I'm not sure about the Uforce, but my Zforce manual didn't have a lot of options. I assume the 800 engines should be the same.
You had a lot of technical questions in that post. I can tell you what I did and found out along the way of my rebuild.
The crank kit I bought already had the connecting rods and bearings installed on the crankshaft. All I did with that, is check the torque specs on the rods which was good.
The bearings, on mine anyway, are for the left and right case halves and are colored red and blue for the corresponding case half that have to be in the correct half. They also have to line up with the oil ports correctly when you press them in. I too obsessed over this because my manual isn't super clear on this. One would assume that the different color bearings are different in size or thickness, but they are not. The colors indicate which case half they go in. I measured both color bearings and they are the same, so if there is any difference it may be slightly beveled that I can't see on my calipers.
When you press the case halves together with the crank installed, make sure the correct rod is through the correct hole, the cylinders are slightly offset and must be in the correct position before attaching the case halves together.
The pistons were marked/stamped with a l and ll to note which cylinder they go in. They also have an arrow on the top of the piston that has to be pointed the correct way , see the manual.
The cylinders and heads are marked l and ll also, so it's hard to mix anything up.
It was a fairly straightforward process.
Mines a 2014 800ex so I would assume our motor long blocks at least are the same.

Sorry for the pause guys. Been busy lately. So, from where we left off.

I decided to replace the boogered up main shaft bearing retainer and it took 2 weeks to come in. When I finally got it, I installed it, the oil pressure valve, and the oil pump assembly.

Then I installed the pistons and new rings. I got the #2 cylinder installed ok, but while installing the #1 cylinder, I bound up the #2 ring between the cylinder and the case somehow. When I pressed down to start the #2 ring in the cylinder while trying to keep it compressed, I broke it. It was a heartbreaking snap as I knew it meant another week's delay. Live and learn to be more careful. Ordered another set of rings for that cylinder and made sure to carefully install them that time. I set the head gaskets and heads on at this point and just snugged the bolts to retain the cylinders. The stationary chain guide locks in between the head and the cylinder so don't forget to install it BEFORE you install the heads, ask me how I know, lol.

Install the pivoting chain guides and pins by the crankshaft now at this stage

Now you have to install the cam chains. Don't forget the plastic retainers that go below the crankshaft. I just hung the chains over the side of the engine with some scrap wire tied thru them to keep them from falling back in because everyone online I saw does it that way. I found an easier way of dealing with the cam chains before timing the motor. Go ahead and put them on the gear and just start the bolt for the gear in the cams. Leave the gear slot on the outside of the cam pin. In other words don't push it forward to lock the gear to the cam. This will allow you to turn the motor to time it without turning the cam and possibly binding the valves to the pistons. Much easier and tidy way of dealing with the timing chains at this point in the rebuild.

Installed the gear train, then installed the one-way bearing, the woodruff key, and magneto rotor. Installed the new stator in the case cover. Installed the water pump assembly in the case cover and new oil seal. Installed the starter gears and mounted and torqued the case side cover. It can be a little tricky mounting the cover because the magneto wants to stick to the stator, but I found that if you start the case on, let it stick, because it's going to anyway, line up and press/start the lower dowel in the case. Then you can kind of rotate the case with the leverage of the lower dowel to pull the magneto away enough to start the upper dowel and press straight in to seat. I hope that made sense. It took me a couple of tries to do that before I figured it out, so I hope it helps someone.

Swapped around to the other side and installed the wet clutch and one-way bearing on the cvt side, installed the new clutch drum in the cvt case cover and installed the cover.

All this may sound a little intimidating, but it's really all pretty straight forward and simple, just follow the directions in the manual. I wished I had gotten more detailed pictures at this stage of the rebuild.

Got the heads torqued to specs and timed the motor.

Don't let timing the motor intimidate you. It's not that complicated, you just have to follow a procedure. On the magneto side case make sure the crank position sensor is removed if it isn't already. You can look down this hole and see the magneto spin when you turn the crank. Turn the crank counterclockwise with the 18mm crankshaft bolt on the magneto side. Look into the hole and turn the crank until you see a #2 with a line. Center that in the hole. This is top dead center on cylinder #2. You can check this by putting a screwdriver through the sparkplug hole and you should immediately touch the piston.  Align the cam gear of the #2 cylinder with the timing chain on, with the lines printed on the gear itself sitting parallel with the head. The manual goes into detail about this with pics if you're having a hard time visualizing it. After that's set, turn the crankshaft 1 full turn counterclockwise and start looking for the #1 mark and line. Align this mark into the center of the hole and repeat the setting of the chain and cam gear that you just did on cylinder #2. It's really pretty simple. Just take your time and follow the procedure. One thing to note is when you are setting the parallel lines on the cam gear with the head, stick your finger in the cam tensioner hole, press and take up the slack on the chain. You may have to adjust a tooth or so to make sure the marks are still parallel with tension on the chain.

