[Sockman]

I went back and reviewed the video.  I went the proper direction.  All good.

Cool..what did you go with..B2?
When I tried A2 I couldn't do it with my hand...has to enlist the help of my 24" stillson

Yes, B2.  That's what everybody was recommending, so figured I'd start there. 

[glenlivet]

2017 Trail 800, I have 27" tires.. I'm wondering what to clock mine at. 
The degree of work involved in selecting a setting and reassembling doesn't seem to lend itself to trying out all sorts of various preloads to see what's just right!
I don't want to end up with a high revving gas guzzler but I'd like to reverse the initial upgearing losses of the 1" (actually 1.5") bigger tires and escape the conservative 16 degree factory setting.

Thinking about C-1. Any opinions?

[ctdls]

I just work on a 5600km 2018 Trail. Belt had enough wear deflection was bad, belt dust piles everywhere  It drove poorly @ engagement & just above. Driven buttons were worn enough I could not help myself but to replace them, ramps on the helix matched the wear on the buttons so I polished them.

Such a BS job to change the belt, deal with the wear on the buttons & helix. The drive clutch was perfect so I re assembled & re clocked to B2.

I'm just under 1100', set the cluster to rpm & went for a quick spin.

Disappointment would be an understatement, cranking the preload on the driven to compensate for bad calibration isn't the solution.

I've read how others have calibrated the factory set up & agree with what I would call a work around. Lighter rollers & more preload.

The stock calibration for altitude is bad, in true CFMOTO fashion they offer "zero" add taller heavier wheels & tires 

Your handy & have tools around the house  myself I would be chasing a helix angle & higher compression spring. Of course I would be modifying the factor rollers  rather than buying aftermarket.

[NMKawierider]

2017 Trail 800, I have 27" tires.. I'm wondering what to clock mine at. 
The degree of work involved in selecting a setting and reassembling doesn't seem to lend itself to trying out all sorts of various preloads to see what's just right!
I don't want to end up with a high revving gas guzzler but I'd like to reverse the initial upgearing losses of the 1" (actually 1.5") bigger tires and escape the conservative 16 degree factory setting.

Thinking about C-1. Any opinions?

Yeah..C-1 if you ride mostly even trails and below say 2000 feet. I liked it..until I started getting above 8000 feet and steeper stuff. Consider...a set of 24gram sliders while in there. You won't be disappointed. I have 22s but am considering going back up to 24s.

[NMKawierider]

I just work on a 5600km 2018 Trail. Belt had enough wear deflection was bad, belt dust piles everywhere  It drove poorly @ engagement & just above. Driven buttons were worn enough I could not help myself but to replace them, ramps on the helix matched the wear on the buttons so I polished them.

Such a BS job to change the belt, deal with the wear on the buttons & helix. The drive clutch was perfect so I re assembled & re clocked to B2.

I'm just under 1100', set the cluster to rpm & went for a quick spin.

Disappointment would be an understatement, cranking the preload on the driven to compensate for bad calibration isn't the solution.

I've read how others have calibrated the factory set up & agree with what I would call a work around. Lighter rollers & more preload.

The stock calibration for altitude is bad, in true CFMOTO fashion they offer "zero" add taller heavier wheels & tires 

Your handy & have tools around the house  myself I would be chasing a helix angle & higher compression spring. Of course I would be modifying the factor rollers  rather than buying aftermarket.

I know what you mean. Mine would act up so I would pull it down just to find all the roller ramps packed full of ground dust and the helix ramps wearing off as fast as the pads. I'd clean it all up, lube it with weapons grade graphite and it was great...for about 30 miles...then it went back to binding. It got worse with extra preload. Backshifting all but stopped. That's why I went back to B2, put new pads in it, polished the ramps and sliders...and put that filter on the intake. Man that filter can get packed-up fast sometimes...and I have to clean it after every ride. Sometimes I don't make it back before the CVT temp gauge tells me it time to turn on the helper fan. But when I open it up and see all the clutches perfectly clean..with the exception of a little belt dust...and the performance no longer changes, I feel it's worth it. I do think sense I am past my hot-rodding stage I might go back to C-1 and go back up a little on the sliders to the 24 gram. I do believe in the sliders over the rollers.

