[NMKawierider]

Thanks for the help guys. I know how the CVT works. I have experience with my Yamaha Grizzly.  I don't really care about top end. It's cool to say, "Yeah, I can do 70," but that's not important to me. I chose the ZForce V-twin over the Yamaha Wolverine single for low end torque for mud tires instead of top end. The engine has plenty of power, but the clutching is all wrong for deep mud. I'll loose a lot of top end with big heavy mud tires anyway. I want to gain as much low and mid range as possible.

I don't have any experience with an adjustable secondary spring. Does it really make a big difference, or is it more of a fine tune mechanism? I guess I'll give it a try as soon as I get time.

One more question. Does the CVT cover have a reusable gasket or do I need to get a new one before I start?

It's re-useable. I just did mine. The secondary is a CV-Tec system which is a little different then what we are used to with Japanese systems. You don't change-out the spring for a stiffer one as you add load or get bigger tires, it twists and compresses as the clutch moves. The spring ends fit into holes on the cap and clutch body and there are like 4 positions on either end to work with. Yes, one spring can be set to use either 26" tires on trails or heavy 32" deep mud tires.

[Spaceman78]

Thanks. I was looking all over the net for stiffer secondary springs. I didn't know it was adjustable until I read it here. So does it work like A1 is the softest setting and D4 is the stiffest or is there more to it? I'll probably try it soon so I can put my mud tires on.

[NMKawierider]

Thanks. I was looking all over the net for stiffer secondary springs. I didn't know it was adjustable until I read it here. So does it work like A1 is the softest setting and D4 is the stiffest or is there more to it? I'll probably try it soon so I can put my mud tires on.

I'm sure it's something like that. I know the base has A-D (although I only say 3 holes on mine) and the cap has 1-4. I went from B/1 to B/2 and that was like going from a stock spring to an EPI Almond secondary.

[Spaceman78]

Thanks. I just hate the idea of taking it apart over and over to find the right setup. I'll seeif I can find some info on it.

[Spaceman78]

I was watching a video on youtube about changing the secondary spring. The guy didn't say what type of machine the clutch came off of, but it looked just like the CVTech one in the ZForces. It had 3 holes in the pulley and 4 holes in the helix. He had a chart to show the degrees of preload for the different holes. According to his chart, B is the lightest setting, A is next, and C is heaviest. The numbered holes go in order form 1 being lightest to 4 being heaviest. The amount of preload is proportional to the degrees you have to turn the clutch to line up the splines.

[NMKawierider]

I was watching a video on youtube about changing the secondary spring. The guy didn't say what type of machine the clutch came off of, but it looked just like the CVTech one in the ZForces. It had 3 holes in the pulley and 4 holes in the helix. He had a chart to show the degrees of preload for the different holes. According to his chart, B is the lightest setting, A is next, and C is heaviest. The numbered holes go in order form 1 being lightest to 4 being heaviest. The amount of preload is proportional to the degrees you have to turn the clutch to line up the splines.

That sounds right. I only counted three on the clutch too. And the order sounds right too. That chart and that video would be great to post here.

[Spaceman78]

I'm not good with computers. I don't know how to post it here. If you want to try, it's on youtube. I think it was called "Secondary Torsional Spring Install" or something similar to that.

[Spaceman78]

Sorry, it is called "Secondary Clutch Disassembly Clock" by badass03taco. What a screen name, huh?

[NMKawierider]

Here is the video. Yes, its just like what's in my Z8. I put the key in after I get it close but my compressor has more open area on top.

And here...again..is the chart. VERY helpful! Thanks for finding this video.

[Spaceman78]

No problem. Thanks for posting it.

[NMKawierider]

As I look at the chart the B2 position looks to be extreme for stock tires. I am taking mine out tomorrow with the new and larger 27" tires on it to see but my gut tells me I may want to drop- back to the A1 or C1 instead.

[NMKawierider]

Yep, in all situations except long steep dune climbs the B2 position with the 22g sliders is a bit overkill. If I had the 25g rollers it would be fine but I like what the sliders do for it so the next time I have it down I will step it back to probably the C1 position.

[Bpraim]

I bet you'll be back to 24g-25g weights and B2 soon.
The lower you go on the driven the faster the upshift and slower backshift.
22g is way to light.
That bike must be screaming before it even moves.
But everyone has there own preference.

[emersonsc]

I bet you'll be back to 24g-25g weights and B2 soon.
The lower you go on the driven the faster the upshift and slower backshift.
22g is way to light.
That bike must be screaming before it even moves.
But everyone has there own preference.

What is your recommended slider weight and spring settings?

I personally would like to see a little more on the hole shot, but with my current mods, speed also wouldnt be too bad. I'm topping out around 72-75, but I know at this point my clutching is holding it back

[NMKawierider]

I bet you'll be back to 24g-25g weights and B2 soon.
The lower you go on the driven the faster the upshift and slower backshift.
22g is way to light.
That bike must be screaming before it even moves.
But everyone has there own preference.

Oh we'll see. And no, the stall is the same. No changes to the wet clutch. This video I have the 26" tires on it but now I have the new 27s which is what I was gearing it for.