Box includes radiator guard, two lower connection brackets, nuts, bolts, and instructions. This is an excellent guard and everything lines up perfectly. This radiator guard can only be purchased through an authorized CFMOTO dealership. Price was $129.99 and a good investment, considering that a new radiator would be costly if damaged by road debris.

I did not purchase a knock-off from Ali Express, because none of them include lower brackets and hardware. Despite what some knock-offs are advertising...there are no existing holes, brackets, or bolts on this radiator to attach lower part of knock-off guard.

When I refer to Left or Right, I am viewing from the front of motorcycle.

CAUTION: The aluminum fins on radiator are very thin and very sharp (front and back, like single-edged razor blades). When installing this guard, do not allow anything to come in contact with the radiator fins. They could easily be flattened and may lessen the cooling effect of radiator.

Instructions were rather vague... following are detailed instructions with photos.

Photos...

Ali Express knock-off side stand enlarger foot ($9.74 shipping included). Two weeks from China to Illinois. Perfect fit and is stable on hard surface also.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803511119475.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.0.0.77d6f19cJXXhRo

I did not want a knock-off radiator guard, so I ordered a genuine CFMOTO through my dealer (hasn't arrived yet).

https://cfmotousa.com/portals/0/MotorcycleAccessories.pdf

The Bosch ride-by-wire fuel mapping is smooth with no jerkiness on and off throttle, but there is a power surge that kicks in at 6000-6500 rpm and goes nuts at 7000 rpm. An inexperienced rider might feel a bit unsettled, kind of like a missile went off and better hold on tight.

There is some vibration in the crotch area when spinning in the 6000 to 8000 rpm range (redline is 8000), but with normal gear changes up to 5000-6000 rpm there is little to no vibration.

Front braking took some time getting accustomed to. The Brembo master cylinder, Brembo Stylema radial calipers, and braided lines have a much different feel compared to the average master cylinder, calipers, and rubber lines on most other motorcycles.

Maxxis MA-ST2 tires feel like a softer rubber compared to high mileage touring tires, and they warm up rather quickly. The dealer had the rear set at 42 psi cold and the front at 40 psi cold. I set them to 38 rear and 36 front.

Suspension is good for me as set from factory. For reference, I weigh 190 pounds. The forks don't over-dive on hard stops (when applying both front and back). The rear shock soaks up bumps nicely (manhole covers, RR tracks, rough roads). I never felt like I had to raise my butt up off the seat. The bike feels well planted when doing high-speed sweeping curves and leans easily into sharp curves while tracking nicely. Again, rather subjective based on how you ride, where you ride, and skill level.

The CLX 700 Sport isn't a Mary Poppins practically perfect in every way. But it does have everything I appreciate in a good motorcycle. Comfortable ergonomics, smooth gear box, stable handling, excellent braking, and enough power to satisfy my need for speed.

I believe this motorcycle will be a viable choice for those looking at middleweight naked or retro styles. Take a look at the Kawasaki Z650 and Z650 RS. Or the Yamaha MT-07 and XSR 700. Compared to the CLX 700 Sport, they are priced high with non-adjustable telescopic forks, lower spec rear shock, and standard brake systems. Slipper clutch, maybe. Smooth ride-by-wire throttle, maybe. Seat comfort, maybe. Cruise control, not. Self-cancel turns, not.

This is a bit subjective, since everyBODY is different.

The ride position triangle is comfortable. You can tuck down on tank, lean forward slightly, or sit straight up. The clip-on bars are not as low as they look, nearly as high as standard handlebars on other naked bikes. Hands on the grips feel like they are kind of floating there, hardly any weight down on them. I don't feel folded up on this bike at all. For reference, I am 6 foot tall with a 30" inseam.

Side panels below fuel tank are placed properly and thighs/knees are in the right place for additional control.

