1

CForce 1000 / Gas tank vent lines - in line chack valve- evap delete.

« on: March 28, 2024, 06:23:31 PM »

@NMKawierider and everyone.

I want to delete the evap canister it catches all the mud, one screw is stripped and it is rattling.

Ok so from the top of the tank there is a line going to a check valve (passive no wires), then to the evap canister, then to another check valve that is wired, and then finally to the throttle body.

I will keep only the first check valve and route the line somewhere high.

What's the purpose of the first check valve? Let air in? Let air out? In theory it should do both. Can-ams have two check valves one blue and one red, one lets air in and the other lets air escape if the tank is under pressure (e.g. sunny day).
I tried blowing into the valve with my mouth (force air into the tank), i couldn't. Tomorrow i will try with the air compressor from both sides.
After a ride when i open the gas cap there's a woosh, air is rushing out, so there is pressure inside the tank.

Do i keep the valve, or not? Do i put a filter on the end of the line? what kind of filter?
What about the second check valve, the one that is wired, what is its purpose? Do i remove it altogether or do i keep it plugged in?

Thanks.

2

CForce 1000 / Proper way to adjust the valves.

« on: March 28, 2024, 06:00:43 PM »

@NMKawierider and everyone.

I have some hard starting issues when cold and some chattering/ metallic pinging from the front cylinder, i can hear it with the old "stethoscope" long screwdriver trick, it comes from the head (disappears when it heats up), back cylinder is silent.
What's the proper way to adjust the valves?
When at compression tdc the rocker arms have some play, they wiggle. Are you supposed to lift/pull up the rocker arms and then insert the feeler?
Some say that when you insert the feeler gauge, the rocker arm will raise to its maximum point towards the cam.
I found that NOT to be the case, first time i did the valves i didn't pull on the rocker arms, i just inserted the feeler gauge and adjusted until it was catching. After reassembly the valvetrain was noisy.
When i repeated the process i pulled on the arm and this time the feeler gauge slid out without catching, so there is definitely a difference.

So what's the proper way?

Bonus: how the heck do i go about doing the front cylinder? I can't see the exhaust valves (especially the left one), i go by feel only (i have a feeling that's why the front cylinder is acting up). Any tricks?

3

CForce 1000 / Idle rpm

« on: July 20, 2023, 05:22:51 PM »

Manual states if I recall correctly 1350 +- something small.

On my machine cold startup is 1600 then it gradually lowers to 1450 where it stays when it is up to temp.

What's your machine's idle rpm?

Read somewhere in the manual idle rpm check and adjust.

Is there an adjustment on these machines for idle rpm? I thought it is entirely dependent on the ecu.

4

CForce 1000 / Service manual (EU)

« on: July 17, 2023, 10:03:18 AM »

My dealer has it, they wont give it to me, they treat it like it's some sort of state secret. 

I found an old service manual for the 2018 cforce 1000 floating on the internet. Some things are the same, some are not.

I need to find a specific wire that goes from the eps controller to the ecu , might be different on my machine.

Anyone knows where i can purchase a copy?

2023 CF1000AU-F

5

CForce 1000 / EPS quits with front diff lock engaged

« on: July 16, 2023, 02:05:46 PM »

Hello all,
Quick question, cforce 1000 2023 (EU):
When the front diff is locked i lose most (if not all) of the power steering range when in a standstill.
Sometimes i can turn the the wheels a little bit (just a tad of the full range), other times there is no power steering at all.

Imagine being stuck somewhere nasty and having no way to turn the front wheels but to brute force it, and even then it might not be possible.
Can reproduce it in my garage, just lock everything, eps just quits or moves the wheels just a tiny bit.

On all of my previous canams eps worked all the time, everytime.

Normal 4wd eps works as expected, full range of motion.
Lock the front diff and the eps is gimped.

No faults or mils on the dash. Is this normal on cfmotos?

Any way to have eps functioning all the time, everytime?
Someone on fb replied that cutting a wire to ecu (similar to low gear speed limiter bypass) allows eps to function everytime, although hes not sure which wire it is.
Any input?

Thanks.