If you ran it for 20 seconds or so to fill the oil cooler and If you are checking it without screwing the dipstick in and its over the full mark, then it is overfilled for whatever reason. Yes, you can run that Valvoline oil.

Thank you. I'm guessing the only way to get a little bit of oil out of there is slightly loosen the plug and let it make a mess and drain for a few seconds lol?

Picked up this thing from a guy with 40 miles on it. Said he hasn't changed fluids yet. However when I checked the oil it is substantially higher on the dipstick then the ribbed bottom half. Do they overfill these things from the factory? Or did said guy try to top it off or something? This doesn't seem normal as the oil is about 1/4" to 5/16" higher than the highest ribbed mark on the dipstick.

Also can I use the Valvoline 4 stroke 10w-40 ATV Motor Oil in this machine?

It is a common problem with the newer 5 and 600s as they try to get the increased HP numbers. Thankfully there are weights and springs for the primaries that fix most all of that..including the hard shift-back that causes the hard engine breaking. You will want a spring with a lower starting number and/or heavier flyweights is all it takes. As for the shifting, if it is the same with the engine running or not, some better oil or some more break-in time is needed. If it shifts easy not running but hard running, check for a failing oneway bearing while in the clutch...many have even come from the factory bone dry and seizing already.

Sweet, thanks for the info. Looks like i'll be getting some weights and spring. It's just so terribly bad. I'm thinking that the more I break it in some of this will smooth out a touch but maybe not. Is there a specific Spring and bearings I should get for what I am looking to achieve? I wasn't planning on spending any more money on this after I bought it so i'm hoping to remediate this relatively inexpensive.

Talk with the guys at Main Street Cycle. They have put together some kits that work pretty well. Also RNG Performance has some kits as well.

https://www.mainstreetcycle.com/contactus
https://rngperformance.net/#

Appreciate the info. Thanks!

It is a common problem with the newer 5 and 600s as they try to get the increased HP numbers. Thankfully there are weights and springs for the primaries that fix most all of that..including the hard shift-back that causes the hard engine breaking. You will want a spring with a lower starting number and/or heavier flyweights is all it takes. As for the shifting, if it is the same with the engine running or not, some better oil or some more break-in time is needed. If it shifts easy not running but hard running, check for a failing oneway bearing while in the clutch...many have even come from the factory bone dry and seizing already.

Sweet, thanks for the info. Looks like i'll be getting some weights and spring. It's just so terribly bad. I'm thinking that the more I break it in some of this will smooth out a touch but maybe not. Is there a specific Spring and bearings I should get for what I am looking to achieve? I wasn't planning on spending any more money on this after I bought it so i'm hoping to remediate this relatively inexpensive.

what's up ya'll. Picked up a 2022 Cforce 600 Touring with 40 miles on it. I hesitantly purchased it after riding it. I immediately noticed that shifting it into L, H N, P, R, was not smooth and it required some muscle kinda clunkly. Then I immediately noticed i had to give quite a bit of throttle to get the machine to move forward and it was jerky starting off. Not smooth at all. The best way to explain it is it feels like there is a parking brake on when you're hitting the throttle and it finally engages and starts going with a jerk. I also noticed the engine brake is super heavy. As soon as I let go of that throttle it a HEAVY brake. Way too much. I don't like any of it. But from what i'm seeing some of these things mentioned are somewhat common from what I'm hearing from others. Except I think my lagging clutch and throttle seem to be way more pronounced from what I'm hearing from people. I have to check again but I feel like it was around 3,000 rpm before it even start moving in L, H or R. Any help would be much appreciated. I wish there was a way to adjust the engine break and the clutch lag so it was smoother and engaged much sooner without a jerk.