The unusually wide foot pegs do not get in the way when putting feet on the ground, and no vibrations when on the move (depending on the type of boot or shoe). Plenty of heel room, as the exhaust and shield is low and out of the way. I have good space between foot peg and shifter when wearing Daytona boots. I think the pegs are a little bit more forward and a bit lower than other bikes like the Z650, MT-07, and GSX-S750. It's difficult to compare unless you measure all of them... just saying.

Seat is excellent, padding is firm and comfortable. No hot spots on tail bone or buttocks. No crotch pushing forward into tank. Plenty of room between tank and rear cowl. Corbin seats were good, and I believe this one is better. As a reference, the Z900 seat was like sitting on a 2x4 compared to a Corbin or this CLX seat.

Instrument display - when sun is shining directly on display, LCD readout is clear and easily readable.

Readouts - speed, tachometer, gear indicator, and ride mode always on display. Coolant temp, clock, fuel consumption at the top. Odometer, trip meter, and average speed at the bottom. They are toggled with SEL/ADJ buttons on instrument panel. Only two can be displayed at a time, one at top and one at bottom.

Fuel gauge starts flashing at 100 miles from a full tank. Filled the 3.4 gallon tank with 2.0 gallons, and 1.4 gallons remaining... 70 miles to empty?

A decent showing of 48-50 MPG for a new engine, while not being easy on throttle and RPM levels. Estimated range is 150 miles with a 20-mile fuel reserve.

Self-cancelling turn signals - If you haven't turned within about 50 yards, the signal is cancelled. It's annoying having to re-activate. Should have been set to about 75 yards or so. Maybe it calculates based on time. Either way, IMO it cancels too early. It works just fine when at a stop waiting to turn, and always cancels when turn is completed.

Cruise control works well (the one time I used it). Consistent up hills and down hills. Functions only in gears 4, 5 and 6. When braking, shifting, or throttle applied... cruise is deactivated.

[Correction - When moving, it is usually between 176-180 F at 60 mph, and 182-186 F at 30 mph).]

At cold engine start-up, the idle starts at 1500 rpm and stays there during warm-up and at operating temperature.

Engine coolant temp during hot temp days when stopped at intersections, will go as high as 208 F. When moving, it is usually between 180-194 F. Not sure when the fan kicks in, probably around 200 F.

Correction - When moving, it is usually between 176-180 F at 60 mph, and 182-186 F at 30 mph).

Radiator cap looks hokey. It isn't the commonly used metal pressure cap, it is a plastic threaded cap.

Slipper clutch works good, easy start from stop... similar to most other bikes.

Gear box is smooth, shifting up and down gears with ease and no false neutrals yet.

Gearing is about the same as other bikes in this class. Gear 6 is running about 4000 rpm at 60 mph. Plenty of torque, can be in gear 4 at 35-40 mph and pulls away easily.

Two rider modes, Sport and ECO and can be changed on the fly. ECO mode is pretty much worthless except for rain, winter riding, or first-time riders.

Turn signal switch does not have a tactile click, just press lightly left or right and it actuates. I'm still looking at display to confirm it is activated.

Bar end mirrors are solid, no vibration blurriness. Clutch and brake levers are adjustable.

Purchase swingarm spools that are M10 x 1.25 thread pitch (same as KTM 690, 990 and 1190). Hole is threaded directly into the swing arm, and is approx. 22mm deep.

Front forks are the same length down from the axle and have a flat surface. It should take a Pit Bull front fork stand with short ABS leg on left side. The brake line junction is blocking hole in lower triple clamp. But the bolt holding it there could probably be removed and junction moved to the side to expose triple clamp hole.

Rear axle nut takes a 27mm socket and torque spec is 99-103 ft-lb. Chain tension spec is 1.25" to 1.50" (30-40mm).

Oil change - make sure the bike is upright when checking the level in sight window. DO NOT check level when bike is on side stand. Original user manual indicated checking level on side stand, but has been amended to upright position. When bike is on side stand, the level will barely show in sight window (or not at all). This is normal.

Owner's Manual Addendum -  https://cfmotousa.com/portals/0/OM-Addendum-2022-Motorcycle-Oil-Level-Inspection_20220426.pdf