CFMoto-Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: NMKawierider on January 25, 2016, 05:19:38 PM
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In this thread you can post anything you have done for.. or to.. your CFMoto machine. Doesn't matter what it is or what machine. It can be as simple as regular maintenance and findings to the addition of accessories such as light bars, doors, heated grips, boxes...anything. Photos are always welcome.
I'll start. Not too exciting, just gave mine it's second engine oil change. Put 325 miles on this one. Looked like it had been in there for 800. Hope the next one looks better. I think after this one I'll try a wet clutch compatible synthetic. It only has 475 miles on it now.
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Loaded my CF500 onto the trailer ready to go weed spraying at a friends place daylight tomorrow morning.
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My Z Force 800 is sitting in a cold dark garage while I have to be in Florida riding my Honda Goldwing all winter! :( :P
I know, my bad! :o
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This is how I setup my quad for the riding I do. First, I added a rear cargo box. Then I installed a light bar to the front. Next install was a front cargo box. Then I attached my axe and knife. GPS and storage bag came next. Needed tunes, so I installed a marine radio and speakers. Welded up a gas can carrier and attached it to the tow hitch. Also added a light to the rear. To keep my hands warm I installed a set of grips and thumb warmer. Camoplast tracks for the winter months, and a few other goodies for on the trails.
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Now that's decked-out! Nice Tracstar!
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Well set up. Mind if I pinch a couple of your ideas?
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Installed SuperATV's 2 inch lift. Compressing the springs with ratchet straps was a huge pain in the ass. Spring compressor kit didn't work cause it was too big. If you have a better way of doing it, I suggest you do so. Otherwise be prepared to fight those springs for a few hours.
Anyway I kept the shocks at their stock setting, and I gotta say I was pleasantly surprised with the ride. I was noticeably stiffer but not nearly as bad as I thought it was gonna be.
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Added a 24" LED light bar last night. Still need to finish up the wiring and find a good location for the switch, already used the 2 slots in the dash for the stereo and whip.
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Added a 24" LED light bar last night. Still need to finish up the wiring and find a good location for the switch, already used the 2 slots in the dash for the stereo and whip.
Nice. I was thinking about a 24" for mine as well.
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Added a second led whip and wired them into the running light wire on the trailer plug in, now they are on the main light switch. Did some more cleaning, can't wait for better weather so I can ride out in the mountains.
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Added a second led whip and wired them into the running light wire on the trailer plug in, now they are on the main light switch. Did some more cleaning, can't wait for better weather so I can ride out in the mountains.
Post a pic man I'd love to see that.
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Didn't want to light up the earth so figured 24" would be plenty for cruising at night around the farm. Most of the parks close by don't allow night rides unless it's a special ride.
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Didn't want to light up the earth so figured 24" would be plenty for cruising at night around the farm. Most of the parks close by don't allow night rides unless it's a special ride.
Yeah I would think that would be plenty of light...and not tax the heck out of the stator.
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Should clearify a few things. The first led whip was to big, did like it. Went with two 3 ft whips and reused the led lights I had. Still is very bright. Just looks better with two. Will post a pic when I get a chance.
As for the night rides, spend some of the time in the national forest. So I dont worry about it closing. I have gone to an atv park close by and it is always busy. They don't require flags on atvs or motorcycles, that should be changed IMO
Anyway love the forum always good info here
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Today I modified the throttle peddle to fit the foot a little better and increased the arm's return spring's preload to ease the fatiguing of the leg from always holding the foot up. I also checked the main fuses which seem clean and dry...all looks good.
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I'm making a windshield frame to put in a laminated glass windshield and electric wipers
:-\ andy
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Andy , can you post some Pictures
:)
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:)i,ll try to upload some pictures dave
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I installed a stereo system in my z6 today I used an amp I got on amazon and some wake tower speakers. I also ran a fuse panel and put it in the storage area up front.
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:)i,ll try to upload some pictures dave
Also interested in pictures.
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I installed a stereo system in my z6 today I used an amp I got on amazon and some wake tower speakers. I also ran a fuse panel and put it in the storage area up front.
By chance did you use BlueSea's fuse block? I did and that damn thing drains my battery.
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I installed a stereo system in my z6 today I used an amp I got on amazon and some wake tower speakers. I also ran a fuse panel and put it in the storage area up front.
By chance did you use BlueSea's fuse block? I did and that damn thing drains my battery.
No I didn't but it is similar. The fuse block shouldn't drain your battery by itself. What do you have hooked up to it?
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2 days ago finally got a decent day of weather to have my ride washed. Currently shopping for a led light bar. Think I will be going with a 540w 36" Cree led light bar.
I plan on doing some night rides this year.
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Think I will be going with a 540w 36" Cree led light bar.
May want to re-think that. 540 watts converts to 43 amps. I don't think the stator has that ability/extra. Look for 300w or less. JMO :)
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I installed a stereo system in my z6 today I used an amp I got on amazon and some wake tower speakers. I also ran a fuse panel and put it in the storage area up front.
By chance did you use BlueSea's fuse block? I did and that damn thing drains my battery.
No I didn't but it is similar. The fuse block shouldn't drain your battery by itself. What do you have hooked up to it?
Could be a number of things then. I have a 24 inch light bar, two cube lights, and a 6 inch for reverse. And a wet sounds stealth 10 sound bar. chances are its that. I've since added a second battery. One battery just couldn't power all that stuff. I died out on the trails a couple of times :(
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I installed a stereo system in my z6 today I used an amp I got on amazon and some wake tower speakers. I also ran a fuse panel and put it in the storage area up front.
By chance did you use BlueSea's fuse block? I did and that damn thing drains my battery.
No I didn't but it is similar. The fuse block shouldn't drain your battery by itself. What do you have hooked up to it?
Could be a number of things then. I have a 24 inch light bar, two cube lights, and a 6 inch for reverse. And a wet sounds stealth 10 sound bar. chances are its that. I've since added a second battery. One battery just couldn't power all that stuff. I died out on the trails a couple of times :(
Sound bar have a switch or is it on all the time
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So this is how I currently have my audio set up in my 800ex. But you can never have too much sound and one thing that I need is bass. So I have decided to add two..yes two 8 inch subwoofers. If we had the luxury of more space under the console, I would add them there. But space is tight and I want to keep them out of the mud as much as possible. So I took some measurements this evening and decided to make an add on which will fit under the roof and use the existing roof mounts to anchor it down. I am also going to ditch the infinity bluetooth radio and add a second Kenwood bluetooth amp to the existing setup. If everything goes as plan..Ill be running two 8 inch subs, 2 6x9s, and 2 6.5 speakers. Not sure what I'll do with the tweeters...since I'll have two open channels...may keep them, or buy two new 3.5-4 inch speakers. While I was at the lumbar yard, I picked up an extra sheet of ply to make a custom cargo box as well.
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Pulled the radiator out to give it a bath.
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Pulled the air filter.... :-\ read Cfmoto forum posts... shopped amazon.com bought 2 UNI AIR's :o
****update 4/25/16**** Uni Air Filter Installed, PM Service completed, Cf Moto's front brush guard & new front shocks ordered, and finally my led light bar arrived.
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Hey guys, added a set of 29 inch bighorns and clocked the secondary to the c1 position.
Also added a set of rodens doors.
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Nice additions flash. I'm also like'n where you mounted the light bar. 8)
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Thanks NMK, makes me feel proud.
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Went to the local dealer and picked up a new right foot well for my CF500 to replace the original I caught the edge of on the shed door backing out last month. I riveted it back together with aluminium strip and pop rivets as a temporary fix, then last time at the farm a small log got jammed under the guard and broke a bigger piece out of it. Ordered last Thursday and arrived today Tuesday. Great service from local bloke. :D
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I have only added a 22" light bar and some blue and white flashing LED's. I also changed to a uni air filter. The stock one fell apart. I kept hearing this rattle in that area so I opened the air box up and the closed end of the stock air filter came out of there!! I was not impressed.
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I have only added a 22" light bar and some blue and white flashing LED's. I also changed to a uni air filter. The stock one fell apart. I kept hearing this rattle in that area so I opened the air box up and the closed end of the stock air filter came out of there!! I was not impressed.
Man I hope you caught it soon enough. This is the thing that kills more CFM engines then about anything else. Even a brand new intact stock filter lets 6-micron and small partials by...all the time...let alone when the end cap comes off...and yours is not the first to loose an end cap. That's why we strongly recommend everyone have a UniFilter or TwinAir ready to install the second you get your new machine home or...have the dealer install one before picking it up. DON'T run it with the factory filter...at all.
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I have only added a 22" light bar and some blue and white flashing LED's. I also changed to a uni air filter. The stock one fell apart. I kept hearing this rattle in that area so I opened the air box up and the closed end of the stock air filter came out of there!! I was not impressed.
Man I hope you caught it soon enough. This is the thing that kills more CFM engines then about anything else. Even a brand new intact stock filter lets 6-micron and small partials by...all the time...let alone when the end cap comes off...and yours is not the first to loose an end cap. That's why we strongly recommend everyone have a UniFilter or TwinAir ready to install the second you get your new machine home or...have the dealer install one before picking it up. DON'T run it with the factory filter...at all.
I think I did as I only had a few miles on it and they were in the woods only going about 25 mph or so. It runs better with the uni filter. It seems like it is more responsive?
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It runs better with the uni filter. It seems like it is more responsive?
It will. They do like clean, cool air.
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Finally got around to installing the secondary winch switch. Don't have to have the big remote out all the time now.
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Finally got factory mirrors off and this rear view mirror installed.
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Finished installing my new SATV Split windshield. Turned-out pretty good.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BFFreak_2008/slideshow/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/SATV%20Windshield
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2016 800 ex eps
added scissor jack, windshield, GPS, 32 inch LED light bar
removed silly mud flaps
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Went to the local dealer and picked up a new right foot well for my CF500 to replace the original I caught the edge of on the shed door backing out last month. I riveted it back together with aluminium strip and pop rivets as a temporary fix, then last time at the farm a small log got jammed under the guard and broke a bigger piece out of it. Ordered last Thursday and arrived today Tuesday. Great service from local bloke. :D
You should get a skid plate for that beast ;) SPOP.SE
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Custom rad relocate and snorkels for our Uforce as you can see we mud this thing lots :o
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I was having an issue with my shifter alignment. My indicator lights were not lighting properly, and the detents were off. I removed the rear panels and driveshaft tunnel to access the shift rod. I simply loosened the 2 locknuts and gave the rod a turn or two. I applied a liberal coat of Copa-Slip MolySlip to the threads and tightened every thing up. Now the shifting is smooth and lights are accurate. I could not believe that amount of mud that had built up under the panels.
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NMK, I like your new location for your tablet. Hope it works better for you in that location.
Karmis, you would NEVER consider those 'silly' if you ran thru the mud covered trails we have here in PA. I am definitely getting mud flaps for my 800 Trail, and also doors to cut down on mud/rocks flying into the cab as much as I can.
Berzerk1, we've had a few posts here regarding that exact same issue. I think this deserves a proper backyard mechanic fix for it, but short of a rubber 'boot' to fit around that linkage, or maybe a plastic flexible square 'skid plate' to deflect some of that mud, I have nothing else to offer.
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Changed over the broken footwell on my CF500. The photo shows the 1/2" thick plastic under shield I fitted.
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Whilst doing a service I found the foam aircleaner had started to split. I washed it clean and reglued. Fortunately the inner foam was still holding together or I might have had some trouble with the fine dust we get around here.
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From lack of anything better to do I though I would re-visit the CVT intake system as I had some new thoughts on where to install the box. Pulled it all back apart, took some test measurements and as it showed it might work, started to make adjustments to the box to fit the new area which was straight above the intake pipe as it comes around the frame. Had to make some angle changes to the box and plastic-weld it back together:
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Misc%20Moto%20Pics/DSC05837_zpssfasml63.jpg)
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Misc%20Moto%20Pics/DSC05835_zps3wchw4pz.jpg)
Then it was time to get serious and cut the intake tube and the hole in the back plastic. Before I did that I needed to see what a new intake tube was going to cost me. 48 bucks plus shipping so...about 60 bucks. Hmmm...Then I had to ask myself three questions
1. Is this going to help or hurt the value of this UTV. The answer was "hurt the value".
2. Can I rest assured the connection between the box and the CVT intake will never have a problem even on the roughest of trails. And the answer was "NO".
3. Do I really need this? Are my clutches being damaged as it is now? And the answer was NO, the filters I use work pretty well.
