My master cylinder went bad.  Got an easy to find replacement part#4060-080200 from eBay.  All went together easily enough but absolutely NO brake pressure.  Multiple attempts at different types of bleeding (manual, vacuum and pressure) led to no change in the feel of the brake pedal.  I contacted the seller and was informed I had the unit installed upside-down.  Unfortunately, this was the way the original was installed and had no play to be put in any other direction.  Guessing this was a "first year released" oversight as my other newer zForces have the lines attached on the side of the master cylinder.

So, I removed the reservoir mounts and the rear line so I could move the cylinder around.  Replaced the rear line and bungeed the tanks so they'd stay upright.  Held the cylinder on its side and began to manually plunge while I had a syphon bleeder attached to a single caliper at a time.  It was a difficult process, but I finally got pressure.  Replaced the cylinder without removing the rear line and did an additional manual bleed.  Pain in the ass but I now (finally) have brakes again on ol' red.

Figured I'd at least share the info in case someone else ran into the same problem.

Finally got to test out the new (for me) zForce 800 at a buddy's property we commonly ride at.  Handled everything Dill's 1000 cc 3 cylinder 200 HP Maverick Turbo could do.  One of the stops is a place along the creek known as "painted rock".

I wanted to document the installation of turn signals on my new (for me) 2021 zForce 800 trail.  With the 2022 zForce 500 trail the wire colors I tapped into were the same.

Here's the turn signal kit I used...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XQKR6RS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also these will make things a lot cleaner when it comes to the custom wire harness...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F54PFLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VX671SM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DLK7DRH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WWWPR2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need to access/locate a few things first.  In the front of the machine near the radiator are the factory plugs for the signal lights (see pic 'Front sockets').  These are what you will use to power the front signals.  If you are fortunate enough to acquire a brand new unit the matching plugs for the lights themselves will be included.  Under the dash display you'll find a plug (or two) that have orange, blue, green, grey and black/brown wires.  This is the socket used to access the factory wiring with the installed switch and relay.  Then in the rear of the machine, visible thru a space in the back panel, you can get access to another plug with orange, blue, green, black/brown, green/yellow and brown wires (see pic 'Rear socket').  This is where you'll tap into the factory wiring to power the rear turn signals as well as have access to the brake signal in case you have a whip light set that supports additional lighting features.  Such as...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0995YPXCZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I then modified the harness from the signal kit.  Since it can be powered from the black/brown 12v and green ground wires there's no need to run power all the way from the battery (see pic 'Original and modified turn signals).  On the SxS end I cut off the original plug under the dash and installed the other half of the waterproof 4 pin socket so that the signal right part of the switch goes to the blue wire, left part to orange, ground to green and power to black/brown (see pic 'Console socket modified).

For the front of the machine I changed the plugs to the waterproof 2 pin ones from Amazon to connect the front lights (see pic 'Front signals with sockets').  You will probably need to remove at least a few of the plastic pins to get enough wiggle room to access the fender in such a way that a 3/4" hole can be drilled to install the signals.

For the rear of the machine I ended up taking off most of the plastic panels.  I was doing a full cleaning plus valve adjust and compression test anyway after I got the machine so I had full access to all wiring and mounting points.  You can get away with NOT taking off ANY of the pieces, you'll just need to be a bit more clever/patient when connecting and installing everything.  Again, I just cut off the existing plug and modified the harness to accept the additional lights (see pic 'Rear signal harness).  This (as mentioned before) is the step you'd also use to install a light whip that you would want to control with either the power from key on or power from headlight/running light wires and/or light using the left/right signal or brake wires.  Again a 3/4 hole is made for any signal lights installed.

I would most certainly recommend testing everything each step of the way starting with the relay/switch under the dash.  You'll be able to see the indicators light on the dash with the activation of the switch (see pic 'Console signals factory look').  This will tell you right away if there are any problems with the wiring.  Then, do the same after connecting each light BEFORE fully installing it onto the machine as this will make undoing to correct any mistakes far easier. 

