As far as I know, according to the U Force owners manual page 149 & 150, you can get the 4 digit error code from counting the flash sequence of the EFI malfunction indicator light, but if the fault light is solidly illuminated then that obviously doesn't work.

My neighbors U Force 1000 EFI light has just come on solid around 4,500km. I did a full service for him at 4,300km at which I replaced the paper air filter for an oiled UNI filter.
What would be the next move?
Should I buy/borrow a OBD2 scanner and look for error codes and try to reset the light?

Howdy Folks.
This could be a dumb question but would anyone know if the U Force 1000 has a fuel filter?
Last year, on the same day, a friend and neighbor of mine bought a U Force 1000 while I bought a Z Force 1000. I have offered to service his machine but cannot see a fuel filter listed on the U Force 1000 parts diagram on https://cfmotousaparts.com/ whereas I can see a fuel filter on the Z Force 1000 parts diagram. Both machines are locked up in the mountains up a 4 hour drive away so I cannot just step outside and look. The dealer here is not very helpful with technical issues: e.g. when I asked the dealer to include engine valve clearance checks, at the first service while within warranty, he said that was only to be done if the valves were making a noise, and he would charge me 4 hours labor if I wanted it done.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

It's been hot and dusty here in Rio de Janerio state these past couple of weeks and it's just been too hot for my comfort in the cabin. Through some MacGyvering last week using Aluminum sheet I already had the engine heat effect behind the seats turned right down and thought that stuffing and blocking all the holes in the firewall and behind the dash would take care of the heat from the radiator, but not really - my feet were still sweltering as the firewall was acting like a huge heat issuing thermal blanket as it was continuously blasted with hot air by the radiator and fan. My temp gauge never gets higher than 3 bars.
Today, armed with another piece of surplus 0.5mm thick aluminum sheet I decided to install the largest piece I could at the front of the vehicle to divert the heat from the radiator fan and stop the firewall getting so hot.
Photo 1: shows the shape I ended up with. Basically starting with a piece of 20" x 16" x 0.5mm thk aluminum. The circular hole is for one of the radiator hoses. All sharp edges and burrs removed and rubber protection installed near hoses and electrical wires.
Photo 2: shows the front storage removed. After re-routing some electrical wires and the breather hose from the front diff there was a clear path for the aluminum sheet to be wedged (red circles) conveniently in the frame just above the diff. The white cable ties are mine after re-routing the electrical wires.
Photos 3 and 4 show the deflector plate in place from above and below. I used the 6mm bolt hole for the front storage bin (there is only one as the rest are panel screws) to secure the top of the deflector plate.
Photo 5 shows the stock half windshield that you get in Brazil. For those that have it and want to feel the delicious breeze I suggest you just loosen the velcro straps and slide it up as far as it will go to create a gap at the bottom of around 3". The velcro straps will hold it fine suspended there on a rough trail.
I just came back from a pretty severe 20 mile ride and I am going to chalk up this latest Macgyver up as a success. The firewall remained cool, as did my feet and the temp gauge stayed at 3 bars.
Half way through todays ride I thought I had screwed up as the engine started to die and would barely take me up inclines, but after a bit of investigation it was the cfmoto rudimentary stock sock over the air tube that was almost blocked with dust. The engine air filter was still pretty clean. I am looking forward for my warranty to run out so that I can install snorkels.

Because my Z Force is a only month old and I don't want to totally void the warranty I did a bit of MacGyvering to attempt to reduce the heat in the cab further and reduce the dust being sucked into engine air inlet.

I already have installed thermo tape on the exhaust pipe.

I realize that the best fix is to install snorkels but that would surely void the warranty. I will wait until the 1 year mark to install those.

I had a roll of thin aluminum sheet (0.5mm) left over from a house project so I made a simple deflector and installed it under the engine air inlet.

There are 2 spare 6mm threaded holes conveniently placed in the bed frame square tube, one either side of the air tube around 10" apart. I used those 2 holes to secure the Al sheet with 6mm bolts.