So, with those answers I talked myself out of doing this and put it all back together with the surface filter. So it wasn't a total loss I decided to put the spring from the Unifilter I got for the CVT into my TwinAir which is what I run in the airbox. Always thought it should have one anyway. It's been about 300 miles sense I opened up the airbox anyway and wanted to see how it was doing with the second filter on top...which I have cleaned several times over that 300 miles. I was delighted to see it was as clean in there as it was when I closed it up some 300 miles ago. Not even dust on the box interior surface and the filter as clean as it could be.
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Misc%20Moto%20Pics/DSC05830_zpscmvitnpn.jpg)
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Misc%20Moto%20Pics/DSC05829_zpsrhfolnoo.jpg)
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Misc%20Moto%20Pics/DSC05831_zpsntm7ldoe.jpg)
And I not sure if its because I opened up the intake tube end from 1.9" to 3" for the mushroom filter making less vacuum on the box, but I am not even getting oil vapor from the engine down the vent tube where I was before:
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Misc%20Moto%20Pics/DSC05832_zpsfkui9wb0.jpg)
So the TwinAir got a full cleaning and servicing anyway and now has a Uni spring inside to keep it from being sucked-shut when it gets really caked-up....yeah, like that's going to happen....lol. I don't think I'll be checking the TwinAir for a while. :)
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Because of the extra weight I thought I would try the next higher position on the secondary clocking-A2 before taking measures toward lighting it back up. It was fine in all conditions except in deep sand and in sandy hill climbs where the sand would rob enough power that the RPMs would fall well below the power curve. That and on B2 it would not backshift far or fast enough to stay on top of it. A2 helped a lot in that regard and still have adequate top end at 62-63..ish, although it seems to top out well before the rev limiter...and I don't know why. The top end would be much better if it would but it just stops accelerating about 63. It used to hit the limiter on B1 & C1. I need to look into that at some point.
Here's video on that test ride. It also have a sneak-peek of my 2017 intro and exit. :)
Some bonus footage- Jogon30 taking it for a quick spin:
Not a valid vimeo URL
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I really need to pull up my pants man !!! Or tighten up on the belt I'm getting to old for quads. Lol
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I really need to pull up my pants man !!! Or tighten up on the belt I'm getting to old for quads. Lol
At least you still have what it takes to ride a machine like a banshee. That's one wicked machine.
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Well, the cat will be out of the bag sometime so might as well be now. I bought Jogon30's Russian doors for mine. They look much better and weigh half as much as the others. Some pics:
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Photo%20shoot%2010%201%2016/DSC05891_zpseu0ru9ex.jpg)
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Photo%20shoot%2010%201%2016/DSC05893_zpsczefavvk.jpg)
I also got a new filter for the airbox but I need the adaptor to get here first. It's a Uni dual stage, it has a 3" flange, its 5"s in diameter and the filter area is 8"s long. The total length is like 10"s. It will fit in the box with a little end contact. For now I adjusted the interior support cage to allow it to compress to the 7.5"s I have between the storage box and the intake, then wrapped it with a new water resistant outerwears prefilter. I'll call it my extreme external for now. A pic:
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Photo%20shoot%2010%201%2016/DSC05896_zps04fwlner.jpg)
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Looks Awesome!!! Kinda figured you bought them. I was actually going to ask why you didn't get the stuff off his when I saw he got the Yamaha.
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Well, the cat will be out of the bag sometime so might as well be now. I bought Jogon30's Russian doors for mine. They look much better and weigh half as much as the others. Some pics:
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Photo%20shoot%2010%201%2016/DSC05891_zpseu0ru9ex.jpg)
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Photo%20shoot%2010%201%2016/DSC05893_zpsczefavvk.jpg)
I also got a new filter for the airbox but I need the adaptor to get here first. It's a Uni dual stage, it has a 3" flange, its 5"s in diameter and the filter area is 8"s long. The total length is like 10"s. It will fit in the box with a little end contact. For now I adjusted the interior support cage to allow it to compress to the 7.5"s I have between the storage box and the intake, then wrapped it with a new water resistant outerwears prefilter. I'll call it my extreme external for now. A pic:
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Photo%20shoot%2010%201%2016/DSC05896_zps04fwlner.jpg)
Look wicked!! Now your going to have to re clock that clutch lol agian man I forgot how dang heavy them homemade doors were nuts my buddy has no idea hehehe maybe you can help me reclock his clutch so I don't feel guilty lol
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Look wicked!! Now your going to have to re clock that clutch lol agian man I forgot how dang heavy them homemade doors were nuts my buddy has no idea hehehe maybe you can help me reclock his clutch so I don't feel guilty lol
That's funny cause I was just thinking I would probably go back to B2 the next time I was in there. I'd be happy to re-clock his clutch. If he has just the doors and rides Southern a lot, then B2 is probably the right spot for most anything he needs.
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Looks Awesome!!! Kinda figured you bought them. I was actually going to ask why you didn't get the stuff off his when I saw he got the Yamaha.
After I saw you had talked to him about the doors I felt a little guilty...
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Lol , don't feel guilty, I was just bustin his b@!!$
Have to make sure mine is running correctly first.
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2016 800 ex eps
added scissor jack, windshield, GPS, 32 inch LED light bar
removed silly mud flaps
Karmis
Would you be interested in selling your fender flares?
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Finally got factory mirrors off and this rear view mirror installed.
gwingo12
any interest in selling mirrors?
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Because of the extra weight I thought I would try the next higher position on the secondary clocking-A2 before taking measures toward lighting it back up. It was fine in all conditions except in deep sand and in sandy hill climbs where the sand would rob enough power that the RPMs would fall well below the power curve. That and on B2 it would not backshift far or fast enough to stay on top of it. A2 helped a lot in that regard and still have adequate top end at 62-63..ish, although it seems to top out well before the rev limiter...and I don't know why. The top end would be much better if it would but it just stops accelerating about 63. It used to hit the limiter on B1 & C1. I need to look into that at some point.
Here's video on that test ride. It also have a sneak-peek of my 2017 intro and exit. :)
Some bonus footage- Jogon30 taking it for a quick spin:
Not a valid vimeo URL
Curious if you have gone lighter with the primary weight. your weight may be to heavy to overcome the secondary spring tension and hit max rpm
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Curious if you have gone lighter with the primary weight. your weight may be to heavy to overcome the secondary spring tension and hit max rpm
Well, yes I do run the 22 gram sliders in the primary over the OE 25 gram. That has never been a problem for me or anyone hitting the rev limiter nor had any setting on the secondary...but..it is interesting that after going to A2 and adding the windshield, it has a problem getting to the limiter in a reasonable time frame. Now that I have lighter doors I may go back to B2 next time I'm in there and see if that makes a difference. However, the low end performance of A2 is still what I need in the sand and desert. It will however.. be overkill in the mountains.
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Curious if you have gone lighter with the primary weight. your weight may be to heavy to overcome the secondary spring tension and hit max rpm
Well, yes I do run the 22 gram sliders in the primary over the OE 25 gram. That has never been a problem for me or anyone hitting the rev limiter nor had any setting on the secondary...but..it is interesting that after going to A2 and adding the windshield, it has a problem getting to the limiter in a reasonable time frame. Now that I have lighter doors I may go back to B2 next time I'm in there and see if that makes a difference. However, the low end performance of A2 is still what I need in the sand and desert. It will however.. be overkill in the mountains.
yea sounds like you would need to lighten to b2 to get max rpm or lower weight on front. Or on a snowmobile you could change spring weight in primary, but idk if you can on these? Haven't done it yet
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Changed the oils out today in the differential and gear case. The front looked clean and normal but the rear had more metal, both steel and aluminum then I would have expected. May not be a problem but I always said it ran very loose and noisy. I guess time will tell.
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Went from a single 6' whip to duals. Put in a SuperATV rear trunk. Got a 50w radio that runs on FRS channels and has a FM tuner as well. Changed out the high beams with red LEDs.
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Cool. Looks great. How close to the back of the bed does the trunk get would you say? I have that air filter in that rounded-out area.
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Cool. Looks great. How close to the back of the bed does the trunk get would you say? I have that air filter in that rounded-out area.
2-3". It actually shoves my snorkel back to where in grate in the cab is pushed out slightly. Doesn't bother me though. Its got a hefty weather seal and mounts directly to the bed. Well worth the money
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Cool. Looks great. How close to the back of the bed does the trunk get would you say? I have that air filter in that rounded-out area.
2-3". It actually shoves my snorkel back to where in grate in the cab is pushed out slightly. Doesn't bother me though. Its got a hefty weather seal and mounts directly to the bed. Well worth the money
Ok, thanks. Sounds like a great trunk.
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Really want to change both high and low beams to LED. So you just changed the bulb? Nothing special needed done?
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Really want to change both high and low beams to LED. So you just changed the bulb? Nothing special needed done?
nothing at all. That utilize the same bulb base.
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Thanks to Chad for the recommendation on the perfect isolator. Installed along with my 2nd battery, all under the driver seat. Also attached a pic of the speaker pod from SuperATV I had put in.
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Just ordered the SATV rear windshield. Great deal today and free shipping.
http://www.superatv.com/CFMOTO-ZForce-800EX-Scratch-Resistant-Rear-Windshield-P11591C1769.aspx
The only draw-back for me is that I will have to get different harness brackets and relocate the rear light. But if it works as well as my friend's rear windshield he has on his RzR, I should see a great reduction in dust in the cab when the windshield is down running down roads and some reduction in noise.
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I made mine. And I can tell you that it does save a lot of dust, mud, and debri from comin in.
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The small pieces you see on the bottom of the rear glass ( bottom left & bottom right )
Are these........https://www.ebay.com/itm/201467737903
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Cool. Look'n forward to less dust pouring in from the back.
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My SATV rear windshield came in and got it all installed. Had to change harness clamps and relocate the rear light...and adjust a couple of other things but its all good. Time to Ride! Here's some pics:
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BFFreak_2008/slideshow/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Rear%20windshield
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Hey guys, look what my beautiful wife got me for Christmas .
Am I a lucky guy or what ? Rear rival bumper and front and rear super atv
high clearance a-arms...
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Nice!
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Buy that woman a big bunch of flowers.
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Nice!! Yeah treat her well!!
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Replaced the CFMOTO four points harnesses with a set of four point Pro Armor harnesses (2 inch). I had to use a dremel tool with a grinding disk to enlarge the holes on the Pro Armor mounting brackets so the stock bolts would fit, also had to add a washer to increase the stock spacer at the mounting points. The Pro Armor harness have two pockets, one that fits a cell phone and the other a mesh pocket which came with a flashlight. A way better fit and comfortable system over the stock harnesses.
(http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p629/cfmotocdn/DSCN8875_zpsmqgxyqim.jpg) (http://s1159.photobucket.com/user/cfmotocdn/media/DSCN8875_zpsmqgxyqim.jpg.html)
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Ordered my sound system, Cabellas had a two day sale. Regular price was $169.99 and I got it for $69.99
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A while back I was trying several different filters on the intake mostly so I could have my piece of mind when out there in the talc and gypsum dust that nothing can get through. I started with a twinair in the box and it worked well except with no interior support under the right conditions it "could" suck-shut..but never did so I installed this huge 5"x8" Unifilter in the box.
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/New%20air%20filter/DSC05908_zpsot7f9q9l.jpg) (http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BFFreak_2008/media/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/New%20air%20filter/DSC05908_zpsot7f9q9l.jpg.html)
Then going through several different "Top" filters from one workling well but not lasting long enough to one lasting forever but not stopping everything, I decided to end the issues and just put another large 5"x6" Unifilter on top with a water resistant Outerwears prefilter over it. Now..in my mind at least..I have the best... backed up by.. the best.
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/New%20air%20filter/DSC06133_zps3qvqr6o6.jpg) (http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BFFreak_2008/media/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/New%20air%20filter/DSC06133_zps3qvqr6o6.jpg.html)
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That's alot of filters, nothing should get by.
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That's alot of filters, nothing should get by.
Yeah..it's overkill for sure but at least I can say I've done my best to protect it. "It's better to have and not need...then to need...and not have"
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Today I added a full skid plate to my zforce 800ex eps. Ready for some rougher terrain.
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Replaced the CFMOTO four points harnesses with a set of four point Pro Armor harnesses (2 inch). The Pro Armor harness have two pockets, one that fits a cell phone and the other a mesh pocket which came with a flashlight. A way better fit and comfortable system over the stock harnesses.
