[MarkG]

I have a 2020 400cc that stalled out while idling. I turned the key to start it but there is no power. I checked the battery and it is good. The main relay and starter relay are good. All of the fuses look good. Would this issue be caused by the solenoid relay under the seat? Other than that it would have to be the ECU I think. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[MarkG]

I forgot to mention that all the connections at the battery and the solenoid relay have been checked. I can arc power over two terminals at the solenoid relay to the starter. This does not bring power to the dashboard. When I turn the key there is nothing. My winch which is hooked up directly to the battery still functions.

[NMKawierider]

Check the main fuse holder...not just the fuse. There has been some with internal connection failures.

[MarkG]

Today I turned the key and had power. I ran it for about 5 minutes and the put it in park and stepped off. Machine stalled and has no power again. Same scenario as yesterday.

I pulled the main fuse and it looks good. It appears to be secured in the adapter snug.

[NMKawierider]

Today I turned the key and had power. I ran it for about 5 minutes and the put it in park and stepped off. Machine stalled and has no power again. Same scenario as yesterday.

I pulled the main fuse and it looks good. It appears to be secured in the adapter snug.

Must test for power on the out-going wire.

[MarkG]

How would I test the power coming off the main fuse wires. If it is bad is there a replacement part available. It only stalls when the ATV warms up. Then it will restart when it cools down. It has to be either the main fuse or the solenoid relay next to it. Right?

[NMKawierider]

How would I test the power coming off the main fuse wires. If it is bad is there a replacement part available. It only stalls when the ATV warms up. Then it will restart when it cools down. It has to be either the main fuse or the solenoid relay next to it. Right?

Just pin-probe the wires on either side of the fuse, then seal the probe holes with liquid tape. You will have to do this when it breaks connection...ie warmed-up. If there is a problem it's just cut out and a new one is spliced in. A but tricky to do as it only does it after it's been under load a while and re-connects when it cools down. Maybe working or wiggling it will produce the same condition. Try doing that while running and just sitting there. 

[doug80638]

These are the classic symptoms of a high resistance or bad connection. Connection gets hot and eventually releases.

Many times, this is the result of a bad ground, but we've also seen a fair number of melted connectors.

No fun to find if you don't have reasonable electrical skiils.

Good hunting!

[MarkG]

I tried while it was idling to wiggle the adapter that the main fuse is plugged into. I was not able to get it to stall. I found the solenoid relay online for $25. I have not been able to find the main fuse adapter anywhere. Do you know where I can purchase it. I called the dealer and they also said there have been numerous issues with the main fuse connection.

[MarkG]

Can I just use a regular fuse adapter. Cut the wires and use butt connectors to attach the new adapter

[NMKawierider]

Although it is a 20 amp fuse you will want one with large enough holder and leads to handle at least 30 or 40..but put a 20 amp in it. Solder it in, no butt connectors and use heat shrink tubing. I have used these MAX fuse base and fuses. They are quite large and can handle up to 50 amps in some cases. Just use a 20 amp fuse. Here's some pics:

[NMKawierider]

But we don't know for sure this is your problem. We need to be sure before just cutting and splicing the harness like that.

[MarkG]

I really appreciate all of your help. So you want me to take a multimeter and test the outgoing wire correct? What setting should I have it on and what readings am I looking for. Once again thank you for taking so much time on this.

[doug80638]

Do I understand correctly that when the power goes out, there is no power to the Dashboard? If so, that is what you should focus on. The dash should power up regardless of the relays and solenoids, or ECU. Ignore the starter circuit for now.

Set the multi-meter to 12 volts.

I would start at the ignition switch, and make sure it is receiving power, and is passing power through when the switch is on. If so, follow that circuit to the main fuse block. If everything is energized, then a bad ground is likely.

Otherwise, if there is power to the switch but not beyond, replace the switch.

The switch should get its power directly from the battery, so if there is no power to the switch, then the connection at the battery is poor, or the feed wire is broken.

[MarkG]

Looks like the ignition switch went bad. Poor quality for an ATV with 70 miles on it. I hope this is not going to be a machine that constantly breaks down.
Thank you for you assistance. I really appreciate all of the help gentlemen.