I replaced the Override switch which was a momentary type with a regular ON-OFF switch so I didn't need to hold it down enabling me to keep both hands on the wheel. I was hoping to use the CFM cover on this switch but it seems there is a slight difference that won't let me...easily that is.
If you do this please know that it is a safety feature not to have full RPM in reverse and in diff-loc. It is also hard on the front diff to be turning at speed so remember to shut it off when you are out of the situation that required it. There is a warning ICON on the dash to help you remember.
Also, I elected not to use the ON position LED as it would use power from the control circuit which is not 12 volts but 10.4 volts that the ECU expect to be grounded or not. Adding a load to it may not be received well by the ECU and besides, the LED would not be full brightness anyway. I did use the regular dash LED like the OE switch had though.
This is the switch I used because it had a white LED:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NZU40D0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&pscThis is how I wired it:
And a final pic:
UPDATE 9/17/16:I was able to put the OE switch cover onto the new switch body after all. I must have had it miss-aligned when out of the panel. Now it looks like the original switch, just stays on when clicked.
UPDATE 9/28/16Had the chance to test this today. Works great. One notation though,
it does not effect the limiter for reverse. Only the Diff-lock. Still, it was nice to just switch it on and go. It made climbing long steep sandy hills a breeze.