[Ulfthednar]

Need to get a pic of it, been busy using it.
I received my passenger seat rack friday that fits the 600 touring, 800XC and 1000 two up models.

thing is pretty solid, minor assembly needed with the pieces to set it up for any of the machines.

Mind I like the two up seat and it's just fine to ride with, but with the rack insert my load handling capability changed big time.

[Ulfthednar]

Two upgrades today.
The first one is an All Balls winch remote kit from Main Street Cycles.

https://www.mainstreetcycle.com/shopping/item/1985/all-balls--wireless-winch-remote

I attempted to install two of the ones off of amazon and both of those failed miserably.
The All Balls from MSC worked as soon as I had it wired in.
It installed exactly the same as the amazon ones, except for the fact that it actually WORKED.
By worked I mean no discernible lag, instant actuation and positive engagement.
And it worked. Thats the really important part. It worked right away.
I wired mine red and black to the solenoid terminals and the white and yellow (white to black, yellow to green) in the loom leading to the handlebar switch. and it worked with no issues, no head scratching and no grungy feeling in the gut wondering if Id done it wrong.

If Id seen the one at MSC first I probably would have ordered it at $49 instead of twice ordering the amazon ones at $20.

The same installation but with the expected Results rather than abject failure.
MSC also has one of their vids showing exactly how to wire it in if you need an assist as well.

The upgrade today was installing one of their Carbon Fiber Max airflow intakes.
https://www.mainstreetcycle.com/shopping/item/634/carbon-fiber-max-airflow-intake

Ive been watching a lot of MSCs and RNGs videos and am kinda excited about some of the custom upgrades theyre getting into procution. I'm not a major gearhead but I like Smooth well tuned machines, so I am not unfamiliar with the basic theory at all.

It's a bit diffuclt to see in the adds one the website whats different about the the MAx and the stock intake tube but it is readily apparent when you have them side by side.

They redesigned the flow curve in the max intake to be noticeably longer allowing for a smoother transition in airflow direction as the air travels around the curve from the airfilter.
I actually got a bit excited when I got it out of the box and went "ohh, I see what they did!".

So I took a quick ridge after allowing it to warm up a bit.
I didnt expect anything huge, maybe not even immediately noticeable but it makes enough of a difference I thought I could tell a difference as soon as it idled down but when I hit the throttle I could HEAR and feel the difference in the engine vibes.

Im not taling about geo Metro to Aclohol dragster changes but formly noticeable to my ears and tactile sense.
the engine idled smoother, accelerated smoother and has a small, but definitely noticeable increase in throttle response.

Again, not huge, but Definitely THERE. (the bike really throws the back end sideways now).
the revs climb more smoothly and a bit quicker and it idles smoother.
With the curve redesinged the air flows in more readily and with less tumbling.

the other thing I noticed is it appears to run cooler now too.
again not huge, but it hangs out at three bars alot more now instead of four bars on the scale.
Ill have a better feel on that for sure this weekend and ill post further if that holds true.

The other two installs today (parts provided by msc) were replacment air box cover plastic. the cowl sides.
Id idiotically broke one of the pegs off pulling the wrong way and the other side I had a muscle spasm and snapped one off (carpal tunnel and shoulder surgery stuff).
I'd been pulling nice and easy the right way and my arm spazzed and jerked as my hand cramped up and I snapped the second one.

So I got those installed today too as well and am back to a 100% intact machine.

It might be a bit OCD but it's been since 1986 that Ive ever had a NEW ride of any sort and Im kind of having fun keeping it in as good a shape as I can.
 

[NMKawierider]

Good for you. Make it yours.

[solomon]

The upgrade today was installing one of their Carbon Fiber Max airflow intakes.
https://www.mainstreetcycle.com/shopping/item/634/carbon-fiber-max-airflow-intake

Good stuff... Question do you need an ECU tune or even more direct is your rig ECU' tuned?
sol...

[Ulfthednar]

Oh, so I rode it to work this morning. pretty much all pavement but I can roll it out pretty good.

