[Davydo]

Yeah...that would be 12 inch lbs I suspect. If I was still working for Honda, we would be replacing the case. Going to have 60+ lbs of oil pressure against it so the tendency to leak or seep is going to be quit high. If there was any grip left to the threads I might be tempted to try flushing with carb spray or brake parts cleaner to get all the oil off all surfaces and try a high-heat apoxy. You could even leave a little coating of oil on the switch's threads and unscrew it when its 100% set, then one wrap or so of Teflon tape and re-install it..not too tight.

12 N m is what the manual says NMK, I looked at a thread repair kit from loctite and watched the video on it and I was kind of convinced. So there is grip left on the threads but not enough the torque to12 n m. Sounds like a good idea on the epoxy, if I spray cleaner in the hole that won't cause any issues with what cleaner trickles into the engine case will it t?

[NMKawierider]

Yeah...that would be 12 inch lbs I suspect. If I was still working for Honda, we would be replacing the case. Going to have 60+ lbs of oil pressure against it so the tendency to leak or seep is going to be quit high. If there was any grip left to the threads I might be tempted to try flushing with carb spray or brake parts cleaner to get all the oil off all surfaces and try a high-heat apoxy. You could even leave a little coating of oil on the switch's threads and unscrew it when its 100% set, then one wrap or so of Teflon tape and re-install it..not too tight.

12 N m is what the manual says NMK, I looked at a thread repair kit from loctite and watched the video on it and I was kind of convinced. So there is grip left on the threads but not enough the torque to12 n m. Sounds like a good idea on the epoxy, if I spray cleaner in the hole that won't cause any issues with what cleaner trickles into the engine case will it t?

Yeah...12 N.m (Newton Meters) is either 106.21 inlbs or 8.85ftlbs. Still seems pretty high. I don't think there would be enough solvent for long enough to cause any damage anywhere.

[Davydo]

Yeah...that would be 12 inch lbs I suspect. If I was still working for Honda, we would be replacing the case. Going to have 60+ lbs of oil pressure against it so the tendency to leak or seep is going to be quit high. If there was any grip left to the threads I might be tempted to try flushing with carb spray or brake parts cleaner to get all the oil off all surfaces and try a high-heat apoxy. You could even leave a little coating of oil on the switch's threads and unscrew it when its 100% set, then one wrap or so of Teflon tape and re-install it..not too tight.

12 N m is what the manual says NMK, I looked at a thread repair kit from loctite and watched the video on it and I was kind of convinced. So there is grip left on the threads but not enough the torque to12 n m. Sounds like a good idea on the epoxy, if I spray cleaner in the hole that won't cause any issues with what cleaner trickles into the engine case will it t?

Yeah...12 N.m (Newton Meters) is either 106.21 inlbs or 8.85ftlbs. Still seems pretty high. I don't where there would be enough solvent for long enough to cause any damage anywhere.

Thanks for the info NMK!

[Davydo]

SUCCESS! I decided to go a head with the helicoil repair on my stripped threads. I packed the hole with grease, installed the old sensor to help pack it down further. Drilled out, then cleaned some of the chips with both a cotton swab and a toothpick. I noticed the bottom as well as the side galley near the hole was completely sealed of with grease still and proceeded to tap the hole using pb blaster as a lube. I removed the tap once to clean out more chips sprayed my pb  blaster on tap and continued. I rigged up my small shop vac using a small section of 1/2" hose and a plastic drinking straw, yes a drinking straw, using electrical tape to tie the pieces together. The diameter of the straw was small enough to insert into the hole and vacuum out the remaining grease and aluminum cuttings, sprayed crc in hole and around thread to clean up.  Installed the helicoil using thread locker. Thread locked the new sensor per the manual and install. I have no idea what I torqued it to, but it was pretty snug. Ran the engine over 20 minutes and no leaks! Can i get an Amen bother on that SUCCESS story?! Now on to the continuing story of the coolant temperature sensor saga we go...

[NMKawierider]

SUCCESS! I decided to go a head with the helicoil repair on my stripped threads. I packed the hole with grease, installed the old sensor to help pack it down further. Drilled out, then cleaned some of the chips with both a cotton swab and a toothpick. I noticed the bottom as well as the side galley near the hole was completely sealed of with grease still and proceeded to tap the hole using pb blaster as a lube. I removed the tap once to clean out more chips sprayed my pb  blaster on tap and continued. I rigged up my small shop vac using a small section of 1/2" hose and a plastic drinking straw, yes a drinking straw, using electrical tape to tie the pieces together. The diameter of the straw was small enough to insert into the hole and vacuum out the remaining grease and aluminum cuttings, sprayed crc in hole and around thread to clean up.  Installed the helicoil using thread locker. Thread locked the new sensor per the manual and install. I have no idea what I torqued it to, but it was pretty snug. Ran the engine over 20 minutes and no leaks! Can i get an Amen bother on that SUCCESS story?! Now on to the continuing story of the coolant temperature sensor saga we go...

Amen Bother!! I'm impressed! I really thought it was ..."new-case-time". Congrats!

[Ponytail]

Hell... we’ve all done that. Just kidding. That’s pretty damn impressive. Congrats on that one. I thought you were in deep poopoo with that. 👍👍🍻

[Davydo]

SUCCESS! I decided to go a head with the helicoil repair on my stripped threads. I packed the hole with grease, installed the old sensor to help pack it down further. Drilled out, then cleaned some of the chips with both a cotton swab and a toothpick. I noticed the bottom as well as the side galley near the hole was completely sealed of with grease still and proceeded to tap the hole using pb blaster as a lube. I removed the tap once to clean out more chips sprayed my pb  blaster on tap and continued. I rigged up my small shop vac using a small section of 1/2" hose and a plastic drinking straw, yes a drinking straw, using electrical tape to tie the pieces together. The diameter of the straw was small enough to insert into the hole and vacuum out the remaining grease and aluminum cuttings, sprayed crc in hole and around thread to clean up.  Installed the helicoil using thread locker. Thread locked the new sensor per the manual and install. I have no idea what I torqued it to, but it was pretty snug. Ran the engine over 20 minutes and no leaks! Can i get an Amen bother on that SUCCESS story?! Now on to the continuing story of the coolant temperature sensor saga we go...

Amen Bother!! I'm impressed! I really thought it was ..."new-case-time". Congrats!

This thing probably wouldn't be worth the cost of a case replacement, I hope the repair holds up, thanks!

[Davydo]

Hell... we’ve all done that. Just kidding. That’s pretty damn impressive. Congrats on that one. I thought you were in deep poopoo with that. 👍👍🍻

I thought I was wading in the poo, thanks!