Good call NMK!
I took the clutch cover off to inspect. What I found is that the belt was very close (closer), to the inner primary sheave than the outer sheave. This is somewhat normal though, given the outer sheave has the variator components and it moves in to grab the belt once throttle is applied and the RPM's increase. I started the bike to examine further. Each time I started/stopped the engine, I rotated the secondary to 'reset' the belt. In the three times I carried out this process - two times the belt had a very slight twitch back and forth while the engine was running at idle. This suggests the belt is (as you said), riding a little too close to the inner sheave on the idler bearing. I will be picking up the the shim and install it for sure.
It does beg the question though, was the shim deemed not necessary at the factory while undergoing quality testing, or did someone on the line simply forget to add the shim?
I believe it got missed on the assembly line.
Every video I have seen on these clutches shows the shim in place on the secondary shaft...and that goes for any displacement engine, as they all seem to use the CVTech Trailbloc primary/LP3 secondary...

Hi Folks,
Hoping any 800XC owners can help answer a question I have about the secondary clutch.
In 2022, I purchased a CF Moto 800XC. Recently while doing regular maintenance (cleaning the clutches and replacing my belt), and I came across a situation that pertains to the secondary clutch.
In looking at the exploded diagram for the clutches on the parts diagram as well as the service manual from CF Moto, it seems there should be a small washer or shim on the secondary shaft that the secondary assy pushes up against (in the parts diagram it's called 'adjust washer'). I assume this is done to ensure alignment and proper deflection between the primary and secondary clutches. What is odd, is that my secondary clutch shaft had no such washer or shim. I did check inside the secondary clutch (the hole that the secondary shaft slides into), and it was not in there either.
So, the question arises - is this normal? Do some secondary clutch assy's have it and others don't? If so, is this done because of MFR'ing tolerances and my particular secondary clutch assy was within acceptable parameters and therefore did not require a shim?
Or, could this have been left out in error by either CV Tech or CF Moto at the time of assembly/production?
I can easily procure the shim and add it if needed, but I don't want to do so if it shouldn't have one based on the tolerance considerations at time of manufacturing as mentioned above.

Bought it new, November of 2021.
I thought it was odd as well...I mean there was a lot of grease on the hub where the outboard drive cup mates up close to the bearing.
No play and no noise so far.
I think I will throw a little grease in there and button her back up.
Will keep an eye on it and change out down the line if things worsen at all.

There is actually plenty of grease in there, when you look from the inside (I took the swing arm off last night). There was so much grease in the bearings it was all over the inside of the hub near the bearing. It's almost like they over-packed the bearing from the factory where it was produced. I noticed the same thing on the other side of the ATV shortly after I purchased the bike last year, in that I could see grease blobs on the inner part of the hub.
Here is another video I took last night.

Yeah I dont think it should be doing that. If I grab the spline that is poking through the hub and gently wiggle it back and forth, there is a little play left and right and there is an audible tacky/sloshing noise (the grease in the bearing).
Pretty sure that is not right.

Hi Folks,
Amidst disassembly of the rear end components on my %u201822 800XC to repair a torn CV boot, I came across this. Seems like a little too much axial play on the inner race of the bearing%u2026but then again, maybe not? Bike only has 2000km%u2019s on it so if this is a bad bearing, than I guess I am really unlucky for it to have failed this early on.
What are your thoughts%u2026is this normal?

Hey folks,
I have a 2022 800XC, and I noticed today that there is a small tear on left rear inboard CV boot. There was grease splattered in the wheel well and frame...so, time to change it out. That said, does anyone know if the entire rear trailing arm needs to come off in order to free up and pull the axle from the differential? I know the brake, the brake rotor and the suspension need to be undone, but not sure if after that is done I can move the trailing arm up or down enough to get the outboard CV out of the wheel hub. Would be nice if it is possible, as I have the Iron Baltic skid plates and so if the entire trailing arm needs to come off, I'll be needing to undo the portion of the skid under the footwell also. Looks like a PITA to remove that huge bolt that fastens the trailing arm to the frame of the ATV   

Yeah I will reach out to me dealer and see if they know.
I am bothered because it is in essence adding mileage I have not done, which isn't cool should I ever decide to sell the bike.

Tried that, no bueno. In fact I tried all combinations of buttons, with ignition on already, and holding buttons with it off and then turning it on. There has to be a button sequence on the newer models, as to what it is - no one seems to know!

We have a How To on doing it for the older ones...might be the same.

Can you link the How To post you mention? I doubt it would be the same as an older model, but worth a try nonetheless.
TIA.

I've seen youtube videos.  Try searching there.

I included the link to the YT video on my initial post, that method doesn't work for 2022 models.

Hey Gang,
Anyone know how to access the speedo calibration settings on 2019 and up CFMOTO gauge clusters?
I've noticed on my 2022 800XC my speedometer is off by about ~ 5kph (compared to GPS app on my phone - which I believe to me more accurate).
Doesn't bother me so much about the actual vs reported speed, so much as it does the extra mileage I am racking up that I am not actually doing (which will affect resale value). I found this vid on YT, which is useful for models pre-dating 2019, but cannot seem to find any posts about the 'button combo' for the newer models.
https://youtu.be/RtQEwKCkOlA

Correct, it does have a ball socket.
I agree, damage is highly unlikely over just 160km, and I was not beating on the bike during the ride.

So when you say remove an adjuster, you mean remove the actual adjustment pin that you turn to adjust valve clearance? If so, am I looking for damage to the end of it that makes contact with the little round metal disc that is affixed to the spring? By peen, you mean see if it has been flattened, as in the adjuster itself or the disc it comes in to contact with?

Well, my dealer nailed me. Against my better judgement I brought my brand new 2022 CForce 800XC to them to check the valve clearance (required for warranty in Canada), as I was at 20 hrs. When I picked up the bike, I asked them about the adjustments and they said they adjusted all the valves because they were tight.
Odd I thought, but I let it go.
Went for a ride this weekend, and noticed a lot of valve train noise.
This evening I removed the valve cover on the rear most cylinder, and low and behold, both intake and exhaust were waaaay out of spec.
Exhaust spec should be .11mm to .19mm and I can get a feeler gauge in there that is .305mm
On the intake, spec is .06mm to .14mm and I can get a feeler gauge of .24mm.
The cylinder is at TDC, timing marks lined up and I have done valve adjustment before so this is not 'user error'.
So...now I am going to adjust my own valves, and go get my money back from the dealer.
Question though, could I have damaged the valves (valve seat, cams, rockers or valve tips)?
Since the dealer did the adjustment I have put about 160km on it.
I am super pissed, and very concerned I have damaged the valves by running the bike in this condition.