I appreciate that this is your only form of transport however, I would definitely not advise to continue driving with EFI light on, these are designed to protect the engine from further damage until the fault is rectified.

Its like asking just how long is piece of string, you could have a major fault which could result in major damage to the engine or on the other hand a very minor fault which may or may not cause further damage until such time as you fully diagnose the problem bringing the EFI light on.

Take Care GMFAHFR

Hi again JFNC,

Ok there picture is becoming clearer, I understand the need to pressure wash your ride especially with mud ingress.

However, it can cause big problems with the EFI electrical Loom, sounds like your issue especially with the EFI light coming on after a wash.

One needs to be cautious with a pressure wash and try to avoid the loom, water getting in under pressure is not good for these systems.

As for testing an O2 sensor just type in "How to Test O2 sensor" in YouTube browser, there will be plenty of responses, select the one with highest hits.

GMFAHFR




 

Hi Darkmennis,
Sorry to learn of your challenges with RPM's shutdown.
I think firstly it would wise council to advise you stop looking at mechanical issues like the belt. These do not shut down engine RPM or place the ride in "Limp home Mode" which is what is happening with your ride.
"Limp Home Mode" is a common function on all EFI systems ATV's cars, trucks etc, its purpose is to protect the engine form further damage until the fault is fixed.
So, my first key advice is to look at the EFI and ignition systems, I strongly suspect the fault lies in these areas as the majority components in these systems will make the EFI switch to "Limp Home Mode" the O2 sensor is a favourite for this.
However, whatever happens please do not rush out and get a new O2 sensor, this is the big mistake everyone makes! The fault could be occurring due something else causing the O2 sensor creating an error. For example, any of the wires connecting the O2 sensor to the injection ECU could be at fault. There could be an exhaust leak somewhere close to the O2 sensor, there could also be an air leak somewhere on the induction system. There is loads of rubber tubing on the intake systems of these CFMOTO side by side's and ATV's, they perish or crack cause intake leaks and flag up P error codes for the O2 sensor. So, check all of this first before you rush out and obtain a new O2 sensor, but once more before you do that remove the O2 sensor and check and test it first. There are loads of You Tube Videos out there explain how to test an O2 sensor.   
GMFAHFR

However, what ever happens please do not rush out and get a new O2 sensor, this is the big mistake everyone makes! The fault could be occurring due something else causing the O2 sensor creating an error. For example, any of the wires connecting the O2 sensor to the injection ECU could be at fault. There could be an exhaust leak somewhere close to the O2 sensor, there could also be an air leak somewhere on the induction system. There is loads of rubber tubing on the intake systems of these CFMOTO side by side's and ATV's, they perish or crack cause intake leaks and flag up P error codes for the O2 sensor. So, check all of this first before you rush out and obtain a new O2 sensor, but once more before you do that remove the O2 sensor and check and test it first. There are loads of You Tube Videos out there explain how to test an O2 sensor.   

GMFAHFR

Hi again JFNC,
In terms of your question does it need maintenance...........
The actual O2 sensor is maintenance free however, for it to function correctly one has to maintain all of the induction system in good working order no leaks, likewise the exhaust system must also be maintained in good working order, no leaks. A faulty induction or exhaust system will make the O2 sensor diagnose these issues as a fault.
Also be reminded that an over modified induction or exhaust systems will also cause the O2 sensor to read the system as a fault because now the induction and exhaust systems are performing outside of the original set reading parameters for the O2 sensor leaving the factory.
Finally, if there is a genuine fault causing the O2 sensor to do its job i.e. bring on the EFI light, be reminded that this can cause damage to the engine, in extreme fault issue circumstances the EFI will default to limp home mode i.e. it will prevent the engine RPM's from going over 1,000 RMP in order to protect the engine.
Also be reminded that sole purpose of the EFI light and P codes is to protect the engine from damage and to stay within exhaust Gas emission regulations.
GMFAHFR

