[RedZ1K]

I think I'm gonna relocate my battery to the spot under the seat, at least until I pick up a second battery and isolator.  Just wondering what I need for supplies?  I think I saw somewhere that all that was required is a longer positive cable, can anyone who's done this confirm?  How long, and what gauge did you use?  I'm at work atm and have access to lots of cable, just want to get the proper size, and proper terminals.  Thanks!

[NMKawierider]

There are two positive leads-one main starter cable that runs to the starter solenoid, which you can just measure per the rout you want to take, then there is the accessory circuit which is about a #8g lead with the 30 amp fuse. That one you may want to just extend however that fuse is in the compartment just behind the Ax battery box and you may be able to just re-rout that. The ground or negative if like the 800s runs to the front of the engine case and is on one of the CVT cover bolts so that one can be re-routed.

Cable size: You can pull up to 150 amps through #6 Gauge (AWG) at 4.4 feet long so I would consider that.

One other thing to consider- that basket that hangs down on that side covers the Ax battery box and is prone to impacts...as is the one on the other side protecting the tank. I don't have to worry about mine cause I made steel belly armor that covers those but...might consider something for yours. I say that because I had to spend time banging mine back out from rock impacts they ..used to..take.   

[RedZ1K]

Oof yeah that's actually a good point about those baskets, I hadn't thought about that.  Mine aren't bent up yet but my factory skidplate is already getting broken so maybe I should wait a bit and just do the second battery instead.  A proper skidplate is on the list already.

Reason I want to relocate, a bunch of us were out on an all day run a couple weeks ago, we were stopped for a break that night and I left my key on for a bit with the lights on just for ambient light.  Turned out we were there longer than I thought and my battery went dead.  Was a bit of a pain in the ass to get to it to boost it (although actually a lot easier to get clamps on than the Teryx4 that we used to boost me, and his battery isn't even covered up, just in a tight spot under the front end).  Thought about doing remote battery lugs too, but maybe I'll just wait for a bit.  I did learn not to leave the lights on like that. 

[NMKawierider]

Oof yeah that's actually a good point about those baskets, I hadn't thought about that.  Mine aren't bent up yet but my factory skidplate is already getting broken so maybe I should wait a bit and just do the second battery instead.  A proper skidplate is on the list already.

Reason I want to relocate, a bunch of us were out on an all day run a couple weeks ago, we were stopped for a break that night and I left my key on for a bit with the lights on just for ambient light.  Turned out we were there longer than I thought and my battery went dead.  Was a bit of a pain in the ass to get to it to boost it (although actually a lot easier to get clamps on than the Teryx4 that we used to boost me, and his battery isn't even covered up, just in a tight spot under the front end).  Thought about doing remote battery lugs too, but maybe I'll just wait for a bit.  I did learn not to leave the lights on like that. 

And just so you know..leaving the key on and not running is the #1 cause of ECM failures..and coil burn outs. Not a good idea. Next time you need to jump it just put the ground clamp on the frame anywhere then if you look on the frame high just behind the battery cover you will see the starter relay, The positive cable goes to it..just get the right one cause the wrong one goes to the starter..which..it will just turn over if it gets power. I was thnking of pulling the cable and installing an L bracket to clip a jumper cable to easy..you know..just in case.