I have the red ones on my Amazon wish list. Was hoping to hold off until June to buy them after spending over $700 this Xmas on parts for my SxS. What chafes my hide is not paying $190 for 2 harnesses, but for paying $159 for a harness bar that is basically a 1.75" round pipe 48" in length. I am buying that size pipe from a local metal shop and adding 2 Tusk rollcage clamps that total $18 for both. Total cost should be under $50, so yea, the harness bars are a huge rip-off.
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Clutches have been taken off, clocking to B2. I got excited and have now ordered 29x9 and 29x11 dirt commanders and 23g dr pulley sliders as well. I may redo the intake tube this weekend as well. We'll see how motivated i get.
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I have lost track of all the stuff I have done to mine LOL. But right now im plotting and planning on a turbo for mine LOL.
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With a reminder from FB about the pre-2016 coolants jelling and even though mine never did show any signs of it, I decided today that I better just be on the safe side and change it out. Easy enough to do. Getting all the air out took a little longer then expected but..now I can rest easy on the coolant-thing.
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What coolant did you go with, may be a good idea to do mine since the weather is getting warmer and she is a year old now.
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What coolant did you go with, may be a good idea to do mine since the weather is getting warmer and she is a year old now.
In everything else I just use Prestone but when mine was leaking at the water pump weep, I bought a couple of gallons of this Peak because it was green and compatible with the what it had. Still had over a gallon of that so I just used it and distilled water to take it to about 50/50. I pulled the small access skid plate and made a little "V" channel to set in there to catch the coolant and guide it to the drain pan. It all come out except a little in the lines but just jacking up the front end with the radiator cap off will get that. It took quite a while to get all the air out so run it quite a while with the cap off before closing it up.
http://peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-coolants/automotive/long-life-full-strength/
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I ran Engine Ice in my King Quad and I haven't heard of anyone using that in a SxS, but I'd love to give it a try in mine. Just hate to be the ONLY guy running a certain brand. I did clean out my air filter for the first time this year - it had a tiny bit of dust on the inside of the airbox, but overall I was very surprised how little dust was in there. I cleaned and oiled both the pre-filter and canister filter (Uni makes the stock filters and cages for AC) and tightened it back up for another 6 months before I check it again.
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Primped and polished it for about 4 hours, myself and 3 RZR's I registered us to ride in the MayDay parade, over a week of not riding in an effort to keep it clean, we got rained out and parade cancelled. So we went riding. 4 hours of detailing gone it 30 seconds. Well. We will try again next year.
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Got tired of changing my battery on my GoPro every 20 minutes when the WiFi is on...and every 40 minutes with it off so I bought a battery by-pass for it that ties into the vehicle's battery. The only thing is, if it plugged into a keyed outlet like we have, if you shut the key off while recording, you loose your video...so it needs to be on a constant 12v power source. Bought a marine-grade receptacle, mounted center between the seats and put it on a 20 amp fuse right off the battery. Now I can run the camera and the Go Pro app on the tablet that controls it remotely and not worry about batteries. Also now I have a place I can plug in my spot light without blowing a fuse.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMQFCC8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/12V%20power%20outlet/DSC06175_zpslzsounh2.jpg) (http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BFFreak_2008/media/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/12V%20power%20outlet/DSC06175_zpslzsounh2.jpg.html)
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Installed my Rear Rival bumper. Installed a dash mounted winch rocker switch. Installed a front 13inch LED bar with Rocker switch. In the process of mounting the rear light bar and two 4 inch LEDs on the sides to complete the lighting (until further notice)
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After seeing prices on back seat setups, decided to build my own. Wanting storage incorporated as well in the base I built a wooden 2X10 frame, plywood bottom and lid. Lid is reinforced with aluminum angle, and fixed with heavy duty gate hinges, and some compression lock latches. Sealed the lid with some self stick refrigerator type rubber gasket, to keep out dust and water. Coated it all with some spray on truck bed liner, which sealed the wood well and gave it a much less slippery surface.
The box attaches to the bed for easy removal, with some fabricated slide in front connections, and some small turnbuckles in the rear to lock it in place. The seat then fastens to the box lid in similar fashion, secure but quickly and easily removable from the box. The seat is a WISE folding bench seat, ($160.00) a little weak with a 1/2 " plywood bottom and back, but easily bolstered with some extra plywood. All made for under about $300.00.
Planned to finish it off is a roll cage addition, (which will also help support the seat back) with quick disconnects to the existing roll bar for tilting the bed, and a soft top on the cage add on for a cover, and seat belts.
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started clutch project on my zforce 800 got secondary all done and back in waiting on dr. pulley slides to finish made all the tools to hold everything to loosen and torque.
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Kinda boring I know .... but completed my 100 mile first oil change.
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Kinda boring I know .... but completed my 100 mile first oil change.
Nothing wrong with that...its a solid "mile-marker" :)
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finished up clutch project on my 2016 z800 thanks to all your help now on to figuring out what tires i want to get.
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Added turn signals to my machine. Now I am road legal, at least here in Washington County Indiana.
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Just reclocked the clutch back to B2. Won't be as good in the dunes but it's way to hot here to go do that anyway. Should be a little easier on the belt on fire roads and faster trails in the mountains though. A2 was a bit overkill. Still working on new intake stacks but the parts are just trickling in.
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A few parts came in for the project. Got one done. Pretty happy with it s far. This is the CVT intake with in-line helper fan. I might shorten it a couple of inches in the future..just depends on the dust..
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BFFreak_2008/slideshow/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/CVT%20Intake%20Pics/Intake%20stacks
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Changed front and rear diff oils in 101 degree heat, fun! Also, updated my cheapo, hard to hear bluetooth speaker with the MONSTER NOMAD indoor / outdoor bluetooth boombox. Has nice features, water resistant, bluetooth, plus fm radio, usb power out, 30 hour battery life, battery gauge, guitar jack, mic jack, and aux jack. $108.00 on amazon, works well and can hear it pretty good while riding. Also comes in different colors, and fairly compact, and impressive for the price.
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A few parts came in for the project. Got one done. Pretty happy with it s far. This is the CVT intake with in-line helper fan. I might shorten it a couple of inches in the future..just depends on the dust..
Looks awesome, like they grew there...
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What kind of filter is in the CVT intake, and what are you going to use in the air intake, just a light pre-filter?
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What kind of filter is in the CVT intake, and what are you going to use in the air intake, just a light pre-filter?
Right now there are just pleated cone dry type filters in the cans. Easy to clean with air or flush with water but I plan on putting a cone TwinAir in the engine air... or if I can make the Uni I had work in it I'll do that. I'll leave the CVT filter alone for now other then dropping one of the prefilters over it inside the can. I want it easy and quick to clean.
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So Jimbo, where did you put this? Did you mount it somewhere or do you just throw it in the bed and crank it up?
Changed front and rear diff oils in 101 degree heat, fun! Also, updated my cheapo, hard to hear bluetooth speaker with the MONSTER NOMAD indoor / outdoor bluetooth boombox. Has nice features, water resistant, bluetooth, plus fm radio, usb power out, 30 hour battery life, battery gauge, guitar jack, mic jack, and aux jack. $108.00 on amazon, works well and can hear it pretty good while riding. Also comes in different colors, and fairly compact, and impressive for the price.
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So Jimbo, where did you put this? Did you mount it somewhere or do you just throw it in the bed and crank it up?
Changed front and rear diff oils in 101 degree heat, fun! Also, updated my cheapo, hard to hear bluetooth speaker with the MONSTER NOMAD indoor / outdoor bluetooth boombox. Has nice features, water resistant, bluetooth, plus fm radio, usb power out, 30 hour battery life, battery gauge, guitar jack, mic jack, and aux jack. $108.00 on amazon, works well and can hear it pretty good while riding. Also comes in different colors, and fairly compact, and impressive for the price.
The boom box fits nicely on top of the airbox between the seats and against the back cage, on a nice thick 3/4 inch rubber pad held down by bungees, so its secure yet easily removable and doesn't rattle around.
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NMKawierider, nice cvt set up. Do you have any pics of the in line filter?
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NMKawierider, nice cvt set up. Do you have any pics of the in line filter?
Actually...the other one just came in and I had it apart seeing what I needed to do to install a TwinAir Cone type in it. Piece of cake but I would need to gut the OE out of there. I'll take some pics of what they come with and post them here in a bit. Not a bad filter, pleated cotton microfiber that you can use K&N oil on it if you want but its made to be dry. Think I'll try it that way for a while and see. I like the idea of taking two clamps off to get it off, then flushing some water through it and tossing it back on. Can do that at the camp if needed. Besides, still have the big Uni in the box so...so what if a little gets through.
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OK, here's some pics of the filters.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BFFreak_2008/slideshow/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/CVT%20Intake%20Pics/Intake%20stacks/Inline%20filters%20only
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NMKawierider.... Very nicely done . If you have the time would you do a small video when you do the air intake. I have routed mine the same way you have up to this point. Do you plan on running it straight up? Or are you going to run the intake along the back of the bed and bring it up next to the CVT?
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I do have a quick video posted...somewhere. click on the link in my signature to my video account...it is there.
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Found it shorty after I requested you to post one.....lol
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My roof came in and it took about 5 mins to install.
When y'all mount LED light bars to the roof, are they just mounted to the roof alone or do y'all go through to mount them to the roll bars somewhere?
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Most use the front two mounts. I used bar clamps and went through the roof just with one bolt on each side .
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Ok, finished the other snorkel/stack. I think it looks... OK. What do you guys think? Remember, these although are water-tight and good enough for...like..very deep water, :) their main purpose is dust & dirt control to the CVT and engine airbox. I can shorten them about 3 or 4"s but I need them out of that massive dust-zone back there.
Not a valid vimeo URL
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NMKawierider.....those look great... another great idea I might just HAVE to copy...😀
Here is my one of my lastest add-ons. It was time to upgrade the belts.
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Freaking sweet!!!! Great background music as well.. lol.
I'm just going to ship mine out to you NMK. Looks like you put particle separators on top. Love the carbon fiber looks like a Mack lol. Great work!!!!
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They look fantastic, I hope your search for clean air and all of the changes are finally over, let's face it you have nowhere left to go but UP, lol, nice job.
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They look fantastic, I hope your search for clean air and all of the changes are finally over, let's face it you have nowhere left to go but UP, lol, nice job.
So true. I just want to be able to ride for.. at least a few days ..without having to deal with filters..lol
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installed new steering rack in my 2016 z8 ex.
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Added some lights:
MicTuning MT-CHCR20, 20W Long Distance Single Row Cree LED Light Bar Spot Light 10W ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7JKKOW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_eujMzbXRJD90F
Used this wiring harness:
MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof S... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O72R7Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_GtjMzbCB7RD0V
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First dealer performed service. Uni-filter installed by dealer. All is well so far. Definitely get that air filter changed to a Uni-filter....had a little dust get by the factory filter. Dealer said it wasn't enough to be concerned about.
Getting ready to add a light bar............also thinking seriously about adding a Snorkel to get the air intake out of the dust zone.
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Added uni filter
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Got a super deal ($180.00) on some used 90% tread Maxxis Bighorn 2.0 tires, went from the stock 26" to the 28". Gained about 1 1/2" ground clearance, and immediately noticed a much smoother ride with more tire on the rims. Running about 7 lbs front, and 15 rear for the weight I normally carry, nice cushy ride.
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My G/F says she bonked her head a couple of times on the side rail during rough rocky spots on the trails. Put some 3/4" pipe insulation on the side rail. It looks just huge in this pic but a lot of it is camera perspective.
Relocated the Montana GPS on the upper left, closer is better for me. Won't catch any glare up there either.
Put handles on the rear box, now I can unhook the rubber tie straps and just lift it out and in at the balance point.
Installed a Polaris extinguisher in case I run across one of those machines. :) Turns out 1 1/2" muffler clamps are a perfect fit on the CF Moto rops tubing. I'll have to see if I'll ring my head off it in the rough stuff and if so, have to make adjustments but so far the fire extinguisher looks good to go located there.
An old style Kolpin flat gas pack fits nice and snug in front of the box. Lets the lid of the box open and stay open. Holds 14 liters (3 1/2 gallons), that's about half a main tank of extra gas, a good 100 Km (62 miles) worth at least.
More to come. 8)
Oh yeah, I replaced rear lower outer knuckle 45 degree grease fittings with 90's that allow me to actually get a grease gun on them.
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In this thread you can post anything you have done for.. or to.. your CFMoto machine. Doesn't matter what it is or what machine. It can be as simple as regular maintenance and findings to the addition of accessories such as light bars, doors, heated grips, boxes...anything. Photos are always welcome.