OK error code P013000 i.e. OBD "P" powertrain error codes
As I have mentioned on previous posts these "P" codes are not CFMOT codes, these are generic "P" codes created by the software manufacturer of the injection ECU i.e. Delphi or Bosch. So, when your diag tool is reading the fault code information it is accessing the bespoke software inside the injection ECU. Injection ECU manufacturers follow the generic EU regulations for the creation of "P" codes it is not something they have necessarily manufactured or created,
The error code Po13000 indicates a fault with the O2 sensor on one of your two-cylinder banks, or the oxygen sensor located somewhere on your exhaust pipe.
However, what ever happens please do not rush out and get a new O2 sensor, this is the big mistake everyone makes! The fault could be occurring due something else causing the O2 sensor creating an error. For example, any of the wires connecting the O2 sensor to the injection ECU could be at fault. There could be an exhaust leak somewhere close to the O2 sensor, there could also be an air leak somewhere on the induction system. There is loads of rubber tubing on the intake systems of these CFMOTO side by side's and ATV's, they perish or crack cause intake leaks and flag up P error codes for the O2 sensor. So, check all of this first before you rush out and obtain a new O2 sensor, but once more before you do that remove the O2 sensor and check and test it first. There are loads of You Tube Videos out there explain how to test an O2 sensor.   

GMSAHFR

Dearest Merlin,

I have been in the Automotive industry for many decades in all forms of roles, been working with ATVs for the same period.

Never ever have I come across this one seems the dealer is clutching at straws. Unless they are only telling you what you need to know and there is some critical issue they will not share with you.......hmmmm.

It's an impossible scenario, i.e. a brake switch or a brake switch circuit causing a power loss, no no, start again bud.

Start with describing the symptom or fault but blank out the brake switch and the brake switch circuit.

The only way any circuit can cause a power loss or drop in engine performance is if that circuit shares the same path to Earth/ground as the petrol injection ECU. An extremely rare occurrence I must state, unless some gorilla has rewired your whole loom. Petrol Injection ECU's tend to have dedicated earth/ground points and to my knowledge and experience do not share that same ground point with other circuits directly. However, one must not forget that the whole chassis/frame serves as and Earth return to the battery. 

GMSAHFR

Hi Earl,

A true test of any 12V battery is to test it under cranking load i.e. are you getting 12V or above when cranking or are the volts dropping. If the Volts are dropping under cranking your battery is on the way out. Conduct a dry discharge test, observe the all the battery cells during this test, if any one cell is bubbling its shot.
Never ever keep your battery permanently connected to a battery conditioner, it will overheat, sulphurise, and cause battery cell plate material to short out the plates in a battery cell as it collects in the base of the cell. This will significantly reduce the performance of your battery and give you the kind of start problems you are getting i.e. one minute its OK then another it's not OK.
Sulphurisation i.e. sell plate material dropping to the base of the cell and shorting out the cell is compounded in the majority of batteries fitted to all ATV's. This because the battery dimensions are 75% less than say a 12V battery on the average car. If ATV batteries are kept permanently on charge the whole process of sulphurisation is exacerbated and battery performance reduced to all time low.
Yes of course, keep your battery charged, do not permit it to drop below 12.5volts, but do this once a month. When the volts drop below 11V on a regular basis this too can cause sulphurisation and eventually destruction of your battery with the exact symptoms you are getting.

Hi DRVMN,
As bizarre as it might sound a battery conditioner can ruin your battery, despite the voltmeter giving you a reading of 12V.

A true test of any 12V battery is to test it under cranking load i.e. are you getting 12V or above when cranking or are the volts dropping significantly during cranking. If the Volts are dropping significantly under cranking your battery is on the way out. Conduct a dry discharge test, observe all the battery cells during this test, if any one cell is bubbling its shot. But, be very careful whilst conducting the dry discharge test, disconnect the battery from the ATV, in fact safer if you remove the battery from the ATV. Make sure you are utilising as safe and good quality dry discharge tester, not the cheap dangerous versions from Amazon or Ebay.  Probably safer/cheaper/easier to get a dry discharge test at your local battery shop/supplier.

Never ever keep your battery permanently connected to a battery conditioner, it will overheat, sulphurise, and cause battery cell plate material to short out the plates in a battery cell as it collects in the base of the cell. This will significantly reduce the performance of your battery and give you the kind of start problems you are getting i.e. one minute its OK then another it's not OK.

Sulphurisation i.e. sell plate material dropping to the base of the cell and shorting out the cell is compounded in the majority of batteries fitted to all ATV's. This is because the battery dimensions are 75% less than say a 12V battery on the average car. If ATV batteries are kept permanently on charge the whole process of sulphurisation is exacerbated and battery performance reduced to all time low.

Yes of course, keep your battery charged, do not permit it to drop below 12.5volts, but do this once a month. When the volts drop bellow 11V on a regular basis this too can cause sulphurisation and eventually destruction of your battery with the exact symptoms you are getting.

