[Davydo]

Was checking my z500 after our ride Saturday and noticed a sizable oil leak in front of the engine. Found the oil pressure switch had started leaking around the prong connector on top of the switch. I thought to myself, what next? From fan sending units, coolant leaks, temperature gauge sending unit (which I replaced and the gauge works more frequently but still stayed on one bar periodically during this ride), seat belts cutting into the seats, a  pitifully designed  air intake setup, shifter trim piece, a cut tire (not CFMOTO fault), rear a arm inside bushings not taking grease and causing premature wear on the pins, etc, etc, etc. Had it since February this year and have put 550 miles on it and this guy is nickel and diming me to death! So I removed the switch, cleaned off oil, and coated the area around the prong with hot melt glue to hopefully reseal and test it before I replaced.

[NMKawierider]

Was checking my z500 after our ride Saturday and noticed a sizable oil leak in front of the engine. Found the oil pressure switch had started leaking around the prong connector on top of the switch. I thought to myself, what next? From fan sending units, coolant leaks, temperature gauge sending unit (which I replaced and the gauge works more frequently but still stayed on one bar periodically during this ride), seat belts cutting into the seats, a  pitifully designed  air intake setup, shifter trim piece, a cut tire (not CFMOTO fault), rear a arm inside bushings not taking grease and causing premature wear on the pins, etc, etc, etc. Had it since February this year and have put 550 miles on it and this guy is nickel and diming me to death! So I removed the switch, cleaned off oil, and coated the area around the prong with hot melt glue to hopefully reseal and test it before I replaced.

There can be 60+ lbs of oil pressure so I dough the glue will hold. Yeah it can add up...I stopped thinking about it and just hope the big expensive things stay OK for a while. Oh and the plus is, although many of CFM's parts are ..well.."bottom drawer", they are copies of top drawer parts from other manufacturers so up grading is relatively easy.

[Davydo]

Was checking my z500 after our ride Saturday and noticed a sizable oil leak in front of the engine. Found the oil pressure switch had started leaking around the prong connector on top of the switch. I thought to myself, what next? From fan sending units, coolant leaks, temperature gauge sending unit (which I replaced and the gauge works more frequently but still stayed on one bar periodically during this ride), seat belts cutting into the seats, a  pitifully designed  air intake setup, shifter trim piece, a cut tire (not CFMOTO fault), rear a arm inside bushings not taking grease and causing premature wear on the pins, etc, etc, etc. Had it since February this year and have put 550 miles on it and this guy is nickel and diming me to death! So I removed the switch, cleaned off oil, and coated the area around the prong with hot melt glue to hopefully reseal and test it before I replaced.

There can be 60+ lbs of oil pressure so I dough the glue will hold. Yeah it can add up...I stopped thinking about it and just hope the big expensive things stay OK for a while. Oh and the plus is, although many of CFM's parts are ..well.."bottom drawer", they are copies of top drawer parts from other manufacturers so up grading is relatively easy.

That's true NMK. This is my first SxS and I will doctor it for as long as I can, hopefully another 3 to 4 seasons, then gonna upgrade to a 4 or 5 seater like a Pioneer especially if the future zforce line up look like the 950. May grow on me if CFMOTO will correct the design and quality mistakes. These China tariffs may price them out of the market anyway...

[Skogsvarelse]

I have had 2 oil switches start leaking and then alarming low oil preasure do to the leaking. The one I have now was slightly differnt color on, and it has held up for longer then the other 2 combined. So i think they have improved the switches.

I have a 520/500s I belive i have the same engine as the z500

[Davydo]

So I replaced my oil pressure switch and I messed up big time...I over torqued the switch and messed the threads up in the engine case. Any advise or direction will be appreciated.

[doug80638]

Ouch! That sucks.

I believe the threads are NTP so you may get lucky just tapping the hole a little deeper. You'll need to figure out how deep you can go without interfering with the flow of oil in the channel. Chances are you can add a 1/4" without much impact, but measure the depth first (toothpick!) and plan accordingly.

You can use grease to keep the filings out of the oil channel. Put a dab deep into the hole, and then cover the tap with grease as well. The filings should stick to the grease and come out with the tap. Grease the tap, cut a turn or two, remove, clean off grease and filings. Wash, rinse, repeat until you get to the desired depth. Any filings that did not stick to the tap will be sitting on the dab you put into the hole. Don't forget to clean that out too!

The real problem is access. You may have to move a bunch of stuff out of the way so you can get the tap in straight and true depending on the vehicle.

Use a little Teflon tape when installing the new sender just to be safe.

You could also tap it out to accept a larger adapter/reducer if there isn't enough meat in the existing hole.

Good luck!

[Davydo]

Ouch! That sucks.

I believe the threads are NTP so you may get lucky just tapping the hole a little deeper. You'll need to figure out how deep you can go without interfering with the flow of oil in the channel. Chances are you can add a 1/4" without much impact, but measure the depth first (toothpick!) and plan accordingly.