I'll start. Not too exciting, just gave mine it's second engine oil change. Put 325 miles on this one. Looked like it had been in there for 800. Hope the next one looks better. I think after this one I'll try a wet clutch compatible synthetic. It only has 475 miles on it now.
just got my 800eps about 2 months ago, adding a front and rear windshield! still looking for a good place to buy accessories? anyone have any good site besides "side by side stuff"? love the machine but have had problems with the air filter as well. seems it needs to be cleaned real often.
any help and much thanks!
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Discovered my 4-year-old No-Toil filter oil wasn't doing it's job anymore so I switch to FAB-1 which came today. Re-serviced the airbox filter using it and boy...what a difference. This FAB-1 is super tacky and looks like it won't migrate down or into the intake track no matter what. Bought the canned stuff so it can't loose it's transporters and get old over time like the No Toil did.
Also modified my sway bar mounting points to give more independent movement and articulation without loosing all body roll control. Looking forward to a test run. I did this with my Brute many years ago and have enjoyed the great ride it gave me.
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Front and Rear Diff fluid change and spark plug change. Front diff was a wee bit tight getting the socket positioned to loosen the fill plug. Rear was a piece of cake. Spark plug not too bad, still really tight to get a tool in place to loosen. CFMOTO provided spark plug wrench was useless.
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Dealer set me up with the Fab-1 spray since day1 . Super tacky indeed, especially when you get it where you don't want it - LOL
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Twin Air main air filter.
Outerwears pre-filter.
New skid plate set. Who can see what's wrong with this picture?
Besides that it's shot into the morning sun...
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Twin Air main air filter.
Outerwears pre-filter.
New skid plate set. Who can see what's wrong with this picture?
Besides that it's shot into the morning sun...
Uncle...I give..what's wrong with the photo?
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I don't know what is wrong but I don't know how you got it verticle or what is holding it up.
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The oil drain hole is punched on the wrong side of the plastic shield. Should be to the right, it's to the left. That or the countersinks for the plastic plate are on the wrong side. Either way, same result. The aluminum plate oil drain access hole is correct but the HDPE one... not so much.
(The plate isn't just set on there backward, there are countersinks for the wide washers and the plate fits on there with the countersinks facing out.)
Ricochet says they will ship me a proper one.
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I don't know what is wrong but I don't know how you got it verticle or what is holding it up.
Winch line to the ceramic isolater on that service pole guy line. Piece of wood was stuck between the line and the front plastics so the winch line doesn't saw the plastic before it gets high enough to clear straight to the fair lead. I didn't pick it up, I'm strong but I'm not THAT strong. :D
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I thought I might expand on that skid plate.
The stock plastic drinks tray that was supplied to protect the underside of the Z-Force was getting torn to bits and wasn't protecting the underside from our bony BC back trails, worth a darn. (Though to be fair, it seemed no worse than stock skid plates on other various ORV's I have seen and owned) I
With less than 1000 Km on it the frame and under parts were taking a beating. There were broken and split parts on the plate, a big chunk was torn right off, and the undercarriage baskets and brackets were taking a beating.
I had been impressed by the Iron Baltic 10 MM thick HDPE skid plate set I bought for my Suzuki King Quad, but IB doesn't make a set for the Trail Z-Force. According to Nils Laur they can't get an example of a Z-Force Trail to measure. The main plates would fit of course, but the A-arm guards would not. No other A-arm guards IB make appeared to be compatible either.
But I found that Ricochet does make a full skid plate set for the Z-Force Trail! :) So I ordered a set for the pumpkin.
They are all aluminum (IB supplies aluminum sides and a 10 MM plastic center) and the Ricochet set is available with or without an additional 1/4" HDPE skin over aluminum for the center plates, and I got those. Also they will colour anodize the visible aluminum parts for another $50.00, so what the hell, I had that done too. 8)
The set comes in two boxes containing a bunch of plastic wrapped and paper cushioned plate parts and a big bag of fasteners and clips, and instructions. An online video is available but I didn't watch it.
Installation was pretty straightforward and the fitment is very good. Ricochet supplies all new #30 and #40 Torx fasteners and countersunk washers. Your old 10 MM head 6.0 bolts and washers go in the parts bin.
One little wrinkle was that they mistakenly punched the engine oil drain hole that's in the rear HDPE skin and meant to line up with the hole in the aluminum plate, on the wrong side of the plastic skin.
I could have laid out and hole sawed a hole on the proper side for oil draining but it wouldn't have been perfect and to be truthful, I got attitude and thought 'I just spent $1100 and it should be properly made' and all that, so I contacted Ricochet about it. To their great credit they apologized, admitted the guys on the floor are working with a new product and screwed up, and they immediately shipped me a properly made rear plastic skin, post-paid right to me here in Canada. Well done.
After a month or so of testing, this 9 piece skid plate set passes with flying colours. They're not cheap to buy but I don't think I could have done better. I highly recommend.
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do you have any "how to's" on shock adjustment?
We have never used this type shocks and not 100% sure how to get them to liten up just a dat, the faster-slower adjuster is I think to allow oil to flow faster to the reserve thus allowing the shock to give a little faster and not be so stiff...I think...LOL
and what does the black clicker on top do? NONE of this is in the service manual
as of right now its still sit as it came new
http://<a href="http://s171.photobucket.com/user/wydglide/media/20171210_150755.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u304/wydglide/20171210_150755.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20171210_150755.jpg"/></a>
]http://<a href="http://s171.photobucket.com/user/wydglide/media/20171210_150652.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u304/wydglide/20171210_150652.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20171210_150652.jpg"/></a>
Ok the 2 photos did not show up.....I guess I'm going to need a refresher (eye Roll) I added the img /img tags.???
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Today while hooking up my battery maintainer I finally got annoyed enough and relocated the battery to under the drivers seat. It was a very easy job I only had to buy a longer positive cable other than that all other wires had enough length. Now I can easily access the battery
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Installed a Midland GMRS radio. (Yes I am licensed). Also installed a rear window. Helps a lot with the rain and mud. Reattached the driver rear fender well that was ripped off by a Bull in the last cattle roundup. Received my snorkel kit from Snorkel your ATV. Will install during the winter months. The snorkel is put on for cleaner air not for deep water.
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The box attaches to the bed for easy removal, with some fabricated slide in front connections, and some small turnbuckles in the rear to lock it in place. The seat then fastens to the box lid in similar fashion, secure but quickly and easily removable from the box. The seat is a WISE folding bench seat, ($160.00) a little weak with a 1/2 " plywood bottom and back, but easily bolstered with some extra plywood. All made for under about $300.00.
This is awesome, do you happen to have some pictures of how you attached it? I'm saving this for later.
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Today while hooking up my battery maintainer I finally got annoyed enough and relocated the battery to under the drivers seat. It was a very easy job I only had to buy a longer positive cable other than that all other wires had enough length. Now I can easily access the battery
I have pondered doing this myself. I dont know why they arent already located there to begin with.
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After giving it an oil change decided to pull that squeaky brake apart. Found one of the slides seized solid as a rock. After some penetrant and heat...and some choice words it came loose. Cleaned it up and greased it and ready to go back together. Think I'll use some anti-squeak on the disk backs anyway sense I'm there anyway. Beveled the pads also.. which I didn't when I installed these EBCs.
So..those boots don't always keep the water out.
UPDATE: Checked the other side and same thing except both were seized. Also was thinking I don't go through water much cause..well..there just isn't any here so any water must be from washing. Also noticed not rust but black-oxide-like material and deep pitting on the slide which indicates a reaction between the two different materials... called electrolysis. This may be a tough one to avoid...but I did also notice the slides do have a hole in the bottom past the threads so..I decided to make a special bolt with a grease fitting on the end that I could pump grease through and back up the sides of the slide back to the boot..flushing out the nasty stuff to the boot where it can be removed. Works good! Looking forward to squeakless riding. Guess I better check the fronts now. :)
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Finished my a-arm and knuckle bushing upgrade on the rear today. It's amazing to me how nice and smooth the suspension movement is with very low friction. Even with the short a-arms of a "53". I think..maybe.. after some new shocks, this thing might be worth keeping...lol
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I installed a 7.5" light bar on my UForce 800. I do have a question; does anyone know if there is a relay or somewhere I can connect the power wires to so the LED light on the switch does not stay on when the key is off? I'm not a whiz at vehicle electrical systems.
Thanks for any help anyone can provide.
AKHUNTER
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I installed a 7.5" light bar on my UForce 800. I do have a question; does anyone know if there is a relay or somewhere I can connect the power wires to so the LED light on the switch does not stay on when the key is off? I'm not a whiz at vehicle electrical systems.
Thanks for any help anyone can provide.
AKHUNTER
My 24" only pulled 4.6 amps so I used the accessory plug circuit. It's also keyed power so it's off when the key is. Yours should be fine there too.
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Thank you for the help NMKawierider, but where do I find the accessory plug circuit?
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Thank you for the help NMKawierider, but where do I find the accessory plug circuit?
Just tap into the wire set going to the acc receptacle. One is 12V+, the other is ground. It's also on it's own fuse in the fuse block.
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Thanks again, I can find it using the fuse box then. I appreciate it.
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Just finished the front-upper a-arm bushing upgrade today. Put it off because all the OE's were still tight and felt fine.. but after replacing them I found I can bounce it and it always returns back to the same place measuring from the floor where it didn't before so..there must have been some additional resistance between the old soft yellow bushings and sleeves..even greased. Glad I did it. Now for the lower fronts and some better seats and shocks. :)
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Did the first oil change and give her a good look over and also replaced air filter with a uni filter and cleaned the air box real good!
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(https://i.imgur.com/UbcaZDq.jpg)
Mounted switches and relays
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I finally got around to making a spare tire mount for my little Z.
Since I lowered the roll cage I had no use for the factory rear kickers. So I used the factory holes in the bed and made a rear bed bar. It doubles as a spare tire mount and tie down bar. Bonus is the spare tire attachment is removable. Pics to follow.
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I put my Unifilter and prefilter cover on my UForce 800 yesterday. Oh, and I tightened up the parking break so that it actually brakes now.
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Unable to post pics........ :-(
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Unable to post pics........ :-(
Yep..you have four pages of mostly 2mb or larger attachments. Could always go back through the list and resize them to something like 640kb or less and gain lots of room...or just open a Imgur account.
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Gave the Z800 a much needed bath. Spent about a hour just blasting over an inch of mud off of the machine. Still need to do a second clean up to get the areas that I missed.
Just part of the JOY that you have to deal with when you have a TON of fun with your machine.
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[/quote]Yep..you have four pages of mostly 2mb or larger attachments. Could always go back through the list and resize them to something like 640kb or less and gain lots of room...or just open a Imgur account.
[/quote]
NMKawierider,
I tried to resize the older pics and could not. Is it possible to delete them?
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Yep..you have four pages of mostly 2mb or larger attachments. Could always go back through the list and resize them to something like 640kb or less and gain lots of room...or just open a Imgur account.
[/quote]
NMKawierider,
I tried to resize the older pics and could not. Is it possible to delete them?
[/quote]Yeah..I'm sure you can. Just go to your list then either from there or go to the oldest post and edit the post deleting the attachment. Let me try to resize a few of yours first.
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NMKawierider
Thanks, In the future I will make sure and shrink them down as much as possible. Let me know if I need to delete them. I will go and clean up all of the ones that are redundant.
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NMKawierider
Thanks, In the future I will make sure and shrink them down as much as possible. Let me know if I need to delete them. I will go and clean up all of the ones that are redundant.
I was able to reduce the sizes on all the attachments on page four of your list by first downloading all to a folder on my P/C, then edit as a group and resized all to "Web Small". Then I went back to your page-4 and started visiting each post and editing each-unchecking the attachment that it has, then uploading the new attachment with the same name..which is much smaller now. Need to do some more but you may have some room now unless there is a number limit. I'm still waiting for Jason and Alex to contact me on how they have it set up. Just sent them another PM.
In the meantime feel free to continue in you find you can post pics again.
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NMKawierider,
Thanks a ton. I am starting to through my attachments and get rid of anything redundant or just not really useful for anyone. I will be looking into Imdur in the future.
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Spare tire mount
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That is a cool mod...and I still like the wing/foil. Think I'll do that too :) . Sence lowering my stacks I get more dust in them. Think that will slow it some.
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That's neat. Been a few times when I wished I could see behind me better..like when turning around close to a cliff or drop-off.
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One of the first things I noticed with this, my first side by side, was how hard it was to gauge my distance to whatever is behind me when backing up. Spooky, especially if it's a cliff edge.