Photo 1 is what I started off with - around 13" x 13" sheet with a notch cut out for the air tube bracket and shaped for the curve on the bed

Photo 2 shows the air tube pulled out of the way to bolt the Al sheet to the bed frame

Photo 3 shows that I added another piece of Al sheet around 20" x 6" and also stuck some self adhesive automotive acoustic mat on it to give it rigidity and stop any tinny noises

Photo 4 shows the central panel back in place

I also took a full day and removed every panel in the seating area of the cabin that I could, including the bed and the front drive shaft tunnel so that I could install 20 square feet of 2.2 mm thick self adhesive acoustic mat most of which is backed with Al foil. I used it all up.

Not sure if I will see any benefit from the above but if you don't try then you don't learn.

Hello, I meant to introduce my Z1000 ride when I got it a month ago, but better late then never. My wife filmed this 20 second clip a mile from our house when we went out on our first ride. There are extensive trails where I live in the Atlantic Forest at around 3,000 feet elevation, 3 hours by car from Rio de Janeiro city. It`s a different kind of beautiful here with rugged mountains, lots of trees, rivers with waterfalls, exotic birds and mammals. But the climate is just about perfect, at least for me, and being from Scotland I don`t like it too hot.
I have found this forum extremely informative and have already applied some of the advice given by members and I`m making plans to do more as I get supplies in. To combat the heat in the cabin I have Thermo taped the exhaust pipe, added an air flow diverter in front of the firewall at the steering column window, placed pool noodle material behind the top of the dashboard and plugged off the holes in the firewall with self adhesive rubber mat. I can see that snorkels are a must though to enable closing off the original air intake and improve air cleanliness for the engine and CVT. That`s next on my list. I have a Unifilter 8503ST to replace the original air filter on it`s way from the USA.
A great forum - really glad I joined up.

Like many others I was feeling the heat in the cab of my 3 week old Z1000 and wondered what to do about it. I live in Brazil, in the mountains above Rio de Janeiro, and it`s a long drive to the parts store and usually they don`t have what you want anyway. But I did manage to get my hands on 10 meters of Thermo tape so I installed that yesterday and went for a test ride today. I`d say there is a significant reduction of the blast furnace effect coming up through the engine air intake grill but still more to do as is well recorded on this forum. For good measure I put a double wrap of tape on the section of pipe from the front cylinder to the intermediate flange, then I put a single wrap going down to the Y piece. I removed that front section of pipe to make it easier to install and noticed 2 things when I did this. 1) The exhaust pipe to cylinder gasket is not solid copper as I thought - it`s a sandwich composition with steel gauze or such like. I only noticed after I annealed it by heating cherry red and quenching in water , but regardless it came out unscathed and was reused successfully. 2) The exhaust pipe flanges are stainless steel and the bolts are high tensile 8.8 - the first one snapped as I attempted to loosen it without really leaning into it. The bolt thread had galled in the flange so I had to drill it out and replace it with a piece of all thread. I tried breaking open the second exhaust flange near the silencer but could feel those bolts had already galled without even turning them. So my advice is to proceed with caution on those exhaust flange bolts and also have a new pipe to cylinder gasket available before you remove the pipe.

Not exactly a new topic but I wondered if anybody had come across this type of coolant leak. I took delivery of a new ZF1000 3 weeks ago and as soon as I started to park it overnight on a hard surface, I noticed a couple of tablespoons of green coolant on the floor by morning. It's true, the puddle of coolant forms under the water pump area but it's not coming from there. This has become a regular feature after every ride and happens after the engine cools down and only a small volume leaks out. I have only lost around a cupful of coolant from the reservoir at the radiator since I took delivery. The coolant forms a pool above the oil filter housing and then drips down on to the floor. It's so difficult to see in there but my best guess based on what I can see is that the front cylinder/crankcase gasket is weeping fluid at the passenger side rear corner. Does anybody know if that gasket retains coolant in the engine? There should be a couple of photos below of what is visible on the engine.