The project can be completed without any of the extra plugs, everything will just need to be hard wired.

Well, third time posting in the 'New Ride' section.  Time and time again when choosing a SxS to use for the day I select one of the smaller, more agile machines like the z6 and z500.  So, I decided to trade my 2017 RZR 1000 XP with 3400 miles for a 2021 zForce 800 trail with only 320 miles.  I lose a significant amount of ground clearance, but I feel it is made up for with its increased mobility and higher power:weight ratio.  Looking forward to getting it out to "Dill's" and "The Boogie" (place/event we ride).  So, now it's 3 out of 3 for CFMoto.

Took the newly repaired z600 back to "Dill's" to try and break it again... I mean ride it.  Seriously, though, I did hit a deep-ish water hole faster than I should have thinking it was just a mud flat.  Later I got bottomed out and when extracted ended up getting dragged sideways a short distance.  These two "events" led to a crack and tear of my passenger side lower a-arm bracket.  So, yet another break in the thin metal these older units use. (First being my troubles with the rear differential mounts.)  I was able to grind the broken one off, measure the hole distance from the still intact opposite side and fabricate a new piece. 

During the first ride of the season I noticed an occasional rattling.  It wasn't too hard to find the issue.  The muffler's heat shield had cracked and broken away at one of the mounting points.  A bit of time, metal tape and an unused bracket turned into a 'washer' and all got fixed.

Been busy with the Z600.  One of my rims was missing the STI HD Alloy logo.  So I used some vector art skills and the Cricut to make myself a new one.

Last year I was so proud if the 2" lift kit I has purchased/modified/made and put on the 600.  Well, come to find out the axels on the front end became permanently angled.  This resulted in breaking both boots and eventually separating the right knuckles, making a noise and bringing the problem to my attention.  A couple of new axels and a few months later I got around to getting everything put back together.  So, warning... lift kits on these units may put the axels in a position to accelerate wear/breakdown.

There was a question to me I had missed in a post a while ago concerning the replacement of Z600 seat upholstery.  For the sake of information (late as it may be) here is a 'side by side' comparison of the 2017 RZR, 2013 Z600 and 2022 Z500 seats.  The comment questioned if a RZR bottom seat covering could fit on the Z600 cushion.  It appears as if the bottom part of the RZR seat is similar in overall size to the Z600 but a little thicker, so, guessing with some tugging and stapling that one could be made to work.  I cannot guarantee anything, of course, but I've at least tried to include multiple angles and measurements as a reference to judge yourself :-)

The weekend I've been waiting for all year, The Little Boogie.  For the second year in a row we've been "first to the party" and for a couple hours had about 80 acres to ourselves. The z500 ended up breaking the high gear section of the clutch on Friday, but low and reverse still worked so it was still riding all Saturday until a bearing on the RZR's front differential broke.  Fortunately, for two reasons, it occurred late at night when we were all done for the day anyway and the z500 is under warranty.  So, "last man standing" ended up being the old 2013 z600 that I was driving.  A fellow tattoo artist I work with was borrowing the RZR and wife was in the z500.  Oh, yes, mud... lots of mud.  Good times.

I noticed back when I got the unit that my 2013 z6 started a little weak.  I recently replaced the battery but that didn't do anything to help so I ordered a new starter.  The replacement process wasn't too bad.  Reasonably easy to access the starter, only had to take off the center and back plastics inside and all it had were two 8mm hex bolts holding it down.  Much stronger starting now.

Buddy of mine (and primary source of trail land) Johnnie Dill hosted his last rides of the season over the holiday weekend.  Went out Saturday and took the z500 for the Wife's first official trail run with HER driving.  She did great and should be ready for the big local ride event "The Little Boogie" in two weeks.  Then today, Sunday, I took the z600 for it's maiden trail run (for me) and did everything the 1000cc Can-Am Defender that was at the ride could do.  Even hit the 400 mile mark on the way home.  That represents my first 100 miles with the unit and after today's performance, it too, is ready for "The Boogie".

