How do you keep th e axle from turning when you are trying to tighten the large nut? And what I have read in this forum nut should be tightened to 160 ft lbs.  thanks Dave

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

You can..put a flat tire iron between two lug studs but that's pushing the limits of that Chinese steel not to brake. I suggest removing the center cap from the wheel, installing the wheel on the hub with at least three nuts, set it on the ground and hold it that way. You can also add someone in the cab with their foot on the brake for a little extra.

BYW, the manual says 110-130 N.m which is 81.3 - 95.8 FTlbs  not 160. I would give it an extra 5lbs though.

You can..put a flat tire iron between two lug studs but that's pushing the limits of that Chinese steel not to brake. I suggest removing the center cap from the wheel, installing the wheel on the hub with at least three nuts, set it on the ground and hold it that way. You can also add someone in the cab with their foot on the brake for a little extra.

BYW, the manual says 110-130 N.m which is 81.3 - 95.8 FTlbs  not 160. I would give it an extra 5lbs though.



I know this is old, but I'm getting ready to try to tighten my nuts!  My service manual calls for 220-250 NMs, I think that's pretty crazy!  Also, is this a 30MM nut?

One of the last steps ...

Put the tire on, set the wheel down, and torque it while it's on the ground.

Is that 30MM axle nut socket?  Does it really require 250nm of torque??

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Is that 30MM axle nut socket?  Does it really require 250nm of torque??

Probably on the 30mm and the manual had two specs.. 250Nm(Newton Meters) converts to 184ft-lbs of torque...which sounds high so go slowly and if it feels like its stretching or stripping...stop. Kawasaki tightens their fronts to 144ft-lbs and the rears to 195ft-lbs so 184 is in that range.

Is that 30MM axle nut socket?  Does it really require 250nm of torque??

Probably on the 30mm and the manual had two specs.. 250Nm(Newton Meters) converts to 184ft-lbs of torque...which sounds high so go slowly and if it feels like its stretching or stripping...stop. Kawasaki tightens their fronts to 144ft-lbs and the rears to 195ft-lbs so 184 is in that range.

My torque wrench only goes to like 100 or 110.  Would a couple raps with a 1100ft ft. lb impact be too dangerous?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Is that 30MM axle nut socket?  Does it really require 250nm of torque??

Probably on the 30mm and the manual had two specs.. 250Nm(Newton Meters) converts to 184ft-lbs of torque...which sounds high so go slowly and if it feels like its stretching or stripping...stop. Kawasaki tightens their fronts to 144ft-lbs and the rears to 195ft-lbs so 184 is in that range.

My torque wrench only goes to like 100 or 110.  Would a couple raps with a 1100ft ft. lb impact be too dangerous?

My problem is with Chinese metals. Impacts are the #1 cause of failures so if it were mine...I wouldn't. If I didn't have a torque wrench that could do it and couldn't borrow one..I would take what I have to the limit and go a little extra. Remember, you have to go enough to get what you can get and line-up a hole for the cotter pin.

Is that 30MM axle nut socket?  Does it really require 250nm of torque??

Probably on the 30mm and the manual had two specs.. 250Nm(Newton Meters) converts to 184ft-lbs of torque...which sounds high so go slowly and if it feels like its stretching or stripping...stop. Kawasaki tightens their fronts to 144ft-lbs and the rears to 195ft-lbs so 184 is in that range.  The whole reason I am doing this is my wheels feel like there's a bit of play in them and I wouldn't think it's time for bearings yet (1200 miles).

My torque wrench only goes to like 100 or 110.  Would a couple raps with a 1100ft ft. lb impact be too dangerous?

My problem is with Chinese metals. Impacts are the #1 cause of failures so if it were mine...I wouldn't. If I didn't have a torque wrench that could do it and couldn't borrow one..I would take what I have to the limit and go a little extra. Remember, you have to go enough to get what you can get and line-up a hole for the cotter pin.

Thanks for your knowledge, I will find a torque wrench.  Do you think this digital adapter would get me close enough and is decent?  Says it goes to 144ft. lbs and I do have a decent breaker bar already.  The whole reason I'm doing this is there is some play in the wheels and I'm suspecting loose axle nuts (1200 miles on machine).

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-63917.html

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Looks like for less money you can get a HF torque wrench that hits 150...although I own a HF 3/8" torque wrench and its so inaccurate, I don't use it. But if you have play in that area after even 20ftlbs, it's not a loose nut, it more likely bad wheel bearing. It can also be a bad CV joint or even sometimes loose a-arm bushings banging back and forth. All easily tested.

Looks like for less money you can get a HF torque wrench that hits 150...although I own a HF 3/8" torque wrench and its so inaccurate, I don't use it. But if you have play in that area after even 20ftlbs, it's not a loose nut, it more likely bad wheel bearing. It can also be a bad CV joint or even sometimes loose a-arm bushings banging back and forth. All easily tested.

Well, nuts were tight, looks like play in the cv boot.  Is oem the way to go or are there aftermarket ones that are better and/or more affordable?  Is this a hard job, never done one before??  Thanks!

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Looks like for less money you can get a HF torque wrench that hits 150...although I own a HF 3/8" torque wrench and its so inaccurate, I don't use it. But if you have play in that area after even 20ftlbs, it's not a loose nut, it more likely bad wheel bearing. It can also be a bad CV joint or even sometimes loose a-arm bushings banging back and forth. All easily tested.

Well, nuts were tight, looks like play in the cv boot.  Is oem the way to go or are there aftermarket ones that are better and/or more affordable?  Is this a hard job, never done one before??  Thanks!

If yours is a Trail model, OEM is your only option. If and EX, then check SuperATV & SxS Stuff. Can also just google "ZForce Axles"