[flash]

Have any of you removed the sway bar on there ride ?
I disconnected ours on our recent trip and I think I like it better, has more
body roll but a lot more suspension travel.

[NMKawierider]

I ran mine once disconnected and liked how much smoother this 53" was but as soon as I hit some roads with corners, it went back on cause this narrow-thing got a little scary. Oddly, I was just thinking about taking the links back off and just running a little slower on the roads cause it was so much better on the rough trails.

[vman]

I did a 2" lift a few weeks back and the ride stiffened up, more so in the back than the front so I backed off my preload on the rear shocks and disconnected my rear sway bar to see if that would soften it up some, I like the way it feels but I haven't put enough time in it to make a final decision about it. I extended the mounting bracket for the front links but there is no way to do that on my model with the rear links, my mechanic wants to cut the rear links and lengthen them, I am concerned about connecting the rear links without extending them because with the 2" lift the sway bar is angled down instead of being parallel to the road as it was before and I wonder if that angle change stiffened up the action of the sway bar, I have not heard anyone on this forum address the length of the links when doing a lift so maybe I am over thinking this and it doesn't matter.   

[REDRIDER]

I have a 2 inch lift and I disconnected one of the links. It is a much nicer ride and I want the articulation. I keep the sway bar in the cab so If I am going to be doing a lot of "regular" riding on hard pack at some speed I can just throw it back on for the day (which I will probably be doing for NH trip). I get more body roll but even with 2 inches of lift and 29's I can corner hard and slide the rear on dirt (don't try it on pavement XD). I have an EX though.

[chuddly]

I run with the sway bar because in the races we do fast long corners and the extra body roll would be horrible for me.  What you guys need to put on/make are "disco's" or quick disconnect sway bar ends.  This gives you the choice with no tools needed to have your sway bar function or have it not Just a piece of pipe with the inner diameter the size of the shaft of the sway bar end and your good to go.  For you guys that are lifted  just have your piece of pipe long enough to make your sway bar level and you are all set.  If you are not changing your end link length then you only need to do one side

[REDRIDER]

yes, that is on the list of to do's

[NMKawierider]

Yeah...that's the ticket. And wouldn't it be great if it could be done electrically...

 

[gfmoto]

Will drilling a hole into the sway bar cause it to "oval out" when reconnected and torque is applied to the pins? Great idea just wondering how many ft.lbs. of pressure that sway bar is under.

[chuddly]

They actually do make a electronic sway bar disconnect for Jeeps but its like $1500.  So if you want to buy one of those and cut it up to make it work on your Z Force for right ahead LOL.

The amount of force on the sway bar when its connected is minimal.  Its only the force differential between the wheels which normally is not much.  On top of that the force that is there is normally compression force which makes it easier to manage.

[brian smith]

thats a good idea chuddly i am not concerned with unhooking mine just lenghtening them i am gonna build a set with rod ends left and right hand thread with a turn buckle so i can make my swaybar level again i will post a pick once i get them built.

[REDRIDER]

just a side note, you only need to have one side disconnected, or the quick disconnect on one side for it to be effective.

[chuddly]

just a side note, you only need to have one side disconnected, or the quick disconnect on one side for it to be effective.

Correct.  I think I put that in my first reply...but if I didnt then ok also LOL. 

[REDRIDER]

just a side note, you only need to have one side disconnected, or the quick disconnect on one side for it to be effective.

Correct.  I think I put that in my first reply...but if I didnt then ok also LOL.

yup, you did, just reread it lol

[glenlivet]

I made a sway bar disconnect for my King Quad, that can be operated on the fly, using a bicycle locking brake lever and cable.. It's very tight quarters in that machine and quite out in the open on the CF Moto so the latter ought to be an easier build.
If the sumbitch '17 Zforce 800 Trail ever arrives!

Tried to attach a pic but I must not have enough posts to have the privilege.

Edit: What ya know, it did attach.

The anti-sway bars on these machines do not act as a torsion spring like some car and truck suspensions but rather they just link one side's A-arm to the other, with some 'give' in the outer attachment points.
The bar can be safely cut and a way of disconnecting introduced without affecting it's function. There must however be a way of keeping the bar in axial alignment. The bar is of good thick tubing material and if a collar such as Chuddly's diagram is used and it is of sufficient thickness to resist distorting and long enough to hold axial alignment, that ought to be a very economical way to get a disconnect. Mind you it will have the disadvantage of requiring the rider to stop and insert or remove a bolt.
By using bolts with a section of solid shank (not threaded right to the head) that are a good fit in their holes, and a using a thick enough collar, hole ovaling and introduced slop should not be a concern.

[gfmoto]

It looks nice! Just not sure how it operates off of a cable.