The issue is that at random, the bike will just continuously crank and not fire. It takes several key cycles/pump primes for it to finally fire.

I have installed a $400 Optima battery in it, new spark plugs, every single relay in the fuse box is replaced, a brand new fuel pump and fuel filter, and I located every ground point on the chassis/cleaned them and applied di-electric grease.

The battery WAS an issue for a time, because whenever this would occur I would get about 8 or 9 different "low voltage" codes for various different parts of the engine.

The problem went away for a while, but it is now back (Without any codes though) It happened to me on the trails in West Virginia about 10 miles deep in the wilderness. We pulled off to use the bathroom and grab a snack, so the machine was definitely hot. Sat for about 10 minutes and went to crank it - Took 3 key cycles to get it started and me sh*tting my pants thinking we were gonna be stranded.

By all accounts, it doesn't appear to be an electrical issue and the battery is DEFINITELY strong enough (It's an Orange Top with Optima CPR)

What it seems like to me is it's losing fuel pressure, and fast. When the issue occurs, you can hear the engine sputtering and trying to fire but it won't until enough fuel is supplied.

I had considered replacing the injectors for a while, but if it were an injector it would still fire one cylinder and just run rough as hell right?

Has the check valve failed again? Is there an upgraded or aftermarket fuel pump I can put on this thing?

I love this machine and have invested a ton of money in it - No more warranty, so I am on my own to figure this out. The parts cannon gets expensive.

Thanks

I removed the front driveshaft and drove the bike around to confirm it's the driveshaft. It has too much play in it and when coasting from 20mph down to about 10mph it makes a hellacious rattling sound only in a certain RPM range. A guy on FB said this was a manufacturing defect and CFMoto replaced his, but mine has been out of warranty over a year now. Has anyone been able to shim this out, or does anyone know the part number of the updated shaft that will fix this? It's driving me insane.

2022 950 Sport non-HO/EX, just regular model.

My issue is that the front diff is in 4WD, regardless of the icons on the screen or the switch position.

The actuator is working - It makes noise and doesn't sound like it's bound up.

This is most likely my fault, because the ORIGINAL issue was that my front diff started leaking gear oil around the 4WD actuator seal.

First removal - Replaced o-ring, re-filled with oil, stuck in 4WD

Second removal - Fixed the 4WD issue (Slider was too far over on re-assembly) but upon re-assembly, the new o-ring tore and it leaked again after about 6 months.

Third removal - Discovered torn o-ring, replaced, re-assembled - Now it's stuck in 4WD again.

This time, I am buying an entirely new actuator and o-rings, as well as removing the winch to get a really good shot at it.

Has anyone else had this issue? It's so annoying. The machine is a demon other than this really annoying problem.

Has anyone done this before I start digging into it myself? Which hose is which on the canister?

Literally only 3 miles on them. No issues, they will just collect dust. Make me an offer. PayPal preferred.

I cannot find guards for the front/rear A-Arms anywhere. They have mounting holes there for them already, but I can't find anything online. Has anyone had any luck? I don't need a whole skid plate setup, just guards for the A-Arms. Thanks!

Hello all. I have been beating my head on my desk trying to find a diagram for this system and it almost seems like CFMoto pays to have information about it removed from the internet lol. My evap canister is located on the front of the bike, right behind the right headlight, bolted to the frame. I want to delete it, but I can't find anyone who has done this. I have it torn apart right now in the driveway (Taking the side panels off is ungodly. The screws omg) I can just barely see the lines coming to the canister. My idea is to simply unplug the line coming from the gas tank to the canister, re-route it so it's venting down below the frame or near it, and then cap that port on the canister. Has anyone done this?? A lot of people say that the 21 model doesn't have it, but mine surely does and it's annoying.

I get sputtering/etc when it's running hot and it cuts off on me going forward down steep inclines. My theory is that gas in the tank sloshes into the line going to the canister and chokes it off, causing a stall.

Any help would be much appreciated.

A couple things. If you're getting the WhiskeyBent 45 degree tip for this bike, make sure you take off the right rear reflector that's mounted onto the back bar. Mine melted off in 5 mins... lol. If you haven't heard of these tips, look them up. $80 and it sounds like I put a brand new $500 muffler on. Sounds SO good and looks amazing. Huge props to Jay at WhiskeyBent!

Another thing - I've got 22 hours on this thing... The entire exhaust pipe is loose/moving? Not just the muffler, I know it's supposed to float a bit, but the whole pipe is moving a good half inch? It's running fine/no issues. Is this normal, or do I need to start looking at the fasteners?