Still..like you say, these are not "premium" clutch systems. I guess we shouldn't expect them to be but it would be nice to be able to upgrade them to a set if we want to.

[glenlivet]

4500 Km here. The CVT doesn't seem to have changed on shifting/backshifting that I can tell, I just want to tailor it to the tires and maybe wake it up a bit. My hot rodding days are done too, I just want to go places.
I'm leery now of looking for better delay in upshift through much strengthening of the torsional preload on the secondary, if there's already an issue with ramp wear. I'll have to see what I find in there.
An external air filter and a forced air fan are starting to sound awfully wise.

BTW I took it to Paiute Trails Utah last year and I found that above 9000' it pretty much fell on its face and needed a good 3/4 throttle just to cruise casually in high range.

[NMKawierider]

4500 Km here. The CVT doesn't seem to have changed on shifting/backshifting that I can tell, I just want to tailor it to the tires and maybe wake it up a bit. My hot rodding days are done too, I just want to go places.
I'm leery now of looking for better delay in upshift through much strengthening of the torsional preload on the secondary, if there's already an issue with ramp wear. I'll have to see what I find in there.
An external air filter and a forced air fan are starting to sound awfully wise.

BTW I took it to Paiute Trails Utah last year and I found that above 9000' it pretty much fell on its face and needed a good 3/4 throttle just to cruise casually in high range.

Lol..yeah you'll need B2 in Utah. Otherwise you should be happy with C1.

[zebber]

I'm going to attempt to make one of those clutch holding tools while I'm waiting on my parts to arrive.. Anyone have any measurements on them?

[NMKawierider]

I'm going to attempt to make one of those clutch holding tools while I'm waiting on my parts to arrive.. Anyone have any measurements on them?

Sorry I don't. I made mine on the fly with the covers off. I do remember looking into a universal pin-type spanner tool that would do both and finding that it had to open to at least 6" to be able to do both....and that was tough to find at a good price.

[ctdls]

I would like to ask a question about the wet clutch, I've searched a little & have not found a good answer. I've been chatting with an owner who has had 2 wet clutch failures, the first failure in approx 200 miles total on the unit. Had someone replace the clutch & drum & it went another 200 miles.

What I do know is in both cases co op Silver 10w30 oil was used, this is for auto gas engines not ATV wet clutches. My question is how critical is the oil, I've read that it doesn't matter....a bad clutch will fail regardless....this is 2 times.

If the oil is critical is the clutch likely to fail in 200 miles?

Should this be a separate thread I will start one.

[NMKawierider]

I would like to ask a question about the wet clutch, I've searched a little & have not found a good answer. I've been chatting with an owner who has had 2 wet clutch failures, the first failure in approx 200 miles total on the unit. Had someone replace the clutch & drum & it went another 200 miles.

What I do know is in both cases co op Silver 10w30 oil was used, this is for auto gas engines not ATV wet clutches. My question is how critical is the oil, I've read that it doesn't matter....a bad clutch will fail regardless....this is 2 times.

If the oil is critical is the clutch likely to fail in 200 miles?

Should this be a separate thread I will start one.

Damn critical. If the oil is not JASO MA2 rated, it will not allow solid contact between the drum/bell and the shoes..and slip until it's toast. This is vital with all types of wet clutches and many wet brake systems. The other thing that causes them to fail faster is operator-error. People that leave it in high range going slow are forcing it to slip and that wastes it. The less it slips..the longer it lasts..just a fact. Rule of thumb-if you will be going 5mph or less for any kind of period, use low range and always keep it above 2300rpm to be safe on your wet clutch.  Hope this answers your questions.    

[ctdls]

Sweet, I was hoping you would reply 

Makes perfect sense regarding the contact between drum & shoes.

