My machine 2021 Cforce 600 Tour, USA model.

I just changed oil and filter in it after 10 hours of snow plow work.  Manual says do it at 20 hours, regular use OR 1/2 @10 hours "Severe Use".  I have 26 miles on machine now. 

Shifting from R to H or back and forth annoying, sticks, doesn't want to go, blah blah blah.  Known issue. Foot on brake pedal doesn't help that much.  I may just have to take the bazillion bolts out of plastics and adjust the shift lever length.  Not really enthusiastic about doing that.  Any other suggestions welcome.

I want to get a few spares for trips out in boonies.   I have oil, filters, air-pump & tire plug kit, a few other do dahs.  Sparkplug.

CFM says NGK DCPR8E.   OK, comes in a standard "copper version".  It also comes in NGK DCPR8EIX Iridium version, spoze to be much better and of course, more $$$.

Are there any other "simple" things to take along in camp trailer for fixing something common?  Rides as normal, not flogging the machine, no deep mud-swamps-rivers, semi-relaxed, 2-up or 1-up+large dead critter, and so on.

Any recommendations, actual use, whatever that folks have found out in CFMoto-land?  Interested & curious.

YMMV

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Personally I wouldn't worry about plugs cause they are good for many thousands of miles now or oil changes on trips. Tires first, then a few rolls of self vulcanizing tape or some super-duct tape for split boot issues, maybe an extra belt and the tools to change it. Maybe some odds and ends like small tools, fuses..zip ties...ect. For me if something major happens it's just reason to park it and fix it back home. 

In my experience the iridium plugs are not worth the trouble unless you are racing at full throttle all the time. The standard copper plugs will last for years (my 2013 500 still has original plug) and will rarely break down on the trail.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Me too..my 2015 800 still has the original plugs. About 2000 miles they they are still just fine.

Thanks all for replies.

Score +1 for the CFMoto Reliability Question.

YMMV

In my experience NGK Iridium spark plugs will transform the engine, its tick-over speed, and will especially reduce back fires on throttle off. I do not race my X8 but do use the highest octane petrol available in UK. I only use High octane petrol because this is the only E5 rated petrol now available in UK.  The marriage of high octane petrol and NGK Iridium spark plugs works very well for me. The NGK Iridium spark plugs give a cleaner more powerful spark  ensuring that the combustion in the chamber is more complete and extracts max energy from the fuel, less waste fuel means more energy extracted and more power.  These engines have fairly High compression ratio hence why the above marriage works well.  However, I never leave petrol in the tank for any length of time as it deteriorates, I always use fresh petrol, if its been left in the tank for more than two months it goes in the lawn mower. Which also runs on high octane fuel and NGK Iridium plugs. 

The gear selection issue is common across most CFMOTO ATV's & UTV's, firstly check the length of the gear selection rod between the stick and the gearbox, i.e you can shorten it or lengthen it through adjustment. Next check the interlock cable that connects from the stick to the foot pedal, i.e. that it is not in the locked position when the brake pedal is pressed, the cable can be adjusted at the pedal. However remember that the interlock cable is only utilized from Neutral to Rev to Park, the cable interlock is not used for High or Low. Check the button interlock on the stick is adjusted correctly. Then remove the complete stick assembly and grease the gate the stick moves through will high melting point grease. Finally after you have adjusted everything as stated above an greased the gear shift gate with all the plastic covers removed shift gears and make sure that the shift linkage is not clunking/hitting the gear stick mount bracket.  The linkage tends to hit and clunk against the aluminium housing that supports the shift stick and is bolted to the engine. If it clunks against the housing mark it with a sharpie, remove the stick shift housing and file away the aluminium until it stops clunking/hitting it.

Finally if after doing all of the above and it still sticks in gear or is difficult to get out of gear especially in low gear please be reminded that all 4X4 and 2X4 off roaders will suffer from transmission wind up. To unwind the the transmission lift one of the driven wheels off the ground and observe it unwind. The heat generated during a drive will also contribute to transmission gear lock so let it cool down.

Enjoy your ride and take care "Grand Master Splash and his furious ride"