[NMKawierider]

As requested, here's one way to remove and replace your clutches on the ZForce. My mistake, I didn't get a video on doing the clocking and assembling  of the secondary so you will have to refer to the second video for that. Sorry.

Here's taking them off:

Here's clocking the secondary.  These two aren't mine...or me...lol:

And finally putting them back on or reinstalling them:

And one for the newer ones:

[Cosmosdan]

This is very helpful. Thanks for sharing this

[tdonnar]

This is really good information. I was just getting ready to try a clutch adjustment. This will really help.
Thanks!!!!!

2014 ZForce 800 EX

[Gphennig]

How do you like the dr pulley sliders? I’ll likly try the clocking first, then sliders if clocking doesn’t give my unit the low end I need

[NMKawierider]

How do you like the dr pulley sliders? I’ll likly try the clocking first, then sliders if clocking doesn’t give my unit the low end I need

Great. I like them a lot. They work well and go a little more in both directions. Stick with the 24 gram though if you are below 5K feet. I went with the 22s because I ride from 5400 to about 12K and work fine but most of my riding is below 9K and sometimes kinda wish I has 23s or 24s .

[Sockman]

A thousand thanks for posting this.  Got this disassembled.  Had to make the "spanner" tool, and that worked like a champ.  Breaker bar with an extension and that one loosened right up.  My air impact wouldn't budge the drive pulley nut, so spent some money on a nice cordless one (1200ft/lbs) and that spun it right off.  Haven't got the clutch apart yet to reclock it, ran outa time.  Still need to figure out the other spanner tool so I can torque the drive pulley.  Not a bad job so far.  Once the tools are made, should be easy really.

I wonder if I can modify the one tool to do both jobs.

[NMKawierider]

The primary just needs pins on the right spot so why not find that spot on the reverse side of the secondary spanner's "Y" and weld some in?

In the vid I had an old one I used on my Brute Force that I adjusted a bit but there's no reason one couldn't just flip the spanner and put another set on the other side..just round pins.

[Sockman]

This is what I ended up with.  Works great.  May never use it again!  The beauty of this is that the front of the bar tucks perfectly under one of the seat brackets, so you don't even have to hold it while tightening or loosening the nut for the driven pulley. 

If anybody wants to borrow it, just pay shipping back and forth and you're welcome to use it.

[NMKawierider]

Nice. Oh..trust me..you will use it again...and again...lol

[Sockman]

I did have a little trouble clocking the spring.  It took some doing to twist it into place before compressing the spring down.  Wondered if I was doing it wrong.  I think it was right, but just felt like a lot of tension to get it over and to stay in place.  Also, and this was dumb on my part, about lost my face taking it apart.  Thought the spring had let out the tension, so I zipped the pressure off with the impact.  Luckily I still had my hand on the thing and when it came loose, it really flew out of there.  Had to go change my shorts.

[NMKawierider]

I did have a little trouble clocking the spring.  It took some doing to twist it into place before compressing the spring down.  Wondered if I was doing it wrong.  I think it was right, but just felt like a lot of tension to get it over and to stay in place.  Also, and this was dumb on my part, about lost my face taking it apart.  Thought the spring had let out the tension, so I zipped the pressure off with the impact.  Luckily I still had my hand on the thing and when it came loose, it really flew out of there.  Had to go change my shorts.

Those springs have both torsion and compression so yeah..they can be deceptive.

Shouldn't have been too much to set the helix onto the pads. You always preload the spring in the direction that twists it inward (making it smaller) not outward (making it expand or larger) and the amount can be thought of as looking at a degree wheel and the chart. For example, looking at the chart, B2 shows 38 degrees of preload so looking down on the helix (the parts with the ramps) think of looking down on a "degree wheel" and thinking of twisting the helix from the 12 o'clock position, zero, to 38 degrees to set it on the pad...just make sure that's the correct direction for twisting the spring..either way it has to go it will be 38 degrees from zero.
 
Some guys went too far...and others went backwards where other didn't set it at all.

[Sockman]

Pretty sure I went inward with the spring, but I don't recall twisting it to the right.  So, if I went the wrong direction, wonder how the machine would act?

[NMKawierider]

Pretty sure I went inward with the spring, but I don't recall twisting it to the right.  So, if I went the wrong direction, wonder how the machine would act?

Probably won't shift...or will shift way too easy.

[Sockman]

I went back and reviewed the video.  I went the proper direction.  All good.

[NMKawierider]

I went back and reviewed the video.  I went the proper direction.  All good.

Cool..what did you go with..B2?
When I tried A2 I couldn't do it with my hand...has to enlist the help of my 24" stillson