Had to use a relay for the backup cam though as it operates by switching positive to turn on the camera and the reverse light (not shown) turns on and off via the gear position switch that uses negative to trigger.
[imgur]http://(https://i.imgur.com/VyihX7f.jpg)[/imgur]
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Put on some 1 1/2" wheel spacers today, in between rain showers. Seemed to put a little extra leverage on the suspension, smoothing it out a little bit. I will probably R&R left and right CV boot guards, as they are exposed a bit now. The off set on the guards are about 1 1/2", perfect to regain coverage for the CV boots.
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Figured sense I was on the filter kick and knowing the TwinAir did let some stuff through, and having a big ride coming up soon, thought I would check the Uni in the box...see how it was. It was fine and didn't need anything but because I was there decided to service it anyway. Also thought I would try one of my other Unis' just to see how it worked out. The big one I have in it is really too big being a full 8.5"s long by 5.5"s round...as you see, it's a bit large and even had to trim-out some fins to make it work:
(https://i.imgur.com/KDpzI8C.jpg)
The other one I have is 6.5" by 5.5" and is still larger then the Uni others use and the TwinAir but two inches shorter then the big one:
(https://i.imgur.com/d5Nrncu.jpg)
It actually fit better in the box then the other one so I am trying it:
(https://i.imgur.com/FKDsXfC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TWiHVY9.jpg)
The box was still pretty clean as well as the intake track:
(https://i.imgur.com/kOte5q8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/slyhEgq.jpg)
All's good to go..ready for a week in the northern mountains.
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You definitely made that intake tract your bitch. :) Great results.
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You definitely made that intake tract your bitch. :) Great results.
Lol..yeah..might have to give it a break for a while. Probably won't need to open up the box for a year or better anyway. That top Uni should get most of it.
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I built my own spark arrestor and increased the output from 1” to 1 1/2”
It sure thumps away now.
Uforce 600
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Brought the U800 in for garantie jobs:
- new brake pump due to air in the brakes.
- both shockes at the back leaked oil; 2 new ones.
Received the new ECU. Ordered the 0800-174000-2000; received the 0800-174001-2. Contacted Alpha if it is the correct one.
It is the correct one. Next week I will do some testing.
For electrical problems: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00U5X19RU/?tag=phpprogramme
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Getting the Z800 ready for next weekend's ride up Mt Washington.
All wheel bearings greased, brakes checked, and the front end is now
aligned so it no longer pulls left.
A little detailing so it will look clean for the ride.
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Hope to be there for the afternoon run. Have the tickets just need to link up with my mates to get my machine to the mountain. I will be in Berlin from Thursday to Sunday
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I installed the 1.5 inch wheel spacers nmk has suggested to all of us. They fit my 800 ex great can't wait to try them out at the 4th of July gathering at smorr. Thanks as always nmk for the great advice.
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I installed the 1.5 inch wheel spacers nmk has suggested to all of us. They fit my 800 ex great can't wait to try them out at the 4th of July gathering at smorr. Thanks as always nmk for the great advice.
Lol..you are welcome. Enjoy. :) Remember to re-check the torques..on all the lugs.. after that first ride.
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Well, because everything within a 100+ mile radius is close to the public because of fire hazard and will be for quite some time, all I could do is start mine, warm it up and go.."zoom zoom" in the shop...lol.
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Based on recommendations, I bought the no-excuses overhead bag to add some out-of-the-way storage to the Z.
I had to remove the roof to make installation easier. I thought at first the bag was too small and the velcro strips were too short, but after putting it out in the sun after the initial install, it stretched out enough to get all the velcro tight and secure.
I put the rain gear and a few odds an ends in it to free up space in the rear storage box.
Went for a short ride and you don't even notice that it is there :-)
I'll put the little bluetooth speaker in the mesh pocket for the next ride.
Also replaced the twin-air with a new Uni-filter. The Uni is definitely more dense than the twin.
I think the twin-air with the extra cover is probably ok, so I'm considering swapping back and forth between the two, keeping a clean one at the ready and allowing me to clean and prep the dirty one at my leisure.
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Living in one of the harshest deserts in the world, I put snorkels and a two stage uni filter on mine after the first ride.
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@arizona bushman - where do you ride out here? I typically do a lot of Lake Pleasant area and the Bradshaw Mountains.
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Rode it 242 kilometers. (150 miles)
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I put my Unifilter and prefilter cover on my UForce 800 yesterday. Oh, and I tightened up the parking break so that it actually brakes now.
I'm new to the UForce , which Unifilter & prefilter do you use ?? Thanks
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"I'm new to the UForce , which Unifilter & prefilter do you use ?? Thanks"
All the 800s can use the same Unifilters but the UForces like the straight one best. Look in the "Information Center" for PN info. As for a prefilter, just use an OuterWears that fits a 5x6 filter. The actual filter is 4x6 but you want it to fit loosely around the sides yet snug on the elastic end and that one will.
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Installed the BT-96 "silent rider" exhaust.....much bigger project than what I had anticipated on the Uforce 500. Dump box wants to hit it when in dump position. The exhaust is substantially quieter, but inside the cab still lots of noise from engine, belts, pulleys etc. Overall more pleasant to ride though.
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Merry Christmas Everyone!
Just finished replacing my shocks with Elka Stage 1's. Prior to the installation I had 9" clearance with the stock tires and afterwards I had 9" too.
I also replaced the stock rollers with Dr. Pulley Sliders (25g) while I was at it. Thanks NMK for all your videos, they were a great help.
Next up is some new tires. I have been doing a lot of research and it amazes me how many complaints there are about tires not measuring up. :-) The listed diameter of a tire is only a small part of clearance. Clearance is all about tire height which has everything to do with how much air is in the tires and how much your ride weighs. Tire diameter is how far the vehicle travels for every revolution of the tire.
Cheers!
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Pulled the rear wheels and verified that the grease fittings had in fact been greased. Also installed foiled backed sound deadening under each seat and across back of center console...what an incredible difference it made in the overall cab noise. Thanks to our "moderator" for this tip.
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One down, three to go. Mounting up some 28x10-14 Maxxis Carnivores on 14x7 STI HD9 beadlocks. The wheel/tire combo weighs 45 lbs. The stock rear combo weighed 41. https://photos.app.goo.gl/pKg7Ge4jv3Zs6RSt7
I will post some pics once they are on my ride.
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Looks like a wicked tire :)
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Time will tell. To dark for pics so they will have to wait until tomorrow. Flipped the lights on and took it for a quick spin down my street. They feel soft for an 8 plywood (12 psi) which is what most reviews said. Can't wait until I can get them out on the trail.
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Just my input but most are running 7-9psi. I run 8 on most everything.
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Thanks NMK. Here is a pic mounted on my ZForce.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JDwrhP77qjEZoKB8A
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Just an update on the 28" Maxxis Carnivores, they rubbed. Not much but enough so that when I was at full turn and full articulation it would have eventually rubbed a hole through the floor boards. So I sent them back and picked up some 27" CST Clinchers for now. Let you know how they perform once I get back out.
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Just completed my lower door panels and added an adjustable seat base so my wife can move the seat forward when she drives.
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Dang..you are gett'n quite a list of upgrades there..:)
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It was time for the two year 1000 mile once over for the Z8.
Checked the valve lash and spark plugs. The lash was a little tight so they all got adjusted. The plugs looked perfect. The valve train looked spotless and the plastic chain guides looked fine as well. The engine turned over by hand very easily. The bushings got greased and the machine got a bit of a cleaning. A general inspection shows everything in good order.
One of the bolts holding the netting in place fell out. Looks like I have to take off some panels to fix.
I wanted to add an oil/dipstick extension but it doesn't look like it will fit without bending some metal oil lines, something I was unwilling to do just yet. Any suggestions on how to do this safely?
I hope to add a marine grade charging port for easier tender hook-up. I just have to decide where to locate it. I'd like in it the dash but we'll have to see. Considering relocating the battery as well.
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I wanted to add an oil/dipstick extension but it doesn't look like it will fit without bending some metal oil lines, something I was unwilling to do just yet. Any suggestions on how to do this safely?
My 2015 has the rubber lines and I was always going to just use the 500's extension tube and stick but never got around to it cause I stopped checking it every ride...cause it's always full and clean. I was also considering one of those universal flex tube and stick-combos but that would have to be adapted somehow into the existing threads and seal well. IDK...Guess I'll just live with it for a while.
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hey Guys,
when we bought our EX i didn't get the power steering because i was concerned about
reliability of elect. items in that kind of environment, not just CF, but any manufacturer,
but i saw how reliable they are so i wished we had it on ours.
well i decided to try one of SATV easy steer units, Man, it was so easy to install.
and what a difference. i also ordered the original mounting plate so i didn't hafta fab.
one up, just had to cut and weld the steering shafts the rest is bolt on.
wish i had done it sooner.
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Differential oil changes at 1350 miles. An easy service compared to some of the other stuff.
Oil came out looking like new. Just a little bit of rubbings on the magnet.
I'm surprised at just how little oil goes into these things. Maybe 16-18 ounces between the two of them.
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Limb lifters. Help protect the windshield in those overgrown trails. :)
(https://i.imgur.com/2mN79OS.jpg)
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Baby got some new shoes.
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Because my Z Force is a only month old and I don't want to totally void the warranty I did a bit of MacGyvering to attempt to reduce the heat in the cab further and reduce the dust being sucked into engine air inlet.
I already have installed thermo tape on the exhaust pipe.
I realize that the best fix is to install snorkels but that would surely void the warranty. I will wait until the 1 year mark to install those.
I had a roll of thin aluminum sheet (0.5mm) left over from a house project so I made a simple deflector and installed it under the engine air inlet.
There are 2 spare 6mm threaded holes conveniently placed in the bed frame square tube, one either side of the air tube around 10" apart. I used those 2 holes to secure the Al sheet with 6mm bolts.
Photo 1 is what I started off with - around 13" x 13" sheet with a notch cut out for the air tube bracket and shaped for the curve on the bed
Photo 2 shows the air tube pulled out of the way to bolt the Al sheet to the bed frame
Photo 3 shows that I added another piece of Al sheet around 20" x 6" and also stuck some self adhesive automotive acoustic mat on it to give it rigidity and stop any tinny noises
Photo 4 shows the central panel back in place
I also took a full day and removed every panel in the seating area of the cabin that I could, including the bed and the front drive shaft tunnel so that I could install 20 square feet of 2.2 mm thick self adhesive acoustic mat most of which is backed with Al foil. I used it all up.
Not sure if I will see any benefit from the above but if you don't try then you don't learn.
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Quote "if you don't try then you wont learn".
I think that was a very good try and maybe we all learn something. Good job.
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After blowing up a front OEM shock, I opted to put the Bandit 46 series 3 shocks on the front. A few hundred more than OEM, but ...
First impression is that the build on these shocks are far superior to the OEMs.
With zero preload and factory rebound and compression settings, these shocks lifted the front up quite noticeably, enough that I now have to re-adjust the toe the next time it's off the trailer.
The ride is significantly improved such that small bumps are simply floated over and larger bumps are handled with more finesse compared with the OEMs. Can't wait to see how they ride once they are dialed in.
Perhaps a set of Bandits for the rear will be on this year's Christmas list ;-)
This is a comparison with the OEM shock with Bandit springs on it.
(https://imgur.com/3ez69Ir)
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You can back the preload off a little more. I think I went only one turn. Then had to come up a little in the back. It took me just a little to find the right compression and rebound for my riding but.. it's great...and much more controllable on corners with my Reapers now. I almost can't wait to blow a rear shock so I can get a set of Bandits for it...lol
(https://i.imgur.com/mt6iuft.jpg)
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Light and sound bar with rocker switch.
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After months of being in storage I serviced my air box Uni for the first time in two years (service the one in the can almost every ride), fired it up, blow the dust off of it, backed it out of the shop, re-spooled the winch cable (something you want to do sometimes) and ran it around the yard a bit before putting it away. She...and the cameras.. are ready for another season. Now all we need is for the trails to open back up.
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Installed a radio.
(https://i.imgur.com/2RdaLrv.jpg)
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That's nice. I like it tucked-away like that.
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ı broked my back mid shield
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ı broked my back mid shield
What does that mean?
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ı broked my back mid shield
What does that mean?
I mean bottom guard
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Stared at it longingly as I wanted to take it out but my wife said I had to help clean the house and do other chores first.
Did I mention she is a meanie?
But, in all fairness, she is working and I am retired due to my brain injury..
