Yep. Got to take off rear passenger wheel to make room to pull tank out.

One thing I like though. The inlet for the CVT air intake is a tube. It goes under the center console to the hood.

It would be easy for someone to add a 3" bilge fan. If it had enough CFM inline. Then a snorkel or a hood scope 😂 and add a filter.

I got a bilge fan that pushes 320 CFM and a filter just haven't done it yet.

Thank you. No doubt that others could have done better. But I'm happy with it.

Here are some more pics.
Don't know if it's the page or the phone or maybe pic size. But something acting up.
I'll try again with resized pics.

When I placed the cardboard over the hole. I actually put tape in hole, then cardboard, then taped the cardboard in. That way the JB Weld wouldn't adhere to the cardboard. The sides of the hole was already roughed up due the the breakage of the case. Should give an excellent surface for the JB Weld to secure to. From working with JB Weld in the past. If the JB Weld is a little thick and doesn't flow like you think it should. A little acetone will thin it out. A little goes a long long way.

While applying the JB Weld to the outside of cover. It started to sink a little. Ever so slightly. I was trying to get the outside as smooth as possible. To save time on cleanup later. Guess I was working it to much.

Before things damaged anything. Keeping the outside of cover up. I stuffed a paper towel into the hole where the bearing would sit. Then got a pop can and sat the cover so paper towel was sitting on pop can. Just to give the paper towel a little outward pressure. Then sit the other end on something to try and get the cover level.

You probably can't tell from the pic of the inside without bearing. But the is a slight curve in the JB Weld that bends to the outside.

Put bearing and seal back in. Had to get a 6mmx10mm bolt to replace the 6mmx12mm screw that had a messed up head. Looks like bearing was replaced before.

Took grinder to JB Weld and it was a little too aggressive. So finished with 120 grit sand paper.
Walmart want $5 for a can of spay paint that would be used after this. So I got a 0.99 sticker. After seeing the gouge. I found a can of black paint in back of work van. Only got pic after the 1st coat. After 3 coats it looked even better.

After paint dried. I put on sticker. Didn't need to put the sticker on. But that is what i got it for so it's on there
sticker=no smoking of belt.
But none of it will be seen after the gas tank goes back in place.

CVT and fuel tank back in. Took for a test drive. Stopping ever mile or so. Just taking it easy to break in the new belt. Everything went fine.

After test drive, went back home, put rest of plastic back on. Even replaced factory scratches windshield. Didn't really like the L channel aluminum that I used. But it was what I had and the price was right FREE.

Thanks for all the help.

No just joking. I wouldn't do anything like that.
I did cut out cardboard and taped over the bottom of hole from inside.

Then I flipped over and filled the hole with JB Weld. Once the JB weld has cured.
I'll remove tape and cardboard.
Sand the outside and paint

Brother did the same thing when he laid his bike over and put his kickstarter thru his. He didn't have the bearing to contend with. But same process.

Thanks for the suggestion. But went a slightly different route.

Since I'm selling it. I just took back apart,
Used existing bearing. Cut out a piece of cardboard. Took clear tape. And taped the cardboard over hole and reassemble.
The gas tank is going to hide that side anyway. And by the time the new owner has any trouble. He will have forgotten where I live.

Was in such a rush I only got one pic. I didn't even trim the clear tape around the cardboard

And thanks for the one-way bearing info.
That is what I was thinking but not 100% sure.

No play in bearings.
But the seal in the CVT housing was weeping moist around the clutch drum.
The bearing in the CVT cover was shot.

Since I already had parts on the way. Went ahead and ordered the bearing and both seals.

Got seal out of the cover with no issue. The bearing was a different story. Kinda put a hole in the CVT cover. See pic
Think I'm going to get some 2 part putty like JB Weld, and rough up the outside and apply the putty.

But I put the new clutch, one-way bearing, clutch drum, belt, the 2 seals and new bearing in.

Need to do something about the case. Even if it is just duct tape over the hole in CVT case. Before I can put fuel tank and rest back together.

A new CVT cover is out of the question. To be honest. I've sunk enough money in this pit. Wife is kinda leary of it now. So after I get it back together. I'm going to put it up for sale. It should be right and have an extra good wet clutch to go with it.

I think the issue with it slipping before. Was when I cleaned the sheaves. I used purple power and soap. Maybe not enough soap. Then took 1500 Grit sand paper to sheaves. And didn't wash the within specs belt. Guess between the sanding and not wash belt. It just wouldn't grape.
But either way there's a new wet clutch, one-way bearing, clutch drum, clutch drum bearing replaced last time, seal, CVT cover bearing and seal, new belt, oil filter and oil in it now.

Just need to do something about this hole.

Well jumped the gun.

Checked to see if wet clutch was slipping. And it made an awful racket, so I "KNEW" the wet clutch was gone.

Drained oil (nope didn't check to see if low).
Pulled CVT housing off to expose the wet clutch. So I could clean everything up and get ready to install new wet clutch when it gets here.

