Great post!
Thanks

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Great post!
Thanks

Look in the information center for Unifilter numbers for your machine.

Great post!
Thanks

Look in the information center for Unifilter numbers for your machine.

Thank you, I will.
I saw your modification of the engine air intake to out the back.
I was thinking that after I block off the gap between the engine area and the engine air intake, that I would just plumb directly forward into the cab right there between the seats. Pout a little K&N as a pre-filter there.
??

While more filtration is to my way of thinking usually better, the K&N filter is so poor anyway that it's hardly worth making any modification in order to add one to an intake tract that already has a quality filter (UNI). Blocking the intake tract from breathing the engine and back tire air has already done the heavy lifting for you, freeing you from air filtration slavery.
Putting a K&N in front of that intake would be like putting tinfoil on a tank.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

For me I found by installing a vacuum gauge on the drain plug of the air box that the OE pipe alone had enough restriction to show on that gauge starting at 3800. Just putting the clean pre-filter bag over it that it comes with didn't increase the restriction but letting it get a little dirty did. And all the modifications I did to that pipe had no effect on restriction.. let alone installing all those filters I has ported to the bed-side....that plugged-up is just a few road miles. The only thing that stopped that was when I got rid of it completely and went with the 2.5" turbo pipe and fittings to the right side of the bed and adapted-out to the 3" and stacks. Then no matter what filter I put in the inline can, I never got any measurable vacuum level on the air box. So...with that said, anything you put on or over the end of that stick intake pipe will increase the resistance and make more vacuum on the box..and engine intake system. For now I would box it off in back and either run it with no pre-filter or just the bag. Getting all it's air through the cab and grill will be an amazing improvement all by itself...for the engine and filter life.

That's curious you mention restriction of air from the filter sock on the intake plenum. I noticed one time on my removing that sock, that on the rear facing side there was a distinct 2" disk shaped dirty spot corresponding to the intake hole on the back side. This meant that the sock had sucked up against the hole and therefor the rest of the sock was doing nothing, all intake air the motor was getting came through that one small dirty disk shaped section of prefilter sock! I wonder how many other people that happens to?

I drilled some additional holes in the plenum end, the idea being to reduce the velocity of the incoming air that had all come through the single hole, now shared among four. It seems to work. I'll have to try Clark's air box drain vacuum gauge trick. That's a good one.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

I noticed that too on the prefilter. I also noticed that there is a heavy restriction zone about in line with the mount bolt. As I recall it measures-out to something like 1.68"( something like that..it's been a while) where the intake opening on the box works out to 2.48"(that's why I went with 2.5"). Your extra hole there should help with that restriction there quit a bit.

Just a word to the wise.  If anybody has changed or cleaned their air filter on a cfmoto I%u2019d suggest checking the boot.  Now I think a clamp should be tight to work as well a clamp.  What%u2019s the point of putting in a good aftermarket air filter in if the cfmoto factory boot sucks.  This will let dust and dirt in so no point even having a filter.   A trip to the local Home Depot for a piece of abs pipe fixed it up

For me I found by installing a vacuum gauge on the drain plug of the air box that the OE pipe alone had enough restriction to show on that gauge starting at 3800. Just putting the clean pre-filter bag over it that it comes with didn't increase the restriction but letting it get a little dirty did. And all the modifications I did to that pipe had no effect on restriction.. let alone installing all those filters I has ported to the bed-side....that plugged-up is just a few road miles. The only thing that stopped that was when I got rid of it completely and went with the 2.5" turbo pipe and fittings to the right side of the bed and adapted-out to the 3" and stacks. Then no matter what filter I put in the inline can, I never got any measurable vacuum level on the air box. So...with that said, anything you put on or over the end of that stick intake pipe will increase the resistance and make more vacuum on the box..and engine intake system. For now I would box it off in back and either run it with no pre-filter or just the bag. Getting all it's air through the cab and grill will be an amazing improvement all by itself...for the engine and filter life.

Ok, so I am ready to make a mod to the air system of mine, tired of having to clean the filter after every single ride!  So knowing what you do now, what is the best recommendation to have the air all come through the cab instead of underneath the cab?  I had thought of drilling a 2" hole in the front of the plenum and blocking off the back one, then making it run through the grill, then block off all the holes in the grill.  Thoughts?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

For me I found by installing a vacuum gauge on the drain plug of the air box that the OE pipe alone had enough restriction to show on that gauge starting at 3800. Just putting the clean pre-filter bag over it that it comes with didn't increase the restriction but letting it get a little dirty did. And all the modifications I did to that pipe had no effect on restriction.. let alone installing all those filters I has ported to the bed-side....that plugged-up is just a few road miles. The only thing that stopped that was when I got rid of it completely and went with the 2.5" turbo pipe and fittings to the right side of the bed and adapted-out to the 3" and stacks. Then no matter what filter I put in the inline can, I never got any measurable vacuum level on the air box. So...with that said, anything you put on or over the end of that stick intake pipe will increase the resistance and make more vacuum on the box..and engine intake system. For now I would box it off in back and either run it with no pre-filter or just the bag. Getting all it's air through the cab and grill will be an amazing improvement all by itself...for the engine and filter life.