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Adjusted the valves for the first time. Intakes were tight and out of spec. Brought them into spec and seams to run quieter now.
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Took my new 2021 uforce 1000 out for a 72.5 km break in ride today
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Finally installed some doors I've been wanting for a few months. Overall pretty impressed. Dirt Specialties (Octane Ridge) Alpha 2.0 doors with inserts.
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Replaced the old rear OEM shocks, moving the bandit springs to the new OEM shocks ($270/pair), new bushings, and all greased up. No more play in the rear wheels.
She is ready for a ride again after a long hiatus!
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Replaced shocks with Elka Stage 1, reclocked the secondary to C1, installed new CVT belt. Added Ricochet Offroad skids to sides and A Arms. CVT temp gauge to be installed Thursday then back to riding!
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Replaced shocks with Elka Stage 1, reclocked the secondary to C1, installed new CVT belt. Added Ricochet Offroad skids to sides and A Arms. CVT temp gauge to be installed Thursday then back to riding!
Cool...that's doing some meaningful stuff! :)
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Just came in from cleaning the air filters and giving everything a shot of grease. Have to say the Donaldson top spin is doing some good. Been on two rides sense the last cleaning and although they weren't long and dusty, they would have needed cleaned well before this and yet, I could have gone of 5 more rides like those easy.
Starting to get some play again in the rear knuckle and rear lower a-arm bushings. It's only been around 1200 miles. I'm sure the wheel spacers have something to do with this ..again. Been trying to contact Garage Products to see if they will be offering bushing kits again for these but after three attempts with no response I have to assume they are not interested.
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So far top speed 114kpm
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So far top speed 114kpm
phewww i bet its quite trembling ;D
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Just came in from cleaning the air filters and giving everything a shot of grease. Have to say the Donaldson top spin is doing some good. Been on two rides sense the last cleaning and although they weren't long and dusty, they would have needed cleaned well before this and yet, I could have gone of 5 more rides like those easy.
Starting to get some play again in the rear knuckle and rear lower a-arm bushings. It's only been around 1200 miles. I'm sure the wheel spacers have something to do with this ..again. Been trying to contact Garage Products to see if they will be offering bushing kits again for these but after three attempts with no response I have to assume they are not interested.
Glad the particle separator is working out for you. Do you have the 1.5" spacers, and they are wearing out the parts that quickly? Keep us posted if you find somewhere to get the bushing kits, I'd prolly get some to have for when the time comes.
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Just came in from cleaning the air filters and giving everything a shot of grease. Have to say the Donaldson top spin is doing some good. Been on two rides sense the last cleaning and although they weren't long and dusty, they would have needed cleaned well before this and yet, I could have gone of 5 more rides like those easy.
Starting to get some play again in the rear knuckle and rear lower a-arm bushings. It's only been around 1200 miles. I'm sure the wheel spacers have something to do with this ..again. Been trying to contact Garage Products to see if they will be offering bushing kits again for these but after three attempts with no response I have to assume they are not interested.
Glad the particle separator is working out for you. Do you have the 1.5" spacers, and they are wearing out the parts that quickly? Keep us posted if you find somewhere to get the bushing kits, I'd prolly get some to have for when the time comes.
I haven't checked the front yet but it looks like the knuckle bushings and the lower a-arm bushings are starting to get some play and I do grease everything every ride or two. Got around 1200 miles out of those which isn't very much. I'm sure the spacers aided in their wear but in all fairness they must have had some play when I put the spacers on at about 400 miles cause they were pretty bad at 800 when they were replaced. No bearing or ball joint problems yet so that's good. I do also remember that I re-used many of the CFM sleeves that could have ft the ASR bushings a little tighter so some of this is from that too. I'll keep everyone posted what I find and do but it's looking like either I need to do another set of ASR bushings but with all new 5/8" sleeves...or but the CFM bushings and sleeves...which is at the bottom of my list because just the rear.. to do it all except the upper a-arm with all the bushings and sleeves will be $299.80 plus tax and shipping. For now they just got another shot of grease and are OK for now. Another winter project...probably. :)
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So far top speed 114kpm
phewww i bet its quite trembling ;D
[/quote
Ya it was floating lol
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Put a Super ATV flip up windshield on my Z 800 trail, and a rear view mirror.
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Put a rear windshield on today and took the buggy for a spin. WOW, what a difference. Front and rear windshields are really worth the money.
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Put a rear windshield on today and took the buggy for a spin. WOW, what a difference. Front and rear windshields are really worth the money.
Yep. I think I ordered my rear windshield after the very first ride with the front. It's a must-have for sure.
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As soon as I took the first ride, I ordered the front, the second ride I ordered the rear. ;D
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Finishing my winter mode build up
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Raised and moved back the driver seat 1". Doesn't sound like much but it did make a nice difference.
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Had a lil review done on my Uforce 1000
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Changed the oil, filter and plug on my new to me 2018 Cforce 400. Re-routed the winch wiring that was done poorly (not factory), and cleaned her up! Ordered some black widow ramps to get her into the truck! Ordered a set of hand guards too.
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I've posted this on the various facebook groups, but thought I'd add here for those that don't see it there. Made my own quick disconnect sway bar links with 10mm heim joints. Also put together my wheels and tires after having the beadlock rings powder coated. 32*10*14 Arisun Aftershocks on 14*8 (0 offset) Raceline beadlocks.
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Nice!
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I finally had a day to myself so I could pull my CForce 400 into the garage and install some accessories. I started with a mirror kit, which I ordered from the CFMOTO USA Parts website. The right side mirror had a spot already tapped to screw the mirror in. The left side required removal of the grip (which I was going to take off anyway so I could install heated grips) and the left-side switch housing. The mirrors make a nice addition to the ATV and as a Harley-Davidson rider, I was lost without mirrors. I purchased a set of heated grips (Raider brand) from our local FleetFarm. I tapped power from the 12-volt accessory, which is a key-switched power source. It took me about three hours because I had to remove an inner panel under the front left wheel housing. I finally got everything finished. Fired the ATV up and in about 30 seconds, I had nice, warm grips. It was "fun" trying to remove the hood so I could run some wires. Sure looks easier on YouTube than in person. After about 15 minutes, I finally figured it out. I also added a rubber block around the winch hook so the hook doesn't bang into the cable guides. About a five-minute installation. Also added a three-in-one receiver hitch and it fits perfect. Ordered some spare parts for the Moose plow as well (skid shoes and mounting pins).
I was impressed with CFMOTO USA Parts. I placed my order late Tuesday evening and everything was delivered by Friday. I ordered the Moose plow parts from Dennis Kirk and they were here the next day. I do live in Minnesota so I guess next-day shipping is pretty easy. Been very pleased with Dennis Kirk over the years and they are about 75 miles from my location. Have to give a shout-out (I am biased because it's a Minnesota business).
Expecting upwards of a foot of snow on Monday/Tuesday so I am looking forward to trying the plow out with more than just three or four inches!
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2017 Z800 - changed the coolant.
I have read for years of people having trouble after changing their coolant on these machines and I did not understand until I saw some youtube videos on how NOT to change your coolant on these machines.
For instance, Red Neck garage has a video where he disconnects a couple of hoses which is completely unnecessary, more difficult, and messy.
By the book:
Loosen the coolant drain plug at the bottom of the water pump and let it leak out.
When it's done draining, remove the plug and jack up the front end a few inches.
When the draining stops, put the plug back in, and fill with distilled water to flush.
Run the engine for a few minutes until the engine warms up or the fan goes on.
Repeat the drain procedure.
Now, the plug has a copper washer. If that washer has any deformities, either sand it flat or replace it.
Torque the plug into place (89 inch/pounds).
Fill with 3.1 quarts of your choice of coolant (50/50).
Start the motor and let the system burp.
Top off the radiator, put the cap on, and add some coolant to the overflow bottle.
I did not have to use the vent screws on the heads to let the air out.
Drop the front end and take it for a ride!
I used Zerex G05 (Gold/Yellow color), a HOAT coolant (with silicates) for aluminum engines/radiators.
Prestone OAT coolants are fine as well as most modern coolants, but they lack silicates. Avoid IAT coolants, which are usually green in color, and what came from the factory. While they have silicates, they don't have the protection longevity of modern coolants.
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Working on getting the wife's z600 a little more trail/road ready. Repaired tail light, clock set button, rusty seat belt clasps and air intake box. Tidied up wiring and removed any old/excess. Replaced engine oil, front and rear gearbox fluid, coolant and brake fluid. New AMS Swamp Fox tires, new winch and synthetic rope, turn signal kit, some overhead storage, set of light whips that also act as additional turn signal and brake lights, fire extinguisher quick release mount, some storage trunk tie downs and a UTV cover. Full enclosure from 3 Star Industries and a 4 speaker Boss sound bar are still on their way.
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Just bought a used 2020 CForce 500.. First thing I do with any machine is immediately rip out the metal winch cable and replace with synthetic rope - It only took me one short ride to convince me to disable the damnable shift guard that's activated by the foot brake so I did that too. I suppose I get why its there but cripes its annoying. It took all of 10 mins to disable it. The machine can now be shifted freely without the rider having to stomping their right foot through the floor board.
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Today I used a flap disc on my angle grinder to flatten a spot on my diamond plate doors to stick my vinyl zforce sticker.
It didn't turn out at all how I wanted it to but I've been working on these for so long I don't even care anymore lol it all looks the same coated in mud 😂😂
I also got my CVT cover off and removed both clutches.
Needs a cleaning HELLA BAD!!
First time I've ever had it off in 5000 km so it was deffintly due.
Started to build a clutch compression tool but the all-thread I used isn't heavy enough and snapped so tomorrow Ill hit home hardware to finish it and reclock my secondary!
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Nice. I've been considering taking all my graphics off but not sure if I will like the plain black look better. Think it needs...something...just not this much.
(https://i.imgur.com/xme5owM.jpg)
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Nice. I've been considering taking all my graphics off but not sure if I will like the plain black look better. Think it needs...something...just not this much.
I know what you mean any of the aftermarket doors I've seen on utv parts sites are always black (for instance the superatv doors) I like the CfMoto stickers but like you say they are very busy.
(https://i.imgur.com/xme5owM.jpg)
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Reclocked my clutch and built a clutch compression tool to do so!
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Today was a busy day!!!
Clutches went back together and belt box resealed.
Ran 3" stretch hose from my front belt box vent.
Finally I gave her a bath and a trickle charged the battery.
Tomorrow we go out for a run!!!!
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Part 2 to the Wife's Z600. Most of it has been complete for some time. She now has a 26" sound bar, a "glovebox" for additional storage, some DIY fender flares made from a single 2'x3' mud flap, a full cabin enclosure from 3 Star Industries, custom snorkel modification to get the venting and breathing of engine parts AWAY from the dusty compartment, an oil catch can with breather filter and protection flap (latter 2 not pictured). I've included a complete pic of hers and one of 'his and hers' side by side (haha).
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This little Z600 has most certainly been the "project car" I was looking for. When I first got the SxS I discovered that there was no air filter and some of the airbox hardware was missing. I was getting a significant amount of oil in the airbox and intake so I installed a catch can, built some custom parts to get the air filter back and tested the compression. I measured 114 PSI which, at the time, I thought was fine so I rode it a little as is. The oil that was going into the airbox was gone, but the catch can was almost half full after a 15 mile ride. With further study I discovered that the specified cylinder pressure was intended to be more in the 145 PSI range, so a rebuild was in order assuming I have damaged cylinder walls and rings. A little bit of Ebay later, rebuild kit in hand I get going on the project. Discovered early on that the valves had nearly NO clearance (cannot be good) so I made sure those measured properly when I put everything back together. Tested the pressure after reassembly and got 148 PSI. Happy camper am I. :) Flushed most of the oil and replaced with what I had left over from my earlier maintenance along with some Lucas break in additive. I'll be doing the ring break in followed by a full oil/filter change in the morning once the gasket compound cures.
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It's a messy picture, but does the job.
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It's a messy picture, but does the job.
Clean install!!! Looks really good that way!! Did you use just a regular drill bit or a specially drill bit to drill the plexiglass?
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I used a step drill from both sides. Went through like butter.
I cleaned up the holes with a regular bit because the plexi is deeper than the steps on the step drill.
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Just got my new mirrors from Amazon took 5 minutes to install. Tools needed 14mm for the right adapter but reverse thread and a 13 mm for the mirror nut. Then on the left 8mm for the handlebar clamp and 13 again for mirror nut.