Finally got some old wire fencing pulled away to cut a path to a gulley on part of the property.  Was able to winch over old railroad ties for a foundation and the rest went together with reasonable ease. Hot day, though, but got the job done. This allows the last northern part of my "trails" to connect with the rest.

With the new z500 at the dealer for some warranty work on the 4WD actuator, I decided to roll the broken z600 into the garage for a teardown and assessment into what parts I'll need to order.  I more than expected to see a broken mounting plate for the rear gearbox, but I did NOT expect to see a mounting plate that had also been broken BEFORE.  The mounting bracket had two weld lines in mirrored places to the new breaks that were on it.  Along with some additional "re-weld" evidence found other places on the frame I'm reasonably certain something serious happened to the machine early in its life that the second owner I bought it from was completely unaware of.  (or he actually did it and lied like hell to me)  Anyway, the more I dug the more I realized that the majority of the damage was in the two flimsy mounts and an axle that took the brunt of the disconnect event.  The main bearing in the gearbox was flexed enough where it makes a little bit of noise when turned so I'll be doing a complete rebuild of that with a mechanic neighbor's assistance.  I had never worked with metal in any significant way so I went into this thinking I was going to make some measurements and drawings for the needed pieces and get them to a professional.  On a whim I decided to do a bit of research on welders and went out and got everything I'd need to fabricate the brackets myself.  48 hours later and the gearbox is back on the frame for a test fit with the new, functional and much stronger brackets.  With the rebuild kit in hand and the new axle on its way I'll be able to use the ol' 600 soon.

Second time I'm chiming in on the "new ride" section.  The old z600 "bit the dust" for the moment so I decided to "bite the bullet" and just get a brand new one.  Local powersports dealer just happened to have a 2022 z500 available for immediate gratification.  Now I can have full control and knowledge of what happens and how it's treated.  No running this one without an air filter.

I had the cylinder rebuild all done and tested.  All electrical was working great and not throwing any errors.  Took the the unit for a test run and all seemed fine. Even noticed a difference in the throttle immediately as I no longer had to "floor it" to get it to go 40-45 MPH.  I still felt like I had a little left I could push out of it which was the ultimate goal of the cylinder rebuild.  Then... I hear a loud vibration... lose power to the rear wheels... finishing with with a clanking noise.  Find out the rear prop shaft pulled apart.  There are tears in the metal plate the gearbox is mounted on, the axles don't look so hot and I was leaking gear fluid.  So, I'm putting that little project SxS on hold for a bit.  At some point I'll get it to someone that know more about/has time for a repair involving metalwork and welding.

I did, though, "fix" the problem of a lack of SxS for the wife with a visit to a local powersports dealer where they had a 2022 z500 that is now being broken in by me.

I ordered a K-Line to USB adapter and made an adapter to connect pins 4, 7 and 16 to ground, K-Line and 12v.  I have been unsuccessful in getting a connection to the ECU thru HUD ECU hacker.  I have an older 2013 z6 and was wondering if anyone has had success in getting a PC connected to one of these machines.

I recently changed out the O2 sensor on my z600 after it gave me 0134 and 0030 errors, but the ECU is still giving those errors.  I've double checked all continuity between the socket and the ECU and everything is intact, both before and after the sensor replacement.  Could this just be an erroneous signal from the ECU?  Everything else still seems to function properly.  Voltage from the sensor is in range and the heater element passes resistance test.

Just finished with complete fluid changes on a 2013 ZForce 600 I got for my wife.  She never wanted to drive my RZR due to its size (1000cc Highlifter Edition) so I found this little used beauty with only 300 miles.  It needed minor work/repairs/adjustment here and there but nothing too major apart from new tires.  As for the documentation, I was able to locate all but the Service Manual for the unit.