Ok, so I am ready to make a mod to the air system of mine, tired of having to clean the filter after every single ride!  So knowing what you do now, what is the best recommendation to have the air all come through the cab instead of underneath the cab?  I had thought of drilling a 2" hole in the front of the plenum and blocking off the back one, then making it run through the grill, then block off all the holes in the grill.  Thoughts?

If I had to do it all over today,..I would do as others have and made a box out of 1/8" ABS sheet plastics that would seal off all air from behind the back cab plasitcs then replace the intake tube with 2.5" turbo pipe as I once did except..I would custom cut the front-facing side in a long angle..facing the grill. I would then just drop an Outerwears prefilter over it. I would loose the second filter I have and yes, I would have to clean the one in the air box way more often...but not after every ride at least. I do like filtering the CVT air out here as it stops all that BS build-up and worn parts...but it is a PITA cause the filter gets plugged very quickly sometimes. I'll keep what I have for now and eventually put the S&B on top...but it's getting pretty expensive and I still need another 400 for the S&B.   

For me I found by installing a vacuum gauge on the drain plug of the air box that the OE pipe alone had enough restriction to show on that gauge starting at 3800. Just putting the clean pre-filter bag over it that it comes with didn't increase the restriction but letting it get a little dirty did. And all the modifications I did to that pipe had no effect on restriction.. let alone installing all those filters I has ported to the bed-side....that plugged-up is just a few road miles. The only thing that stopped that was when I got rid of it completely and went with the 2.5" turbo pipe and fittings to the right side of the bed and adapted-out to the 3" and stacks. Then no matter what filter I put in the inline can, I never got any measurable vacuum level on the air box. So...with that said, anything you put on or over the end of that stick intake pipe will increase the resistance and make more vacuum on the box..and engine intake system. For now I would box it off in back and either run it with no pre-filter or just the bag. Getting all it's air through the cab and grill will be an amazing improvement all by itself...for the engine and filter life.

Ok, so I am ready to make a mod to the air system of mine, tired of having to clean the filter after every single ride!  So knowing what you do now, what is the best recommendation to have the air all come through the cab instead of underneath the cab?  I had thought of drilling a 2" hole in the front of the plenum and blocking off the back one, then making it run through the grill, then block off all the holes in the grill.  Thoughts?

If I had to do it all over today,..I would do as others have and made a box out of 1/8" ABS sheet plastics that would seal off all air from behind the back cab plasitcs then replace the intake tube with 2.5" turbo pipe as I once did except..I would custom cut the front-facing side in a long angle..facing the grill. I would then just drop an Outerwears prefilter over it. I would loose the second filter I have and yes, I would have to clean the one in the air box way more often...but not after every ride at least. I do like filtering the CVT air out here as it stops all that BS build-up and worn parts...but it is a PITA cause the filter gets plugged very quickly sometimes. I'll keep what I have for now and eventually put the S&B on top...but it's getting pretty expensive and I still need another 400 for the S&B.

Thanks so much!  Cutting cardboard as a prototype as I am typing this lol!

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

I was thinking about the crushed adapter issue and it seems to me that although one might get a piece of ABS or PVC to work, the best thing is to use something as thin to maximize the air flow yet be so strong you never have to worry about it ever again. As I built all my intake systems with 3" and 2.5" aluminum turbo/intercooler pipe, to me some 2.25" would be just the thing to use here. For like 8 bucks you can get a piece of 2.25" x almost 20" from amazon. Way more then necessary but one could find some use for the extra down the road somewhere...or sell some to a buddy with a Z Force. I might just head-off a potential problem and get one of these now.

https://www.amazon.com/Rodin-Intercooler-Straight-Thickness-Aluminum/dp/B08T88RG9V/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=2.25%22%2Bturbo%2Bpipe&qid=1623105417&sr=8-4&th=1

I ordered a shorth piece of aluminum with rolled ends from amazon to take place of the plastic piece, for now I installed a piece of pvc inside the tube so it wont colipase again while tightening filter. pn is HPS AJ400-225 description T6 Aluminium Joiner tubing with Bead roll 16 gauge 4"lenght 2.25 od ,0.065 wall thickness. that will cure that problem from ever happening again, and suggest it to others. Hopefully I haven't ruined the engine, 

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

I ordered a shorth piece of aluminum with rolled ends from amazon to take place of the plastic piece, for now I installed a piece of pvc inside the tube so it wont colipase again while tightening filter. pn is HPS AJ400-225 description T6 Aluminium Joiner tubing with Bead roll 16 gauge 4"lenght 2.25 od ,0.065 wall thickness. that will cure that problem from ever happening again, and suggest it to others. Hopefully I haven't ruined the engine, 

About how long is the OE adapter? I have that oversized filter so it has to stay snuged-up close. If memory serves it's like 3-4"s.

I didn't measure it but 3 to four inches seem about right, figure I can always cut one end, and it still be stronger that the original plastic piece, they offered that jointer pipe from 3 to 6inches in length, guy could just use a piece of exhaust tubing.