[Bryan Medlin]

Hello.  Sorry in advance for the lengthy problem but think the details might help.  Was using my 2019 Cfmoto 600 to grade my mom's driveway and after the second pass the clutch seem to go out.  Could hear rattling and was impossible to shift.  I was leaving for a couple weeks so loaded it up and took it to the dealer I bought it from to get repaired.  After about 3 weeks of trying to get someone to look at it I finally went and picked it up. 

I got online and searched for the primary clutch since the entire inner part with the sliding weights was full of gun and the plastic was wore out.  The belt looked fine so didn't order it.  There wasn't scarring on the secondary so I left it - although there was a little black on it.  I tried to order the original part number - OEM – 0GS0-051000-00011 but it wasn't available and it said it wasn't going to be available for up to 6 months.  I use mine daily so called the company (CFMOTOusaparts.com) and they said to use the following 0GS0-051000-00030.

I ordered it.  Took the primary off and put the new one on.  Put the belt back on.  All were put on correctly.

Immediately when I started it up I noticed the rattling sound that started right when it broke down was back.  Could here it was the weights in it moving around.  Did some research and it seemed like people were saying it was pretty common with different clutches.  Everything seemed relative fine other than the rattle at idle that went away above 2000 rpm. 

Took it for a short right around my property and got back and it wouldn't stop I noticed and wouldn't shit again.  I took the cover off and say that the thrust collar on top of the clutch along with the washer was stripped out.  The one bearing also looks to be worn from the 2 min drive.  Am attaching some pictures below if anyone could help it would be much appreciated.

[NMKawierider]

Well, the ramp plate and the bore washer are gone...as in destroyed..probably because of the nut not being torqued properly. The one-way or overriding clutch clearly was not allowing the belt to rest on it is it either is damaged, put in backwards or moveable part of the clutch was not rotating because of the stripped ramp plate. Very likely....and the back sheave doesn't look so hot either. And I'm sure the hex shaft is also damaged as well. In any case, all that needs replaced now as well as the belt because it is now also toast. I suggest getting a complete new clutch and belt and installing it correctly. If you don't have a service manual...get one. 

[Bryan Medlin]

I am not sure if this matters but I bought the whole new clutch.  I did take it apart but made sure to put it back together exactly the way it was supposed to.  I made sure the bearing was going the correct direction and all parts were exactly put together correctly.  The clutch was put in the same way the factory did I believe.  The nut was torqued down so I don't really know how it did the damage it did.  I have no problem replacing it but I just replaced everything you said to and the outcome after a one minute drive was the pictures above.  Other than getting the exact torque of the nut on the plate is there anything else that could have happened?  Because all parts were new.  Thanks in advance and thank you for the reply

Well, the ramp plate and the bore washer are gone...as in destroyed..probably because of the nut not being torqued properly. The one-way or overriding clutch clearly was not allowing the belt to rest on it is it either is damaged, put in backwards or moveable part of the clutch was not rotating because of the stripped ramp plate. Very likely....and the back sheave doesn't look so hot either. And I'm sure the hex shaft is also damaged as well. In any case, all that needs replaced now as well as the belt because it is now also toast. I suggest getting a complete new clutch and belt and installing it correctly. If you don't have a service manual...get one.

[NMKawierider]

I am not sure if this matters but I bought the whole new clutch.  I did take it apart but made sure to put it back together exactly the way it was supposed to.  I made sure the bearing was going the correct direction and all parts were exactly put together correctly.  The clutch was put in the same way the factory did I believe.  The nut was torqued down so I don't really know how it did the damage it did.  I have no problem replacing it but I just replaced everything you said to and the outcome after a one minute drive was the pictures above.  Other than getting the exact torque of the nut on the plate is there anything else that could have happened?  Because all parts were new.  Thanks in advance and thank you for the reply

Well, the ramp plate and the bore washer are gone...as in destroyed..probably because of the nut not being torqued properly. The one-way or overriding clutch clearly was not allowing the belt to rest on it is it either is damaged, put in backwards or moveable part of the clutch was not rotating because of the stripped ramp plate. Very likely....and the back sheave doesn't look so hot either. And I'm sure the hex shaft is also damaged as well. In any case, all that needs replaced now as well as the belt because it is now also toast. I suggest getting a complete new clutch and belt and installing it correctly. If you don't have a service manual...get one.

What were the torque specs you used on the nut and bolt?

[Bryan Medlin]

I did not use a torque meter but I honestly don't think they were tightened incorrectly.  I am just having a hard time rebuying that clutch and reinstalling a new belt with the idea it was because the nut and bolt were not measured for torque.  They were tight and secure but not measured. 

