[solomon]

Good Morning
I bought a 14" wide light bar to mount on the brackets that are on the Rival front bumper and would like to know if it could be wired to turn on when I select high beams at the light switch?

I looked through the forum to see if this has been asked before and did not see anything so.... 🤔  can it?

Thanks
Hope everyone had a great weekend
sol...

[BibKid]

Hello, Yes you can. Just connect the positive wire that triggers the relay to the high beam wire off the rear of the switch in the dash. Be sure to use a relay with fuse protection. Most aftermarket lights come with a pre-made harness these days so you may already have it.

Bob

[NMKawierider]

You can one of two ways. If the actual amp load is 2 or less amps, you can just power it from the high beam light supply wire. If it exceeds 2 amps, then you will use that same wire to trigger a relay which had line power from the battery and it's load to that light bar. I have a wiring diagram for that if needed.

Without a DC Amprobe it will be a bit hard to know the exact load it will have as LED wattage output doesn't directly convert to amp load but you can get pretty close if you take the wattage and use any of the converters online to amps, then cut the result in half.

[solomon]

So according to the drawing, the left and right high beam lights have a " L " which is blue by the ledgend. They are tied together and one lead goes to the drl controller, Another lead goes to the high beam indicator. Then the last stop is at the switch on the handle bar. Is it safe to figure providing I puck the correct " L / blue " wire I tap out of that for the feed for the light bar? That is of course it has the proper amps 2 or less... if more I have to figure a relay?
I like working on stuff and figuring it out it's just I have limited knowledge in electrical stuff.
Thanks
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d8dyiaim8xmmsui/20230515_103527.jpg?dl=0

[solomon]

.

[NMKawierider]

Considering it also powers some controller it might be better to just put it on a relay. I am assuming it didn't come with a harness and relay. So, use the blue wire as a positive coil trigger for the relay and power it through a fused supply from the battery. Just for GP what is the wattage of the unit?  This is the positive trigger wiring for any standard 20 amp relay:

[solomon]

Ok so the bar showed up with a harness. See link below.
It has a 4 pin relay, fused power lead, a lead to the light and a illuminated switch. The switch has 3 wires, Yellow, red and black. I am figuring the yellow feeds the lamp in the switch. Black and red, ground and positive. Can I seal off the yellow and some how jump from my high beam switch wire which is " L " in the drawing(previous post) to trigger the relay?

Thanks for playing 😁
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nyej1aplzl64n9l/20230516_112735.jpg?dl=0

[NMKawierider]

The two battery connections provide power and ground for the light and the relay coil. The switch should only provide power to the coil power side of the relay closing the contactor when supplied. All you need do is "T" in power from the high beam Blue (L) wire between the switch and relay to be triggered by that high bean source. Leaving the OE switch in gives you a way to just run the bar by itself if necessary.

[solomon]

So just mount it all up, then jump from blue "L " wire coming off handlebar switch to in between relay and illuminated switch ----> blue to red?

I don't always wire stuff but when I do I make sure I stay at a motel6 whenever possible. <------- Levity

Thanks

[NMKawierider]

So just mount it all up, then jump from blue "L " wire coming off handlebar switch to in between relay and illuminated switch ----> blue to red?

I don't always wire stuff but when I do I make sure I stay at a motel6 whenever possible. <------- Levity

Thanks

Before I answer that I need to see that it's wired like I think it is. If there is any sort of wiring diagram that came with it, post it. Otherwise post some pics if the relay connections and the switch. And you need to confirm that the Blue wire does in fact have a full 12 volts on it only when the high beams are on. Something tells me that  it may only be a trigger for the HB relay...which is fine if it is 12 volts and can handle 4-6 mA extra.

[solomon]

Very good I have been using Dropbox for my pictures I will use another service so the pictures will post. I have to go back to work for two weeks driving a tugboat... when I get home I will continue with operation.

Thank you so much for all your help I greatly appreciate it.

Chris

[solomon]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255830326050?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20220705100511%26meid%3D7f82f9fb7d4942b6aa71c15ffe649f51%26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D255830326050%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3A2339bdad-f449-11ed-8788-9ad2856ac1cf%7Cparentrq%3A2717bf921880a9d99197f0fffff609fc%7Ciid%3A1

This is the light bar that I purchased.
The wire harness that it came with has two leads to the battery, one lead to the light itself and a lead to the switch. as of now it is all connected and works great. I could leave it like this or continue to connect it so that it will come on with the HB switch on the handle bars. this is a picture of the harness.


This is a picture of the install,




this is the electrical drawing from the service manual


I heat shrunk the extra wire and placed the "tube" directly in front of the relay box. I mounted the relay to the bolt that holds the front rack and bumper bracket down. The switch is mounted in the center filler block on the handle bars.

Chris

[NMKawierider]

Cool. Sounds like you got it.