleeve. Then position top guard bracket and re-install bolt holding everything together. Instructions say 15-21 Nm / 11-15 ft-lb torque (ref. photo 13, 14).

[PART 3]

PART 3

Note - the only guard bracket that is in contact with the radiator is the bottom left side. The guard bracket on the right connects to the horn bracket.

Attach brackets to bottom of radiator guard. Tighten enough where they stay in place, and final tighten only after installation is complete (ref. photo 07, 08).

I placed some of the included self-adhesive foam on the shelf of the left guard bracket (ref. photo 09).

There are small hex head bolts holding the black frame to the aluminum honeycomb. There are thin star washers holding them on, but some were a little loose. I tightened them up with a 2.5 mm hex key wrench (ref. photo 10).

[PART 2]

PART 2

Remove bolt that holds radiator to frame, top right side (13 mm socket). There is a flanged sleeve in the rubber bushing, remove it also (ref. photo 04, 05).
 
Firm grip on radiator (away from fins), wiggle and slide it to the right, just enough to drop it off the top left peg (ref. photo 06).

[PART 1]

PART 1

Before installation, I splashed hot water on the radiator to soften up splattered bugs and carefully removed with soft tooth brush (vertical brushing only). If any fins were flattened or out of shape, I used a very thin pick to return to normal position.
   
Remove (2) bolts from side radiator cover (5 mm hex). There is an electrical junction attached to the inside of cover, slide it up and off (ref. photo 01, 02).

There is a bottom main bracket that supports the radiator, right side. Remove the black bolt that connects the horn bracket to bottom main bracket (13 mm socket). Leave horn and bracket hanging (ref. photo 03).

Remove the silver bolts (10 mm socket) and slide bottom main bracket downward and off of radiator bottom peg (ref. photo 03).

Box includes radiator guard, two lower connection brackets, nuts, bolts, and instructions. This is an excellent guard and everything lines up perfectly. This radiator guard can only be purchased through an authorized CFMOTO dealership. Price was $129.99 and a good investment, considering that a new radiator would be costly if damaged by road debris.

I did not purchase a knock-off from Ali Express, because none of them include lower brackets and hardware. Despite what some knock-offs are advertising...there are no existing holes, brackets, or bolts on this radiator to attach lower part of knock-off guard.

When I refer to Left or Right, I am viewing from the front of motorcycle.

CAUTION: The aluminum fins on radiator are very thin and very sharp (front and back, like single-edged razor blades). When installing this guard, do not allow anything to come in contact with the radiator fins. They could easily be flattened and may lessen the cooling effect of radiator.

Instructions were rather vague... following are detailed instructions with photos.

Looks like a Denali Soundbomb Mini horn would be an easy install....

They picked up the bike late Tuesday and delivered back to me the following Monday. Basically 3 days in shop.

Invoice was $343... but I negotiated "no charge" at time of purchase. They charge $115/hr. for shop labor.

The gear box/shifting - I thought it was smooth and effortless BEFORE the 600-mile break-in service. AFTER the service? Even smoother, like butter.

Not sure if it was dumping the break-in oil... or new oil with Bel-Ray EXP.

Probably the dump, but will change with Mobil-1 Racing 4T at 2000-3000 miles and see how it feels.