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Start working on street legal project. Dealer wanted $700 plus to do it. So Amazon was my friend. I installed mirrors and a turn indicator switch which came with the horn and blinker. It has a red button for lights with I am going to use to kill/enable power to the winch in out switch. I did that on my Kawasaki KRX 1000 in Arizona, to help preventing two block the winch in an accidental hit of the in button.
The mirrors I bought on Amazon would not screwing into the threaded hole on the hand brake reservoir, so I used the included handlebar clamps on both sides. I had to reword the winch in/out button, putting in on the top of the handlebar. Opened up the mount and turn the switch over. I also had to bend the L mount a little to line out to the mount on the handlebar. Less than a L now.
I had to remove the left hand grip and switch assemble to slide the turn indicator/horn switch on. The mirror mounts are two piece and not and issue.
More to follow as this project moves forward. Planning on taping into the 2022 amber lights in the headlights and using red pop in LEDs on the rear (two on each side) on the rear. With wire and plastic loom I am still under $100.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEG40NI?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SHDN9PX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6VM2VY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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Ok, working on wiring diagram. The Red latching button is going to be 4 way flashers. I spent a lot of hours trying to design it with the existing brake lights to also be the rear turn signals and gave up as having them as turn signals and 4 way flashers was to complex. So I am going to installed two pop in Red LEDs on each side.
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I have to find the wires to the un-used front amber lights if anyway has info on that.
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Does anyone know what the un-used white connector by the steering column is for. Appears a first glance to be a black wire and a red with white stripe.
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I don't...sorry.
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Well made good progress today. I watched an YouTube and identified the colors of the wires to the unused OEM amber front turn signal lights.
t=260s
This guy also said the white plug I asked about was hot all the time. SO, I used that to power the horn. I removed the positive wire from the plug and soldered my horn power lead to it. So getting the horn working was pretty easy. I mounted the horn under the front rack. I will post a picture of that location later.
What he did was much more complex and involved. I would note that I was trained in electronics in 1965 in the USCG, was a Field Engineer at NCR in the 70's and retired as a network design engineer at BofA/EDS. This kind of things is more or less in my wheel house.
Now knowing the left and right turn indicators use the light blue and orange wires, and from a cable by the master cylinder with a blank plug in it. Testing show that these wirers went to the front turn indicators and the left/right turn arrows in the instrument cluster. So I have the front turn indicators and the arrows wired to my handle bar switch. I have not cut any factory wires so far
I picked up a mini Add-A-Circuit to pull the turn signals power from the fuse panel.
Relays to do the 4 way flashers will be here tomorrow. I will have to use two(parallel them) as I had ordered SPDT relays.
Cost so far, with not much more to buy.
$7.63 License plate lights
$7.63 Relays for 4 way flashers
$10.90 LED rear lights
$27.26 Horn, handle bar sw, and blinker relay
$8.34 Add-A-Circuit
$5.00 Miscellaneous supplies
$66.76 Total
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OK, finished the lighting project except of the license plate lights that arrive tomorrow. Lights are built into the license plate bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z6WQ6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was able to put pins in the dummy plug for turn signal lights above the left rear wheel and use Kawasaki wiring to the rear. I installed the pop in RED LEDs. Note: I never cut an OEM wire to do this project.
To review: I now have turn indicators with OEM amber lights on the front and pop in red in the rear. 4 way flashers and a horn.
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I think this is the greatest upgrade I've done to my machine, it maybe just a simple little fix but this is going to save me so much time and frustration.
I don't know about other machines but to reach these nipples because I don't have a 90° nipple on the end of my grease gun took forever. I had to pull my rear tires, rotor rock guard and unbolt the rotor to move them out of the way enough to grease all 4 of these guys.
Worth all the bullshit today.
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Finally got around to finding and reinstalling my cargo net I took it off 5 years ago and for the life of me I can't remember why...
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2nd Mod of 3
After installing the mirrors previous reply. I purchased from Amazon Mictuning RGB Rock lights. I viewed several Youtube videos and found my best route for wiring. The 2 front wires run down the left side opposite the exhaust pipe on the right. After many trials and relocations of the rear lights I settled for low and forward of rear tires. They are facing outward and not down that may have to change as I think about many life choices and what I should've done VS what I did. I may fab a bracket to move up and over the exhaust. Next mod will be the cargo box.
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So today I installed the wired winch remote, and yes the in/out colors were revised to the Cforce. I installed the phone holder for my smart phone with Gaia GPS nav app. I installed two storage boxes. Do not think much of the latches on these cheap boxes, so put a bungee cord over them. They are bolted down to fender washers below the Cforce quick release receptacles holes.
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Nice work.
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Got my flag mount that I made installed. I found that the back metal bar under the plastic rear storage had two nuts welded to the back side and two of the bottom. My mount is attached using all four points. I am going to stack two 1 gallon Rotopax gas cans on the area between the boxes, seat and flag.
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Got my 3018-8 24g Dr.Pulley sliding roller weights today!
Slapped them into my variator and away we go.
These plus having my secondary clutch set at B2 should be lots of fun.
Has anyone else use these in their machines long term?
Here's an explanation of how they work from the Dr.Pulley website:
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Many of us are using them. Yes, definitely and big improvement over the rollers. You will like them...a lot.
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Yeah baby! :)
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Yeah baby! :)
😂😂😂
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Installed some foam grips over the OEM hand grips. I have these on my Can-Am Spyder 3 wheel motorcycle also. They cut down vibration into your hands and I have large hands, so a fatter grip is good.
https://www.slingmods.com/can-am-spyder-foam-hand-grips?vehicle=1
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Yesterday I took the Cforce 600 touring on it's first real ride to Reiter Hills ORV park in Gold Bar, Wa. Area in the center of the map was tight ATV 50" or less trails.
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Looks like a happy owner to me...lol. Heck of a ride.
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Got my 1 gal Rotopax mounted.
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Nice.
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Just got the wife a Cricut for her birthday. I had to try it out on her ZForce 500 hood.
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Well I think I have over killed the ability to carry extra fuel. I can now stack two one gallon Rotopax fuel can. I will most likely take one or both to Arizona this coming winter.
(https://i.imgur.com/jcaBsgzl.jpg)
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Oh I don't know..I used to carry two one- gallon RotoPax on mine. Hardly ever needed them but like my Daddy always said-" Better to have and not need...then to need...and not have". :)
(https://i.imgur.com/6LUIk98.jpg)
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I finally washed it. Tried out my new foam cannon this afternoon. Looks pretty good but there is still a lot of mud on the skid plates and inner frame area.
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Got my 3018-8 24g Dr.Pulley sliding roller weights today!
Slapped them into my variator and away we go.
These plus having my secondary clutch set at B2 should be lots of fun. ,,,snp...
Is this the set you put in? I have a screen shot of the parts. Is it Classic or Euro style?
Curious, thanks in advance reply.
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I finally washed it. Tried out my new foam cannon this afternoon. Looks pretty good but there is still a lot of mud on the skid plates and inner frame area.
It should be easy to clean, I mean, being upside down like that....
YMMV
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Got my 3018-8 24g Dr.Pulley sliding roller weights today!
Slapped them into my variator and away we go.
These plus having my secondary clutch set at B2 should be lots of fun. ,,,snp...
Is this the set you put in? I have a screen shot of the parts. Is it Classic or Euro style?
Curious, thanks in advance reply.
Yes that's the set I put in but I did the euro style because I like the colour of the black ones better lol
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My latest mod to my cforce 520s was Ironbaltic skidplate set.
(https://img.aijaa.com/m/00832/15077916.jpg) (https://aijaa.com/4I0oiH)
Update: Today the cf moto got new 27" wild thangs and ITP SS212 12" wheels.
(http://img.aijaa.com/m/00732/15078050.jpg) (https://aijaa.com/DeNRTH)
(http://img.aijaa.com/m/00226/15078048.jpg) (https://aijaa.com/92MVxP)
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I have a UK 2019 zForce 1000 when I first drove it, I noticed the driver seat was too far forward and somewhat tilted forward, I kept banging my knees and it wasn't comfortable using the pedals. To resolve this, I tried adjusting the seat by repositioning the base but this didn’t help much, So I looked more closely at the base and noticed that between the adjustable base and the seat was and angled plastic spacer (like a wedge) which had the thick end to the rear of the seat and the thinner end to the front. I turned this around and positioned the seat as far back as possible, this tilted the seat backwards lifting the front giving more support under your legs. This provided a much better driving position.
Note, I have noticed that the seats differ in different countries and this workaround was on the UK model.
See the UK seat parts diagram showing the two wedges in the default position.
https://www.quadzillaparts.co.uk/collections/zforce-1000/products/zforce-1000-f13-b-seatblack-grey (https://www.quadzillaparts.co.uk/collections/zforce-1000/products/zforce-1000-f13-b-seatblack-grey)
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Replaced the windshield I had on the z500 with a proper one from SuperATV.
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Well, since the 2013 got its original windshield back and all fixed up I figured I should put back some "needed" lighting. Whips, rocks and floods for the complete package upgrade.
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Nice.
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Nice work. The Bunnies will be able to see you coming now.
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Yesterday. First valve adjustment!
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Heck yeah Ulfthednar! Those can be intimidating. You have to sort of "open up" your engine which most people don't want to do on their own.
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Today was it's 20 hour oil change and fluid inspection.
After that I got it back down my backyard in one piece.
Reminds me I gotta go retrieve my winch strap and clevis . . .
Going to have to reconsider that route.
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Took it for a long walk in the woods.
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Installed (and modified the rear) rack extenders and "tool" holders today.
Tried a number of times to post this, so this is the short version.
The front extender is 'just right' I guess. They are both well made but while the front one really fits well, the rear is kind of lacking in forethought on the designers part and leaves this huge gap between the standard equipped rack and the oem accessory add on.
I might take it a little further but here is the end result of the "stage 1" modification to the rear rack plus pics of the front.
I was looking for "load securing" as well as being able to attach a bag or other accessories or tools on the racks.
The front works fine, but the rear was a bit lacking.
I used a 1/2 pulley block to bend the tubing and my welder to add a lower rail to the factory piece.
I might add some expanded metal or other mesh in the future as well.
The added versatility in purchasing both racks was well worth the hassle of getting them (thats another story) and now I can securely mount basic gear (extraction gear and must haves) like a machete, hatchet a small folding chair for sitting by the river and so forth while still keeping most of the cargo area open for bulkier items.
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Nice job.
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Since I was using the Swamp Fox tires that my wife got for her birthday on the z6 I figured it'd be a good idea to acquire a set I could call my own. A bit of patience watching Marketplace I was able to find a set of 27" ITP Mud Lite XTR tires (75% tread remaining) on STI HD6 rims for $300. I also needed a set of lug nuts and adapters to go from 4x110 to the Polaris based 4x156 the wheels were originally on. So for under $450 I got my own set of tires which "included" an additional 1" lift (25" to 27") and spacing equivalent to 2.25" (1.25" wheel adapters plus 1" wider tires) for each wheel. Much like I have for my RZR, the wife now has two wheel sets to put on her machine based on desire/conditions... "Y'ain't gotta downgrade you can get what I get."
Sorry about the random T.I. reference there.
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1st Video (currently uploading) made yesterday.
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Idaho panhandle eh? Ha, my avatar on this site is taken on a trail above Wallace, Idaho maybe the same one as one of your photos. Nice riding area. Nice town.
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Havent made it that far over yet.
Most of my rides have been just west of Kellogg a bit.
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Put in a Stingray Mods Clutch kit in my zforce500. 10gram weights, spring in the primary, and Big tire helix. Also cleaned all of clutch and replaced primary bolt and helix ramps and new oem belt. Seems smooth like butter and faster revs for sure, although not a huge amount of additional power felt yet. But I've only tested it at a friend's house with a few acres, have yet to really give it a good thrashing. I also replaced my cracked exhaust manifold and put firewall material behind all back plastics. Much quieter now! I'm hoping for a little more power toward the top of steep sandy hills, I will report back. Oh yeah, had the ecu flashed with a tune, because why not? I have noticed engine now returns to 1600rpm on the dial now when I stop, before it hunted its way down, but that was more than likely the cracked manifold.
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Just added a Ecoxgear 18" 300 watt soundbar, Rival brushguard and LED headlights. Now I can rock out in the wilderness, run into things without damaging the body and see where I'm going 8)
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Today.
I had my first real time failure.
Fortunately I was in my upper backyard when the bike went dead. :'(
Died.
No lights.
No dash.
Nothing.
I was able to dead stick it all the way (around 500 yds) down the hill right up to my garage and started poking around. :-\
I found that my Main ignition fuse was popped.