So definitely seems to run cooler.
But also the idle is up 100. Not critical but I will have to retune a bit as I upgrade it.
Mine idled dead on 1300 when fully warm now it seems to be sticking to 1400.

But the temp scale stayed entirely in the third bar until I stopped at my house instead of cycling between 3 and 4 bars.
Its dont 3/4 (never 5) since I bought it.
Pretty consistently in late summer last year and through the winter as well.

I was going to start playing with the tuning anyway . .   

And still, definitely a noticeable "smoother" feel all the way across the board.
Little snappier, a little quicker gaining Rs and I think I spun the tires on pavement a bit without doing anything "different" from normal.
Just minor, but Better.

So Ive found someone that makes a straight header cat delete set and a refined intake manifold (head to throttle body) and an exhaust im contemplating trying out.
The intake again, smoother lines and it looks as though it's a one piece, so it will eliminate a turbulence point that visibly exists in the factory two piece intake runner.
The specs on that header set were pretty stunning.
Dropped the running exhaust temps from 960f to 327f. Cool enough to rein in that wild heat, but not so cool your exhaust is going to stall. That 960f is centralized in the cat, right behind your calf . . thats Hot. Stupid hot.

Just waiting for them to hit full production status.

Those will definitely require a retune.

[NMtrailRDR]

Just completed the break-in maintenance on my 800 trail. Was actually really easy, no problems what so ever. My engine doesn't have a wet clutch, so it actually makes it easier to change the oil because the drain plug and the dipstick are more easily accessible. I rocked the whole thing out in less than an hour and a half, and I even took the rear tires off to make it easier to get to the grease fittings. Cost me about $125 and thats because I bought two UNI filters so I can always have a clean one to put in.

This lends the question, why in the heck my local shop quoted me 3-4 hours and $500+ to do the same work? The only thing I couldn't do myself was check the check the engine valve clearance.

[NMKawierider]

Was that Bobby J's? I got mine there too. If theirs includes valve lash adjustment it does take extra time to remove the plastics and valve covers. And if it includes the diff, gear case and transmission oil changes, that's.."rounded" hour or so and fluids. I too always do my own...everything.   

[NMtrailRDR]

Was that Bobby J's? I got mine there too. If theirs includes valve lash adjustment it does take extra time to remove the plastics and valve covers. And if it includes the diff, gear case, and transmission oil changes, that's.."rounded" hour or so and fluids. I too always do my own...everything.

Yes, it's Bobby J's. The guy quoted me $500- $700 for the break-in maintenance, which includes a valve clearance check, but it shouldn't include changing the diffs and transmission fluid as those are just checked at the break-in maintenance.

I did everything except the valve clearance myself, I guess I will take it to them to check the valve clearance. I am sure that alone will cost me an arm and a leg.

[NMKawierider]

Was that Bobby J's? I got mine there too. If theirs includes valve lash adjustment it does take extra time to remove the plastics and valve covers. And if it includes the diff, gear case, and transmission oil changes, that's.."rounded" hour or so and fluids. I too always do my own...everything.

Yes, it's Bobby J's. The guy quoted me $500- $700 for the break-in maintenance, which includes a valve clearance check, but it shouldn't include changing the diffs and transmission fluid as those are just checked at the break-in maintenance.

I did everything except the valve clearance myself, I guess I will take it to them to check the valve clearance. I am sure that alone will cost me an arm and a leg.

You can do it yourself...it's not hard. I have checked mine 4 times now..had to adjust them twice. You do have to take the seats out and the back plastics to get to the front cylinder but..that's all of 15 minutes. When I picked mine up back in December of 2014, they never saw me again...lol. They are OK people though..really. I'd buy from them again.

[aganarr]

Added some tables to the z500 and z600.  They lay flat in the back when not in use and use the hitch to attach the support.

[big_john]

After a lot of measurements and searching, I finally found a hard case cooler that will perfectly fit in between the side boxes of my CForce 1000....  and some cup holders that mount to the 2-up seat, hand-holds.

[Ulfthednar]

I just did the single best performance/flow thing Ive done yet.
I picked up the RJWC CF Cforce800XC/1000 (works on the 850, too) Cat delete header.

