[VT Sniper]

Ok I have ironed almost all the bugs out of my 2011 600 Snyper. The last issue I have to resolve is the temp gauge rises pretty quick, after several minutes of idling the warning light comes on, the gauge is one bar from red, but the radiator and hoses are cool to touch. The motor is warm but not too hot. I have a brand new thermoswitch, before I changed switch the fan would come on when I turned key on and the gauge went right to red when started. So I am getting closer but not sure what to check next. How can I tell if water is circulating?  Could I have an air bubble in line? How can I tell if it is an air bubble? Last thing is that it is not leaking coolant, I would assume if it was a water pump I would see coolant at weep hole right?
Thanks in advance you guys have been very helpful

[NMKawierider]

Well, pull the radiator cap and ensure the coolant level is to the very top. Run it with no cap on and periodically feel the temp of the coolant. Once the thermostat opens some you should feel a rush of warm coolant and even see some movement. If you do not and the temp gauge is climbing past 3 bars...and the fan isn't coming on, its one of three things. 1-the thermostat is stuck shut. 2-If it is taking less then 5 minutes of running to get high-bars, then it may be a bad sending unit. Usually 15+ minutes to heat one up. 3- there is a problem with the pump. Either the shaft is no longer being driven or the impeller has an issue. The seal is still fine though as it isn't leaking.

 

[Cosmosdan]

My experience has been when it gets hot but the hoses are only warm there is air in system. I try to find a vent screw near the thermostat or on the head somewhere. Check the manual. If for some reason there isn't one, I jack up the front, remove the radiator cap and run it while "burping" the hoses.

[VT Sniper]

If I run the machine without the radiator cap on the level rises and starts to push out the top after a minute or two. Feels cool.... should the fluid rise? That implies pump is working right? I am leaning towards the low coolant option, how can I tell if it is full? Appears full when cap removed, but, ressy is always empty

[NMKawierider]

If I run the machine without the radiator cap on the level rises and starts to push out the top after a minute or two. Feels cool.... should the fluid rise? That implies pump is working right? I am leaning towards the low coolant option, how can I tell if it is full? Appears full when cap removed, but, ressy is always empty

Well, that is a sign of a blown head gasket. If true, then yes, you do have a major air pocket around the cylinder and head. I assume you fill the recovery tank and it depletes over time with no sign of anything leaking any where. How is the oil looking? Milky at all? How about the plug? Darkish and wet..ish looking? Muffler tip..any dark buildup around the edges?


The coolant level will only raise enough to overflow if there is air in the system heating up and expanding or air is being injected into the system...or both. If you are lucky, like Cosmodan says, you just have an air bubble trapped in it....but IMO..it sounds like she's been overheated and lost a head gasket.

[VT Sniper]

Oh no....not good, that job is above my capabilities, probably means a warped head right?   Anyone have any idea what this will cost me to get fixed?

[NMKawierider]

Oh no....not good, that job is above my capabilities, probably means a warped head right?   Anyone have any idea what this will cost me to get fixed?

lol..relax..need to know for sure. Do the tests. It's just a 600. Just the top end would be pretty easy...I'll bet with a few tools and the manual you could do it.

[VT Sniper]

Ok exhaust  tips not overly black around the end, oil not milky, did not pull plug yet. Does not smoke any, motor runs really well, nice quiet and smooth.  I really hope it isn’t anything too major.  I appreciate the help guys, hoping that there is just air in the system, I did change the thermoswitch today, so it may have been faulty for awhile. Again thanks for the info

[REDRIDER]

Sounds like air, or the temp sensor is no good. you say the warning goes off and the engine is only warm. I have a laser temp gauge I use for this sort of thing. you can just point and shoot at the engine jugs heads ect to make sure they are not too hot and keep running it to see if the thermostat opens and the radiator gets hot.

[VT Sniper]

Thanks I hope it is just the sensors! The temp gauge runs to hot quickly, the temp is not even warm. Going to bring it to the dealer and see if I can get it sorted out. Going to fix it either way!  Thanks for the replies will take any advice I can get

[VT Sniper]

The dealer figured it out, it appears there was a blockage in one of the hoses, the tech did not tell me what the blockage was, and I was too happy to think to ask. I appreciate the help and responses and hope that I can some day help some of the other members with issues they maybe having.
Now to put some time behind the wheel.

[ctdls]

You helped just by posting your solution  You need to report back the final outcome.

[gfmoto]

I was obviously late to the convo, but I do remember someone talking about the older antifreeze "gelling up" I was going to mention that and do a complete flush with good fluids. Glad you got it fixed!!! Thanks for the update.

[glenlivet]

I'd be very interested to hear that mechanic say just what the 'blockage' was that he removed, that could stop the flow of coolant in the main rad hose. It's not like a mouse jumped in there when the rad cap was off and your back was turned. 
I'd want to ask him what it was and where. How did it get in there, and therefor is there a chance it could happen again?
Just inquiring minds. What on earth could have invaded the coolant passages of a motor, that's capable of withstanding pressure?

[NMKawierider]

Maybe it jelled and built-up...makes me glad I changed my coolant out.