It normally retails for $220 got it for $176 during a promotion weekend the company was running. It shipped from NJ very fast and I expect you'd get it fast in PA as well. As far as view it doesn't obstruct at all, I'm 6'4" and I look right over it. That back part of the rack that comes up a bit in front of the dash is about 4" lower than the top of the radiator, overall I'd say it sticks up around 7-8". I'll take a picture from eye level on the seat tomorrow and post it.
The install was easy however was a bit time consuming about 5 hours. I do have two great excuses though, it's winter and too cold to use my workshop so I used my garage attached to my house, therefore I didn't have my compressor and did everything with hand tools. I also spent about 2 hours of that time cleaning my radiator in my bathtub with "Viper" coil cleaner (which isn't as strong but is safe to use inside) and simple green.
Please be kind I'm writing this from memory, some of the bolt sizes may be off slightly but are included to give you a general idea of which size nut to look for. But below is roughly the steps to install:
Removal:
1) Open radiaotr cap and drain radiator, then replace bolt (1 8mm bolt on bottom of water pump, "drain" is printed on the pump can access bolt from under left foot hold)
2) Remove both headlight covers underneath (3 10mm bolts each)
3) Remove front plastics (from memory two electrical connectors for headlights, 5 phillips screws, 4 plastic rivets and 4 10mm bolts, two bolts are hidden under the black wheel well extenders, these pull up after removing a plastic rivet)
4) Remove lower front plastic (4 10mm bolts)
5) Remove winch fairlead (2 12mm bolts)
6) Remove front skid plate (2 8mm bolts)
7) Remove winch (can leave wired and just drop it down on frame (4 12mm bolts, pull the bolts on the winch mount not the ones that mount the winch to the winch mount.
Remove radiator overflow reservoir on right side (1 10mm bolt)
9) Disconnect Fan remove fan from radiator (4 10mm bolts) (it may be possible to keep connected.
10) Remove radiator hoses (3 phillips radiator clamps)
11) Remove plastic from between radiator and oil cooler (2 phillips screws)
12) Remove oil line clamp from radiator (1 10mm bolt)
13) Remove oil cooler from radiator (4 10mm bolts)
14) Remove top plastic cover and elastic piece (no tools)
15) Remove wire from thermostat on radiator
16) Remove reservoir and tube (2 10mm bolts)
15) Remove bolts from top of radiator (2 10 mm)
16) Remove radiator from the right side of machine.
17) Remove fan from right side of machine.
18) Remove radiator fill spout (2 10mm bolts)
Install:
1) Install oil cooler mount (2 16mm bolts, nuts and washers)
2) Install oil cooler (4 12mm bolts, nuts and washers)
3) Secure oil line to side of oil cooler mount with 12mm bolt nut and washer
4) Install winch
5) Install front skid plate and fairlead
6) Install radiator relocate brackets to top rack (1 16mm and 1 12mm bolt per bracket)
7) Install back plate on radiator relocate bracket (6 hex bolts and nuts, no washers)
Install small hose from radiator fill spout to top of radiator (~4" long, 1 pinch ring)
9) Install radiator to relocate kit (2 long hex bolts with spacers, washers and nuts)
10) Install radiator relocate kit to brackets on the front (2 16mm nuts bolts and washers)
11) Use a piece of rope or strap to temporarily hold the radiator relocate top from winging too far forward
12) Connect "L" tube to lower part of radiator (1 radiator clamp phiilips)
13) Connect "L" tube to supplied hose, cut hose to length and attach to lower radiator hose
14) Connect remaining tube to top of radiator, cut to length and attach to upper radiator hose
15) Trim radiator fill tube and attach fill tube to radiator relocate kit (2 10mm bolts ** Note you will need to supply nuts and use bolts that were previously used to mount radiator top to machine **)
16) Attach small radiator tube to fill tube
17) Attach included small tube to radiator fill and resevoir
18) Install reservoir to previous location
19) Install fan to radiator
20) The thermostat wire will be too short, you will need to splice approx. 8" of extra wire.
21) The fan motor wire will reach, you'll need to cut the ziptie and route the wire under the fuses directly to the connector.
Fill it up (radiator should still be in the upright position). Below is how I did it, however the "right" way is to crack the bleeders on each cylinder
1) Fill radiator to about 1/4" below the top
2) Open the garage door so you don't die
3) Leave the radiator cap off and start the motor
4) Let the motor get warm enough to open the thermostats
5) As air is purged from the system continue to add more antifreeze
6) You can tell if air is still in your system two ways, the fluid will "surge" up and down and the temperature gauge on the dash will go up to around 4 or 5 bars. You may have to shut the motor off and let it cool down if the temp get's too high.
7) You'll suddenly notice the temp on the dash goes down instantly and the fluid stops surging, this this point the air has all worked itself out
Turn the motor off
9) Top off radiator and fill reservoir to low mark
10) Install radiator cap
11) Start motor and let it get warm, make sure your fan comes on and is able to quickly cool the system off and the fan shuts off
Wrap it up
1) Lower the radiator slowly and push hoses and wires down carefully
2) Move the overflow hose into a good position
3) Install 4 bolts on radiator relocate kit with the clamps provided (I had to flex the sides out a bit for the holes to match up
4) Check for leaks and tighten any radiator clamps as necessary
5) Post pictures on cfmoto-forum.com of your new bad ass radiator relocate kit
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