Got the crossover tube between the heads installed and installed the intake and throttle body assembly.

So, where I'm at now is waiting on an oil seal for the clutch drum shaft, a new bearing and oil seal for the cvt cover (the one that goes on the crankshaft) it was rusted beyond usability. then all that's left is to install the primary and secondary clutches, belt and cover and the motor is back together. Then it will be the installation and hooking back up the hoses and wires.

I do wish I had gotten more pictures but here are a few of the progress.

Ok, so I got the crank bearings and crankshaft installed. Included in the pics are the markings for the case halves. they are marked A and B. The A side takes the red crank bearings, and the B side takes the blue crank bearings. Make sure when you press the bearings in the crankcase halves that the oil holes in the bearings are aligned with the oil passage holes in the crankcases. This is very important. If not aligned, you could have reduced or no oil pressure to the main bearings on the crankshaft. After that, I made sure that the transmission gears are correct installed the crankshaft in the B side crankcase on the table, installed the gasket and slid the A side crankcase over the crankshaft and transmission shaft. Installed the transmission shaft seal, crankcase bolts, and torqued them to the specs and in the order noted in the manual. There are 22 of them if I remember correctly. Most on one side, but there are a few on the other and they all must be torqued in sequence. I got to the point of installing the front output shaft and I made a decision to order a new bearing retainer. The one I have was chewed up pretty bad from the last person inside the motor. Tomorow I will be honing the cylinders and specking the clearance on the rings so that I can install the cylinders and pistons. It's getting there.

I thought is was the same as Kawasaki..as they have three different color doted bearing sets, all with different clearances to a new stock crank. Never thought CFM would have two different crankcases for the same year...and if so why wouldn't they be identical..even if from different lines. Odd. Yeah I'm sure China will flex a bit and try to teach us a lesson. We just have to be tougher..and get through it..together..as we have always done.

Not different crankcases per year model or production line. The halves of the crankcase itself. Left and right so to say. They are marked A and B on the inside of the halves with laser printing. Easy to miss unless you are actually looking for it. I received the red bearing last Friday and will be installing it this week, so I'll take a pic of the crankcase markings and post it for future reference if anyone else needs this info.

Hopefully this post can help someone out or clear up any confusion online. When looking for crankshaft bearings, I found that they were sold either red or blue, or 2 reds or 2 blues. Something to make you go hmmmm.

So, I did what anyone would do and researched a little online as to the differences between the red and the blue 
and which one I needed for my application. There was surprisingly little info of the difference and what the difference actually was. Some sites claimed it was a year model thing, some claimed it was a crank run out thing, some claimed it was a different thickness thing. No one claimed to really know the difference and I was pretty confused at this point.

What to do? I searched through my disassembly pics and noticed a blue stripe on a bearing. Ah Ha! that must be it. I need the blue ones. I thought I was pretty smug at this point, so I ordered the blue bearings since you could not just order a kit. Remember they are sold as 1 red, 1 blue, 2 reds, or 2 blues. So I ordered 2 blues.

The bearings came in and I pressed them in. All looks great. I check the manual for the next step in reassembly and low and behold, there it is in black and white. Blue bearing goes on crankcase half B and red bearing goes on crankcase half A.

#@&%^#*$!! If all else fails read the @&#^$% manual, FIRST, I might add. Guess who gets to wait on a red bearing now, lol.

I should have asked you guys. Someone reading this is probably thinking, dumb@ss why didn't you just ask me? lol. Anyway, I hope anyone doing a future search on the internet finds this thread and definitively finds the answer to the red and blue Cfmoto crank bearing differences. See how I phrased that as a search engine tag  , That is all for now.

P.S. do you guys think this tariff thing is going to hurt/delay getting parts for our machines? I notice most of my orders coming from China.

Yes, pulled the screen and bypass and cleaned them up nice. The screen actually caught a lot of bearing material. Also blew thru the cooler and lines with compressed air and a quart of diesel fuel to flush them real well. Just waiting on parts now.

Well, I didn't get as much done today as I wanted to. I got the crank case bearings pressed out and both sides of the cases cleaned out really well. I pulled out my crank kit and was ready to press in the new bearings, but they sent me rod bearings in the kit instead of crank bearings, so I had to get in touch with the company I bought it from to get me the right bearings sent out. I'm posting some pics of the damaged crank and bearings. They were chewed up pretty bad. Definitely oil starvation.

Since I was at a standstill on the engine, I got a battery installed today and started checking out the electrical system. I got to see the dash display for the first time, and I got a real surprise when I turned the key on. I'll let you see it for yourselves.

That's where I'm at today. Waiting on parts again, lol

OK, I just looked up a case on ebay and the chunk in question is supposed to be that way. Whew, had me scared there for a minute.

