Currently my 400 is stuck in the woods with no power going to the ignition switch.
Background: I was having to turn the key on and off several times before I could get the dash panel to light up and the fuel pump to prime. Figured it was corrosion in the switch. It finally stopped working all together. I was getting power to the switch but not through it. Replaced with an on/off toggle switch and it worked perfectly.
Yesterday it slipped off the trail and wouldn't pull itself out. I tried to activate the four wheel drive and it died just like I had hit the kill switch. Now there is no power going to the switch. The fuses in the fuse box seem to be fine. Solenoid works, battery is charged, but no display on dash and fuel pump doesn't prime. Is there's main fuse? What else could it be?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Check the main fuse and the holder.

Where is the main fuse

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

No clue but they are on a smaller red wire just off..or closer to the battery. Usually a 30 amp.

ive asked about this  before , but today dealership rang me , ive got 2022 UTV 800 , im finding the slow take up  in the clutch  is crappy  , he has ADVISED ME TO FIND OUT, WHAT CLUCH KIT I NEED  TO GET RIG OF THE LAG , he will fit it for me, but that voids my warranty , anyway can someone send me a link to find the clutch kit i need to buy to fix this many thanks Emma

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

ive asked about this  before , but today dealership rang me , ive got 2022 UTV 800 , im finding the slow take up  in the clutch  is crappy  , he has ADVISED ME TO FIND OUT, WHAT CLUCH KIT I NEED  TO GET RIG OF THE LAG , he will fit it for me, but that voids my warranty , anyway can someone send me a link to find the clutch kit i need to buy to fix this many thanks Emma

Please define "Slow Take Up". If you mean taking off from a dead stop, the U & Z Force 800s still use the wet clutch system which shoes held in with springs under enough RPMs generate enough centrifugal force that overcomes the spring's resistance and allows the shoes to make contact with the bell or drum, sending rotational power to the primary clutch. There is no "kit" for that..however if the shoes have been allowed to slip much, they can be warn or burned causing the engine to have to be reved to a high level to make solid contact. This happens a lot when people use High range when they should have been in Low. If you are talking about how the clutches shift out after getting moving, then it just a matter of tuning it with a secondary clocking and some Dr Pulley sliders. If you are still using the stock tires may I suggest C1 or if you do lots of mud or climbing, B2 on the secondary clocking and 24 gram sliders.

This is a pic of the wet clutch shoes and springs. If there is much more then 600 RPMs between idle and engagement it's likely there is a problem here.