Try to stop diagnosing by substitution of parts in the start circuit that you think are gone, your wallet will quickly empty, only change something that has been tested and checked to the book. Remember that all electrical circuits and their components "MUST" be tested under load, especially the start circuitry and its components.

Should you after testing require to replace the battery consider a "Gel" battery over a lead Acid battery, they are by far better suited to ATV's however, do not over charge them and overheat them. Just one full charge once a month up to 14 volts. 

GMSAHFR

Hi Modelt,

The Speed sensor appears to be a common problem on CFMOTO, not just on your Z Force but across the whole range. I have been getting the same issue since 2018 model year. It matters not how many times you change or renew the speed sensor the problem remains. It matters not if you set the gap between the senor and the reluctor ring to extreme accuracy the problem remains.

The issue fluctuates between being an intermittent fault to a permanent fault, if its intermittent starting and moving off wipes the fault form the ECU and knocks off the dash warning light. If it remains a permanent fault, then you have to wipe it from the ECU with the diag scanner.

From my experience the fault seems to appear if you key on the ignition in the garage and do not move off, i.e. the vehicle is rocked slightly back and forth without moving off. This seems to confuse the ECU i.e. "Am I moving or Not" so because it cannot figure out what's happening i.e. am I moving or not, it defaults to safety mode and triggers a fault.

Just one of those little niggles with CFMOTO that one gets use to!!!


GMSAHFR

Mark,

I found the attached PDF covering CFMOTO T Box "MOTO Ride" subs, tis looking more and more like you need to pay subs to get all the features of T Box.

GMSAHFR

Mark,

I found the information below from  a CFMOTO global website, it looks like to get all of the features of the "T Box" one has to pay a subscription in the states and other parts of Europe. Not sure if this applies in UK, in event this to me is like normal and applies to many systems on many vehicles i.e. to get all the bells and whistles one has to pay via yearly/monthly subs which in your case includes the "Digital Key Function"

https://www.cfmoto.com/global/cfmoto-ride.html

Scroll down to the the bottom of the web page and you will see a table, the Free service excludes "Digital Key" and other functions, Standard Edition service plan does include digital key but not for all models @ approx 26 Euro per year. To get the full Monty i.e. all functions you need the MotoPlay plan @ approx 44 Euro per year.

Hope this helps

Hi again Mark,

Sorry to learn about the fire, the good news is that you survived, the ATV can be replaced, and it was, bliss a 1000 touring.

Ok it sounds like your phone is up to date but I sense you are not 100% sure?

Harry Hinkley is the CEO of CFMOTO UK, i.e. Quadzilla UK, Harry and his team are the UK distributors of CFMOTO in the UK.

Harry and his team are very helpful, to date they have not failed me.

However, there is not enough space her to detail my experience with CFMOTO dealers in UK, in short and as you know they are in the main garden machinery suppliers and lacking knowledge and skill with it ATV tech. Sadly you will not get much joy from them, there are as you know specialist ATV suppliers for ATV's in UK but they concentrate in expensive racing ATV's, something that Harry Hinkley is into big time with CFMOTO ATV's

Take Care GMSAHFR

Hi again Mark,

With regard to your mobi phone make sure its internet enabled with a good phone and internet signal signal otherwise none of the features will function. Make sure blue tooth is also enabled and you are in close proximity to the ATV when using "Digital Key" function.

With regard to obtaining or enabling the physical "Digital Key" capability it must be available in the settings somewhere but once more your mobi phone settings or age of mobi phone may impacting the ability to get or not get the "Digital Key" function.

Sorry I am working in the dark somewhat having not had direct experience with this new CFMOTO technology.

GMFAHFR

Hi Mark,

You are a lucky man having such an up to date ride with all this Technology, my ride is a 2018 X8, I had to fit most of this technology myself. Trackers, alarm systems and remote app tracking and GPS with accessory GPS systems.

Sadly I have no experience with this up  to date kit from CFMOTO however, loads of experience with other systems. The key is to try it, if it does not work stick with it until it does, from experience one does require a tad of tenacity and patience to get all this kit working seamlessly.

CFMOTO are leading the field in this technology at the moment fitting this kit as standard so  I see no reason why it should not work, make sure your mobi phone is bang up to date i.e. at least purchased in the last year otherwise it may not function as expected.

Take care, live long and enjoy GMSAHFR