[Bryan Medlin]

I do notice that the thrust plate from the replacement clutch is way thinner metal than the thrust plate from the original clutch

[NMKawierider]

Just saying that from the pattern on the washer and the stripped ramp plate suggests movement..and for that to happen to the ramp plate it must have come out past the hex sleeve..and that can only happen if the nut backed off...IMHO.

Show us the rest of the clutch.

[Bryan Medlin]

The first four are from the clutch that I took off.  The second two are from the clutch that I put on that went bad (there are also a couple pictures above as well).  The last one is from the secondary. 

The inside of the original clutch was toast.  When I put the new clutch on there was a really loud rattle so I am not sure if it was the right one especially since it wasn't the original part number. 

I just don't want to pull the primary again and put a new primary back on and waste the money again.  I also put a picture of the secondary because there is a little scuffing on the secondary from what I assume is the belt not moving.  Not sure if that has something to do it. 

[glenlivet]

To the original failure:
Oh how many times I have wished that dealers and manufacturers would disclose to purchasers of a new to them machine, that an ATV/SXS transmission is not like that of a car in which going very slowly can be done for as long as the operator wishes, using its torque converter, without any harm done.
In a car the torque converter just pushes oil around and nothing wears. In an ATV, take off from a standstill and going slower than 'lockup' means that something is wearing, either the centrifugal clutch in the case of constant tension CVT or the belt itself in the case of the dry clutch design. I'm not sure which this 600 has.

I think this machine's original failure was from heat developed from going very slowly against high resistance. Not your fault if no one ever told you, but when the operator goes slow and particularly also imposes a load and does work with an ATV, especially in high range, that's overworking and abusing the mechanism that's made to permit it to get from a standstill to the speed at which the CVT is fully locked. (maybe @ 15+ MPH in high range, half that in low).
In an automatic tranny equipped car you can creep all day in a traffic jam and nothing is harmed, but not on an ATV/SXS. Something wears to get you up to speed and when creeping, the CVT develops heat much faster than the fan and air ducting system can evacuate it.

The subsequent damage I'd guess appears to be from incorrect assembly of the CVT when that was done with new parts. I'm not familiar with the 600 to tell what exactly is needed now.

Sorry you had this happen.

[EPITech]

Between What NMKawierider and Glenlivet said the slow speed high load operation are definitely what did in the original clutch.  Looking at the pictures of the original failed components, and correct me if you guys think I am out there, but you could in theory clean up the sheaves drive faces, install a new spring and weight set and properly reassemble and be on your way.?  I have worked on many a CVT machine and have seen worse ones come in and go back out the door with a little elbow grease.  Then again, if the sheaves are ground into and there is material burned out of them then they are scrap weight. 

[NMKawierider]

First I would like to welcome EPI to our group. I've used their products in all my previous toys with 100% confidence and satisfaction. Heck I still have and use their clutch spring compressor...and although it's been a while, the Kawasaki primary puller still resides in my tool box still looking new even after being used hundreds if times.

With regard to this issue, JMO but I think the original problem was incorrect torque and after that as the OP said, they tried another and different part number. I say..get all the "correct" parts..replace anything with any issue that can't be cleaned-up or fixed, install it correctly...as in by the book... and get back out there.      

[glenlivet]

Bang on. I too welcome the EPI participation. Hear hear!
I finally looked at the second set of photos and the first outer plate is a casting while the second appears to be a sheet metal stamping.
The failed second plate looks like it was allowed to flex, suggesting metal fatigue. These look like incompatible parts. I wonder what the depiction of the proper plate, in a parts blow up diagram from an OEM parts supplier, would look like.

Edit: It looks like the stamping.
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/mainstreetcycles/showmodel.asp?type=13&make=cfmotoatv&a=43
I don't see that thick casting with the hex well in the center in that blow up diagram though. I'm confused so I'll just slowly back away.

[Bryan Medlin]

Awesome. Thanks guys.  I was wondering what you would use to clean up the inside of the primary and polish up the outside of the original. Thanks again for the information

[NMKawierider]

Awesome. Thanks guys.  I was wondering what you would use to clean up the inside of the primary and polish up the outside of the original. Thanks again for the information

Anything that leaves no residue or film. Most just use Brakleen or acetone. You can run a green scotchbrite pad over it first but avoid course sand paper on the sheave belt contact surfaces as scratches do not increase grip, they are spots where surface contact is lost thus friction or grip is lost. Think of it like a dragster- you don't see then using Knobby tires or on rough pavement. Hot, treadles rubber against the smoothest surface possible to get as much surface to surface contact as physically possible. 

[Bryan Medlin]

How clean does the drive fixed sleeve need to be?  I've been scrubing on it and it still has some rough spots near the base.  I thought about using the second drive sleeve that I bought since they seem to be exactly the same but the head on it is not compatable with the original thrust plate.  Also do you think I need to order the original weights or will the weights that were in the second one I bought be ok - just wondering if they were pretty standard.  Thanks again for the info