2022 CF Moto u force 600. Full CF moto cab and doors. Always kept inside. Well maintained. Tires in good shape. 230 hours and 800 miles. Used around our 33 acre homestead. Everything is OEM. Have clear Texas title, all paperwork, and a CF Moto Service manual.  Asking $12,000 obo. Call or text Sean at 325.234.9270

Thanks for the replies. I truly appreciate yoir time. 

I will check amd dry that connector.  If that doesn't fix it I guess replacing that sensor is next.  She does wash it but not with a pressure washer or hose end sprayer.  And under the hood is to get the dust off... but I see your point.

Not to hijack my own thread, but do I need a cf moto programmer/code reader to diagnose other issues on this thing or will any code reader do?

Didn't try to bleed them.  The machine only has a bit over 200 hours on it. There are no leaks around the fittings on the lines from the reservoir to the master cylinder, then following to each individual brake caliper.  I thought of that but didn't see a need. 

I will check the sensor and connection for moisture. 

It's only used around our 33 acre place.  My wife keeps it clean.  It's her baby. It's not used hard or in the mud.  I don't know how it would get moisture in it.

We parked our 2022 u force 600 in the shop a couple of days ago and it was fine. We  went out to start it today and the light number 10 was on. It shoes to be the brake warning light.  The owners manual says this comes on when the brake fluid is low.  I checked mine and it is full.  I have the factory service manual as well but it doesn't mention this light anywhere. I dont see any electronics on the brakes anywhere. Does anyone have any ideas?

Update...  dealer said it was out of warranty.  Cf Moto USA said there was nothing they could do about it unless it came thru a dealer.  Tried to drill the broken piece but it wouldn't budge.  Tried to weld a nut but it was broken off too deep.  Tried to drill it completely out an re-thread and the shaft was too hard. Ended up welding a thick washer to the end of the shaft after putting everything back together in the front part of the housing.  Welded slow and kept it iced so it wouldn't hurt the seals or bearings.  Since it came apart in pieces, putting it back in without removing the axles and differential was a challenge but after removing the 3 differential mounting bolts and moving the differential back as far as possible, the twisting the front of the differential toward the passenger side, I was able to work it back in.

Long story short... it is smoother than it's ever been. It started with a serious jerk every time in low, high or reverse.   We c always wondered why ours was so rough and the videos we watched made them look smooth. The excess movement of that shaft, coupled with the jolt from the clutch made it crazy rough. 

If you have one that starts rough, check that bolt.

I only run 91 octane non ethanol in my uforce, my mercury optimax on my nitro, and all of my lawnmowers and power tools...  everything except my 21 F250 with the 7.3... and just because it drinks a lot of fuel. I've never had an issue related to fuel. 

That's too much to digest for my bold brain.  I've had the drive cover off and it's not much different of a setup than what is in go karts.  Maybe a video or play by play would make sense to me.

There is no way that bolt should be lose or broken.  Every fastener I have taken loose on this thing has been crazy tight... more so that the manual torque specs call for.  Mine was broken from the factory. It took me almost 2 years and 200 hours to find it. I saw the front to back play but since it made no noise until recently, I didn't give it a second though.

The dealer said he had never heard of such a thing. 

Is it even possible to make these things start smoothly?

You have to remove the 3 differential mounting bolts and pull it back enough to get to the bolt in the yoke.  Mine was broken in half... prob from the factory.  There is no way I could have broken it.  Now I have to get the broken piece out of the drive gear.  If not, they don't sell just the drive gear.  The set is $395  for the drive gear and primary driven gear.

On the positive, it looks like the be a rings and seals are good. 

I bought mine from Crown Powersports in Abilene, TX when my local dealer, Family Powersports in San Angelo wouldn't work with me.  I've bought parts from both of them with no issues. I've also ordered from Main Street Cycle in Tishomingo, MO and cf-moto parts in Minnesota. They aren't hard to get OEM parts for. 

We have had to replace several of our grease fittings due to them not taking grease.  These 45 degree ones need to be replaced but I can't find any that will work.

We ran into issues with the shifter not staying aligned.  Make sure its working right before its out of warranty.  We couldn't get it in or out of gear at times. 

Otherwise, it has lived up to the reviews for the most part.  We did the break in as per the owners manual and then serviced. 

We use ours for everything imaginable, including routinely pulling an 8ft trailer.

We put the cf moto brand  glass front and back  glass on ours.  Oem doors as well.  That was my next addition too. I've seen a lot of after market stuff that leaves a lot to be desired.  I will prob opt for thr CF moto brand

Details of rear gear case removal