As you can see from the pics wet clutch looks good.

Then I drained oil from catch pan and even though there was a little oil that came out then I removed the CVT housing. It wasn't enough to account for what was missing.

So I think I'm just going to get some gasket material and make new gaskets. And reinstall the old clutch.

When the new wet clutch gets here just keep it for incase of.

There was just a little ware on the clutch drum but it isn't that bad. Can't catch my fingernail.

The new belt arrived Thursday so I'll install that and see what happens.

Getting kinda late. Got to pick up tools..
So just going to soak the clutch overnight before reinstalling. Have to get some gasket paper anyway.

Just one question. When I took the CVT housing off. The one-way bearing fell out. I'm not 100% sure how it goes back in to work correctly. Any tips or secrets?

Well got back together.

After a good cleaning.
Had old belt check with caliber was width of 35mm manual I got from somebody, (thanks again), says to replace at 33.5mm . Only reason  I replaced the 1st time. Is I THOUGHT it was bad. Turned out to be wet clutch.

Well wet clutch is bad again. I remember how to check for a bad wet clutch. So got to order another clutch and going to get a new belt before I take apart again.

BUT was able to travel about 500 ft. 😆

NMK thanks for the help.

I don't think anything is broken in trans.

https://youtu.be/pZPGBIOGq-M

NMK,

Dude, do you ever get tired of being right?

I just hope nothing inside is broken.

This is (was) a 2ish year old Gates belt from Amazon.

Trouble again.

Wife and I were heading to fishing hole.
Been on road about 10ish miles. Blacktop. In 2 wheel drive.
Everything was going fine until it wasn't.

Moto engine sounded as if it was way way bogged down. Then the rear wheels locked up. Went skidding about 20ft and went off side of road. Landed on driver side.

No serious injuries. Got a little road rash on shoulder, left arm. No seat belt. Wife a few bruises from seat belt. Knot on shin.

Tell you one thing the good Lord was watching over us yesterday. Could have ended a LOT worse than it did.

Shut off moto with key, wife and I climbed out. Shook the poop out my britches leg and before I could get Cell phone out of pocket to take pictures. Guy came along in truck and flipped back over on the wheels.

Gave it about 5 minutes and started back up.
Started just fine. Put in gear and wouldn't budge. Engine sounded as if it was bogged down. No forward no reverse no moving machine won't move. Can't push in gear with or without engine running. Can push by hand in neutral. Even in neutral the engine sounds bogged down. If I remember correctly.

We loaded on trailer in neutral has no trouble rolling. Off load at home and parked it.

Since it will roll in neutral the differential isn't locked.

Don't even know where to start looking to see what's wrong.

Any advice?

Thinking about starting again. Listen to engine. Remove cvt belt. Then listen to engine. Compare the difference.. See if can move the trans side of cvt to see if it will spin with cvt belt off. Then go from there.

Anything I should look for?

I found this dual temp sensor on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=IS+Icstation+Digital+Thermometer%2C&qid=1629902959&sr=8-3

The leads on the sensor are short but can be extended to whatever length is needed.
It may throw the temp off a little but not enough to be worried about. And it is dual and color coded so you will know which is which.

But you would have to turn on a switch manually.

OK
NOW, I get it. I read that several times, but it never sunk in. Sometime it takes a ton of bricks to get thru my thick head.

The one-way bearing/sprag, aka overriding clutch, aka one way clutch, and I think I even seen it called a locking clutch somewhere, IS the engine brake. THAT makes it use the HL clutch system.

I thought the engine brake was just the engine holding back when letting off the gas. Jake Break kinda.

Well as GI Joe said, "Now you know, and knowing is half the battle!" AND NOW I KNOW.

I've said it before and I'll say it again.

THANKS DUDE! I really do appreciate all the help.

Another question just to help me and possibly others.
Does the HL stand for Hydrolic Lubrication?  aka wet clutch?
Does the MC stand for Motor Cycle? Dry clutch?

Wait a minute NOW, NOW I think I get it.

If the clutch is a WET CLUTCH,  then it is the HL.

If the clutch is a DRY CLUTCH,  then it is the MC.

And only the HL clutch has the one-way bearing?? 

Either way I going to get HL clutch parts. Thanks again.

Far from an expert here, but

Couldn't the ride be towed in neutral?


When spinning the secondary sheave, does it stop after a few rotations of secondary sheave. Or do you just stop turning sheave.

If you stop. Try turning it until the axles make a few complete rotations. Maybe 10-15. Just to make sure.

If the axles stop before you stop turning sheave then it is probably a broken gear in transmission or differential. 

To determine if its the trans or differentials, you may have to disconnect one or both and try turning the sheave again for the axles to make a few complet rotations.

Again I'm far from an expert, but that sound like a logical approach.

I busted a trans on a riding mower and had similar issues.

Best of luck.