Your Hi/Low range comment is hard to get thru to many people, I suggest a higher MPH for low range usage, your 2300rpm mention is good. I like the olden days of our pick up trucks when we could run low range in 2 wheel drive......I'm always low range in the truck climbing logging roads.

Yes you have answered most questions other than how fast the failure will occur, riding normally not in Hi load conditions?

[NMKawierider]

Sweet, I was hoping you would reply 

Makes perfect sense regarding the contact between drum & shoes.

Your Hi/Low range comment is hard to get thru to many people, I suggest a higher MPH for low range usage, your 2300rpm mention is good. I like the olden days of our pick up trucks when we could run low range in 2 wheel drive......I'm always low range in the truck climbing logging roads.

Yes you have answered most questions other than how fast the failure will occur, riding normally not in Hi load conditions?

Well, let me say this. My little brother has a 2003 Yamaha Grizz 660 that now has almost 11,000 miles on it. They have the wet clutch that CFM copied and changed a little. His machine not only still has the original wet clutch...but it also still has the original factory belt ! It was his experience with the wet clutch systems that tipped me over toward owning one. Mine only has about 1400 miles..but it's still like new. I never let it slip any more then I have to.. treat it the same as any manual clutch in any vehicle. Use it to get moving, then get it locked in...and that means getting that speed and RPMs where it needs to be to not slip.   

[ctdls]

Agreed on the reliability durability of the wet clutch. I've only been around CFMOTO & the wet clutch 2 1/2 years & have seen zero failures.

The individual I'm speaking of has had two failures in less than 500 miles which is the total mileage on the unit.

His call to me was about converting to a dry clutch, I'm dead set against a conversion until the root cause is identified.

So far I can only see the oil issue, is it possible to cause a pre mature failure of a wet clutch in 200 miles two times........I don't know.

I did speak with the individual who replace the wet clutch, his comment was how black the oil was when he drained it...this was @ 200 miles. The owner confirmed the oil had been changed prior to his purchase & he believed the clutch to be slipping when he picked it up.

So the clutch was replaced only to fail again in 200 hundred miles.

I feel for the owner & trying to help in some way, he is several hundred miles away & very rural.......

[NMKawierider]

Agreed on the reliability durability of the wet clutch. I've only been around CFMOTO & the wet clutch 2 1/2 years & have seen zero failures.

The individual I'm speaking of has had two failures in less than 500 miles which is the total mileage on the unit.

His call to me was about converting to a dry clutch, I'm dead set against a conversion until the root cause is identified.

So far I can only see the oil issue, is it possible to cause a pre mature failure of a wet clutch in 200 miles two times........I don't know.

I did speak with the individual who replace the wet clutch, his comment was how black the oil was when he drained it...this was @ 200 miles. The owner confirmed the oil had been changed prior to his purchase & he believed the clutch to be slipping when he picked it up.

So the clutch was replaced only to fail again in 200 hundred miles.

I feel for the owner & trying to help in some way, he is several hundred miles away & very rural.......

Really hard to know what's up. Oil is probably part of it...maybe operations is another part...and who knows, there were a lot of them with bad springs that let them drag all the time while idling that killed some quickly. May be an alignment issue...may be the cover bearing is bad allowing the bell and shoes to be misaligned and no one has caught it. Once they are hot and burned..they are going to slip...and continue to do so...like any clutch. I also know as they wear..or burn, the motor oil gets all that in it and usually looks a little brownish or darker. I also know on mine after 600 miles my oil looks almost as clear as it was when it went in so..having all those filters and I assume there is very little materials coming off the clutch is helping with this. I do love the Castrol Power-1 or Power RS though. It has made the clutch work quieter, smoother and the transmission gears noise "less" as well as shifting easier...and it sure stays clean much longer then others I've used. I'm just glad I'm not having any issues.."knock on wood"
When I was a kid, like most all of us, I had the mini bikes and the go carts with the centrifugal clutches...and I toasted my share of them..even watch some go. Just because these are basically the same just in oil, I always have that image in my mind when I am taking off or climbing some mountain slow ..just so I know what's going on and do what's best.