Went to stick one in and it popped again. :o
So I have a short.
So I started feeling the wires out and looking for obvious issues.
Then I start checking components, unplugging them one by one to see if that removed the short condition. :(
Just as I was about to accept scheduling a trip to the shop, I decided to check the oil pressure buzzer which is part of the ignition circuitry. ???
I unplugged it, and no short. :o
The dash cycled through a reset display, settled down and I started the bike.
Turned it off and feeling my way along started tracking down the buzzer.
Well. The stupid thing had fallen out of the dash niche, worked its way through the little gap around the steering column with it's 18 inch leads and had landed on the front exhaust pipe, melted through and took out the primary fuse.
Of course I figured it out after I'd stripped all my personal gear off so it wasnt in the way at the shop.
I was able to shorten the leads and take out the damaged section so it's functioning til I get a new one.
I still have to put the panels and racks and everything back together but it's running with no faults or errors and displaying the correct information.
:P ::)
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Bummer...well, at least it's NOT in the shop for a month or more...:)
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Need to get a pic of it, been busy using it.
I received my passenger seat rack friday that fits the 600 touring, 800XC and 1000 two up models.
thing is pretty solid, minor assembly needed with the pieces to set it up for any of the machines.
Mind I like the two up seat and it's just fine to ride with, but with the rack insert my load handling capability changed big time.
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Two upgrades today.
The first one is an All Balls winch remote kit from Main Street Cycles.
https://www.mainstreetcycle.com/shopping/item/1985/all-balls--wireless-winch-remote
I attempted to install two of the ones off of amazon and both of those failed miserably.
The All Balls from MSC worked as soon as I had it wired in.
It installed exactly the same as the amazon ones, except for the fact that it actually WORKED.
By worked I mean no discernible lag, instant actuation and positive engagement.
And it worked. Thats the really important part. It worked right away.
I wired mine red and black to the solenoid terminals and the white and yellow (white to black, yellow to green) in the loom leading to the handlebar switch. and it worked with no issues, no head scratching and no grungy feeling in the gut wondering if Id done it wrong.
If Id seen the one at MSC first I probably would have ordered it at $49 instead of twice ordering the amazon ones at $20.
The same installation but with the expected Results rather than abject failure.
MSC also has one of their vids showing exactly how to wire it in if you need an assist as well.
The upgrade today was installing one of their Carbon Fiber Max airflow intakes.
https://www.mainstreetcycle.com/shopping/item/634/carbon-fiber-max-airflow-intake
Ive been watching a lot of MSCs and RNGs videos and am kinda excited about some of the custom upgrades theyre getting into procution. I'm not a major gearhead but I like Smooth well tuned machines, so I am not unfamiliar with the basic theory at all.
It's a bit diffuclt to see in the adds one the website whats different about the the MAx and the stock intake tube but it is readily apparent when you have them side by side.
They redesigned the flow curve in the max intake to be noticeably longer allowing for a smoother transition in airflow direction as the air travels around the curve from the airfilter.
I actually got a bit excited when I got it out of the box and went "ohh, I see what they did!".
So I took a quick ridge after allowing it to warm up a bit.
I didnt expect anything huge, maybe not even immediately noticeable but it makes enough of a difference I thought I could tell a difference as soon as it idled down but when I hit the throttle I could HEAR and feel the difference in the engine vibes.
Im not taling about geo Metro to Aclohol dragster changes but formly noticeable to my ears and tactile sense.
the engine idled smoother, accelerated smoother and has a small, but definitely noticeable increase in throttle response.
Again, not huge, but Definitely THERE. (the bike really throws the back end sideways now).
the revs climb more smoothly and a bit quicker and it idles smoother.
With the curve redesinged the air flows in more readily and with less tumbling.
the other thing I noticed is it appears to run cooler now too.
again not huge, but it hangs out at three bars alot more now instead of four bars on the scale.
Ill have a better feel on that for sure this weekend and ill post further if that holds true.
The other two installs today (parts provided by msc) were replacment air box cover plastic. the cowl sides.
Id idiotically broke one of the pegs off pulling the wrong way and the other side I had a muscle spasm and snapped one off (carpal tunnel and shoulder surgery stuff).
I'd been pulling nice and easy the right way and my arm spazzed and jerked as my hand cramped up and I snapped the second one.
So I got those installed today too as well and am back to a 100% intact machine.
It might be a bit OCD but it's been since 1986 that Ive ever had a NEW ride of any sort and Im kind of having fun keeping it in as good a shape as I can.
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Good for you. Make it yours. :)
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The upgrade today was installing one of their Carbon Fiber Max airflow intakes.
https://www.mainstreetcycle.com/shopping/item/634/carbon-fiber-max-airflow-intake
Good stuff... Question do you need an ECU tune or even more direct is your rig ECU' tuned?
sol...
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Oh, so I rode it to work this morning. pretty much all pavement but I can roll it out pretty good.
So definitely seems to run cooler.
But also the idle is up 100. Not critical but I will have to retune a bit as I upgrade it.
Mine idled dead on 1300 when fully warm now it seems to be sticking to 1400.
But the temp scale stayed entirely in the third bar until I stopped at my house instead of cycling between 3 and 4 bars.
Its dont 3/4 (never 5) since I bought it.
Pretty consistently in late summer last year and through the winter as well.
I was going to start playing with the tuning anyway . . :o
And still, definitely a noticeable "smoother" feel all the way across the board.
Little snappier, a little quicker gaining Rs and I think I spun the tires on pavement a bit without doing anything "different" from normal.
Just minor, but Better.
So Ive found someone that makes a straight header cat delete set and a refined intake manifold (head to throttle body) and an exhaust im contemplating trying out.
The intake again, smoother lines and it looks as though it's a one piece, so it will eliminate a turbulence point that visibly exists in the factory two piece intake runner.
The specs on that header set were pretty stunning.
Dropped the running exhaust temps from 960f to 327f. Cool enough to rein in that wild heat, but not so cool your exhaust is going to stall. That 960f is centralized in the cat, right behind your calf . . thats Hot. Stupid hot.
Just waiting for them to hit full production status.
Those will definitely require a retune.
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Just completed the break-in maintenance on my 800 trail. Was actually really easy, no problems what so ever. My engine doesn't have a wet clutch, so it actually makes it easier to change the oil because the drain plug and the dipstick are more easily accessible. I rocked the whole thing out in less than an hour and a half, and I even took the rear tires off to make it easier to get to the grease fittings. Cost me about $125 and thats because I bought two UNI filters so I can always have a clean one to put in.
This lends the question, why in the heck my local shop quoted me 3-4 hours and $500+ to do the same work? The only thing I couldn't do myself was check the check the engine valve clearance.
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Was that Bobby J's? I got mine there too. If theirs includes valve lash adjustment it does take extra time to remove the plastics and valve covers. And if it includes the diff, gear case and transmission oil changes, that's.."rounded" hour or so and fluids. I too always do my own...everything.
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Was that Bobby J's? I got mine there too. If theirs includes valve lash adjustment it does take extra time to remove the plastics and valve covers. And if it includes the diff, gear case, and transmission oil changes, that's.."rounded" hour or so and fluids. I too always do my own...everything.
Yes, it's Bobby J's. The guy quoted me $500- $700 for the break-in maintenance, which includes a valve clearance check, but it shouldn't include changing the diffs and transmission fluid as those are just checked at the break-in maintenance.
I did everything except the valve clearance myself, I guess I will take it to them to check the valve clearance. I am sure that alone will cost me an arm and a leg.
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Was that Bobby J's? I got mine there too. If theirs includes valve lash adjustment it does take extra time to remove the plastics and valve covers. And if it includes the diff, gear case, and transmission oil changes, that's.."rounded" hour or so and fluids. I too always do my own...everything.
Yes, it's Bobby J's. The guy quoted me $500- $700 for the break-in maintenance, which includes a valve clearance check, but it shouldn't include changing the diffs and transmission fluid as those are just checked at the break-in maintenance.
I did everything except the valve clearance myself, I guess I will take it to them to check the valve clearance. I am sure that alone will cost me an arm and a leg.
You can do it yourself...it's not hard. I have checked mine 4 times now..had to adjust them twice. You do have to take the seats out and the back plastics to get to the front cylinder but..that's all of 15 minutes. When I picked mine up back in December of 2014, they never saw me again...lol. They are OK people though..really. I'd buy from them again.
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Added some tables to the z500 and z600. They lay flat in the back when not in use and use the hitch to attach the support.
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After a lot of measurements and searching, I finally found a hard case cooler that will perfectly fit in between the side boxes of my CForce 1000.... and some cup holders that mount to the 2-up seat, hand-holds.
(https://i.imgur.com/5xZMTwU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/65dVQc8.jpg)
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I just did the single best performance/flow thing Ive done yet.
I picked up the RJWC CF Cforce800XC/1000 (works on the 850, too) Cat delete header.
I tried someones tune . . meh. did a little for the heat, good bottom power but destroyed my mileage and I lost about 12 mph off of topend. (Ive clocked mine bone stock, post break in just over 70mph (cause I had to))
Went back to stock on that, I could barely get to 58 mph and my mileage went to Winnebago and I put my stock ECU back in (I bought a second one, because Im weird like that)
But my header showed up today so I gleefully threw tools and swore til I got it installed (skill level 2 on a 1-10)
A little fiddly and I did it on the floor. Add a third hand and it would be much easier and add a lift and your at a 1.5 on skill level.
Ill see where it is really at over a few weeks but right off the bat.
no clutch pack or weight change I just pulled the first full blown wheel in the air no maybes about it wheelie since Ive had this thing.
No sorta maybes I was climbing air and swatting mosquitos with the front tires.
So now for the main reason . . the HEAT issue.
this did more to drop that insane nut roasting heat under the seat than anything.
I didnt temp it yet but the IR thermometer I have cancelled out at 624 and that was through the heat shields before I swapped the stock exhaust out.
I took the time to wrap mine which was probably the fiddliest part of the process . . Im not a super speed freak but Ive got a good understanding of what Im after and how to get there . . 25 feet and 18 stainless zipties.
Youll need a 10mm, 12mm 13 mm and a 7/8 (21mm? - correct me on the crossover if Im wrong on it)) for the O2 sensors and a phillips #2
The best "all around" running machine I can get. Exhaust scavenging and flow is critical both for economy and performance and wrap helps keep the exhaust MOVING, which helps intake curves and valve seating as well as drawing heat away from the engine, moving parts and reducing trapped heat under all the body work.
But yeah not a bad job at all.
OK . . Quality wise? Oh man . . im not into that hummer humping nonsense but this was definitely a lickable piece of work.
think starting at jessica rabbits ankle and working up . .
Very very clean, very well constructed and very well fit.
the only reason I had difficulty was I did a three hand job with two and on the floor.
having a lift and a third hand would have made it a snap to get in.
You will not use a couple of the heat shrouds (the ones mounted directly to the factory header) with the RJWC but your not going to need them afterwords. I left them installed on the factory set.
the fit and finish is Top end. It a gorgeous header. I almost felt bad wrapping it.
the fit is . . just FINE. I mean like .9999 pure fine.
Very well constructed. everything lined up, everything fit properly and its Nice enough you want to leave the side covers off so you can drool on it.
You will reuse your exhaust port rings and mine came with a header to exhuast bevelled ring but I reused my old one because I had an idiot moment and forgot the new one and said screw it, it fits fine.
It has a flared junction between the cylinders with a clamp that eliminates the middle spring bolts but you will need to resuse the exhaust to muffler springs and bolts and of course the header bolts.
I was able to twist around and get to the front ones but it would make it easier to remove the rear inner fender shrouds.
Probably make it a bit easier to pull the right side front tire too even though I worked around it.
I pulled the seats, airbox cover and side panels.
My only whine is I didnt get a RJWC sticker with it . . .
but im gonna go find one . .
this is the header I installed . .
https://rjwcpowersports.com/collections/header-atv/products/cforce-850-1000-header-pipe
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I haven't ridden the buggy in a few weeks.2018 zforce trail.
I do not do hot weather riding and have been waiting for it to cool down some.
Plus i was useing a friends trailer and he needed it back.So for the buggy i went and bought a 6 ft x 12 ft nice aluminum trailer.I'm sure it will be happy to see the mountains again.
It wasen't brand new but i and my Son N Law jason spent awhile looking it over while asking questions.The price was fair so i pulled the trigger.I like the real lite rear ramp.
That is what i did for my cfmoto today.
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Cleaned mine after using it to pull my flail mower, mowed 2 small paddocks.
Cleaned sit on too :D