You can use grease to keep the filings out of the oil channel. Put a dab deep into the hole, and then cover the tap with grease as well. The filings should stick to the grease and come out with the tap. Grease the tap, cut a turn or two, remove, clean off grease and filings. Wash, rinse, repeat until you get to the desired depth. Any filings that did not stick to the tap will be sitting on the dab you put into the hole. Don't forget to clean that out too!

The real problem is access. You may have to move a bunch of stuff out of the way so you can get the tap in straight and true depending on the vehicle.

Use a little Teflon tape when installing the new sender just to be safe.

Good luck!

Excellent advice Doug, I have a z500 so access looks to be reasonably clear after I remove the plastics. thanks!

[Davydo]

Ouch! That sucks.

I believe the threads are NTP so you may get lucky just tapping the hole a little deeper. You'll need to figure out how deep you can go without interfering with the flow of oil in the channel. Chances are you can add a 1/4" without much impact, but measure the depth first (toothpick!) and plan accordingly.

You can use grease to keep the filings out of the oil channel. Put a dab deep into the hole, and then cover the tap with grease as well. The filings should stick to the grease and come out with the tap. Grease the tap, cut a turn or two, remove, clean off grease and filings. Wash, rinse, repeat until you get to the desired depth. Any filings that did not stick to the tap will be sitting on the dab you put into the hole. Don't forget to clean that out too!

The real problem is access. You may have to move a bunch of stuff out of the way so you can get the tap in straight and true depending on the vehicle.

Use a little Teflon tape when installing the new sender just to be safe.

You could also tap it out to accept a larger adapter/reducer if there isn't enough meat in the existing hole.

Good luck!

The switch bottoms out and the treads are not npt so I won't be able to tap things deeper, I was looking at epoxy thread repair kits or maybe I could drill out tap and put a helicoil insert?

[NMKawierider]

I was going to say I think everything is metric on these...and may have to drill and tap it one larger if possible.  Helicoils don't always seal enough against oil pressure..but sometimes they will.

[Davydo]

I was going to say I think everything is metric on these...and may have to drill and tap it one larger if possible.  Helicoils don't always seal enough against oil pressure..but sometimes they will.

Hopefully the crush washer on the switch will seal things up, my main concern with drilling is metal flakes getting into the engine even if I fill the passage up with grease to catch them. Then I'll have to deal with removing the grease after the repair is completed. Any ideas?

[NMKawierider]

I was studying the oil passages and it looks like the switch is located on the high pressure distribution galley just before it get ported to the track to the front top end. So..the only place it can go it up to that cam and stuff. Not great...but better then to a rod bearing.Still..they would damage it. I guess use the grease trick and think of a way to vacuum it out after.

[Davydo]

I was studying the oil passages and it looks like the switch is located on the high pressure distribution galley just before it get ported to the track to the front top end. So..the only place it can go it up to that cam and stuff. Not great...but better then to a rod bearing.Still..they would damage it. I guess use the grease trick and think of a way to vacuum it out after.

Thanks NMK, it's a bummer this happened, I'm definitely gonna go to the torque specs from now on as this switch  showed 12 lbs torque it hard to tell what I put on it with a 1/2" ratchet, extensions, and the deep well socket. I ordered the helicoil kit off Amazon, threads are 10mm x 1 pitch, I have to cut that insert tab off somewhat since it will be inline with the hole in the switch. Also I 'll have to loctite the insert since it will improach into the distribution galley you spoke about.

[doug80638]

Oy. I didn't think about the metric implementation of this. Mea Culpa.

If the threads are not tapered, then a different method is warranted.

I would not advise using a helicoil in this instance for a host of reasons.

They make solid inserts just for this purpose. They are a similar installation to helicoils, but much better. You still have to drill and tap a larger hole, but the seal of the insert is much better than for helicoils.

Here is an example of what I'm taking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZlSOPh2siw&t=323s

[NMKawierider]

Yeah...that would be 12 inch lbs I suspect. If I was still working for Honda, we would be replacing the case. Going to have 60+ lbs of oil pressure against it so the tendency to leak or seep is going to be quit high. If there was any grip left to the threads I might be tempted to try flushing with carb spray or brake parts cleaner to get all the oil off all surfaces and try a high-heat apoxy. You could even leave a little coating of oil on the switch's threads and unscrew it when its 100% set, then one wrap or so of Teflon tape and re-install it..not too tight.

[Davydo]

Oy. I didn't think about the metric implementation of this. Mea Culpa.

If the threads are not tapered, then a different method is warranted.

I would not advise using a helicoil in this instance for a host of reasons.

They make solid inserts just for this purpose. They are a similar installation to helicoils, but much better. You still have to drill and tap a larger hole, but the seal of the insert is much better than for helicoils.

Here is an example of what I'm taking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZlSOPh2siw&t=323s

Makes since Doug, I canceled my order for the helicoil repair, wonder what size drill bit I'd need for the 10mm x 1 insert?