I'm not at the shop today, but the ends of the stator were fine. As far as the case, I haven't pulled the stator yet but if it is a chunk missing, it doesn't go through to the other side. I agree it does appear to be. I'll assess it when I get the stator out.

That's actually the pics after I wiped it off. The damage to the rotor is only on the one side. The side in the picture. Also the red stuff doesn't feel like RTV. It's hard like JB Weld. It's like the rotor was beat with a hammer. Maybe trying to get it off? Only thing I can figure. The main and rod bearings were wiped as expected but nothing looked like the crank was hammering around in there. the mains were scuffed below the surface layer and will definitely be replaced, but nothing too extreme, nothing worn completely to the case if that's what you mean. It would have to be worn that much for the crank to do that much damage to the rotor. Half of the inside of the rotor is like this, the other inside half is fine, not even a scratch. The outside looks ok too.

The stator itself looks ok but I'm replacing it anyway because of the cut wire.

The stator looked ok surprisingly. No broken wires or scuffs on the faces even. I really don't see how with the condition of the rotor. The main thing about the stator was that the wire was cut halfway up and feels like it was put back together and wrapped up with a big wad of electrical tape. Maybe they were testing it? I have no idea why they didn't just unplug the thing, lol. So, I already ordered a new one just in case, so I don't have to open the case back up if it is bad. It's been my experience that wires are usually cut for a reason.

Got a little more done today. I think I found the cause of the crank failure. After I pulled the flywheel I found the oil pump cover with no bolts in it whatsoever. It was slightly opened between the cover and the case. I'm surprised the cover didn't pop off under all the pressure. I'll be checking the tolerances between the blades, and between the blades and the case.

I don't know what happened to the magneto rotor but it is rough and damaged. I ordered a new one this evening. More parts I get to wait on, lol. My favorite pass time I feel like lately.

Also the front piston was installed with the pointer facing towards the exhaust. It appears symmetrical and there was no damage to the cylinder, but I will turn it the right way on reassembly.

And I think I'm going to replace the locking ring for the main output shaft too. It was boogered up quite a bit. It still works but looks bad/gouged.

I'll get it all straightened out. Anyway, that's where I'm at right now. when I get it finished, I'll post a breakdown on the total cost I have in everything.

Still waiting on parts. I have no patience, lol. So, I have been researching, reading, and thinking. It's amazing how little information there is online for modifying the G1 800's clutches from the manufactures of performance clutch parts. 19 and above- info, 18 and below - crickets. What gives? Did no one modify the older machines? Were they that good out of the factory? I don't think I have ever owned anything with an engine on it that I didn't modify one way or the other. I'm planning on running sliders in the primary and I have the weight pinned down on what I need, so I don't need a kit. I can't find a part number, color, or recommendation online as to which color secondary spring would be right for my application. I've always felt real world recommendations from people running the product is much better than company techs trying to sell you something. Any ideas from the members? Anyone running larger tires with any feedback or recommendations on a secondary spring color or part #?

Excellent write up. That increased my understanding of the CVT system 10 fold from what I was reading online. Thank you.

I did some research on the Dr Pulley sliders also and that's the way I'm going. I'm definitely keeping the big tires though, lol. They are just too cool looking    . If I have higher maintenance, so be it, lol. So a question on the DR Pulley sliders I will need for this machine. 30x18-24g x 8? I can shave $40 off ordering them by size instead of by machine. And is the stock spring ok to clock or will I need an aftermarket spring?  Because of their pure age and condition, I will be replacing the sliders, ramps, wet clutch, drum, and bearing.

All is quiet on the home front as I impatiently await ordered parts and pullers. While I'm at a standstill, l I have a question or two maybe you guys can help me out with. I've been doing some reading online about setting up the clutches for performance/oversize tire use and it's a little confusing, so I'd like to ask your opinions.

Question 1. My existing drive pulleys are anodized. Not necessarily pitted, but not in great condition either. Can the insides of these be sanded and polished? or will I need new ones.

Question 2. If I can sand and polish these, I will rebuild them, If not, can I buy them already modified, or is it more cost effective to purchase stock ones and buy what I need to upgrade them?

Question 3. My primary riding will be hilly, muddy trails. from mostly sea level to maybe 4000ft occasionally and I'm pulling these big beefy 32's.  I've noticed there are many combinations that can be made by adding weights to the wet clutches, larger weights in the variator- I hope I'm calling it right, and the springs and cam modifications in the secondary clutch. I've seen terms called B something, and C something by really don't understand these and can't really wrap my head around the concept because this is my first CVT driven vehicle. I'm sure I'll figure it out with feel eventually, but I need a starting point so hopefully you guys can help me out. I'm not interested in top speed as I don't need that in trails and mud. I feel like I would need more torque for pulling steep hills or deep mudholes, especially with the size tires this has on it. So, wet clutch weights? variator rounds weights, Spring and cam recommendations? Any help is appreciated.