[Hunttux]

Lots of great info here- although I couldn’t find a recent thread discussing tie downs and trailers. Figured I’d start a new thread.

I have a couple questions about my setup, and would like to see your trailering/transportation setups.

Not looking to get a better trailer, but want to adapt my existing 2sled open tilt trailer (10’x8’) to be safe/easy.

It’s all galvanized, sheet metal deck. I noticed after towing my new U800 home from the dealer that I had some sagging of the deck at the wheels.

I grabbed a couple of sheets of osb and was going to screw that down on top of the steel , and run D-rings through both with carriage bolts in each corner.

So....
Bad idea? I get that it won’t last forever, but I figured it would spread the load better. I also have some old old unused shingles I was gonna lay down for a bit of traction.

Also- where are you folks setting your straps? I was surprised when the dealer said A-arms... winch mount a better place?  Hitch in back?
I’m using 4 ratchet straps.

Thanks for your input and help with my noob questions. I’m sure there will be more!

[murdo]

Always tie to an unsprung part (such as the A arms)  rather than the winch/towbar/body as this will let the body move on the suspension. If you tie to the body you risk the body moving and snapping the straps.
Imagine the trailer going through a dip in the road, the trailer springs compress, the CF springs compress, the tie down straps go slack and when the trailer comes out of the dip all the pent up spring tension releases and gives a sudden snap to the straps, possibly overloading the tensile strength of the webbing material or the rachets, possibly losing your buggy.
Tying to the winch is also bad as it can overload the gear teeth (in road situation above) and bust them off destroying the winch and losing tension on the cable.
I have towed many different cars and bikes on trailers around Australia with it's less than smooth roads and have not lost one yet, but have helped pick up a couple that had been tied to the body and snapped chains.

[doug80638]

Different strokes.

I tie down the body (roll cage) and compress the suspension a bit precisely because I don't want the load bouncing/wobbling/shifting around.

I've also used the tire tie-downs which are fast and convenient, but allows the load to bounce.

[NMKawierider]

I agree with Murdo. You will never see any professional vehicle transporter ever tie one down from any sprung section. It will always be done by the tires or axles to allow the suspension free motion. In that light, I think some e-track bolted through both layers of deck and some varient of these would be best. Maybe the ones with the side web would be better but these do work well.

https://www.amazon.com/Erickson-09160-Wheel-Chock-Tie-Down/dp/B015CJICIK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=etrack+Tire+tie+downs&qid=1583680492&sr=8-3 

[Hunttux]

Thanks folks. if Aarms are ok, that makes it even better.

The osb did the trick and I feel like the load is spread much better.

[NMbuck]

I used e-track bolted through both layers of deck after I used bed liner paint on treated wood. The idea is that I can haul other length side by sides without redoing tie down rails. Then I used the e-track tire holders and straps to go over each wheel.

[Hunttux]

Yeah- that’s a slick set up. I was trying to do it (safely) with just a few extra bucks.
I’ll probably get some sort of water seal for osb since it sits outside. It won’t see a sled for the foreseeable future, so it should last a few years anyway.