I tried someones tune . . meh. did a little for the heat, good bottom power but destroyed my mileage and I lost about 12 mph off of topend. (Ive clocked mine bone stock, post break in just over 70mph (cause I had to))
Went back to stock on that, I could barely get to 58 mph and my mileage went to Winnebago and I put my stock ECU back in (I bought a second one, because Im weird like that)

But my header showed up today so I gleefully threw tools and swore til I got it installed (skill level 2 on a 1-10)

A little fiddly and I did it on the floor. Add a third hand and it would be much easier and add a lift and your at a 1.5 on skill level.

Ill see where it is really at over a few weeks but right off the bat.
no clutch pack or weight change I just pulled the first full blown wheel in the air no maybes about it wheelie since Ive had this thing.

No sorta maybes I was climbing air and swatting mosquitos with the front tires.

So now for the main reason . .  the HEAT issue.

this did more to drop that insane nut roasting heat under the seat than anything.

I didnt temp it yet but the IR thermometer I have cancelled out at 624 and that was through the heat shields before I swapped the stock exhaust out.

I took the time to wrap mine which was probably the fiddliest part of the process . . Im not a super speed freak but Ive got a good understanding of what Im after and how to get there . . 25 feet and 18 stainless zipties.
Youll need a 10mm, 12mm 13 mm and a 7/8 (21mm? - correct me on the crossover if Im wrong on it)) for the O2 sensors and a phillips #2

The best "all around" running machine I can get. Exhaust scavenging and flow is critical both for economy and performance and wrap helps keep the exhaust MOVING, which helps intake curves and valve seating as well as drawing heat away from the engine, moving parts and reducing trapped heat under all the body work.

But yeah not a bad job at all.

OK . . Quality wise? Oh man . . im not into that hummer humping nonsense but this was definitely a lickable piece of work.
think starting at jessica rabbits ankle and working up . .

Very very clean, very well constructed and very well fit.
the only reason I had difficulty was I did a three hand job with two and on the floor.
having a lift and a third hand would have made it a snap to get in.

You will not use a couple of the heat shrouds (the ones mounted directly to the factory header) with the RJWC but your not going to need them afterwords. I left them installed on the factory set.

the fit and finish is Top end. It a gorgeous header. I almost felt bad wrapping it.
the fit is . . just FINE. I mean like .9999 pure fine.
Very well constructed. everything lined up, everything fit properly and its Nice enough you want to leave the side covers off so you can drool on it.
You will reuse your exhaust port rings and mine came with a header to exhuast bevelled ring but I reused my old one because I had an idiot moment and forgot the new one and said screw it, it fits fine.

It has a flared junction between the cylinders with a clamp that eliminates the middle spring bolts but you will need to resuse the exhaust to muffler springs and bolts and of course the header bolts.

I was able to twist around and get to the front ones but it would make it easier to remove the rear inner fender shrouds.
Probably make it a bit easier to pull the right side front tire too even though I worked around it.

I pulled the seats, airbox cover and side panels.

My only whine is I didnt get a RJWC sticker with it . . .

but im gonna go find one . .

this is the header I installed . .

https://rjwcpowersports.com/collections/header-atv/products/cforce-850-1000-header-pipe

[glassguy]

I haven't ridden the buggy in a few weeks.2018 zforce trail.
I do not do hot weather riding and have been waiting for it to cool down some.
Plus i was useing a friends trailer and he needed it back.So for the buggy i went and bought a 6 ft x 12 ft nice aluminum trailer.I'm sure it will be happy to see the mountains again.
It wasen't brand new but i and my Son N Law jason spent awhile looking it over while asking questions.The price was fair so i pulled the trigger.I like the real lite rear ramp.
That is what i did for my cfmoto today.

[Hotmeat]

Cleaned mine after using it to pull my flail mower, mowed 2 small paddocks.
Cleaned sit on too 

[Quadler]

I took the zforce to the dealer to have a Stage ² clutch kit from Iron Baltic, spacers and 30 inch tires fitted. They found that the pulley on the primary drive had a crack. Today I went on a test drive and I have to say it drives much better. It was worth it!