Hello everyone. So i did a general search and just cant find the answers I am looking for sadly. I typed in "oil"
and other oil issues come up instead of what oil to use in a change.

I was wondering what you guys use for

front diff oil change
rear diff oil change
transmission oil change
engine oil change

can I use the same stuff as polaris 570 oils?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Well, you will find lots of different answers and preferences but what ever meets the manual's specs are always the best choice. For the engine and transmission (as they are shared), after full break-in most of us go to a synthetic oil as close to the weights shown in the manual for the temps and..most important, they meet the JASO MA rating for the wet clutch. You can use anything from 0w40 to 15w40. It is not recommended to use a heavier oil then the 40. I use the Castrol Power RS or Power1 Racing 4T 10W40 but there are many other good oils out there including some meant for use in diesel engines that people do use.

As for the differential and gear case, as I remember, the book calls for 80W90 or motor oil depending on the temp conditions. I choose to use a synthetic 75W-90 just because the sling starts at a slower speed cold off the ring gear then with the 80. I use Valvoline Synthetic 75W-90 but there are many others out there.

Rotella 5-40

I personally do not recommend running a 15W in any modern engine there no reason to have such a thick oil on start up seems to be ancient technology if you ask me. I personally run Rotella T6 in all my machines, seems good. There's plenty to choose from as NMK said I would just run a lower W number 0-10W-40 they are all the same once at operating temp, the lower W number just means it will flow easier when cold meaning you'll get oil pressure to all your parts faster on cold starts.

I ran 15w-40 Rotella for a couple years never had any trouble, it's fairly cheap and easy to find. But I've recently changed to Castrol conventional 10w-40.

Diffs I use Lucas Synthetic SAE75w-90.

Looking thru my just purchased Z 800, owners manual, for engine oil, it says 15W-40 SG, says nothing about the JASO MA requirement. Anybody talk to CF about that in the past?

Jim

It's a common subject for sure.

API SG is suitable for wet clutches, which is what Jaso MA is all about.

API SG went obsolete in 1993 and can be difficult to find in any weight. I can only find it in motorcycle labeled oils.

So lacking general API SG availability, look for Jaso MA rated oils. Motorcycle and ATV labeled oils are more common for this rating.  And avoid any API oils indicating "energy conserve" or equivalent, as the extra modifiers are no bueno for wet clutches.

How often should the oil be changed? I did the first oil change at 268 miles and it's just over 600 miles now. I'm sure it's due just wanted to get a solid number on how often to change it in the future. Also how often should the diff oil be changed?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Going to be a little different for every application. Some will need it every 3-500 miles where others every 800-1200+. I like to do mine when I start seeing enough color change that says "Used Oil" which in mine with what I use is around 600-800 miles. I think its wise to do the diffs at least twice in the first 500 miles then every other oil change there after and if it starts to be clean then maybe go every third oil change. I have one diff that's making non-magnetic flakes so I'll be doing it more often right now. I'm sure someday it will let me know what's being "ground-down" but for now it gets fresh lube every 200 miles or so. 

Nmk, is the non magnetic material coming from the front diff? If so is it copper on color?  I found my spider gears thrust washers installed wrong from the factory. 

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Nmk, is the non magnetic material coming from the front diff? If so is it copper on color?  I found my spider gears thrust washers installed wrong from the factory. 

Nope..it's in the rear. Oil looks like automotive matalic paint after a few hundred miles. Shiny like..aluminum. I can wave a magnet around in the oil and get nothing..so I have to "assume" it's aluminum  from the case..I guess. I'm getting more and more backlash/play on the pinion..and more clunking from it.. so I'm thinking a race on one of the pinion bearings or carrier is spinning in the case. If it is, the case is shot now anyway so I'll play it out.