2020 CForce 600 aka CForce 625 aka Cforce 600AU-L is basically the same model?

2019/2020 CForce 600 aka Cforce 550 aka Cforce600ATR-L is also same model?

I get very confused bout this searching the net and youtube....BUT, I know now that my 2020 model CForce 600 has the technical name CF600ATR-L, hence it is basically somewhat similar or the same as CForce 550 in the US.

[1,5 hour]

I got my 2020 CForce 600ATR-L (2019 Cforce600 in the US) in mid October this year. In Norway this is called 2020 CForce 600 (580cc machine with round LED headlights), and the one you in the US call the new 2020 CForce 600 is here in Scandinavia called CForce 625 (CF600AU-L?).

Anyway, it sure took a while surfing Youtube until I figured out that a 2020 model CForce 600 in Scandinavia is NOT the same as a 2020 model CForce 600 in USA. My machine is the same as 2019 US model CForce 600. Damn confusing.... I use the service manual for the CF550 (CF500AU-L)

Today it had reached 300km and 18 hours runtime and I figured that break-in service is a go. I have followed the manual and not pushed the machine and done som riding just to break her in correctly. In Norway, due to harsh regulations for ATV´s it is better to do service intervals by the hours than by the mileage/kilometers. We cannot use our ATV´s outside public roads, and there are not too many off-track roads either that allows the use of recreational ATV driving.

Back to the break in service. My dealer told me that they would charge me 4500,- NOK, that is 483USD or 412 EUROS. Pretty stiff prices in Norway, so I decided to do all servicing myself. I have built a house, a garage and done a car service so I am not a totally idiot when it comes to do practical stuff. But I had to admit that doing "mechanical stuff" with cars and now an ATV is not something that I am used to, not by far. (Have done full service on my car ONE time under guidance). The most advanced mech stuff that I have done is changed break pads and break discs on my Audi...

My shopping list was:
3ltr of Engine oil SAE 10W40, API SM, JASO MA2. I paid 33 USD (330,- NOK)
1ltr of transmission oil 80w90 mineral based (I used Ipone). I paid 19USD (175,- NOK)
1 oil filter, HIFLO FILTRO HF152. I paid 14,5USD (135,- NOK)
6 washers for drain plugs and fill plugs. I paid maybe 4,90USD (ca 50,- NOK)
1x400ml titanium grease tube for my greasegun. 7USD, (79,- NOK)
1xbox of break cleaning spray. 6USD (59,- NOK)

Total: 84,5 USD (approx 845,- NOK)

I followed all the points on the service scheme from my dealer.

• First I stripped the ATV (in correct order) for front panel, front rack, seat, side covers, tank cover, gearknob, gearshift indicatorpanel, dashboard/instrument panel and gasoline tank.
  I used approx 1,5 hour to do this, and mainly because I had to improvise when disconnecting the cooling hose over the fueltank. If you have clamps to hinder cooling liquid from pouring out when disconnecting, USE them!
• Inspected air filter and controlled the bands and nuts. No need to clean or change the air filter on mine. Used 15min.
• For the oil and filter change, I looked at youtube and this was very easy. I also corresponded the info with the servicemanual. The machine was warmed up. Filled up approx 2,85 liters. Used a torquewrench to torq the nuts as specified in service manual. Put a paper plate under the filter housing before disassembly, and I guess it is best to mark the direction to mount after disassembly. Cleaned housing with break cleaner and a cloth. I used approx 1,5 hours on this operation. Yeah, I know, a long time, but I read the service manual at the same time to get things torqued correctly.
• Rear diff was also easy, but I had to disassemble the rear skid plate, that was very easy with 4 bolts. Drain plug has a magnet, so cleaned this and drained all oil. I used a manual pump with a hose to fill the transmission. This actually took a while, since the oil was cold.
  Front diff was also easy, but the fill plug is a bit tight fit, so use an extender for your wrench. Otherwise, this was easy peasy.
  I think I used 1,5 hour on both diffs. Took time to prepare the pump, hose and generally other time consuming things 
• Then I jacked up the ATV and greased the rear fittings. Very easy, done in 15min.
• The one thing I did not replace during this service, was the fuel filter. I will buy that later. But is it really neccessary? I have some problems with understanding that how a fuel filter can wear out after 20hours....Anyway, guess i will contact the dealer tomorrow.
• Then I checked the handlebar and its nuts. It turned out that all 4 nuts where a bit loose. I noticed that something was wrong earlier with the handlebar, and it turned out to be this. No wiggly feeling after this adjustment. 5min work
• Now it was time to do the valve clearence and inspect  spark plug and other cables and stuff connected to engine. First i disassembled the CVT covers, took some time, many nuts.... When this was done, i inspected the drive belt and cleaned the clutch with compressed air. Now it was time for the spark plug to come out. I used the included spark plug tool for this. No other tools that I had would fit between the frame and the spark. I checked the spark plugs clearance and for other damages. I think I will replace this on next service. Next operation was to disassemble the RPM sensor. Watch out, there is a brown/orange-ish rubber seal here that easily comes off when you take out the RPM sensor. Just make sure that you connect this to the sensor. I used some silicone spray on it to soften it a bit, but I guess engine oil is just as good. I was now time to rotate the clutch so the valves end up aligned with the TDC mark below the RPM sensor hole. There is a very good youtube video that show this exactly and somewhat better explained than in the service manual. Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eooor6plhRY&t=904s. Next step for me was to disassemble the top cylinder cover. No hassle here, just use the wrench with an extender. I let the seal ring come out as well and lubricated this with silicone spray. Now it was time to check the clearence with my blade tool. I decided to use the 0.10 blade as my guide. This did not fit, but the 0.5 blade did, so I had to adjust the intake valve a bit. After this was done with both inlet, I used the 0.15 blade as guide for the outlet valve. Had to adjust this a bit also. Well, after checking, double checking and again triple checking my settings, it was time to assemble all together. But first, just assemble the fueltank, and start up the engine and run it warm. When warm, check throttle response. If good, you have probably succeeded with valve clearence adjustment. This valve clearance and assembly of the ATVs panels and stuff I used 2,5 hours.
  
• When all was good, I fired her up and took her for a ride. Everything felt good, and throttle response was actually better now after service.
• Total time spent was approx 7hours20min which is almost a normal working day. Take into consideration that I am a total newbie to this ATV and am not very used to do car repairs etc. But I am confident with reading manuals, checking youtube and generally checking things well before I start.

Was it worth doing all this by myself instead of handing it over to my dealer? Yes, because now I know to strip down the ATV in less than 20-30min, I know that standard oil service is easy peasy and will cost med less than 600,-NOK (55USD) in parts and liquids. Especially engine oil and transmission oil is cheaper online than via dealer.
My next service will probably not include a valve clearance adjustment if the ATV runs good. No need to fuck it up if it is working as demanded. I know that also many dealers in Norway has the same opinion, and maybe valve clearance can be done every other year instead of each year/every 100H.

In total DIY service saved me approx 360 USD, all parts, liquids included..